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bugger101
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2011 8:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

did you guys sand the top any before painting,is so what grit did you use?
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BusterBrown
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2011 8:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bugger101 wrote:
did you guys sand the top any before painting,is so what grit did you use?


120 should be fine. Wear a mask. A lot of nasty dust will become airborne. Wipe clean with a damp cloth before painting. I just did my cargo carrier, brushed on 2 coats of X-O Rust (Tru-Value) Super Gloss White, oil based. Looks great. I haven't used an oil based paint for some time. Easy application, and brush strokes flow out very smooth, as it dries SLOWLY. Hope it lasts for many years.
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VDubTech
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2011 2:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bugger101 wrote:
did you guys sand the top any before painting,is so what grit did you use?


I did no sanding whatsoever. The sum total of my prep work was a rinse and dry before I started rolling it on.
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1977_L63H_P27
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2011 4:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

VDubTech wrote:
bugger101 wrote:
did you guys sand the top any before painting,is so what grit did you use?


I did no sanding whatsoever. The sum total of my prep work was a rinse and dry before I started rolling it on.


We washed our top with a bleaching bathroom cleaner and used a brass grill brush to scrub it good. I'm not makin' that up, an actual grill brush Razz

No sanding needed after that Shocked . Then two coats of straight paint. I only wish I would've put on new hardware as I have rust tracks once again.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2011 9:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

320 grit the whole top
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dubdubz
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 2:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a poptop resto ongoing right now - the rear roof wood is rotten, the sides are ok but seem a little 'loose'

the rear replacement timber [lumber?] does it need to be any particular wood variety?
also what glue is to be used ? - I intend to fiberglass the sides to the roof aswell....but this thread mentions glueing also?
My 68 roof is a smooth one so is there any benefits from adding extra strengthing on the sides [ there is a couple of wedges fiberglassed ] I figured a couple more may help?

the westy canvas I have is a 2nd hand one and is a good condition gowesty one.

I was intending to install in reverse, ie do the bottom first then take the fabric to the top so I can get the tight/smooth finish. I'm struggling to see if you do it as you're supposed to..how you can attach the top then drop it down and secure under the metal fixing strips AND still ensure that with the plastic bead in the correct place that the fabric is not saggy.
Or to put it another way how do you either stop any fabric excess or allow for it? As if you make an error and fix the top and it's 'loose' there is no neat way to take up any slack on the bottom?

[I appreciate there is a search button, but felt the contributors to this thread new their 'onions' and it is on topic, plus I'm from the UK Laughing edit I will be continuing to search canvas replacement topics aswell]
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peaceful warrior
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 2:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dubdubz wrote:
the rear replacement timber [lumber?] does it need to be any particular wood variety?
also what glue is to be used ?
My 68 roof is a smooth one so is there any benefits from adding extra strengthing on the sides [ there is a couple of wedges fiberglassed ] I figured a couple more may help?

the westy canvas I have is a 2nd hand one and is a good condition gowesty one.

I was intending to install in reverse, ie do the bottom first then take the fabric to the top so I can get the tight/smooth finish. I'm struggling to see if you do it as you're supposed to..how you can attach the top then drop it down and secure under the metal fixing strips AND still ensure that with the plastic bead in the correct place that the fabric is not saggy.
Or to put it another way how do you either stop any fabric excess or allow for it? As if you make an error and fix the top and it's 'loose' there is no neat way to take up any slack on the bottom?

[I appreciate there is a search button, but felt the contributors to this thread new their 'onions' and it is on topic, plus I'm from the UK Laughing edit I will be continuing to search canvas replacement topics aswell]


If you look at the photos that I posted, the wood is a ply, so I would pickup up the proper thickness plywood in a sheet. Use the old as a guide to scribe and then cut and sand before fitting.
Don't know what is available in the UK, but I would use Liquid Nails though some may have other ideas! All of my woodwork ideas come from being a former contractor.
Follow the article I posted and it will be tight! Why reinvent the wheel? I have done5 canvas installs in the past 5 years (not on the same buses..LOL) and all of them were tight!
If you want a high res version of the install article send me an email and I will send it to you.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 3:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks PW, a email has been sent.

It looks like a lengthy job, but one I think I can manage...the tent install I'll reassess after looking at the article!

many thanks

I'll put a short before/during/after picture roll as it's relevant to this thread.

My 68 is a one year only smooth westy top so it is worth restoring....
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dubdubz
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2011 1:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thank you very much for the article - my query still lies with picture 17

where on the wood do you position the tent fabric piping [gowesty tents have these]

this rough sketch may help to decipher what I mean?!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


the original appears to be 1/2" from the bottom as seen here...


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


in real terms there is the ability to 'pull' more of the material up and over the tack strip, so perhaps the end of the fabric is below the wood [although you would see this from the outside]

OR is it as simple as the tack strip is tight against the top, so whatever the depth of the tack strip....the end material should be inline with that and as per the bottom the 'piping' be on the bottom side being caught by the tack strip....

apologies for the slight detour but I still think it's relevant?

ps notice the rot in the plywood Sad in the 2nd pic
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71whitewesty
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2011 6:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Copy just the way the original was done. Piping goes on the bottom for the aluminum tack strips to grab. Do the top first, then the bottom. The hand drawn picture looks right to me.
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peaceful warrior
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2011 8:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I believe that is correct, that you want the staple strip as close to the top as possible. This will be the highest point when the top is opened. I will look at my 68 and confirm that!

BTW, something I did on my 68, was to get a front hook set up from a 71. It helps with the front center of the poptop not lifting up while driving.
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bugger101
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 30, 2011 10:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well guys i just did my top and it looks GREAT. i just took a stiff brush to it and some spray bleach, then i sanded with 220. and brushed on some rustoleum

before
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


during

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after
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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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dubdubz
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PostPosted: Mon May 02, 2011 7:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

good work bugger101

ok it's been reasonably epic but we're there - here is some photos

I'll add captions

starting canvas
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


rotten rear former
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rear former being removed
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end of rear former showing cracks in fibreglass matting
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delaminated ply middle former
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all the padding chocks had their matting broke somewhere
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rear former completely out ready for clean up
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front canvas former fibreglassed in
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rear former fibreglass detail
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


woohoo new canvas on and up
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inside - we followed the advice on here and the tack strip is where it's supposed to be
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


and another
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PostPosted: Mon May 02, 2011 5:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I started in on my 77s pOp tOp. Pulled the front piece-little sanding-painted. I bought all the new goodies both function and decoration (rubber&stickers). Ill finish off the rear when I get time this week. Then shell be good for awile I hope Wink


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 2:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Rustoleum, a year and a half later.
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2011 6:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

notchboy wrote:
I started in on my 77s pOp tOp. Pulled the front piece-little sanding-painted. I bought all the new goodies both function and decoration (rubber&stickers).
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Nice Pop top, luggage rack and flat seal kit you got there.... Wink
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2011 7:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for taking the time to make these convenient.
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 9:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i have just finishe restoring my luggage rack on my 71. i removed it, pressure washed it, sanded it with 220grit, rinsed it then applied 2 coats of interlux brightside, wet sanded, final coat of interlux. it looks pretty good.
i purchased the interlux at west marine (chain store) i also purchased some stainless nuts and bolts from them as i have removed the metal cross bars from the luggage rack and have replaced them with wood. the wood was coated 4x with man-o-war polyurethane.
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 11:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Top related question, my small Rivi pop top has a dent in it up top. It's shallow but large. Is it possible to pull dents out of fiberglass, if you push it in, it will just pop back out.
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 11:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll jump in on this one Batan. I don't think there's anyway to pull a dent out of fiberglass.
Maybe you could build the area up with more fiberglass and resin but my guess would be either run it as is or look for another top.
I'm basing my humble opinion on lots of surfboard related repairs. Smile
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