The Ultimate Stewart Warner Gas Heater Thread

[thomas.]

It shouldn't matter as long as the pressures right. That rock auto one looks like a good deal though. I think it was $24 + ship .it's in tools section under fuel.


Here's some photos of the one I bought but the guy gave me a refund on because of wrong voltage. The 1st. photo shows the relay and pump hooked up to the battery. Nothing should happen and it doesn't.This one was missing its relay but I knew that when I bought it. The 2nd. one shows with the main power line hooked up to thermo. It's running there with no smoke. but cutting out when it shouldn't. I later found out it had 6 volt motors. with 12 volt coil. The dude that sold it to me was rightous about the whole thing

In the last photo shows I'm burning the rest of the fuel out of heater.

Also wanted to say I mounted my pump on the same bolt as the coil is mounted. If anyone decides to do it that way you might want to use a rubber washer because every time it pumps it makes a hammering noise without rubber washer for noise suppression.

[thomas.]

I'm on a cell phone or I would send a link.Most of the vw parts places should have them.If you go on EBay & search fuel line T that should get some. You cut your hose where you want and brass T pushes in the hose .Then you push your heater hose line in the third part of the T. I use the regular worm drive clamps to secure it but you'll see a lot of folks frown upon using those on a fuel line. Something about pinching the line. I'll send some photo links next time I'm on the computer.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/229960.jpg

Here's a couple more . Make sure you get the right size . probably 1/4 to 5/16

http://www.jegs.com/i/Dorman+Products/326/55109/10002/-1

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221375013913?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321324947692?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[crukab]

So I'm looking to pull my Gas Heater & have it rebuilt, it came w/ my '66 Singlecab, no clue if it worked back in '78 when the truck wa last on the road, before I got it.

So can a 6 volt be converted to 12 Volt, since my Truck is now 12 volt ??
Anyone here do rebuilds ??
_________________
Tom

My Pops:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=604100&highlight=
I know you will always be with me, rest in peace with no more pain. 8/13/14.....

In the yard right now:
'51 Dodge 5 window truck
'65 Bug
'66 Singlecab
'82 Rabbit Truck Diesel from CALI
'86 Doublecab W/T
'91 Vanagon carat/wolfsbrg.Tiico
'88 Dodge Ram pickup
'11 Jetta Wagon

[thomas.]

I know the 6volt heaters use a lot of amps.I think 11 amps. I only know this because I'm wondering too if it's possible to run a 6 volt heater if vehicle is 12 volt. I know on the eberspacher you can't but with the right 12 to 6 reducer maybe on this one.Maybe someone else might respond that has one or has done it. The 1st thing you would have to do, obviously is make sure your heater is working.You'd probably be better off looking for the correct heater for your bus.
These heaters are easy to work on.You could restore it yourself. The main part that goes bad is the fuel pump. Just by chance I've ordered and waiting for delivery a 12v to 6v reducer so I'll let you know in a few days. The only thing is I'm guessing it wouldn't work if you had an elec. fuel pump on there.

[Schroby]

[thomas.]

I just saw this or would of posted earlier.This is where I bought my 6 volt relays.

http://www.newark.com/te-connectivity-potter-brumf...dp/21M4888

[busboyjake]

[Manfreds78bay]

Hey everyone,

I'm trying to get my SW heater going and I cannot figure out what I'm doing wrong.

For some reason I can't get the point to spark. During bench testing, I did get the points to spark and the spark plug to work. But when I hooked up the gas, I got not spark and no jump spark at the points. I have not been able to get a spark since.

This is a brand new unit. It was never used as far as I can tell. The coil was missing. I'm using a standard coil (not sure if this is the issue). I have three units I've tried. All coils checked good. The points gap seems a little small when I measure for the .018. However they did work that one time. I am unable to remove the solder and cannot adjust them.

During my testing the thermostat seems to have broken. The switch does not seem to have spring tension any longer. I just wired the two thermostat wires together. I do plan in installing and RV thermostat when I can justify installing the unit. I just want to get this thing working before I do it.

So both blower work and turn on no problem. I tested the over heat switch. That works. The points seem to being getting enough volts to spark. The fuel is pumping find with the stock pump. I just can't seem to find an issue with any of the components. And the the fact that I did get a spark a one point seems to be the most frustrating part. The wiring seems to be in order.

What am I missing? Could it be spinning too fast to cause a no spark since I remove the thermostat?
_________________
1978 2.0L FI Campmobile

1982 AMC Eagle SX4 4.2L FI

[Manfreds78bay]

Hey everyone,

I found this. Good idea to replace the points with a modern upgrade.


Link

_________________
1978 2.0L FI Campmobile

1982 AMC Eagle SX4 4.2L FI

[Toyotafan78]

Is it typical to get a very minute amount of black in the exhaust smoke? (Like it's running just slightly rich...) all seems to operate well,no leaks,no popping,fires right up and puts out good heat, just stinks outside,puts out a tiny bit of black smoke...

[mattlockwood]

[thomas.]

I obviously had some free time and wanted to see for myself so I hooked it up with one reducer but I'm sure 2 could work too. I spliced 2 wires to the 6v positive outbound. One to battery terminal one to the switch terminal on the relay. Instead of trying to explain here's a photo of a Bus 6volt S.W gas heater relay hooked up to 12volt battery with the reducer. Also a link to where I bought the reducer. I can't remember but it probable took longer to get it since it is coming from Asia.
Anyway... 12 volts in 6 volts out.
EDIT... After looking how a bus is wired I would purchase two of the reducers and install a separate reducer for the switch install and a separate for the battery terminal. The other way might leave the heater on all the time unless you wired the switch right before the relay. Also note , these reducers are rated for 5 amps.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Power-Module-Conver...1438.l2649

[MR71TRANSAM]

This is one of the Best Informational posts I've ever read. Great info for the newbie.

Rick H

[onwardtothestars]

[iowa vw]

I got a 6v stewart warner and I converted my bug to 12 volt. The heater points and fuel pump are shot so i was thinking just convert it to 12v.

Run both motors in series from 12v source so they are fine.
Already have a 12v pump for the engine that can also fuel the heater.
Replace 6v coil with 12v and put on electronic ignition.

But the piece I'm having difficulty is the 6v coil for the fuel shut-off. Has anyone converted the coil to 12v? Since the points and pump are bad that is the main reason I think I should convert to 12. Thoughts?

[foamermetal]

Just installed a 12V Stewart Warner heater in my 67 bug. I had it working in the garage from a battery. It heats well. My question is from the dash mounted switch, should there be one terminal to ground and the other to 12V ignition power? I thought it had to have 12V constant hot from battery. Also where would I place a relay into the wiring? Should it even have a relay? I really would rather not have all those amps running through my ignition switch. Any diagram drawings would really help.

[iowa vw]

I finished my rebuild of a 6v and used a 20A converter from Aliexpress for really cheap. They are pretty reliable and work great for these heaters. As someone else stated its the fuel pumps that are a pain to find parts for, usually have to convert to an electric pump.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=747274&highlight=

[foamermetal]

Need some help diagnosing my Stewart Warner gas heater. I’ve had it in the car working flawlessly for almost three years. Turned it on this morning and for about a minute I didn’t hear it ignite and there was no heat blowing. Looked under the hood while it was running and the combustion chamber around where the plug goes was extremely hot as it was trying to start. I looked under the fender and there was flames around where the drain tube comes through. Shutting it down extinguished the flames. Any idea as to what would cause a fire at the drain. Every thing is securely clamped and not leaking.

[foamermetal]

Any one with Stewart Warner gas heaters have any ideas why I would have a fire from the combustion chamber drain.

[busdaddy]

Overfuelling, now you have to find out why: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/heater_ac.php
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