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surfarii
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 15, 2014 12:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for sharing K mann. Your stories echo the many I have heard.

Sounds like Thatthing and Kubelmann have both experienced the same cheap coupler. I have replaced a few myself for customers.


As a side note.
One of the greatest forces/stresses on a tow bar is exerted when the Tow Vehicle is braking hard. This is especially true with a heavy tow vehicle like a motorhome or a big truck that is capable of stopping fast in a panic type stop.
When the heavy tow vehicle stops fast and hard, the tow vehicle with no brakes applied, wants to keep moving forward.
Which brings me to my point. The VW tow bar clamps under the beam and dog legs up to achieve a somewhat standard ball height.
This bend is a weak link under load. I have seen a few bend at this spot due to the above mentioned scenario.
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NOVA Airhead
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 15, 2014 7:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kubelmann wrote:
As requested:

Scenario One: Tow 73 Thing with VW tow bar hooked to Ford Ranger (5.6K lb tow cap.) 4x4 XLT super cab with 5K lb receiver. Turn tight circle going forward on tipped ground front corner of Thing nose destroys Ranger tail light whilst thing nose corner gets crushed.

Scenario two: Towing 66 Euro sunroof Bug ( my wife’s first car that we turned into a fully restored rare stock show car ) with a 1961 21’ 2 ton ford truck with factory heavy tow package. Hit pot hole received on VW tow bar pops free car goes through highway fencing. Massive damage results. Never to run again.

Scenario Three: Towing 63 vert with 914 Porsche motor using a VW tow bar & 1976 F250. Car “bumps” into gear. By the time we see the mess, the motor is toast...

I have also towed many VWs using the VW tow bar with no story other than successful task completed.

But the few VW I have lost make me avoid the tow bar any time I can find another solution. I have AAA Plus towing for this exact reason..


Those are some nasty mishaps for one person. I have two tow bars - one for the Thing (it came with it) and one I use for my Ghia. For my Ghia I lengthened the tow bar by 18 inches as the Ghia headlights protrude forward enough to cause problems on tight turns with the standard Beetle tow bar. This is a common and recommended modification for anyone towing a Ghia with one of these devices. I never heard that happening with the Thing but perhaps I will start using the Ghia tow bar for The Thing as well.

A question - did you use safety chains? While the tow bars do not come with safety chains I have added them to both ends on each of the ones I have - the axle side as well as the hitch side in the event something pops free.
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oasis
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 15, 2014 8:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

More random thought ...

First, I appreciate all of the answers.

Second, the Eos forum confirms 750 kg (1,653 lbs) max for an unbraked trailer. It does say with a braked trailer, the Eos is then rated at 1,700 kg (3,747 lbs).

With a Thing at 2,006 lbs (curb weight), a braked trailer could weigh up to 1,741 lbs and be okay for the Eos. However, there doesn't seem to be any hitches for the Eos rated above 2,000 lbs. Hidden Hitch and Draw-Tite are the only two I have found with this rating.

Storing an unused trailer is a problem for me that could be addressed if I replace a section of fence and use the back yard area near the storage sheds. I'm not sure I would want to do that. At least, not yet.

I towed my wife's Golf with a dolly when it had a mishap a few years ago. I hated that experience, and that was only 60 or so miles. (We had the EuroVan at the time, not the Eos.)

If I did any towing, I would want the wiring and safety (back-up) chains to be proper. (Not sure of my terminology here.)

All in all, I'm getting less enthusiastic about using the Eos. It has been a great car and I don't think I want to put it through any stress at its margins. Renting a trailer would be an expense I would probably prefer to avoid compared to driving the Eos and Thing separately.

The real downsides for driving the Eos and Thing separately are (1) the inability to swap drivers mid-trip as each driver has their own vehicle, and (2) holding the Eos back to 55-60 MPH is as undesireable as flogging the Thing over 60 MPH for any length of time (although the former would get 35 MPG at such a mundane speed).

The irony is if we ever get a beefier vehicle for towing -- like a EuroVan, Touareg, or whatever -- we would then go to using a trailer and have to decide between Eos and Thing which stays home. Laughing

Now, how about a Thing pulling an Eos ... Wink
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citroen
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 15, 2014 6:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

get a vw bus I used to pull my race car and trailer without any problems, used the old panel to pull the trailer and it worked too
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GI Joe
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 15, 2014 7:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

citroen wrote:
get a vw bus I used to pull my race car and trailer without any problems, used the old panel to pull the trailer and it worked too
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That is so cool, in so many ways!! The Domecks live and breathe VW!!
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surfarii
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 15, 2014 10:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

oasis wrote:


Second, the Eos forum confirms 750 kg (1,653 lbs) max for an unbraked trailer. It does say with a braked trailer, the Eos is then rated at 1,700 kg (3,747 lbs).


This is an option for you , I have installed them but never on a ACVW
This should meet your breaking requirements as well as not adding the trailer weight .
No remodeling the yard or storing a trailed either =)
http://www.remcoindustries.com/Towing/product.php?f=brakingSystem.php

Quote:
With a Thing at 2,006 lbs (curb weight), a braked trailer could weigh up to 1,741 lbs and be okay for the Eos. However, there doesn't seem to be any hitches for the Eos rated above 2,000 lbs. Hidden Hitch and Draw-Tite are the only two I have found with this rating.


There are good custom shops that can install the proper class II receiver. Where are you located?
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oasis
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 16, 2014 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

citroen wrote:
get a vw bus

I scan the Type 2 classifieds as well as the cousins that came later. Until I get my 181 the way I want it, it would have to be ready-to-go, as-is. If I have two simultaneous projects, neither will get done. Embarassed

surfarii wrote:
This is an option for you , I have installed them but never on a ACVW ...

Interesting to say the least. Where does it get installed? Is it permanently installed? How does it get connected so it interacts with the Eos's braking system?

surfarii wrote:
There are good custom shops that can install the proper class II receiver. Where are you located?

Maryland.
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surfarii
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 12:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oasis;
Sorry I don't know of any good shops on the East coast.
The little research I did leads me to believe there was/is a dealer option receiver. look into what that entails if you want to pursue this.

A little info on the breaking system can be seen here

Link
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oasis
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 10:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool. I'll check it out when I'm away from work away from my work place -- this weekend. Thanks.
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sxuxrxf
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 26, 2014 8:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

surfarii, do you have any experience or thoughts on a system like this?
http://www.readybrake.com/brake-systems.html

btw...before moving to O'side, I lived near your shop on Wilson/Fairview. I stopped in one day for some advice on building my surfboard/bike rack for my motor home. (rack has been revised since pics)


For what it's worth, I'm one of the lucky ones who has towed VW's many thousands of miles without issue. (knock on wood)
I use the generic VW style tow bar, with a few modifications. I welded in a support bar to reduce the amount of twist, as well as adding some stops near the beam connections so the bar stays located properly and doesn't kill the zerks.
I also have safety chains from the bar to the receiver, as well as a separate chain from the beam to the receiver.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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kubelmann
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 5:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Surfarii, Towing terms can be confusing to the private non-technical Thing owner. So I thought we could "pimp out” your towing expertise to build a towing term glossary. I have discussed towing with a number of folks and most folks are very unclear when it comes to:
Volkswagen GVWR (Vehicle)
Volkswagen GAWR (Axle)
Volkswagen GCWR (Combined)
Volkswagen Cargo Carrying Capacity (CCC)
Volkswagen Curb Weight
Volkswagen Payload (stuff hauled inside the vehicle)
So perhaps towing could even become a sticky... Folks like sxuxfxf avoid towing tragedy because they create a safe towing package that is greatly improved by exceeding all safety limits. Guys like me have towed so many thing so many times that stuff has gone (right) and wrong and as such I trailer vehicles now except for short distances or an emergency
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surfarii
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 12:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sxuxrxf wrote:
surfarii, do you have any experience or thoughts on a system like this?
http://www.readybrake.com/brake-systems.html

I have not used that system. looks better then some that tap into the towed vehicle brake lines with solenoids Shocked

Quote:
btw...before moving to O'side, I lived near your shop on Wilson/Fairview. I stopped in one day for some advice on building my surfboard/bike rack for my motor home. (rack has been revised since pics)


Cool set up you have! looks like a its set up for Baja and SanO. Thanks for stopping in. My twin and I no longer own the shop. Its in great hands with a 30+ year friend and coworker Mike Johnson.


Quote:
For what it's worth, I'm one of the lucky ones who has towed VW's many thousands of miles without issue. (knock on wood)
I use the generic VW style tow bar, with a few modifications. I welded in a support bar to reduce the amount of twist, as well as adding some stops near the beam connections so the bar stays located properly and doesn't kill the zerks.
I also have safety chains from the bar to the receiver, as well as a separate chain from the beam to the receiver.


I am noticing a trend here. Most that have said they have towed their VW's on a stock beam mounted towbar without incident have modified something in the system along the way. BTW all good mods that I have done for others too.
I am not picking on any one or trying to ruffle feathers. I only want people to be aware of the problems that can and have occurred with this type of towbar.
There is no denying it is one of the most cost effective ways to tow our cars.
Glad it is working for you.
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surfarii
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 1:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kubelmann wrote:
Surfarii, Towing terms can be confusing to the private non-technical Thing owner.

Shoot the terms are confusing to the "pros" I think if people read the towing section of their owners manual for their newer cars they will find much of the nomenclature you provided below. We all want to look at the biggest number and think our tow vehicle can tow that. Often times there additional requirements to take advantage of a vehicles maximum towable weight.
A braking system as mentioned above is one such item.
Another misunderstood towing product is a Weight Distribution Hitch.
Most vehicle manufactures have a dual rating for towing.
In other words the maximum allowable weight you can tow with and without a weight distribution hitch. It does not apply in this tow bar thread but be aware there are many things to consider when towing.
If you cover your ass and stay within the vehicle manufactures requirements you will probable stay out of trouble.

Quote:
So I thought we could "pimp out” your towing expertise to build a towing term glossary. I have discussed towing with a number of folks and most folks are very unclear when it comes to:
Volkswagen GVWR (Vehicle)
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating is the maximum operating weight/mass of a vehicle as specified by the manufacturer

Volkswagen GAWR (Axle)
is the maximum distributed weight that may be supported by an axle of a road vehicle.
Volkswagen GCWR (Combined)
GCWR Gross Combined Weight Rating is the maximum allowable combined mass of a towing road vehicle, passengers and cargo set by vehicle manufacturer

Volkswagen Cargo Carrying Capacity (CCC)
Volkswagen Curb Weight
is the total weight of a vehicle with standard equipment, all necessary operating consumables
Volkswagen Payload (stuff hauled inside the vehicle)
So perhaps towing could even become a sticky... Folks like sxuxfxf avoid towing tragedy because they create a safe towing package that is greatly improved by exceeding all safety limits. Guys like me have towed so many thing so many times that stuff has gone (right) and wrong and as such I trailer vehicles now except for short distances or an emergency
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NOVA Airhead
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 8:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have also found the Annual Towing Guide published by Trailer Life to be useful - link below. Even for seasoned "towers" its a good refresher.

http://www.trailerlife.com/trailer-towing-guides/

When I had a Travel Trailer I would swear at least half the Trailers at any particular campground had an unsafe towing combination - typically vehicles that were overloaded. Often people focus on a single number such as the tow rating. I often see people towing huge 5th wheel trailers with F150 trucks.

I would never use a VW tow bar without modifying it. In standard form its not safe. At a minimum it needs proper safety chains installed. This is not only for safety but in most places is required by law.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 8:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Agreed. In the 60s-70s in Colorado Springs and for decades more we depended on European Auto Parts (now closed and mostly forgotten) for all our imported car needs. The place was run by a bunch of old school air cooled folks. They had the standard VW tow bars on the wall for sale ($69.95) for many years. These units came without a hitch lever retainer or safety chains of any kind... Never mind about lights.... In those days nobody thought about protecting a well worn 65 bug they had just bought <barely running> for $75
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NOVA Airhead
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 2:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sxuxrxf wrote:
surfarii, do you have any experience or thoughts on a system like this?
http://www.readybrake.com/brake-systems.html

btw...before moving to O'side, I lived near your shop on Wilson/Fairview. I stopped in one day for some advice on building my surfboard/bike rack for my motor home. (rack has been revised since pics)


For what it's worth, I'm one of the lucky ones who has towed VW's many thousands of miles without issue. (knock on wood)
I use the generic VW style tow bar, with a few modifications. I welded in a support bar to reduce the amount of twist, as well as adding some stops near the beam connections so the bar stays located properly and doesn't kill the zerks.
I also have safety chains from the bar to the receiver, as well as a separate chain from the beam to the receiver.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Just finished a trip around the US towing my Thing with my modified tow bar and safety chains on BOTH sides - axle and hitch side. Did about 5K miles with no problems. Received complements and questions on the car every place I went.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 6:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have and use a tow bar for short trips, but when I moved to fl and back I used my 8x18' enclosed car trailer. And yes storage is an issue
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 8:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I went out and bought a used 2 wheel trailer for $500, but it needed a bit of work so say $650.
In CA the max trailer that does not need brakes is 3000 lbs, and the minivan tow weight is 3300 lbs, so I think the Thingster on a 2 wheel trailer is well within the capabilities.

I have trailered it 2000 miles to WA and back, and gone off roading in the Mojave several times, 1000 mile round trip. It is great when you break something as I seem to do.
But a 2 wheel trailer is easy to store with the Thingster on top.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2014 1:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am not taking any sides just passing on my experience. I have been towing a Beetle behind my Motorhome for the past 5 years with a VW tow bar that mounts to the lower beam tube and have not had ant problems. I average 6000-8000 miles a year towing it . I will say I did have a tow bar brake but it was not the bars fault the Beetle was hit from behind by a fully loaded Gravel dump truck with a fully loaded trailer behind the truck, The Beetle was pushed into the back of the Motorhome and the tow bar was bent in two and broke also the hitch receiver was bent and push forward. The Bike rack mounted to the hitch bar stopped the Beetle from hitting the back of the Motorhome.
Blue Ox makes a tow bar base plate that mounts to the front beam permanently and a tow bar then hooks to that base plate just under the bumper. Also I always have safety chains running from the towing vehicle back to the lower beam tube and I put a lock on the hitch ball release.
First pic is the Blue ox base plate.
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GI Joe
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2014 5:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

RealThing74 wrote:


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Shocked whoa!!!
Poor lil bug....
Can't believe the motor home didn't receive damage too! The bug took one for the team there...
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