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Steering rag joint donut torque specs.
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herkster
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 26, 2014 10:13 am    Post subject: Steering rag joint donut torque specs. Reply with quote

Hi All,

What is the proper torque for the steering rag joint / donut on both the steering shaft input (from the steering box) and output to the steering shaft (to the driver) as well as the donut itself?

While we are at it what is the proper torque for the pedal assembly to the tunnel and Master cylinder to the chassis?

Can I find these somewhere? I did a search but didn't seem to hit it.

Thanks,

Herk
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didget69
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 26, 2014 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Short of finding an exact spec in a VW manual, you could look into recommended bolt torque specs based on bolt size & tensile rating... for example:

http://www.dansmc.com/torque_chart.htm
http://www.cncexpo.com/MetricBoltTorque.aspx

bnc
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 26, 2014 5:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

14ft.-lbs.

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herkster
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 26, 2014 8:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks!
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manxdavid
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 6:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

TBH I've never ever used a torque wrench when working on VWs. There are only 4 basic torques: just nipped, just tight enough, quite tight and really bl**dy tight... Laughing
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herkster
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 7:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

David,

I agree but coming form working on aircraft i just want it right too. I don't want any unknown issues popping up after completing the build. It seemingly complicated enough with all the changes we have accomplished.
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 9:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When there is no torque specified, I usually just tighten 8mm class 10.9 bolts to around 20-25ftlbs. That is what all the stuff on my steering box is...

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didget69
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 8:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vanapplebomb wrote:
When there is no torque specified, I usually just tighten 8mm class 10.9 bolts to around 20-25ftlbs. That is what all the stuff on my steering box is...

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And, as I posted - at 25ft/lb, you'd be on the high end (recommended 24ft/lb.) of the dry torque spec for an 8mm 10.9 grade bolt... Laughing

There is no magic to torque specs for bolts. Engineering charts for bolt specs can be your friend in a pinch.

Or - as an alternative: an old machinist I worked with in the late Eighties used to say "tighten the p*ss out of it & go a quarter turn more", regardless of bolt size/grade/thread... all jokingly stated, of course.

bnc
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 9:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

didget69 wrote:


Or - as an alternative: an old machinist I worked with in the late Eighties used to say "tighten the p*ss out of it & go a quarter turn more", regardless of bolt size/grade/thread... all jokingly stated, of course.

bnc


Funny story from a few years ago...I really underestimated how tight I was tightening a bolt by hand. Needless to say, I ended up with a wonderful looking bullseye on my forehead. The welt took three days to go down. Scared the living crap out of me when the bolt snapped. Now I never crank down bolts hard without safety glasses.
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manxdavid
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 11:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vanapplebomb wrote:
When there is no torque specified, I usually just tighten 8mm class 10.9 bolts to around 20-25ftlbs. That is what all the stuff on my steering box is...

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Those bolts are too short friend, they don't extend far enough into the nylon locking disc. There should be one full thread extending out of the nut for it to do its job correctly.
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