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Bad Thing, good buggy
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impaleale
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 6:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If your wondering why I cut these... To ensure its the correct ride. I'm not going to beat myself and it's called suspension. It's made to move, like my hot body on the dance floor. Fast, sexy and smooth.
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impaleale
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 7:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Here is half way through the adjuster install. I will cover more tomorrow. I will let this all sink in. The adjusters are not as easy to install as you might think or the YouTube shows. Also, when your beam is apart replace your ball joints and all other bearings and too it off with seals. Take your time to replace zirc fittings. Once you open your beam wear rubber gloves. It's going to get very messy. 30+ years grease turns nasty. With that I mind clean out the beam and the trailing arms (they will go back together a lot easier).
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impaleale
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 7:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On a side note. I cut it back apart and reweld end it with the TIG. Not a fan of welding some thing that will take a real beating with a MIG. You want full penetration and nothing less
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EVfun
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 7:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a cut and welded bar in one tube -- forgot if it was the upper or lower. I used a large leaf to make the pieces and tapered the ends to make installation easier. I welded the leaves in place in between the leaves and only where the bars where fixed in the blocks. I'm not sure if welding off the end where the inner one can flex is a good idea.
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As a general rule, cheap parts are the most expensive parts you can buy.
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impaleale
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 7:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

EVfun, I did give that thought. I'm pretty confident my tacks will break before serious problems occur. At least that's what I hope. So what did you do about the ends?
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EVfun
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 7:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tack welded on the outside end and between the leaves opposite where the grub screws clamp the leaves in place. I removed all the small bars from one of the bundles. The king and link pin cars have 4 small leaves, each half the width of the large leaves, so the bar bundle comes out as a square.

I've been told that with a ball joint front end you don't need to fit spacers in place of the single top and bottom small leaf, though putting spacers at each end isn't a bad idea to keep grease in and water out.
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Wildthings wrote:
As a general rule, cheap parts are the most expensive parts you can buy.


Last edited by EVfun on Tue Dec 09, 2014 6:47 am; edited 1 time in total
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 09, 2014 4:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some one has already changed the leaves. That spring pack is not from a Thing. The four main, full width leaves are the same thickness. The Things used three thicker leaves and one thinner leave. This gave the Thing a higher spring rate, but still allowing them to fit in the beetle size pack area..

In a buggy, you are better off with Beetle leaves.
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Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race

Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.

Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone
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impaleale
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 09, 2014 5:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joe, is this s good Thing that it was changed than? You lost me. I hate this car. Never buy a car from Mexico. I have already taken off the mis match rear brakes and rear trailing arms.
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 09, 2014 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

impaleale wrote:
Joe, is this s good Thing that it was changed than? You lost me. I hate this car. Never buy a car from Mexico. I have already taken off the mis match rear brakes and rear trailing arms.


Yes it is a good thing the torsion leaves have been changed. The Thing leaves would have been super stiff on a buggy. You now have Beetle leaves that have less of a spring rate and will make the buggy ride a little softer.

It is a plus.

I understand the frustration. But, once you get it done and drive it, you will start to forget the frustration and the enjoyment of doing this yourself will be overwhelming. Keep at it, you are doing a nice job.
_________________
Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race

Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.

Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone
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impaleale
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 10, 2014 5:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I am encouraged by your words. I got to get my spindles on tomorrow, thing spindles will be the perfect match for my rear end. I got some days off ahead of me! Time to work on buggy and make cheap empi parts work.
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 5:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Time to work on buggy and make cheap empi parts work.


HaHaHa!

I think a lot of us here are becoming experts at that.
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Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race

Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.

Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone
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impaleale
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 25, 2014 5:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, set back after set back. Thing ball joints are different than beetle, this we all know. Thing are stronger when installed correctly they both point down. If you are putting a bus trans in a beetle or buggy that's great! DO NOT buy a empi dog leg adapter for the shift rod to bus trans. I had to open the size of hole for the trans and re-tap the grub screw. Still junk. Make your own. Don't buy it thinking you can "I can make it work." I am in the Coast Guard, we get junk that some politic dreamed up and spent a lot of money on that has no field experience all the time and told to make it work. It's trash. My next posts will be positive.
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impaleale
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2014 6:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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I got the new aluminum floors in. I had to crop a section from a pan for the where the pedal cluster is. Could I havd made one? Yes. It took me very little time to cut down the pan and put it in. Don't spend hours beating your self for a part no one will see well. As long as it is very durable who cares.
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impaleale
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2014 6:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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impaleale
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2014 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm about to bolt the body down for the final time hopefully. How many people really used gaskets? I was thinking just black caulk. Any thoughts out there? The roll cage will be sitting on top sandwiching the super strong chassi fiberglass body then roll cage.
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impaleale
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2014 1:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Also here is one of the seats in going to use. I need to cut down the mount about an inch or two.
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impaleale
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2015 3:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tried to use the search and a lot came up, over a thousand. What is the proper degree the steering box should be at? Notice I did not say "what is the right angle the steer box should be at?" I did not want any geometry jokes. But if you know a good one please do. My front end is close to being done.
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impaleale
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2015 4:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Well, I got it all back together and put it all back to the messurements before I rebuilt it. I am not thinking I won't have to get an alignment, I'm just hoping doing so will get me down the road to the alignment shop. I am still looking for the proper degree of the steering box.
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EVfun
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2015 5:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If your front beam is stock you should have some tabs spot welded to it that locate the box. At least with some years, if you turn the bottom clamp around it will slightly change the box angle to what the Ghia used.

If those have been removed then it isn't so easy. The lowest (closest to horizontal) angle the box should be at can be found by jacking the front into the with the wheels and tires in place and turning the box down until the long tie rod is just shy of hitting the tunnel.

Usually, the issue is that direction, not how far upward you can point the steering box. I'm pretty sure turning it up would increase bump steer from the left tire and eventually cause binding in the short tie rod.
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Wildthings wrote:
As a general rule, cheap parts are the most expensive parts you can buy.
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impaleale
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2015 5:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good info. Thanks. I have that little raised tab. I did not know if that was just a left and right thing. I installed adjusters in the beam so I can lift it to make it level with the rear. It's pretty stiff up front right now. All joints are new and anti seize has been placed on all threaded parts.
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