Hello! Log in or Register   |  Help  |  Donate  |  Buy Shirts See all banner ads | Advertise on TheSamba.com  
TheSamba.com
 
2276 Build!
Page: 1, 2  Next
Forum Index -> Performance/Engines/Transmissions Share: Facebook Twitter
Reply to topic
Print View
Quick sort: Show newest posts on top | Show oldest posts on top View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
OldSlammers
Samba Member


Joined: January 29, 2014
Posts: 18
Location: Reno Nevada
OldSlammers is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 3:30 am    Post subject: 2276 Build! Reply with quote

Last summer I had a 1915 in my Karmann Ghia. After a show the engine took a big shit. Turns out I broke a crank! Now I'm on a bigger and faster engine a 2276.

This is what I plan on running

My old AS41 case
82mm CW Crank from CB
CB 5.5 VW Journal Rods
New AA 94's (My old 94's barley have any ware, could I still use them with a stroker?)
Engle FK Series Cam (Not sure which one? FK87?)
CB Lifters
Heavily Port my 042 headswith 42x37.5
Scat 1.4 Rockers (Depending on cam)
44 Webers
1 5/8 merged exhaust
10.5:1? I want the compression a bit high. Weekend driver/Strip


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



I had my case sent out to Brotheres VW
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Linebored, stroker clearance, full flowed, welded the center main (spread), decked case.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
ALB
Samba Member


Joined: August 05, 2008
Posts: 3483
Location: beautiful suburban Wet Coast of Canada
ALB is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 6:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What cam was in the 1915? Did you like the powerband? The FK87 will make power to somewhere around 7500-8,000rpm if everything else is right (I think the 44's may hold it back), but at the expense lower end and midrange power, where you'll be 95% of the time on the street. Unless you're very dedicated and have close ratio gears to keep it in the powerband (and spend a lot of time at the track), it won't be a very fun car to drive. An FK8 (6500 peak)or even FK10 (7,000 or so) will allow you to drive the thing all over the place. Even though the 94's don't have much wear, the pin height is wrong and will make for an extremely wide engine with an 82mm crank, so a stroker p/c is in order. I would keep the compression down to about 9.25-9.5 for the FK8 and a half point higher for the FK10. You could run it a little higher, but you may not find it worth it for the extra little bit of power gained; you'll have to be spot on with the tune all the time and 1 bad batch of gas could spell disaster.

As usual, just my 2 1/2 cents (I'm Canadian, eh). Al
_________________
On a lifelong mission to prove (much to my wife's dismay) that Immaturity is Forever!!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
jfats808
Samba Member


Joined: December 10, 2007
Posts: 5022
Location: oahu hawaii
jfats808 is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 7:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You'll need "B" set of pistons and cylinders. With the 5.5 rods, you'll need to shim a bit as with a normal 5.4 rodded -82 stroke you get a little negative deck ( sticks out past at TDC). Id go with a FK10cam, but make sure you get those 042s really ported out to get the most out of it and the higher duration from the cam. An FK8 would be a great cam if you decide to leave the heads as is. FK87 requires a bit more CR and better flowing heads. Good choice on lifters and good choice on rocker assemblies. 10.5 can work very well with that cam. My take.
_________________
2276 IDA's 86C 11-1 DD !
2017 48 Trijet DRLA's W125

Rockstar Suzuki wrote:

You might as well put 10 year build in your bullshit sig, as it will NEVER run. Also your a dick

You can always learn something new, even from a fool.
Check your oil levels routinely!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
[email protected]
Samba Member


Joined: August 03, 2002
Posts: 12785
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
john@aircooled.net is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 7:36 am    Post subject: Re: 2276 Build! Reply with quote

Use a 86C or FK45-46.
_________________
It's just advice, do whatever you want with it!

Please do NOT send me Private Messages through the Samba PM System (I will not see them). Send me an e-mail to john at aircooled dot net

"Like" our Facebook page at
http://www.facebook.com/vwpartsaircoolednet
and get a 5% off code for use on one order for VW Parts ON OUR PARTS STORE WEBSITE, vwparts.aircooled.net
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website Facebook Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Mark
Samba Member


Joined: January 20, 2003
Posts: 1523
Location: Victoria, BC Canada
Mark is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 8:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Curious, what crank were you running in your 1915?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website Gallery Classifieds Feedback
zac_atac44
Samba Member


Joined: September 18, 2011
Posts: 269
Location: Tennessee
zac_atac44 is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 11:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What kind of Crank did you have that broke?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
OldSlammers
Samba Member


Joined: January 29, 2014
Posts: 18
Location: Reno Nevada
OldSlammers is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 2:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ALB wrote:
What cam was in the 1915? Did you like the powerband? The FK87 will make power to somewhere around 7500-8,000rpm if everything else is right (I think the 44's may hold it back), but at the expense lower end and midrange power, where you'll be 95% of the time on the street. Unless you're very dedicated and have close ratio gears to keep it in the powerband (and spend a lot of time at the track), it won't be a very fun car to drive. An FK8 (6500 peak)or even FK10 (7,000 or so) will allow you to drive the thing all over the place. Even though the 94's don't have much wear, the pin height is wrong and will make for an extremely wide engine with an 82mm crank, so a stroker p/c is in order. I would keep the compression down to about 9.25-9.5 for the FK8 and a half point higher for the FK10. You could run it a little higher, but you may not find it worth it for the extra little bit of power gained; you'll have to be spot on with the tune all the time and 1 bad batch of gas could spell disaster.

As usual, just my 2 1/2 cents (I'm Canadian, eh). Al


I had an Engle 110 in the 1915, I kind of like the FK8. I ran 9.5 in the 1915 thought I'd up it for a stroker. And for the p/c's that's what I've been reading for a stroker. I'll probably end up saving them and building a 2nd motor.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
OldSlammers
Samba Member


Joined: January 29, 2014
Posts: 18
Location: Reno Nevada
OldSlammers is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 2:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

zac_atac44 wrote:
What kind of Crank did you have that broke?



The crank was a stock German 69mm. Revving over 6k got it to snap
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
77charger
Samba Member


Joined: November 12, 2005
Posts: 1492

77charger is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 4:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

More than 6500rpms is going to need forged pistons
_________________
Click to view image
Bugpack 4 seater rail
2275 built by me
Auto linea alm case,82 dpr crank wedgemated by DK machine
cb 5.4 h beams,12 pound DPR f/w,Slr xv294cam,cb straight cuts,hpmx 44s,40x35 heads ported by brothers machine
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Bugboy209
Samba Member


Joined: April 21, 2004
Posts: 473

Bugboy209 is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 7:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I see you picked up a set of AA pistons I would recommend you save up your $ and get some mahle stroker p's&c's the AA's are nice and pretty but that's about it sell the AAs
_________________
Ai Dos Mio...D.B.K!!! (o\ ! /o)
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
bugguy1967
Samba Member


Joined: January 16, 2008
Posts: 4341
Location: Los Angeles, CA 90016
bugguy1967 is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

77charger wrote:
More than 6500rpms is going to need forged pistons


Why?
_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
bugguy1967
Samba Member


Joined: January 16, 2008
Posts: 4341
Location: Los Angeles, CA 90016
bugguy1967 is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bugboy209 wrote:
I see you picked up a set of AA pistons I would recommend you save up your $ and get some mahle stroker p's&c's the AA's are nice and pretty but that's about it sell the AAs


Why?
_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Bugboy209
Samba Member


Joined: April 21, 2004
Posts: 473

Bugboy209 is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Jan 30, 2014 12:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bugguy1967 wrote:
Bugboy209 wrote:
I see you picked up a set of AA pistons I would recommend you save up your $ and get some mahle stroker p's&c's the AA's are nice and pretty but that's about it sell the AAs


Why?


The casting is horrible and it also shows in the price
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Invest in mahle the best you can get I put a set in my 1641 and my 2276
_________________
Ai Dos Mio...D.B.K!!! (o\ ! /o)
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
OldSlammers
Samba Member


Joined: January 29, 2014
Posts: 18
Location: Reno Nevada
OldSlammers is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Feb 09, 2014 10:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jfats808 wrote:
You'll need "B" set of pistons and cylinders. With the 5.5 rods, you'll need to shim a bit as with a normal 5.4 rodded -82 stroke you get a little negative deck ( sticks out past at TDC). Id go with a FK10cam, but make sure you get those 042s really ported out to get the most out of it and the higher duration from the cam. An FK8 would be a great cam if you decide to leave the heads as is. FK87 requires a bit more CR and better flowing heads. Good choice on lifters and good choice on rocker assemblies. 10.5 can work very well with that cam. My take.



So I narrowed it down to the 5.4 Rods, but I am still deciding on a cam. Right now it's the FK10 or the FK87 the heads are going to be heavily ported. I've been reading on the forums about someone who has a set up similar to the one I'm going to build but drove it daily for 3 months. I'm not trying to drive it daily.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
77charger
Samba Member


Joined: November 12, 2005
Posts: 1492

77charger is offline 

PostPosted: Mon Feb 10, 2014 7:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bugguy1967 wrote:
77charger wrote:
More than 6500rpms is going to need forged pistons


Why?

Stronger is the main reason the AAs are great for no turbo set ups where rpms are kept under 6500.I know a few builders who have used them also with no probs on motors set up for peak power under 6500.

I am using them in my 2275 right now i had mahles but for my build my keep it under 6500rpm.Money was tight at rebuild too and i needed new cylinders so i figured i would try the AAs out.The mahle pistons i had are still good so i just put them away.But for the price of vw stuff these days its going to be cheaper to go watercooled next time.
_________________
Click to view image
Bugpack 4 seater rail
2275 built by me
Auto linea alm case,82 dpr crank wedgemated by DK machine
cb 5.4 h beams,12 pound DPR f/w,Slr xv294cam,cb straight cuts,hpmx 44s,40x35 heads ported by brothers machine
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
OldSlammers
Samba Member


Joined: January 29, 2014
Posts: 18
Location: Reno Nevada
OldSlammers is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 8:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Basically went an entire different direction with this build. I acquired a t3/t4 turbo and a hideaway turbo header for dead cheap in my local area for under $150, the turbo and the header basically brand new. Still going to be a stroker but running boost. Any recommendations on cam and CPR? I've heard people running 8-8.5 CPR with a fk8 but I'd like to keep it around 7.5:1 for more boost. What carbs should I run? I'm not really interested in going EFI, I have kadrons on hand but not to sure on them. What do youngish suggest?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
MURZI
Samba Member


Joined: August 25, 2005
Posts: 5063
Location: Madisonville, La
MURZI is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 9:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Call Vw paradise or Ron Lummus for a turbo cam. I believe the big boys are running a fk44/45 profile on a 112-114 CL
_________________
62 vert
2276
Tim’s welded heads
45 Dells
A1 sidewinder
Fk44 cam
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
RoadRacer
Samba Member


Joined: May 27, 2008
Posts: 28

RoadRacer is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 4:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another vote to lose the AAs, mine ended up costing me about $4,000:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

_________________
1969 Formula Vee, modified to have fun as a TT car.

2276cc, boat tailed case, Ultra Wedge Ports, 11.5:1, 7.5 lb. fly wheel, 48 IDFs, Crank Triggered, WebCam 86C, 1.4:1 rockers, Oberg filter, AJ SpeedShift sequential shifter, 4 Piston Wilwoods
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Classifieds Feedback
Chip Premium Member
Samba Member


Joined: July 19, 2008
Posts: 969
Location: Utah
Chip is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 6:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OldSlammers wrote:
Basically went an entire different direction with this build. I acquired a t3/t4 turbo and a hideaway turbo header for dead cheap in my local area for under $150, the turbo and the header basically brand new. Still going to be a stroker but running boost. Any recommendations on cam and CPR? I've heard people running 8-8.5 CPR with a fk8 but I'd like to keep it around 7.5:1 for more boost. What carbs should I run? I'm not really interested in going EFI, I have kadrons on hand but not to sure on them. What do youngish suggest?

The fk8 is a great turbo cam. 86b is another good one. I have a Paradise Motorsport grind in mine now, its huge, probably only drives decent because of the efi.

I think 7.5:1 is not wise. I would go more compression and less boost. compression is gonna give the motor power when not on boost. High boost creates heat before air enters the combustion chamber. While it is cool to say that you can run 15psi on pump gas, you will have a pig to drive around town, that only wakes up when your foot is buried. VS a 9:1+ setup that runs maybe 10psi but makes the same power, and gets out of its own way while not boosting.

Want best of both worlds? Buy squishies.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
58ragman
Samba Member


Joined: September 29, 2014
Posts: 404
Location: OC to ontario
58ragman is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Sep 18, 2016 4:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RoadRacer wrote:
Another vote to lose the AAs, mine ended up costing me about $4,000:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


never ever use AA products regardless how many wins or loses they got proof in the pudding garbage parts is an expensive list that goes in the trash
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Display posts from previous:   
Reply to topic    Forum Index -> Performance/Engines/Transmissions All times are Mountain Standard Time/Pacific Daylight Savings Time
Page: 1, 2  Next
Page 1 of 2

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

About | Help! | Advertise | Donate | Premium Membership | Privacy/Terms of Use | Contact Us | Site Map
Copyright © 1996-2023, Everett Barnes. All Rights Reserved.
Not affiliated with or sponsored by Volkswagen of America | Forum powered by phpBB
Links to eBay or other vendor sites may be affiliate links where the site receives compensation.