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Air Conditioner System Upgrades: Hoses, condenser, etc.
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Howesight
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 21, 2015 5:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Terry Kay wrote:
So what your attempting to hawk here in your flim flam county fair barker methods is, go ahead and dump the lesser product into an R-12 system, it'll all be good.

First off, 134-A is a low performance alternative to R-12, or R-12A, and regardless of what you hace done, or how you qenr about it, you'll never get anywhere near the same vent temps.
Second of all the R12-A isn't expensive.
So you gained nothing by short cutting the job.
The title of this subject is "Updates", not going backwards.

Again, if fir nothing else you lucked out with doung the minimum with a low performace product, at higher operating pressures, ans no gain in lower vent temps.

Good for you being the personified cave man.


Terry: You need a TV show (working title: "Whaddaya say, TK" ? "Better Call TK?") or to be a guest on Rush Limbaugh's auto air conditioning special.

"Flim flam." "County fair barker". I never get to hear that anymore . That's some funny stuff! Are you sure you don't have a ghost writer?
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Terry Kay
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 21, 2015 6:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just think if I was on " the factor" with Bill every night.

Heads would really spin.

Often imitated, never duplicated.

The Ute who is still a proponent of the cheap trick, low performance freon is really stuck in a large rut here.
He has no idea what the possibilities are using a product that's about the same money as the low HP 134.

Too bad.
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Last edited by Terry Kay on Wed Apr 22, 2015 5:46 am; edited 1 time in total
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vanis13
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 21, 2015 10:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey TK, I appreciate your response and agree with it, just pointing out there is another way. one nice thing about 134 is that is readily available.


And really, If I wasn't using it is 110 degree New Mexico heat, I would be less of an advocate. but it WORKS! and it works well - often needing to turn it down on the highway because we are cold in the F seats.

Any way, It would be fun to meet sometimes I'm visiting Lombard. I have much respect for your approach so it would be cool to see what the physical manifestations your technical mind creates.
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Farf
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 9:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dave,
Just rolled in from Corwyn's Baja adventure last night. I had seen your request for wiring info earlier but did not have access to the computer the info was on. I have an 86 with the early a/c, no pressure switches. This one shows a pressure switch but is different from the Bentley diagram. Its a bit blurry but a hard copy and a good pair of glasses helps.

Good luck, Mike

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 9:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a 91, the dryer is located in the rear wheel well so hose lengths are going to be slightly different. I am calculating 12' of #6 hose from Condenser to evaporator, perhaps another 6 feet from the dryer to the evaporator. and maybe 14' of # 8 from the condenser to the compressor. I plan on adding two feet of each just to be on the safe side. The engine has been converted to a 1.8T so the compressor is in the lower passenger side of the engine compartment.

Last edited by greebly on Sat Apr 25, 2015 10:57 am; edited 2 times in total
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djkeev
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 9:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for posting that!

This isnthe closest diagram I,ve yet seen for the early 1986 AC systems.

This diagram shows a coolant gas pressure shut off switch as well as an ambient temoerature switch.

Not bad items to have but it wasn't installed by VW.

I'll study it some more, it IS hard to read!

But many many many thanks!

Dave
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dhaavers
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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2015 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Related to "AC rebuild/upgrade" but probably not worth it's own thread...

Anyone have a way to renew or replace the graphic <or> the entire trim piece on my '86?

Here's what I've got:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


As you can see, I've lost letters and graphics all the way across the panel. Any ideas for "good-as-new"...???

I could simply type something up and just tape it in place but I'm not even sure what I'm missing here.
Not that I'm all that OCD, but since I'm resurrecting the AC system I'd just as soon have things readable.

Bonus points if I could remove and reinstall it straighter than the dealer tech did back in the day... Rolling Eyes Laughing Wink

- Dave
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Terry Kay
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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2015 8:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Simple,
Take the dash plaque to a vinyl sign kinda guy, and he can print one out for you.
Stick it on the plaque--it's as good as new.
And you can be creative on what you want it to read --
Done.
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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2015 9:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dhaavers wrote:
Here's what I've got:

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Anyone find a source for this single combined fan/temp single switch? I've only been able to find the separate ones for the fan or the temp.

Tried rebuilding mine w/o luck it was arced too much. now I have the temp (rheostat) connected and the fan is controlled by a separate generic thee position rocker switch. Would really like to put it back together in one piece.
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djkeev
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PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2015 12:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

GoWesty has them.... $30

http://www.gowesty.com/ec_view_details.php?id=4065

Dave
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dhaavers
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PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2015 6:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So - could any of you guys post up a pic of your pristine panel?
Then I'll have something to show my vinyl guy...??? Rolling Eyes
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PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2015 6:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

djkeev wrote:
GoWesty has them.... $30

http://www.gowesty.com/ec_view_details.php?id=4065

Dave


thanks, and thanks to the customer that found them for GoWesty
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Altoona
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PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2015 10:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dhaavers wrote:
So - could any of you guys post up a pic of your pristine panel?
Then I'll have something to show my vinyl guy...??? Rolling Eyes


Take a look at the link to the switch on GW. It has a nice panel in one of the pics.
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Terry Kay
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PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2015 1:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your vinyl guy can male the corrections / additions right there in his shop on his computer.
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dhaavers
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PostPosted: Sat May 16, 2015 5:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

^^^ Awesome - thanks, y'all!

Now off to flush condenser/evap & cut new hoses.
I'll be re-installing & charging AC probably next weekend!

<cool> Laughing
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PostPosted: Sat May 16, 2015 9:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

FWIW - I found & will use this for reference:

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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2015 9:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cellerdoor wrote:
Gap between the condenser and radiator:

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Its about 2" at the bottom and 1" at the top. Ill have to ponder how to close this.

Maybe I missed the answer, but why not foam pipe insulation all around the perimeter...???
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


It compresses to fit, out of the sun, but temp rating is only 180F (absolute limit of 220F).
Good enough? Anything better?

I'm on this today...
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djkeev
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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2015 2:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That insulation is a great idea!

Non porous, cheap, compresses!
Why not?

Dave
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dhaavers
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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2015 5:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

FWIW - As I got to this today, I used spacers to put the condenser closer to the radiator, so no
insulation required. I found recommendations ranging from 3/16" to no more than 1/2"...

1) Vintage Air - Section VI / subsection D: http://www.vintageair.com/AC%20Basics/AC%20Basics%204.23.15.pdf
2) Griffin Radiator - Question #6: http://www.griffinrad.com/options_accessories.php?tid=43
3) Resident expert on another "classic" car forum:

Quote:
The condenser should be as close as possible to the radiator. If it's spaced too far away, the
air flow becomes turbulent between the two and the efficiency of the radiator is reduced. Warm
air flowing cleanly through the radiator removes more heat than cooler air that's turbulent.

...I managed to get the spacing down to 1/2" & called it good. (pics later - heading out of town!)

- Dave
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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2015 7:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pic - as promised - mounted with a short pipe nipple & actually got spacing under 3/8":

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All mounting hardware zinc-plated or galvanized, as recommended by NA.
I can't imagine I'll need any insulation "gap-stopper" with this install, but
I do plan to renew the old cardboard with "new" yard signs.

Should work! Cool

- Dave
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