Official Mexican / Brazilian Beetles - All years

hopkin · Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2015 7:49 pm Post subject:

Thanks for the info Garba:

Here are the keys for my car, I also did some editing to conceal the key cut.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

When my car arrived in Canada, it had 3 keys (no copies), 1 for ignition/doors/rear engine, 1 for the glove box and 1 for the gas cap. There is no 'keyed' alarm on my car, I believe it was introduced in '97 or '98.

The keyed glove box knob was added as part of the requirement for registration in the UK. It was a cheap lock that broke last summer. I replaced it with a 'Hella' keyed glove box knob.

In the picture the left key is the same as yours, the original 'AN' key. The key beside it was a generic one I had cut shortly after my car arrived in Canada. It works fine in the doors/ignition and cost me about $5.

The two uncut blanks with the VW center appear to be the same as the 'HV' blank in your picture, although there is no code stamped on the blanks. I bought these from Antonio a few years ago but have never got around to getting them cut. The key on the right is for my glove box, it's a Hella key, but you can see what looks like a VW logo under the black circle. It has a 'VB' code, and looks to be the same profile as the 'AN' and 'HV' keys.

I do not have a spare gas cap key, and I never lock it anyways. I believe that it a European requirement that all cars have a locking gas cap. There is no such requirement here.

Here are the 'HV' key blanks and Hella glove box knobs that Antonio has.

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1971 Super Beetle (past)
1971 Super Beetle (past)
1974 SunBug (past)
1972 914 (past)
1991 Honda Civic (Original Owner)
1996 'Open Air' Mexican Beetle (current)
2015 Golf (current)
2017 Dune Edition (daughter's car)

GArBa · Posted: Thu Jul 30, 2015 4:35 am Post subject:

by looking at the pics, it looks like the keys in antonio's pic are indeed "AN", while the two blanks you have are clearly "HV". Interesting...
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cars:
'97 type 1 1600i
~~'14 type AA Seat Mii~~ (sadly dead after 270.000 km)
'22 type C1 T-Cross
'23 type AC3 Hyundai I10 (VW no longer makes small cars!)
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moped:
'82 Benelli Magnum 3v

Gerrelt · Posted: Thu Jul 30, 2015 1:16 pm Post subject:

GArBa · Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2015 4:44 am Post subject:

mike58 · Samba Member Joined: July 27, 2015 Posts: 12

My sons first car
Its a 2002 Mexican Beetle, now living in Glasgow, Scotland UK.
Exhaust looked a bit rusty and car needed a bit more energy.....

[/img]

it will be in great company, meet its big brother ( Porsche is 3 yrs older !! )

hopkin · Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2015 12:13 pm Post subject:

Nice cars Mike...

I like your choice of license plate numbers as well.

Cheers and welcome!
_________________
1971 Super Beetle (past)
1971 Super Beetle (past)
1974 SunBug (past)
1972 914 (past)
1991 Honda Civic (Original Owner)
1996 'Open Air' Mexican Beetle (current)
2015 Golf (current)
2017 Dune Edition (daughter's car)

mike58 · Samba Member Joined: July 27, 2015 Posts: 12

Cheers
The plates compliment each other and weren't too expensive.
I passed my test in a '72 Beetle and then moved on to 911s when I was older but I've always had a love for the bug and when my son showed an interest it didn't take long to decide to get one.
I looked at trying to find my dads old Beetle regd. UK NUS 16M but couldn't find it.
The Samba site is a great resource, I'll be on it a lot to get the best out of the car and to learn what not to do !!!!

hopkin · Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2015 8:07 pm Post subject:

From your picture, it looks like your son's Beetle was converted to RHD, probably by Beetles UK. If so, the speedo would have their name under the fuel gauge.

PM me if you need any technical info about the Mexican Beetles. Garba and Gerrelt are regular followers of this thread and have also posted a lot of great information.

Have a look at this thread regarding a couple of fire hazards that have been identified with the Mexican Beetles. One is unique to the Euro-modified Mexican Beetles, specifically the rear fog light may not be fused.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7175861

Also check out www.1600i.de, there is a lot of other info there, wiring diagrams, etc.

I bought my LHD '96 Mexi-Beetle in the UK and brought it to Canada. I was able to register the car here with the UK number.
Original UK plate:

My Ontario plate:

_________________
1971 Super Beetle (past)
1971 Super Beetle (past)
1974 SunBug (past)
1972 914 (past)
1991 Honda Civic (Original Owner)
1996 'Open Air' Mexican Beetle (current)
2015 Golf (current)
2017 Dune Edition (daughter's car)

hopkin · Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2015 8:29 pm Post subject: Out of alignment lights

What I see in this picture has been bothering me ever since I bought the car.

I always knew that the turn lights on my front fenders weren't straight, but this aerial shot really shows just how far off they are.

The lights were added by a local garage when my car was imported from Germany to the UK in 2001. They should actually be much closer to the headlights, and hood (bonnet), if they were to match the early 60s position.

This picture shows the effect of the incorrect position, the lights look crooked from a front view, especially the passenger side:

A really close look (and I got the measuring tape out) also shows that not only are they crooked, the passenger side light is about 1 inch further back (than the driver's side) on the fender.

Mmmm, what to do... my OCD is kicking in and I smell a winter project here.

I'm thinking of straightening the driver's side, to be parallel with the center 'line' of the car. Technically easy, I just have to drill a new hole for the rear mounting bolt, make the opening for the light socket and rubber boot oval shaped and rotate the light counter clockwise using the front mounting bolt as the pivot point. The light should cover the extra hole.

The passenger side is a little more tricky, I can move the light forward and I think it will cover any drilling underneath, but the existing opening for the light socket and boot would prevent me from simply drilling new holes. I could weld a piece in, I really don't want to mess up the paint finish (and I've never even held a welder).

I can live with the fact that they are too far back (compared to models that came with these lights), I would just like them evenly positioned.

My biggest concern is how to measure everything, could anyone offer advice on how I could measure each side to get a 'straight' line, and equal positioning?
_________________
1971 Super Beetle (past)
1971 Super Beetle (past)
1974 SunBug (past)
1972 914 (past)
1991 Honda Civic (Original Owner)
1996 'Open Air' Mexican Beetle (current)
2015 Golf (current)
2017 Dune Edition (daughter's car)

Bruce · Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2015 2:20 am Post subject:

I vote for completely removing them.
One of the distinctive features of a Mexican Beetle is the smooth tops of the front fenders.
Since you don't weld, find a good welder and have them butt weld in a piece, then grind it smooth. Your car is base-clear, so a good painter should be able to blend to the surrounding paint. Then clear the whole thing for an even shine.

Or, get two NOS front fenders. CIP1.com has them in stock in Canada!
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Gerrelt · Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2015 1:39 pm Post subject:

Hi Hopkin,

Sorry, I can't help you with the measurements.
I think I would "eyeball" one, and then replicate the measurements of that one to the other one.

On a different subject: I am almost ready to put the engine back in, but I also encounter problems with the injectors being just a tiny little bit to wide. Why didn't Volkswagen design these rails 1 cm to the inside.... Rolling Eyes

The strange thing is I got the engine out without removing the rails. But I think I had the engine at an angle, which helped a bit.

I read that you removed one of the rails. I am thinking about doing the same. Do you recommend removing only one, or would you remove them both the next time?
And how did you ensure no sand/dust entered the engine when removing the injectors?

Greetings,
Gerrelt.
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homepage
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Bruce · Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2015 2:37 pm Post subject:

My Mexican mechanic friend in Mazatlan told me to always remove both pairs of injectors when pulling the engine. The reason isn't primarily to clear the side panels, but that you run a good chance of breaking them if you leave them in and bump them hard enough while wrestling with the engine.
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hopkin · Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2015 3:28 pm Post subject:

Gerrelt · Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 10:29 am Post subject:

Thanks guys!

I will remove both rails before installing the engine.
I allready replaced the rubber fuel lines. I used water pump pliers to open the hose clamps which worked "OK". I can tell you that if the little clamp escapes the pliers and hits your finger, it really hurts! Laughing

Anyway, the rubber fuel lines are still fresh, so I hope I can remove them again easily.

And thanks for the tip on the engine seal, I never knew it should be like that. But it makes sense.

Greetings,
Gerrelt.
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homepage
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Gerrelt · Posted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 1:51 pm Post subject:

It's in!

Getting the rails and injectors off, was quite easy. Cleaning them and removing the fuel lines before was the most time consuming.

It is still a tight fit, the cooling tins just touched the car at the back. But they are a bit flexible, so it wasn't a real problem.
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homepage
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hopkin · Posted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 1:56 pm Post subject:

Gerrelt · Posted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 2:01 pm Post subject:

hopkin · Posted: Fri Aug 07, 2015 7:33 pm Post subject:

I rolled over 100,000 km today, so I celebrated by bringing my car back to Mexico (sort of):

(Mexico, New York)
_________________
1971 Super Beetle (past)
1971 Super Beetle (past)
1974 SunBug (past)
1972 914 (past)
1991 Honda Civic (Original Owner)
1996 'Open Air' Mexican Beetle (current)
2015 Golf (current)
2017 Dune Edition (daughter's car)

Gerrelt · Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 4:13 am Post subject:

Congratulations!

I can't drive my car to Mexico, but I can drive it to America. Smile

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homepage
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hopkin · Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 5:09 am Post subject:


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