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thebusandus Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2014 Posts: 412 Location: Alaska
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Posted: Sun Oct 05, 2014 12:20 pm Post subject: |
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Here is the wiring diagram of how I'm set up. You can see Tom even mentioned I would have to do the extension.
So I will have to wire
Ign on - to Coil
Alt Light - to Alt light
Start - wire it to the prong on top of the starter rather than the eye bolt connections
Ecu Tach - To tachometer
Check engine - I'll have to come up with a CEL
A/C - Not yet
Oil pressure switch - Wiring to stock oil pressure switch wire
Coolant temp - to ECU
VSS - Wiring to RJES VSS wire, IGN on wiring up front, grounding up front.
Sound good? _________________ 2.2 Suby powered - 75 Westy - Rita
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williamM Samba Member
Joined: August 07, 2008 Posts: 4333 Location: southwest Arizona
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Posted: Sun Oct 05, 2014 12:27 pm Post subject: |
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You can "tea pot" that block for enough ride to find out how every thing is going- just connect the lowest coolant line -to the highest one and fill it up. You now have enough coolant to run till fully warmed up- thats all the thermostat does any way. Might want to "T" in some sort of pressure relief.- much simpler than fill and drain.--
But your only guessing about a possible clutch problem _________________ some days I get up and just sit and think. Some days I just sit.
opinion untempered by fact is ignorance.
Don't step in any! |
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thebusandus Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2014 Posts: 412 Location: Alaska
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Posted: Sun Oct 05, 2014 1:17 pm Post subject: |
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That is a pretty good idea. The other thread I saw someone mentioned the spongy pedal being from needing a spacer somewhere along the wing but adjustment. _________________ 2.2 Suby powered - 75 Westy - Rita
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thebusandus Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2014 Posts: 412 Location: Alaska
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Posted: Sun Oct 05, 2014 2:22 pm Post subject: |
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I'm beginning to think it's because I have blockages in the clutch line. I pulled the rubber tube and it was really tough to pull the cable out of it. Now when I by hand pull the clutch cable it seems like there is resistance in the line. But the clutch pedal moves completely freely. It's getting below freezing I'm thinking there may be ice forming from water build up or something.
Two questions
Should the clutch cable move as freely as the throttle cable?
Should I be able to move the throw out bearing arm where the wing but is fairly easily with my hand? Mine springs back well, but not enough to return the clutch pedal.. I have a stage two pressure plate, I thought it would be fairly tough to move that arm.. _________________ 2.2 Suby powered - 75 Westy - Rita
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skills@eurocarsplus Samba Peckerhead
Joined: January 01, 2007 Posts: 16879 Location: sticksville, ct.
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Posted: Sun Oct 05, 2014 3:49 pm Post subject: |
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make sure you have the correct clutch cable. I was sold a late cable not knowing it was a late one and my clutch felt like a whoopee cushion _________________
gprudenciop wrote: |
my reason for switching to subaru is my german car was turning chinese so i said fuck it and went japanese....... |
Jake Raby wrote: |
Thanks for the correction. I used to be a nice guy, then I ruined it by exposing myself to the public. |
Brian wrote: |
Also the fact that people are agreeing with Skills, it's a turn of events for samba history |
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thebusandus Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2014 Posts: 412 Location: Alaska
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Posted: Sun Oct 05, 2014 4:22 pm Post subject: |
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I didn't buy a new one. I greased it up and tightened it a bunch, perhaps it is working now it just feels weird. I guess I'll see once it's driving. _________________ 2.2 Suby powered - 75 Westy - Rita
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thebusandus Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2014 Posts: 412 Location: Alaska
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Posted: Sun Oct 05, 2014 10:30 pm Post subject: |
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Wiring.
Ignition Wiring:
So I may have tapped into the wrong Coil wire. I would like some insight if possible from those who have done this swap, is this the correct wire to use for ignition on?
I used the wire from S11 (fuse box) to coil (N), it is a 1.5mm wire... black.
That look like the correct ignition on to use? The reason I ask is, I connected it and the other wires required to start, went to put the negative wire on and it sparked like crazy, there was a lot of load and I figured this was the cause..
Starter Wiring:
I had to wire in, from the Subaru, the alternator to starter wire, and the start signal from the starter to the ECU. I connected these all to the same eye bolt spot, is this correct? I left the pronged connection alone as from my wiring diagram it seems this cable runs towards the cab and should be left alone.
So the Top Prong = Stock
Prong closest to starter - nothing attached to this (I looked at my buddies 76 and his was like this)
Prong furthest from starter - Alternator Wire, Positive from Battery, and start signal wire to ECU.
Please chime in if you think this is right, or wrong! _________________ 2.2 Suby powered - 75 Westy - Rita
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thebusandus Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2014 Posts: 412 Location: Alaska
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Posted: Mon Oct 06, 2014 9:26 pm Post subject: |
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Today I went back at it. Blew a few multimeter fuses as the short is kicking out more than 10amps.
Here's what I did -
Reroute starter wiring, the second prong above starter was hiding, I decided that this was a better place for the ECU - START signal so I gave it a female connection and connected it. Then one by one tested each wire connecting to the starter for OHMS resistance then for AMPS being drawn. The only wires which gave any feedback were the two alternator wires. When these are connected to the starter (and therefor the battery) they are causing a short..
I am not sure what could cause this or where to start. This is a Tom Shiels ECU / Wiring which was bench tested.. so I am not sure if I should even be suspecting the wiring harness. Still no verification on if I'm using the correct IGN-On source. I really hate that these bentley wiring diagrams don't include location information, sure would make it a lot simpler to look at! _________________ 2.2 Suby powered - 75 Westy - Rita
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Stuartzickefoose Samba Post Whore
Joined: February 07, 2008 Posts: 10350 Location: SoCal for now...
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Posted: Mon Oct 06, 2014 10:20 pm Post subject: |
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become good friends with bigbore...he is a legend. _________________ Stuart Zickefoose
2011 Jetta Sportwagen TDi 6 speed manual
206-841-7324
[email protected] |
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thebusandus Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2014 Posts: 412 Location: Alaska
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Posted: Mon Oct 06, 2014 10:26 pm Post subject: |
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Unfortunately we have had the main Anchorage shop close this last year, so he is swamped. He is also taking a break this week and driving over to Canada so I can't get the bus to him . Either way, I think I would have to tow it there (60 miles) which is quite a drag. Trying to figure this out on my own (with help from Samba of course) _________________ 2.2 Suby powered - 75 Westy - Rita
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thebusandus Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2014 Posts: 412 Location: Alaska
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Posted: Fri Oct 10, 2014 1:17 am Post subject: Need Transmission Advise! |
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Got the wiring figured out, mostly. Enough to drive it.
I screwed around with the wing nut adjustment, wasn't able to get it into gear, it's sloppy of course as I doubt the coupler has ever been changed. But could that cause the following issues:
When trying to get it into gear with the car running it feels like its being blocked but if I really shove it it will grind.
If I start it in gear it feels like it should and I can drive, in that gear. However; 1000 feet or so it smells like its on fire (clutch burning up). I mean really bad, 5 minutes later there is still smoke coming off the clutch ( I can look into here as I don't have my dust plate on ) and the whole bus smells terrible. When I take it out of gear as I'm driving it is hard to remove from gear, as if there is a blockage or something and then it pops into neutral (and won't get back into any gear without turning the engine off).
From what I've read this can either be:
A throw out bearing somehow ; installed a new one but am now questioning it
A Pilot bearing, however this is new as it comes with the KEP Kit.
The Coupler or shift mechanism? - If I adjust my clutch further perhaps it will clamp better removing the burnt smell
I really obviously don't want to drop the engine I just finished installing so I am trying to gather as much information as possible but will do whatever it takes to get this thing done as fast as possible! _________________ 2.2 Suby powered - 75 Westy - Rita
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Bendejo Samba Member
Joined: March 14, 2012 Posts: 122 Location: Denver
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Posted: Fri Oct 10, 2014 5:50 am Post subject: |
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Does the engine turn freely by hand (or socket)?
My swap involved trimming 10mm from trans input shaft. Before I trimmed it the motor and trans were binding and very hard to turn.
Good luck. |
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thebusandus Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2014 Posts: 412 Location: Alaska
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Posted: Fri Oct 10, 2014 10:48 am Post subject: |
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Really, it seems I wouldn't be able to mount the engine and trans together at all if that were the case? _________________ 2.2 Suby powered - 75 Westy - Rita
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thebusandus Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2014 Posts: 412 Location: Alaska
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Posted: Fri Oct 10, 2014 11:34 am Post subject: |
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My other thought as of this morning. I noticed when I installed the transmission the rubber nose come mounts weren't very far up the mounting block, and one side actually seems to be further up than the other. I previously tried to adjust this by loosening the main trans mount and the engine mount and pushing it forward to no avail. Is this something which can be changed, or does the main transmission mount really dictate where the transmission will sit?
I had to sort of pry the nose come into the shift linkage coupler, and I'm starting to think the way to test allignment would be if that goes in smoothly. Or, as I can shift without it running, is this not a possibility. _________________ 2.2 Suby powered - 75 Westy - Rita
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thebusandus Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2014 Posts: 412 Location: Alaska
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Posted: Fri Oct 10, 2014 11:13 pm Post subject: |
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So I was able to get it into the garage today. Still not able to shift into gear, although I can shift into reverse while it's running, these symptoms all coincide with other threads, all pointing to an issue with the pilot bearing, or clutch. I suppose dropping the engine / trans tomorrow will be my Saturday activity.
One other thing I noticed. There was locating dowels included in the kit from RMW, however there was no where to place them on the flywheel / clutch from KEP. I didn't know why this was, but I figured it was fine. I did use the clutch alignment tool (although this put all the weight on the clutch alignment plastic tool) so I had a buddy help hold it in place while we put the bolts in... I suppose dropping the engine will tell all.
A question: Where can the clutch be adjusted? People have mentioned that the clutch can be adjusted around the shift plate, but I do not see any adjustment area here, the only place I know of is the wing nut..
_________________ 2.2 Suby powered - 75 Westy - Rita
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Stuartzickefoose Samba Post Whore
Joined: February 07, 2008 Posts: 10350 Location: SoCal for now...
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Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 6:48 pm Post subject: |
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sounds like your not getting enought throw on the clutch. too tight to get it in gear (clutch not going far enough down effectively,) and to loose to drive, slipping massively, as if your holding it down to far.
i vote you adjust the clutch cable again. sounds a bit tight?
and we gotta figure out why you have no throw in the clutch at all....how new is that cable? if its frayed, it can act okay but wont hold tension properly...worth pulling that before pulling the motor. _________________ Stuart Zickefoose
2011 Jetta Sportwagen TDi 6 speed manual
206-841-7324
[email protected] |
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Tcash Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011 Posts: 12844 Location: San Jose, California, USA
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Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 7:20 pm Post subject: Clutch Adjustment |
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Where can the clutch be adjusted?
BarryL wrote: |
With you finger(s) pulling back on the release arm you should be able to feel or hear a click as the throwout bearing hits the pressure plate contact ring. It should be where there is about one to two turns from that gap not being there. You pedal will feel that same contact point about 1" or so from the top. The clutching action will begin there and continue to the floor. Depending on the type pressure plate you have it should release fully about 3/4 way down. It should engage fully about 1/2 way up. |
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Stuartzickefoose Samba Post Whore
Joined: February 07, 2008 Posts: 10350 Location: SoCal for now...
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Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 7:26 pm Post subject: |
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For funnsies, can you take the cable cpmpletely out for me? Its faster then an engine pull. I suspect its frayed. _________________ Stuart Zickefoose
2011 Jetta Sportwagen TDi 6 speed manual
206-841-7324
[email protected] |
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thebusandus Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2014 Posts: 412 Location: Alaska
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Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 5:29 pm Post subject: |
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Definitely not the cable. Replaced it just for the hell of it I suppose.
Put in this HD cross shaft and bronze bushing. Had to file it a bit to get the circlips to fit correctly.
New shift coupling, decided against using the EMPI casing you can see the difference here. Just used the urethane bushings.
New starter> had to cut a bit out of the crossmember for it to fit. This is from a 2000ish jetta. Turns the suby much much better.
And after it was all installed similar problem but can't really tell what's going on until I fix a surging Idle issue. Hopefully wont' have to pull and fix anything. _________________ 2.2 Suby powered - 75 Westy - Rita
Panamerican Highway - 2014-2017
Last edited by thebusandus on Thu Oct 23, 2014 10:22 am; edited 1 time in total |
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thebusandus Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2014 Posts: 412 Location: Alaska
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Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 10:20 am Post subject: |
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Proof that I moved it, although this was last week
The ol outdoor garage.
Actually as it snowed about 7" which isn't melting I was able to move it into a garage.
Last time I installed the bowden tube mount I noticed the threads were real questionable, as one of the bolts spun a bit. I still ran it but this go around that wasn't an option. New size 10 x 1.5, nice and solid.
New vs old clevis pin. Interesting that the design is so different. I went with the new one but held on to the old one.
New vs old Bowden tube.
Clutch tube cleaning. I tied a series of pieces of cloth to a halibut line that I tied onto the end of my old clutch cable. When I pulled the clutch cable through it cleaned it out pretty well. Repeated the process a few times. The first go around yielded some good results. Definitely glad I did this as I could tell this muck was freezing inside of there.
Cleaning apparatus.
_________________ 2.2 Suby powered - 75 Westy - Rita
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