75 Bay Westy Project - Stuck in Alaska building a Busaru.

Stuartzickefoose · Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 10:45 am Post subject:

well, that would be a few small problems leading up to one big issue! that pile of gunk looks like slimy dog poo! Razz

glad you got it sorted. sucks you had to pull the motor again, but that bushing issue is not totally uncommon either. bummer, but glad its fixed! congrats! is it shifting well now?
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Stuart Zickefoose

2011 Jetta Sportwagen TDi 6 speed manual

206-841-7324
[email protected]

thebusandus · Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 11:18 am Post subject:

Nope, actually feels sometimes like the same problem. It's just that while the idle was surging I was able to shift into both 1st and 2nd... But other times I wasn't able to shift at all. I can't determine if I will be able to or not until I sort out the idle surging.. throwing 6 codes and in limp mode Evil or Very Mad

I feel that I need to mess with the shift plate and possibly some of the bushings before I can make a determination on whether or not I will have to pull the trans again. Perhaps I need some nose cone work done, I'm not sure.
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2.2 Suby powered - 75 Westy - Rita

Panamerican Highway - 2014-2017

Stuartzickefoose · Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 11:26 am Post subject:

thats a bummer for sure Sad

if you get under the trans while a buddy shifts the shifter around, can you notice any play in the linkage at all?

does the clutch arm move forward and backward at all when you step on the clutch? or does it just pivot? it should only pivot....not shaft play if you know what i mean.
_________________
Stuart Zickefoose

2011 Jetta Sportwagen TDi 6 speed manual

206-841-7324
[email protected]

thebusandus · Posted: Fri Oct 24, 2014 10:12 am Post subject:

While there is play for sure, I figured this cannot account for the issue as it still shifts fine without the bus running. With the bus running it is not disengaging, it is like pressing against a wall that begins to grind the harder you push.

Wanna see some nasty ish?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

My IAC / PCV / vacuum system which wasn't replaced was insanely corroded. I never took these hoses off which I most certainly should have as it would have been a lot easier to inspect with this thing out of the engine bay.

PCV was pretty rusted into the manifold, had to use PB blaster to get it out.

It runs much better now. With that much gunk in the lines I can't imagine what inside the engine looks like. I am thinking I will have to go through a case of Seafoam to get it clean.

Looking into the engine Crying or Very sad

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2.2 Suby powered - 75 Westy - Rita

Panamerican Highway - 2014-2017

Stuartzickefoose · Posted: Fri Oct 24, 2014 6:34 pm Post subject:

how did you pick this engine?

Effectively, your clutch is not noving far enough while the engine is running. That arm cannot have play, it must be solid and rotate only. Did you rebush it? What was the bushing pic of?
_________________
Stuart Zickefoose

2011 Jetta Sportwagen TDi 6 speed manual

206-841-7324
[email protected]

thebusandus · Posted: Sat Oct 25, 2014 11:43 am Post subject:

This bushing pic?

This is the HD bronze bushing from Weddle Industries. It is supposed to eliminate any flexing which will be there while using the stock thin bushing / plastic / rubber parts.

I have no play in the arm. What I really need is a measurement (somehow) of how far the arm of your clutch moves when you fully go through the pedals range. I need to know that my pedal is moving my clutch arm through the entire range, so I can rule out it being part of that system and rather internal (PP or clutch issues)
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2.2 Suby powered - 75 Westy - Rita

Panamerican Highway - 2014-2017

Stuartzickefoose · Posted: Sat Oct 25, 2014 4:13 pm Post subject:

Measure degrees of travel with a protractor. Center of the shaft to the end of the arm. Ill check mine when it stops raining....
_________________
Stuart Zickefoose

2011 Jetta Sportwagen TDi 6 speed manual

206-841-7324
[email protected]

thebusandus · Posted: Sat Oct 25, 2014 7:38 pm Post subject:

I spent some time under the bus, while someone pressed the clutch pedal in and out repeatedly, eventually I was able to find out a thing or two. The clutch pedal itself, where it meets the arm was a bit loose. The bolt was still tight on there, and there was no indication of it being loose, but with the stage 2 PP causing more pressure to be applied I could hear a faint metal on metal rub there. I tightened that up, nearly maxed out my wing nut, and realized my linkage was causing some of the issues as well. But low and behold I was able to drive it up the street, only made it into first and second, the subaru is running like shit. But oh boy, does it feel good to know that the clutch is releasing enough.
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2.2 Suby powered - 75 Westy - Rita

Panamerican Highway - 2014-2017

Stuartzickefoose · Posted: Sat Oct 25, 2014 9:13 pm Post subject:

For now its solved then?

If so, thats great!

Now about that motor.....whats it doing?
_________________
Stuart Zickefoose

2011 Jetta Sportwagen TDi 6 speed manual

206-841-7324
[email protected]

thebusandus · Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 11:02 am Post subject:

Will hardly idle- does better at higher RPMs - to much fuel runs insanely rich.

Can't get it to closed loop as it wont run long enough even when I'm feathering throttle.

Fouled plugs, decided why don't I unplug fuel pump to dry it out. Crank it over, boom starts and idles perfect, wtf! Replaced fuel pump regulator after PSI testing, didn't really help. I'm thinking some vacuum issues, still investigating.

After driving it a bit it was really hard to get in and out of gear, I'm getting a ton of noise from the nose cone trying to shift when the engines off Sad

.
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2.2 Suby powered - 75 Westy - Rita

Panamerican Highway - 2014-2017

skills@eurocarsplus · Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 12:10 pm Post subject:

Sorry for all your troubles....

Other than a idle issue (and cooling issue) I just flipped 1k on my swap.

After seeing what the inside of your engine looked like, you can see why I bought all new stuff...including the engine.

I own the subaru select monitor as well as a host of top dollar diag equipment.

What codes are you getting?

Also, if you didn't replace your coolant temp sensor with a GENUINE subaru one, you are asking for trouble. They are known to fail.

What is your ect show on your scanner?
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thebusandus · Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 9:14 pm Post subject:

I had some interesting codes. TPS, EGR, Auto Tranny, had a strange MAF code once.. I fixed them one at a time and it never fixed the issue.

The Fuel pump disconnect making it run better is interesting, as when you turn the key off and so fuel pump power is off, the bus starts to run better Shocked

then it takes a few seconds to turn off. It gave me some good insight into having fuel pressure issues, the PSI in the fuel system was in spec, and it turns out it was a major vacuum issue coming from low and behold the brake booster way up under the bus.

The engine was overcompensating an insane amount for the major air leak in the booster system causing it to pump in fuel like crazy, so much so that it wouldn't run. I haven't messed with the brakes ever so I am going to delve into that.

Just got some Eurovan Seats for $50 that I'm installing. The vanagon seats I have were pretty soft and a definite upgrade from the bus seats but sat super high, well the eurovan seats are even higher but a major upgrade from the vanagon seats so I'm going to try to shave a few inches of foam off and reinstall them.

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2.2 Suby powered - 75 Westy - Rita

Panamerican Highway - 2014-2017

Stuartzickefoose · Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 9:24 pm Post subject:

so the brake booster was leaking, and now its running okay then? Smile

_________________
Stuart Zickefoose

2011 Jetta Sportwagen TDi 6 speed manual

206-841-7324
[email protected]

thebusandus · Posted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 10:28 am Post subject:

Yup, pretty crazy how insane vacuum leaks can make your engine act. I'm wondering if this booster issue was there before if it is why the previous owner gave up on it, as all the engine components looked pretty new.
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2.2 Suby powered - 75 Westy - Rita

Panamerican Highway - 2014-2017

Stuartzickefoose · Posted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 8:44 pm Post subject:

so now your running properly, and almost shifting okay? have you driven it yet then?? Very Happy

_________________
Stuart Zickefoose

2011 Jetta Sportwagen TDi 6 speed manual

206-841-7324
[email protected]

thebusandus · Posted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 10:55 am Post subject:

I have to rewire the fans today, and I am going to have to drive to a steep incline to try and get any air bubbles out, I don't believe my system is circulating properly. I am using a OBDII ELM327 wifi reader to my Iphone, this reads directly off the ECU I believe.. I was tracking temps on there, 50 degree difference between what my phone was saying my temp was and what my 4 way gauge Busaru recommended was saying. I hit 215 and shut it down, fan didn't kick on so I will have to screw around with the relays a bit.

Replaced all the lines to the booster, it depresses well so I don't think the booster itself is shot. I am having a mechanic visit today to check out the brakes and at that point I will put in an order for what I need, I'm thinking at least a new MC, I have new rubber lines ready to install and the brakes (pad thickness) looks new, but rusty. The front discs are a bit stuck right now and the pedal takes about 10 seconds to return to the up position. I did see something interesting it looks like the 75 had two check valves in the booster system? The regular one and this one.

And the seats.. well I was lacking the correct tools to do this but it actually turned out well.

I only cut from the bottom, cut out about 2 inches. The seats are about 1/2" taller than the vanagon seats which were already to tall. The difference this makes is absolutely huge. If I were to do it again I'd get an electric knife.

The lazy boy

The Star Gazer

Driver side: The 75 didn't come with any useful mount on that side. The vanagon seats sort of fit on it, but they weren't actually secure. Again this can be avoided by buying a 76 Sad

So I welded in the Eurovan rails.

As you can see I also had to cut out a portion of the bulkhead to fit the seat adjustment.

But it came out very well. I'm pleased with these seats.

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2.2 Suby powered - 75 Westy - Rita

Panamerican Highway - 2014-2017

thebusandus · Posted: Fri Oct 31, 2014 2:14 pm Post subject:

I guess nothing can replace 30 years of experience. Took apart brake booster and fixed the issue, there was a sticky rubber gasket that was near impossible to slide up the shaft, this slides up and down with the booster, causing my brake pedal not to return. Calipers frozen, the parts bus I've been using has like new brakes (and everything else, must have been garaged it's whole life as its rust free and incredibly nice, well that was until it was T-boned and rolled Sad

. ) so I tested those calipers and the pistons are smooth. Going to clean it up and see how she rolls.
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2.2 Suby powered - 75 Westy - Rita

Panamerican Highway - 2014-2017

Stuartzickefoose · Posted: Sat Nov 01, 2014 7:41 pm Post subject:

so was the master cylinder was okay?
_________________
Stuart Zickefoose

2011 Jetta Sportwagen TDi 6 speed manual

206-841-7324
[email protected]

thebusandus · Posted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 12:24 pm Post subject:

Well, it was okay in the sense that it wasn't leaking brake fluid into the booster, and it wasn't allowing the pedal to continue down slowly, now if this changes when I actually drive it around and stop at a red light we will see. In the saga of nothing going right with this thing when I was attempting to bleed the brakes the bleed screw on the rear left cylinder sheared off. So back to the totaled bus we go. It's fun pulling parts out of a bus in the snow Rolling Eyes

Anyway, luckily he had just gotten new rear brakes so I replaced my brakes all the way around. Skeptical of the condition of the bearings though, how do you test the rears / service the rears without removing the hub? Time for me to order the HUB socket.

Been trying to work on many projects at once. Never have installed custom radiator tubes but I did not really think that one through, two of mine have collapsed as they aren't the perfect angle (I had gone through NAPA's selection to try and find ones that had close enough routing).. so I'm looking into some inner metal ringed coolant tubing. So far from what I've seen I have to get the exact length, which no one makes one short enough for the piece I have doing a 120 degree turn in 6 inches to mate the upper coolant hose coming off of my aluminum tube to the radiator. No pics of this but I am going back to the rubber store today, they had some very high strength flexible marine grade tubing which I think may work.

I did get a nice package from RJES (England, guess what shipping from England was less than I get charged from BusDepot or WolfWest JESUS!). He makes a throttle cable which I highly recommend so you aren't piecing something together.. Check it out.

The front fitting actually bolts in rather than that small (mine was nearly gone) curved piece of metal that fits through the leg here.

This is where the throttle cable outer housing connects to the tube that runs the length of the chassis above the front of the tranny. I removed my ground cable to install. I highly recommend doing this before reinstalling engine / tranny but it's not that bad once you get your old rubber tube off.

I apologize for the bad pic. I am also running the RJES Reverser, RJES throttle will allow you to have adjust ability with his reverser, genius! I also didn't have my cable actually hoooked up at this point so it looks loose. In all, 100% recommended. Order the RJES reverser, RJES throttle cable, and RJES coolant bypass for the heater to save your self some headache!! Hell throw in the Speed Sensor to, that was a piece of cake compared to what I've seen from small car ETC, RJES from what I'm experiencing is making the best stuff for this swap.

In other news, here are the new used calipers installed, hooray brakes!

You can see in the above pic I have some sloppy POR 15 coverage and it's not UV resistant so I sprayed 3M rubberized undercoating over it after hitting it with 400 grit. It looks great, but one can did not give me the coverage desired for all four wheel wells. May get another can but it's pretty expensive.

Fender Flares for spraying wheel wells.

Interior wise, I'm about to rip out the main cabinet here to install a propane heater in the bottom right part of it. New pics of that soon.

Thank god I have a crafty GF who wants to help out as much as possible. She recovered the seats and has done a lot of the interior work herself. She had a friend custom build that headbanger cabinet, he gave her a butterfly on it which we will have to eventually change Evil or Very Mad

The weather dropping into single digits where I live in Anchorage, it's definitely not inspiring me to drive this thing around. So before I do I'm installing this heater as well.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-991106/overview/

40,000 BTU's vs the subaru's 14,000 BTU's. All in one smaller unit, no brainer once I did the research, but definite props to all those who were able to install the Subaru's heater cleanly .. (Busaru, Nepenthe)
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2.2 Suby powered - 75 Westy - Rita

Panamerican Highway - 2014-2017

thebusandus · Posted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 11:30 am Post subject:

Thanks Tim. Heater just arrived, working on that today.

Tried to install new pads up front yesterday, these calipers are fucked as well OF COURSE.. the last owner evidently didn't use the backing pad so the pistons in the calipers spun, destroyed dust boots a bit and let rust in. How these seemed to operate well still is amazing. Ordered a rebuild kit, 2 day air.

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2.2 Suby powered - 75 Westy - Rita

Panamerican Highway - 2014-2017


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