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1965 variant S
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68moose
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Joined: April 03, 2009
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Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 06, 2014 8:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Like an idiot I had it laying down so it arched up. I pushed down on the clip to put it on the trim. Since the windshield had no support it cracked. I'm so angry at my carelessness. This car may be the death of me! Fighting the urge to put up the for sale sign! Hahaha
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68moose
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2014 12:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

my square has the original 6 volt transmission that needs to be rebuilt. Should I rebuild it back to original? Or, will a 67-68 beetle 12 volt transmission be a better option?

Any other options?
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 20, 2014 8:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

68moose wrote:
my square has the original 6 volt transmission that needs to be rebuilt. Should I rebuild it back to original? Or, will a 67-68 beetle 12 volt transmission be a better option?

Any other options?


The big question (without going back thru 9 pages) is Are you doing a 12 volt conversion to the car? If not, then rebuild the original trans. If you are doing a 12 volt conversion, then go ahead and get a 67-68 bug 12 volt trans, but keep your old type 3 only hockey stick (the shift rod in the nose of the trans).
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives."
Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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ataraxia
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 20, 2014 8:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bobnotch wrote:
68moose wrote:
my square has the original 6 volt transmission that needs to be rebuilt. Should I rebuild it back to original? Or, will a 67-68 beetle 12 volt transmission be a better option?

Any other options?


The big question (without going back thru 9 pages) is Are you doing a 12 volt conversion to the car? If not, then rebuild the original trans. If you are doing a 12 volt conversion, then go ahead and get a 67-68 bug 12 volt trans, but keep your old type 3 only hockey stick (the shift rod in the nose of the trans).


Aren't the flywheels different as well?
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 20, 2014 9:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ataraxia wrote:
Bobnotch wrote:
68moose wrote:
my square has the original 6 volt transmission that needs to be rebuilt. Should I rebuild it back to original? Or, will a 67-68 beetle 12 volt transmission be a better option?

Any other options?


The big question (without going back thru 9 pages) is Are you doing a 12 volt conversion to the car? If not, then rebuild the original trans. If you are doing a 12 volt conversion, then go ahead and get a 67-68 bug 12 volt trans, but keep your old type 3 only hockey stick (the shift rod in the nose of the trans).


Aren't the flywheels different as well?


Yes, that's part of the reason I asked him about doing a conversion. Like I said above, I didn't go back 9 pages to find out IF he was rebuilding the original engine (or if he had it), or was building a fresh engine, and doing a 12 volt conversion. The flywheel does make a difference though, as 6 volt flywheels (109 teeth) are more coarse than the slightly larger 12 volt flywheels (130 teeth I think). This is why you have to grind out the bell housing to install a 12 volt flywheel equipped engine.

You also have to keep the starter in mind too, as you can put 12 volts to a 6 volt starter, but you can't put 6 volts to a 12 volt starter and expect it to work. Shocked

There's a lot of thought that has to go into doing this stuff, as there are pluses and minuses involved.

edit, I just looked thru his gallery, and didn't see any engine pics. Also, all the pics of the car show the rear axles "unloaded".
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives."
Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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68moose
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 20, 2014 10:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have the original engine, which will get rebuilt and it's currently not in the car.

I haven't decided on the 12 volt yet. That's part of the reason I asked about the beetle tranny. Both motor and transmission will require a rebuild.

I may have a good deal on a working beetle transmission so I thought it could be a "better" "less expensive" option.
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 21, 2014 8:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

68moose wrote:
I have the original engine, which will get rebuilt and it's currently not in the car.

I haven't decided on the 12 volt yet. That's part of the reason I asked about the beetle tranny. Both motor and transmission will require a rebuild.

I may have a good deal on a working beetle transmission so I thought it could be a "better" "less expensive" option.


Well, I think you kind of answered your own question. You have to decide what you're going to do, before you can go any further.

If you decide to rebuild the engine, you can set it up for 12 volt and be commited to doing a 12 volt conversion.

Or you can rebuild it stock (6 volt), and go from there. That would give you the option to either stay 6 volt, or convert it to 12 volt at a later date.

Keep in mind that that IF you go that route, then you should to stick with the 6 volt transaxle.

I should mention that there are 12 to 6 volt conversion starter bushings available to allow the use of a later transaxle in an earlier car too. I've never seen them used, as most people go the other way when doing a conversion. Wink
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives."
Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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68moose
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 21, 2014 8:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, notch!

What is needed to convert the motor to 12v?
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 21, 2014 8:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

68moose wrote:
Thanks, notch!

What is needed to convert the motor to 12v?


The later fan shroud, 12 volt generator or alternator, 12 volt coil, 69mm "O" ring crankshaft and 12 volt flywheel (if done corectly).

Or use most of the 6 volt stuff, and have the generator re-wound for 12 volts (like Jimmy and a couple of others have done). Then you'd just need a 12 volt coil.

Or, you use the later fan shroud and 12 volt generator, 12 volt coil, and keep the rest of the engine 6 volt.

But, if you wanted to do it correctly, you'd also replace the choke(s) to 12 volt as well. Wink

As you can see, there are several ways to do it. Very Happy
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives."
Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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Dirty Hippie
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 21, 2014 9:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's awesome. I was going to buy this same squareback when "Weatherly" had it for sale six years or so ago. Unfortunately it didn't work out. Crying or Very sad Crazy, it still looks exactly the same, with the exception of what you've done to it. I will definitely be following this build.
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Calvatron
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 22, 2014 9:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

68moose wrote:
Thank you! What is everyone doing to fix/replace the dash?


In regards to this, I remember reading about a company that does dash restorations somewhere here in the Type 3 forum, but the cost was too much for most wallets to take. I've seen guys take black epoxy, and use it to fill in the cracks. Check out this thread. It's the route I took for my cracks:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=527338&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

As for the Center part with the holes, it's kinda hard to make it look decent with plastic-weld epoxy, and mine was almost completely gone so I made a patch for it. Sort of cheesy, but it's an idea.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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eyetzr Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 4:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Calvatron, nice "patch on the dash. Should work until the cash comes in.
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I think he meant "rare", as in "not well-done"
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68moose
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 11, 2014 1:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since the dashes have yet to be finished with no real eta in sight, I am moving on to other issues.

I bought a used pedal cluster with the updated gas pedal thing. I have to figure out how to take it all apart, get it cleaned up and lubed. Also, with the new pans I have no direction or example of where/how pedals attach to the pan.

I have searched around, but I have found minimal info.
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ataraxia
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 11, 2014 1:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The original pedal cluster for a 65 has the accelerator pedal mounting to the floor pan. There are at least three different set ups for accelerator pedals.

Post up a photo of what you've got so we know what you're working with.
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68moose
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 11, 2014 2:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought the cluster and accelerator pedal from you ataraxia!
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ataraxia
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 11, 2014 2:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

68moose wrote:
I bought the cluster and accelerator pedal from you ataraxia!


That was a while ago...I can't remember what I ate for lunch two days ago!

I may have the piece you need if I didn't send it to you the first time.
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68moose
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 11, 2014 2:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know the feeling.

This is what I have.

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ataraxia
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 12, 2014 6:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You have all of the right pieces.

The piece on the lower right of your picture is to replace the piece on your cluster.

Pull the pin for the clutch pedal on the left and then follow the rest of it (you'll see pins and clips to remove) until it's all apart. Clean it all up, lube the shaft and reassemble it on the piece to the right. It has the accelerator pedal bracket built in. The two nubs at the bottom hold the accelerator pedal via a pin with a spring (both are in the zip lock bag) that keeps the pedal in the right place.

Check the technical section for the parts book and the exploded view of how it's put together. Just make sure it's all very clean and lubed properly when you put it back together.

If you wind up discovering that you're missing a piece-let me know-I've probably got them and will send them for the cost of postage.

If you'd rather not take it apart, I think I have a 65 only bracket for the accelerator...that's a rather inexpensive piece but would save you the hassle of taking the pedal assembly apart. Just be sure it's clean and properly lubricated before you go this route. It would suck if you wound up having to take it all apart later because it's binding up.
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68moose
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 12, 2014 6:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, great. I was on right track in taking it apart. Thanks for the info!

Now I just have to figure out where on the floor they go. Since I had the pans replaced, I have no reference point.
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ataraxia
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 12, 2014 6:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

68moose wrote:
Ok, great. I was on right track in taking it apart. Thanks for the info!

Now I just have to figure out where on the floor they go. Since I had the pans replaced, I have no reference point.


There should only be two pieces touching the floor once you've swapped everything over: The brake pedal stop and the spring for the brake pedal. The accelerator pedal will be mounted to the replacement piece and won't touch the floor.
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