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Dr OnHolliday
Samba Member
Joined: May 11, 2012
Posts: 1215
Location: was Escondido now San Berdoo
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 Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 8:57 am Post subject: |
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Don't I see an alternator adapted on there on the right side?
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1965 Type 1 sunroof Baja / about 70k miles on self-rebuilt '74 1600 and counting / SP heads and aftermarket valve keepers / non-doghouse shroud with external cooler and filter / 1.5 qt extended sump / Weber 32/36 DFAV progressive carb / 009 dist with Pertronix / 1.25 ratio rockers and ball adjusters / 1.5" stainless steel J-pipes and carbon steel baja exhaust |
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stevensj13
Samba Member
Joined: October 03, 2011
Posts: 715
Location: Willow Spring, NC and Saugerties, NY
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| Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 9:01 am Post subject: |
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| Dr OnHolliday wrote: |
| Don't I see an alternator adapted on there on the right side? |
Yes, its a GM 90 amp, I explained it a few posts up but the general idea is the belt turns the stock generator to charge the beetles original electrical system and battery, and the GM alternator only charges a second, standalone battery that powers the lights, radio, subwoofers (yet to be installed), ect. It was kicking belts so he went back to a stock VW belt, I removed the whole contraption for now. I want to get an A/C kit pulley and run a second belt and tensioner setup for it separate from the stock belt.
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Current: '73 standard (yellow) '76 standard (rust/gold  )
Sold:
1967 Baja Bug
1973 Super (x2)
1971 Super
1968 bug on CJ 5 chassis w/ super swampers
1970 Baja |
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Dr OnHolliday
Samba Member
Joined: May 11, 2012
Posts: 1215
Location: was Escondido now San Berdoo
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| Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 10:29 pm Post subject: |
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The 2nd alt is totally unecessary complication and as you noted, not well executed....just delete it an install a good vw alt.
Frankly, the previous owner had some confused ideas IMHO and mixed extraneous useless bolt-ons in with the baja concept.
I'm not trying to dump on you, just offering my honest assessment. I hope you get it to what you want and will enjoy.
_________________
1965 Type 1 sunroof Baja / about 70k miles on self-rebuilt '74 1600 and counting / SP heads and aftermarket valve keepers / non-doghouse shroud with external cooler and filter / 1.5 qt extended sump / Weber 32/36 DFAV progressive carb / 009 dist with Pertronix / 1.25 ratio rockers and ball adjusters / 1.5" stainless steel J-pipes and carbon steel baja exhaust |
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stevensj13
Samba Member
Joined: October 03, 2011
Posts: 715
Location: Willow Spring, NC and Saugerties, NY
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| Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 6:30 pm Post subject: |
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| Dr OnHolliday wrote: |
The 2nd alt is totally unecessary complication and as you noted, not well executed....just delete it an install a good vw alt.
Frankly, the previous owner had some confused ideas IMHO and mixed extraneous useless bolt-ons in with the baja concept.
I'm not trying to dump on you, just offering my honest assessment. I hope you get it to what you want and will enjoy. |
I hear ya, I just like the idea of a 90 amp GM 1 wire alternator with 0 gauge wire supporting all the lights, subwoofers, amps, head unit, gauges, and whatnot rather than spending $260 for a 55 amp alternator conversion which IMO is not enough amps to support everything with room to grow. I don't wanna go pissing in the wind spending $260 on something that won't support my needs. Just found out today that the PO didn't torque the hubs down on the rear and noticed a fluid seeping from where the backing plate meets the axle tube. Here is what I found:
So on that note, what do I need to order to deal with this problem? the broken halfs can be pushed in slightly, and doing so releases more fluid. Is there a complete seal kit I can buy, and how much of a PITA is it to install? The axle bearings appear to fine. Does the gearbox share oil with the axle shaft tubes, and do I have to drain my trans fluid to avoid it peeing all over the place when I pull the cover and redo the seals?
_________________
Current: '73 standard (yellow) '76 standard (rust/gold )
Sold:
1967 Baja Bug
1973 Super (x2)
1971 Super
1968 bug on CJ 5 chassis w/ super swampers
1970 Baja |
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stevensj13
Samba Member
Joined: October 03, 2011
Posts: 715
Location: Willow Spring, NC and Saugerties, NY
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| Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 6:29 pm Post subject: |
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Alright guys, small update. Bought a new wheel cylinder for the passenger rear, since one side over-extends and the other side does nothing and it locks the rear brakes up on one side. Also ordered an axle-seal kit for both sides since both sides are leaking. Sometimes life kicks ya in the ass, eh? How do I check/refill the trans fluid? Forgive my ignorance, never had to do it before. On the upside I did get a 1971 oil bath filter I had from another car on this car and tuned the motor up a wee-bit. Seems to be running much better. I also wired up the generator and its charging well. All the lights, ect. are working. Once I get the wheel cylinder installed and brakes adjusted/bled and axle seals dealt with it'll be my daily driver (its my only registered car, so....).
_________________
Current: '73 standard (yellow) '76 standard (rust/gold )
Sold:
1967 Baja Bug
1973 Super (x2)
1971 Super
1968 bug on CJ 5 chassis w/ super swampers
1970 Baja |
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Dr OnHolliday
Samba Member
Joined: May 11, 2012
Posts: 1215
Location: was Escondido now San Berdoo
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| Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 6:22 pm Post subject: |
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Thing #1: you need at least one manual - I suggest John Muir's "idiot's Guide - How to Make Your VW Run Forever". It and various threads here on Samba show the transaxle fill plug on the driver's side, and the drain is (of course) on the bottom.
Also, you obviuosly can't rely on the previous owner having correctly assembled the rear axle bearing seals....
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1965 Type 1 sunroof Baja / about 70k miles on self-rebuilt '74 1600 and counting / SP heads and aftermarket valve keepers / non-doghouse shroud with external cooler and filter / 1.5 qt extended sump / Weber 32/36 DFAV progressive carb / 009 dist with Pertronix / 1.25 ratio rockers and ball adjusters / 1.5" stainless steel J-pipes and carbon steel baja exhaust |
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stevensj13
Samba Member
Joined: October 03, 2011
Posts: 715
Location: Willow Spring, NC and Saugerties, NY
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| Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 6:34 pm Post subject: |
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| Dr OnHolliday wrote: |
Thing #1: you need at least one manual - I suggest John Muir's "idiot's Guide - How to Make Your VW Run Forever". It and various threads here on Samba show the transaxle fill plug on the driver's side, and the drain is (of course) on the bottom.
Also, you obviuosly can't rely on the previous owner having correctly assembled the rear axle bearing seals.... |
I find that the majority of the problems I come across on these cars I can either figure out or find the answer to on the internet.
I ordered the rear axle seal kits, one for each side, when they get here I'm gonna re-seal both sides, install the new wheel cylinder, and top off the fluid. The car has coil-overs all around (yeah I'm not a fan either) so I'm gonna have to get those off in order to get the axle tubes up at a good enough angle as to not pour fluid all over the driveway.
_________________
Current: '73 standard (yellow) '76 standard (rust/gold )
Sold:
1967 Baja Bug
1973 Super (x2)
1971 Super
1968 bug on CJ 5 chassis w/ super swampers
1970 Baja |
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75smith
Samba Member
Joined: July 09, 2011
Posts: 2275
Location: NH
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| Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 6:46 pm Post subject: |
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| stevensj13 wrote: |
I find that the majority of the problems I come across on these cars I can either figure out or find the answer to on the internet.
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gonna suck when your on the side of the road and you can't figure it out, cant access the internet
that and I've come across "helpful" stuff that harms more then it helps
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My 1975 Beetle Build Updated 8-21-12
My engine build |
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stevensj13
Samba Member
Joined: October 03, 2011
Posts: 715
Location: Willow Spring, NC and Saugerties, NY
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| Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 7:03 pm Post subject: |
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| 75smith wrote: |
| stevensj13 wrote: |
I find that the majority of the problems I come across on these cars I can either figure out or find the answer to on the internet.
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gonna suck when your on the side of the road and you can't figure it out, cant access the internet
that and I've come across "helpful" stuff that harms more then it helps |
All a matter of opinion I suppose. I'm not some goofball who doesn't know his way around a car without someone holding his hand, and this isn't my first one. If you need a book to figure out how to get you home then you shouldn't be driving around in an old aircooled V-dub anyway, IMO. But I see where your coming from. These cars are simple though, and I've been that guy on the side of the road before, and I've always made it home.
_________________
Current: '73 standard (yellow) '76 standard (rust/gold )
Sold:
1967 Baja Bug
1973 Super (x2)
1971 Super
1968 bug on CJ 5 chassis w/ super swampers
1970 Baja |
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Bad_chopper
Samba Member
Joined: August 15, 2012
Posts: 295
Location: Portland, or
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| Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 10:41 pm Post subject: |
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Not tig be a dick...but if you had at least a chiltons or hanes manual most of these questions you have would not need to be answered, plus you would have reference pictures for how things go together.
I work on heavy equipment for a living and as a tech we reference manuals on a daily basis. to say you don't need a manual because you know what your doing Is just setting yourself up for failure.
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my build page http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=536267 |
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stevensj13
Samba Member
Joined: October 03, 2011
Posts: 715
Location: Willow Spring, NC and Saugerties, NY
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| Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 10:50 pm Post subject: |
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| Bad_chopper wrote: |
Not tig be a dick...but if you had at least a chiltons or hanes manual most of these questions you have would not need to be answered, plus you would have reference pictures for how things go together.
I work on heavy equipment for a living and as a tech we reference manuals on a daily basis. to say you don't need a manual because you know what your doing Is just setting yourself up for failure. |
I'd really, really, appreciate it if you guys could not turn my build thread into an argument on the importance of manuals. I'm pretty sure thats one of the most covered topics on this site, if you want to talk about manuals please take it elsewhere. I've stated my opinion on them, if you agree, great, if not, I respect your opinion. I never claimed to know everything about everything, and that I never need a source of information to do things. For me, working on my cars at home-base here with easy access to my laptop that has been plenty sufficient. If I ever take up heavy-equipment repair I'll remember to stock up on literature.
_________________
Current: '73 standard (yellow) '76 standard (rust/gold )
Sold:
1967 Baja Bug
1973 Super (x2)
1971 Super
1968 bug on CJ 5 chassis w/ super swampers
1970 Baja |
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stevensj13
Samba Member
Joined: October 03, 2011
Posts: 715
Location: Willow Spring, NC and Saugerties, NY
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| Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 2:28 pm Post subject: |
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Bought all new parking brake hardware because the PO didn't assemble it correctly and some stuff got bent/went missing before I owned it. So, once my seal kits come in I'll tear everything down, redo the seals, replace 1 wheel cylinder, and then fix the parking brake. If I put it all together and top off the fluid only to find out it leaks then I may just kill myself at that point
_________________
Current: '73 standard (yellow) '76 standard (rust/gold )
Sold:
1967 Baja Bug
1973 Super (x2)
1971 Super
1968 bug on CJ 5 chassis w/ super swampers
1970 Baja |
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stevensj13
Samba Member
Joined: October 03, 2011
Posts: 715
Location: Willow Spring, NC and Saugerties, NY
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| Posted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 8:45 pm Post subject: |
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So I replaced all the seals and whatnot on one wheel, seems to be doing okay. I also replaced my one wheel cylinder in the back and my brakes aren't locking anymore so thats good. I bled them this morning and got 3 out of 4 but the damn front passenger side bleed screw snapped. I got the brakes working adequetly and drove it around town a bit. Was doing great until it died and stalled out. After about a little fiddling and some starting fluid to no avail I popped the distributor cap off and immediatly found the problem. One of the previous owners didn't tighten the distributor clamp and so the distributor had pulled up out of the case a bit and the gears were no longer meshing. The timing was way off so I just towed it home, popped in my spare distributor with the Pertronix unit in it and now she runs mint again. Tomorrow I'm replacing the front-passenger wheel cylinder and rebleeding/readjusting all the brakes, and fixing a leaking brake resivour line hopefully fixing my brake problems which seem to be entirely endless  . Heres a couple pics I snapped today after the first successful test drive:
_________________
Current: '73 standard (yellow) '76 standard (rust/gold )
Sold:
1967 Baja Bug
1973 Super (x2)
1971 Super
1968 bug on CJ 5 chassis w/ super swampers
1970 Baja |
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BUGGUTZ
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2007
Posts: 537
Location: Luzerne Mich
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| Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 4:45 am Post subject: |
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| What are those hubcaps from? They remind me of the Stomper toys that could ride up on two wheels. I likem! |
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stevensj13
Samba Member
Joined: October 03, 2011
Posts: 715
Location: Willow Spring, NC and Saugerties, NY
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| Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 6:16 am Post subject: |
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| BUGGUTZ wrote: |
| What are those hubcaps from? They remind me of the Stomper toys that could ride up on two wheels. I likem! |
They are actually from an AMC Hornet haha. I think they suit the car well.
_________________
Current: '73 standard (yellow) '76 standard (rust/gold )
Sold:
1967 Baja Bug
1973 Super (x2)
1971 Super
1968 bug on CJ 5 chassis w/ super swampers
1970 Baja |
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stevensj13
Samba Member
Joined: October 03, 2011
Posts: 715
Location: Willow Spring, NC and Saugerties, NY
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| Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 5:14 pm Post subject: |
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So today I got the front in the air, installed my new front wheel cylinder only to find that my brakes would no longer bleed and I had no pedal pressure. One side of the wheel cylinder just over-extended and the other side did nothing. Slapped the old one with the snapped bleeder screw in, put it all back together and bled the system and they work fine. The fronts appear to be properly adjusted however I need to adjust the rear brakes. Atleast its driveable again.
Here it is with no hubcaps. I kinda like the deep dish black wheel look and the blue hubs match my blue engine tin. Might keep it like that for a while, plus hubcaps are easily stolen and easily damaged off road anyway.
_________________
Current: '73 standard (yellow) '76 standard (rust/gold )
Sold:
1967 Baja Bug
1973 Super (x2)
1971 Super
1968 bug on CJ 5 chassis w/ super swampers
1970 Baja |
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Bashr52
Samba Member
Joined: July 16, 2006
Posts: 5666
Location: On an island in VA
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| Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 8:32 am Post subject: |
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| Sounds like at least one new wheel cylinder is in your future, and I'd do all 4 rubber lines as well. |
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stevensj13
Samba Member
Joined: October 03, 2011
Posts: 715
Location: Willow Spring, NC and Saugerties, NY
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| Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 8:53 am Post subject: |
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| Bashr52 wrote: |
| Sounds like at least one new wheel cylinder is in your future, and I'd do all 4 rubber lines as well. |
Rubber lines are good, rear wheel cylinders are new. Master cylinder is new. other than the 1 front with the broken bleeder screw there isn't really a reason to replace any more of them. I need to adjust the rear pads though, atleast the axles don't appear to be leaking anymore. Now my focus is on the steering slop, its pretty sketchy on windy days (like every day for the last three weeks) so I've really gotta address that issue. two of the four tie rod bushings have dry rotted boots however there is no play in the tie rods or wheel bearings or ball joints, yet anyway but they will be replaced. The steering coupler was replaced with a urethane bushing and theres no slop there, no slop in the column itself, however there is quit a bit of slop in the input shaft of the steering box before anything actually happens with the output shaft. The adjustment screw is backed out pretty far, not sure if I should mess with that or not.
_________________
Current: '73 standard (yellow) '76 standard (rust/gold )
Sold:
1967 Baja Bug
1973 Super (x2)
1971 Super
1968 bug on CJ 5 chassis w/ super swampers
1970 Baja |
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Island Bumpkin
Samba Member
Joined: April 22, 2013
Posts: 332
Location: Whidbey Island, Washington
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| Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 8:58 am Post subject: |
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Looks like a nice project to start with. Love the louvered window shade.
Maybe it's just me, but when it comes to brake stuff I like to do everything in pairs. One wheel cylinder goes bad? Replace both sides. If they've both been in there the same time, and one goes bad, who's to say the other isn't close behind? For me, it's a little piece of mind.
If you want to keep the GM alternator, I'd make a bracket that mounts to the body or somewhere more solid than the engine tin. I'd also recommend getting an A/C pulley instead of using a longer belt and running it around the gen pulley as well. Since the gen belt is also responsible for cooling the engine, it's important that it has proper surface area of belt going around it.
-Jameson
_________________
Vehicles:
1971 Baja Bug, 1600dp, summer/winter/summer project
Follow my progress!
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=556996
1988 F250 SC/LB 7.3 IDI/ZF5/Dana 50 front, Sterling 10.25 rear. 4" lift -Daily-
1976 F250 Reg cab/LB Stock 300/NP435/NP205 -Long Term Project-
| Axitech wrote: |
| My rail is basically my "I can't take civilized life anymore this month, so I'm going camping" vehicle |
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stevensj13
Samba Member
Joined: October 03, 2011
Posts: 715
Location: Willow Spring, NC and Saugerties, NY
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| Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 9:02 am Post subject: |
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| Island Bumpkin wrote: |
Looks like a nice project to start with. Love the louvered window shade.
Maybe it's just me, but when it comes to brake stuff I like to do everything in pairs. One wheel cylinder goes bad? Replace both sides. If they've both been in there the same time, and one goes bad, who's to say the other isn't close behind? For me, it's a little piece of mind.
If you want to keep the GM alternator, I'd make a bracket that mounts to the body or somewhere more solid than the engine tin. I'd also recommend getting an A/C pulley instead of using a longer belt and running it around the gen pulley as well. Since the gen belt is also responsible for cooling the engine, it's important that it has proper surface area of belt going around it.
-Jameson |
Thanks! The window shades are pretty nice for looks but it does affect visibility a bit. They will stay on until it becomes a problem though
Both rear cylinders are new, however one was faulty and I replaced it, both are functioning properly now though.
Yeah like I said earlier I yanked the GM alt for now and was planning on re-mounting and mentioned using an A/C pulley with a seperate belt. Generator pulley needs as much contact as possible, I won't risk the cooling of this engine. Currently I don't have any sound system or lights wired in to the stock harness so the gen will be sufficient until I get this thing reliable and worry about extras.
_________________
Current: '73 standard (yellow) '76 standard (rust/gold )
Sold:
1967 Baja Bug
1973 Super (x2)
1971 Super
1968 bug on CJ 5 chassis w/ super swampers
1970 Baja |
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