| Author |
Message |
Doug C
Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2013
Posts: 255
|
 Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2014 7:42 pm Post subject: Preval Sprayer system to shoot Epoxy Primer ? |
 |
|
I have a gallon of 1:1 Epoxy primer sitting in my garage waiting to be used - but meanwhile my project car is sitting outdoors. There are some areas that are stripped down while work is being done - pieces being cut off and replacement pieces welded into place. I need to prime this stuff as I go so I can stop the surface rust that I keep battling. These are relatively small area and I hate to load up the paint gun and spray such small amounts (my temporary booth isn't ready, gun clean up is a bit of a chore, etc.). So I was wondering if the Preval spray system ( http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/preval.aspx ) may be able to shoot epoxy primer? I really like using these sprayers, they are so convenient and spray really well but I don't know if epoxy primer would be too thick. What if the primer is thinned down really well (as is done when using it as a sealer) - would that still be effective at staving off moisture and rust? This would only be until I can get around to shooting the whole car in the correct consistency.
Doug C |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
bubblehead
Samba Member
Joined: February 15, 2002
Posts: 523
|
| Posted: Sun Mar 23, 2014 6:23 am Post subject: |
|
|
You could just spray your repairs with rustoleum/krylon paint to hold off the rust. It's cheap and convenient. When you are done with all the metal work, strip it down, degrease/condition the metal and spray your epoxy.
_________________
| Lind wrote: |
| I think that buses attract weirdos that do weird things in weird places. |
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22413
Location: Kimball, Mi
|
| Posted: Sun Mar 23, 2014 9:00 am Post subject: Re: Preval Sprayer system to shoot Epoxy Primer ? |
|
|
| Doug C wrote: |
I have a gallon of 1:1 Epoxy primer sitting in my garage waiting to be used - but meanwhile my project car is sitting outdoors. There are some areas that are stripped down while work is being done - pieces being cut off and replacement pieces welded into place. I need to prime this stuff as I go so I can stop the surface rust that I keep battling. These are relatively small area and I hate to load up the paint gun and spray such small amounts (my temporary booth isn't ready, gun clean up is a bit of a chore, etc.). So I was wondering if the Preval spray system ( http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/preval.aspx ) may be able to shoot epoxy primer? I really like using these sprayers, they are so convenient and spray really well but I don't know if epoxy primer would be too thick. What if the primer is thinned down really well (as is done when using it as a sealer) - would that still be effective at staving off moisture and rust? This would only be until I can get around to shooting the whole car in the correct consistency.
Doug C |
You could probably reduce the epoxy to do the job you want (limit the reducing to less than 10%), but you'd have to keep it out of the sun (primer doesn't have any UV protection), and it'll start chalking. Yes, I've seen and had it happen before, that's why I'm mentioning it.
I don't know IF you can reduce it enough to use the "preval" system or not, since those little cans of air aren't very big (limited air supply).
For smaller spots, I just use a touch up gun (siphon feed from Harbour Freight), as I can mix up small batches (8 onces or less), and shoot it, and clean up the gun for next time.
Keep in mind that some epoxy primers (like PPG's DP series) have a 7 day working time, and have to be re-sanded after 7 days, and re-sprayed, before you can do anything with them. This can get expensive, IF you're not staying after it on a regular basis.  Personally, I think of it as cheap insurance, and I'm usually working 1 side or a section at a time (sometimes 1 side will be in epoxy, while I'm working the other side), then I'll go over the entire car again before painting (putting on a fresh coat of epoxy (as a seal coat)).
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
UreKem Paints
Samba Member
Joined: March 23, 2014
Posts: 26
Location: Perkinston, Mississippi
|
| Posted: Sun Mar 23, 2014 11:35 am Post subject: |
|
|
| I would expect you could do that but like a previous poster pointed out you would have t o reduce it a bit more. Sounds like a lot of work though. You would have to clean the jar and sprayer after each use running solvent through the sprayer to clean out the feed tube and tip. Might be easier to use a cheap spray bomb to just to protect it till you can do the whole thing then sand all that spray bomb off prior to painting. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
jspbtown
Samba Member
Joined: January 27, 2004
Posts: 5156
|
| Posted: Sun Mar 23, 2014 12:39 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I agree. I have used those prevail sprayers to even shoot single stage paint. So they will likely shoot your primer.
On my old Manx I had hoped to buy chrome shocks but they were not available so I used one of the Prevail systems to shoot 4 shocks with a single stage metallic paint. They came out good (for under carriage detailed parts).
The down side is they are basically one and done. Its very very hard to get them clean enough to use over and over. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Doug C
Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2013
Posts: 255
|
| Posted: Sun Mar 23, 2014 10:44 pm Post subject: |
|
|
thanks for the replies guys..
I am not wanting to use a random spray can primer from the local FAPS for a couple reasons: it would make more work (I'll just need to sand it all back off before shooting the entire car in epoxy in a few short weeks), also I don't need to spend the extra money on spray primer when I have plenty of epoxy sitting on the shelf.
I'm ok with re-scuffing (and shooting) the epoxy IF it starts to chalk up, it's not as much trouble as trying to strip rustoleum off completely. I expect to shoot the entire car in about a month or less.
HERE'S AN IDEA - any reason Epoxy primer couldn't be rolled on the flat areas and brushed into the tight corners? That way I could go full strength with it. I see some whole cars are rolled (topcoats) that don't look that bad. I would be spraying primer and color onto the entire car later of course, as I mentioned. Any obvious drawback?
Doug C |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
jspbtown
Samba Member
Joined: January 27, 2004
Posts: 5156
|
| Posted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 6:48 am Post subject: |
|
|
The only downside I would see is that it would not be flat and its a pain in the butt to sand when cured.
I too would not use any spray bomb primer. Its way to porous and will rust up on you right away.
If you can't spray the epoxy then I personally would use some rustoleum. You would be surprised how easy it will fall off without a good primed base. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
supersuk
Samba Member
Joined: December 20, 2010
Posts: 958
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
|
| Posted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 11:01 am Post subject: |
|
|
I'd avoid the rustoleum paint if you can. If you don't remove it completely, it will possibly react to the epoxy that you're laying down and cause adhesion issues. I've had that happen to me before.
_________________
68 Fastback Build: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=5396323#5396323 |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22413
Location: Kimball, Mi
|
| Posted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 7:35 am Post subject: |
|
|
| Doug C wrote: |
thanks for the replies guys..
I am not wanting to use a random spray can primer from the local FAPS for a couple reasons: it would make more work (I'll just need to sand it all back off before shooting the entire car in epoxy in a few short weeks), also I don't need to spend the extra money on spray primer when I have plenty of epoxy sitting on the shelf.
I'm ok with re-scuffing (and shooting) the epoxy IF it starts to chalk up, it's not as much trouble as trying to strip rustoleum off completely. I expect to shoot the entire car in about a month or less.
HERE'S AN IDEA - any reason Epoxy primer couldn't be rolled on the flat areas and brushed into the tight corners? That way I could go full strength with it. I see some whole cars are rolled (topcoats) that don't look that bad. I would be spraying primer and color onto the entire car later of course, as I mentioned. Any obvious drawback?
Doug C |
I wouldn't roll it or brush it on. I don't know what it is about epoxy, but from previous experience it seems like it really needs to be atomized for it to work properly (yes I've tried it before).
Personally I'd just go to Harbour Freight and pick up a cheap siphon feed touch up gun, and use that. Nobody ever said doing body work was cheap, and that's just 1 expense you have to deal with (tools). 
Look at the material sheet you have for your epoxy, and find out what the working time is between coats, and when you have to re-spray it again is. That will help you decide what you're going to do.
I realize you're also trying to cut some labor on this, as you're asking for alturnatives to loading the gun and spraying, along with having to do the clean up afterward. However, this IS all parts of doing the job, and it's not cheap, or labor saving. There are some things that have to be done, whether you want to or not. And right now, it's either sealing the bare metal up with epoxy, or leaving it bare and re-sanding new rust, or just tossing some Krylon on, and using laquer thinner to wipe it off when you're ready to get serious about doing the job.  Any of these will work, and it's just part of the job.
Keep in mind that a touch up gun can be used inside the wheel well openings where you can't always fit a standard gun. This might help you decide to purchase one.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Doug C
Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2013
Posts: 255
|
| Posted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 2:37 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| Bobnotch wrote: |
..I wouldn't roll it or brush it on. I don't know what it is about epoxy, but from previous experience it seems like it really needs to be atomized for it to work properly (yes I've tried it before).
Personally I'd just go to Harbour Freight and pick up a cheap siphon feed touch up gun, and use that. |
Good to know epoxy doesn't necessarily take to being rolled on, that info might have saved me some hassle. As for the harbor freight gun.. I already have a new (never used) siphon feed gun from them that I bought to use for primer only and when the entire car was ready for it. So yes I can just use that for the small areas too. Was just trying to avoid having to stop my welding and grinding progress to learn a new gun and deal with multiple unnecessary gun clean ups I guess. But you're right - it's part of the job.
I sort of challenged myself to do my own restoration (start to finish) and do the best job possible while spending the least amount of money possible. This car was a $500 salvage titled car when I got it and it looked the part. I have most of the rear section and quarter panels removed, fixing BS half-@#% repairs from the PO.
Also trying to sell our house late spring/early summer and have a ton to do on it too. I want to have the car done first (at least body/paint), so that factors into my looking for shortcuts when I can. Thanks for the advice.
Doug C |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
PrevalTech
Samba Member
Joined: April 08, 2014
Posts: 1
|
| Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2014 9:33 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Hi Doug,
The Preval Sprayer can be used with almost all liquids and paints, including latex, laquer, water-borne, solvent-based and clear coats. The Sprayer is also ideal for atomizing primers, dyes, 2-component chemicals, tanning solutions and stains. As mentioned in the forum, the key is thinning the primer. You can use a Preval Sprayer in place of a professional spray system on automobiles, boats, helicopters, or pretty much anything you can imagine!
Good luck and we look forward to seeing the result!
Preval Team |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
dnielsen
Samba Member
Joined: June 19, 2005
Posts: 80
Location: Phoenix, AZ
|
| Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 5:50 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| I've brushed on and rolled on the SPI epoxy primer with no problem. It takes longer than spraying and doesn't go on as smooth but it does lay down pretty flat and cures fine. It would be ok in some places you won't see later, but I wouldn't do it on an exterior body panel just because of the time it would take to sand it flat later. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
