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vwflat4driver Samba Member
Joined: June 04, 2014 Posts: 6 Location: Napa Ca.
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Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2014 6:03 pm Post subject: |
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Id recommend just staying with stock items. im going to assume your on a tight tight budget aka no money but time and skill. buy a box kit for the rear irs trailing arm or just stay swing axle. you can get some width and some minor travel increase buy installing type 3 axles and tubes if you like. your gonna tear up your front ball joints so I recommend installing heavy duty bump stops up front for up and down travel. get a mid mount transmission kit or buy the trans strap kit to hold the trans in place. buy the class 11 roll cage that are available from most vendors. its .095 wall and not really race legal but it is safer than nothing and is premade for the car. buy some decent shocks. id use bilstien 6100 series but it will cost you. I hear kyb gas adjusts work but I cant confirm that. ive seen bug eye Baja kits with the 3 inch body lift and they look great and add some clearance. ive also seen the same lift on a stock fendered bug to with big tires and it was pretty nice as well. your suspension bushing will get tore up pretty quick. ive been told that delrin is superior to urethane in this application. im assuming your stock tranny has the 4.37 r/p and it recommended not to exceed 31/10.50 tires. if your tranny is original you may have problems with brass shift fork. any tranny you chose needs to have an h/d side cover and h/d 4 spider diff minimum to just survive.. other than those basics run that badboy till it breaks. as others have said youd be surprised how durable stock really is |
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dirtkeeper Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2008 Posts: 3200 Location: Left of everywhere
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Posted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 5:43 am Post subject: Re: seats |
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wyattsdad wrote: |
On a side note, what suspension seat is going to give me the most leg room for rear passengers? maybe suspension seats built for side by sides? Had some small corbeaus in an old mini cooper but too tight width. Although i do enjoy the 4 inches of travel in my stock seats. |
i'd concentrate on driver comfort......back seat leg room will suck anyway about it |
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wyattsdad Samba Member
Joined: March 14, 2014 Posts: 79 Location: Coventry CT
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Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 5:44 am Post subject: Rear fenders |
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I have to lose my rear fenders, the profile comes down too fast. I have been told to use a set of stock front fenders cut up for the rear. They can be had around here for 50 bucks a pair. Budget is not much of a concern. I have gone through faq's google, etc... cant find info, or pics of this. Can someone show me a pics of this? thanks |
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Mal evolent Samba Member
Joined: March 31, 2009 Posts: 2912 Location: San Antonio, Nuevo Mexico
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dustymojave Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2007 Posts: 5802 Location: Lake LA, Mojave Desert, SoCal
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Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 11:09 pm Post subject: |
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Does CT require annual vehicle inspections? Is tire coverage a ticket issue?
Probably the simplest deal for you is to replace those fenders with the ones from EMPI (made by Mark V in Nevada) that are flatter profile. They look about the same otherwise and will match the front kit.
http://www.markvfiberglass.com/catalog/kits/kitK103.html
Same as on my car
And you won't have to worry about them rusting out. _________________ Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet. |
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wyattsdad Samba Member
Joined: March 14, 2014 Posts: 79 Location: Coventry CT
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Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2015 5:20 pm Post subject: finally back in the garage to work on it again |
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wyattsdad Samba Member
Joined: March 14, 2014 Posts: 79 Location: Coventry CT
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Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2015 5:21 pm Post subject: |
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the last somewhat complete before shot. Now have a pile of tubing and a bender and a nice warm garage. |
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wyattsdad Samba Member
Joined: March 14, 2014 Posts: 79 Location: Coventry CT
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Posted: Sat Jan 17, 2015 4:42 am Post subject: |
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step 1 is to put 2x4 tubing in for rock sliders. Thin wall. This will be the base for tube/ cage work. Certainly un-conventional from what ive seen on here, but in new england there is a lot of ledge! I dont want to have to buy another set of convertible doors. Then some tree bars welded on those to kick out to edge of tire, for the necessary tight trail tree pin turns. I understand body will no longer come off, but its a woods machine and seems to be best bet for needed protection. Could be the toyota frame of mind mixing with the vw? |
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wyattsdad Samba Member
Joined: March 14, 2014 Posts: 79 Location: Coventry CT
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Posted: Sat Jan 17, 2015 4:43 am Post subject: |
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the rocker area now is wood and fiberglass now |
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qwerty8669 Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2012 Posts: 231 Location: kentucky
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wyattsdad Samba Member
Joined: March 14, 2014 Posts: 79 Location: Coventry CT
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Posted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 9:10 am Post subject: |
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wood fiberglass and bondo |
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wyattsdad Samba Member
Joined: March 14, 2014 Posts: 79 Location: Coventry CT
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Posted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 9:12 am Post subject: |
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wood fiberglass and bondo removed |
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wyattsdad Samba Member
Joined: March 14, 2014 Posts: 79 Location: Coventry CT
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Posted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 9:14 am Post subject: |
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cleaned up metal, cut back to washers on pan bolts |
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wyattsdad Samba Member
Joined: March 14, 2014 Posts: 79 Location: Coventry CT
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Posted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 9:27 am Post subject: |
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The proposed rocker/ rock slider, leaving the inside skin of heater channel alone, which is in good condition. I will weld tubing legs onto this 2x4 tube and drill holes through inner heater channel skin and weld to tunnel. In the same location of roll cage to tie down on to. After removing the pans i can weld heater channel right to this 2x4 and still use factory pans. to remove body i would have to cut the legs off which is no big deal. |
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dustymojave Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2007 Posts: 5802 Location: Lake LA, Mojave Desert, SoCal
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Posted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 1:51 pm Post subject: |
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In some respects, it seems like a Mickey Mouse patch...
But in many ways I think it's a good idea with sound engineering.
Suggestion:
- Make sure the 1/4 panel and door can still drain when done. The Factory had small holes in the bottom of the door and the 1/4 for this purpose. Water let out will not cause rust. Water held in will do great damage.
You might consider holes to the outboard in the bottom of the 1/4 panel on top of the rectangular tube rather than into the tube. You don't want to rust the inside of the tube. _________________ Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet. |
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wyattsdad Samba Member
Joined: March 14, 2014 Posts: 79 Location: Coventry CT
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Posted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 3:41 pm Post subject: |
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It has a 1/2 gap from bottom of rear quarter and across door. Especially being a convertible i may over do it with drains in doors and quarters. I . know mickey mouse was a horrible mechanic, but some things worked out. I also back banded the pinch weld on the 1/4 panel all the way to the front with a 1/2 strip of band iron. For rigidity and to maintain the 1/2 gap. Stitch welded to inside of heater channel and spot welded/ pinch welded throughout. I thought about this forever and this seemed to be the most economical. When i pull the pans i may reinforce the bottom of the heater channel where the pan bolts on. Which will also make for a sturdier weld against the tube. IN reality i can make the slider supports to the tunnel bolt on. That I would do after i ever take the body off. |
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warwgn Samba Member
Joined: November 18, 2014 Posts: 260 Location: central Mississippi
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Posted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 9:16 am Post subject: |
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I see where your going and like the Idea, some good slider will add lots of support and protection!! Good job. |
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RossRinSD Samba Member
Joined: December 27, 2011 Posts: 6 Location: Fallbrook, CA
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Posted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 7:09 pm Post subject: |
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dowha wrote: |
A 3" body Lift Kit should take care of the tire rubbing and give it a higher stance...
If you do a lift kit, use gaskets on both the top & the bottom of the kit to seal out dust & H2O.. |
Is a body lift a legit thing for a baja? I always tried to stay away from them when lifting trucks. I got everything of mine bolted together and the wheels and tires I plan on running, but the fenders rub something awful and my rear swingarm axle is all cambered out.
I figured the body lift is an inexpensive way to gain some clearance.
Does it screw with the steering shaft angle? Are a lot of guys doing body lifts??
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DHale_510 Samba Member
Joined: August 27, 2010 Posts: 378 Location: Nampa Idaho
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Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 8:07 am Post subject: |
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Body lifts have faded in popularity. They may or may not still be made. They work but are a pretty big deal to install and you really feel like you're in a bathtub then. Remounting the rear fenders higher is pretty common now and a lot easier. Maybe it could be done with steelies.
Dennis |
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wyattsdad Samba Member
Joined: March 14, 2014 Posts: 79 Location: Coventry CT
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Posted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 8:10 am Post subject: |
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Working on roll cage right now. What did everybody do about window cranks? Front and rear? Are they movable? Really don't want to extend them. |
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