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90.5's or 94's?
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Big Z
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 1:42 pm    Post subject: 90.5's or 94's? Reply with quote

I am currently building a "daily driver" Bug and I am trying to decide which engine to build. I am looking for something with as much power as I can get while still using the 69 stroke and standard Dual Port heads and still be reliable.

Some say go with the 94's and others say go with the 90.5's. I am not sure which way to go. ANY good technical suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated. Question Question Question Question

THANKS!!!
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fivelugshortaxle
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 1:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Go in between. Get the thick walled 92's. Meatier than stock 85.5's. A nice 1835.
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VWCOOL
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 3:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Go straight for 94s as - as you realise - you get the biggest capacity and best breathing over the standard-stroke crank. A well-built torquey 1916 is a joy to drive as a 'daily' car. A modest-spec 1916 will idle at 800rpm, put 65-70hp to the treads, run high-16s in the 1/4-mile (in a standard 1302/03) and do better than 10km/litre on a trip.

The whole '94s are bad..mmmkay' discussion is little more than marketing myth. 94s will cope with lots of boost so will present no issues N/A on the street.

I have several 1916 engines, track/drags and street, with the oldest street motor having components (rods, crank, cam, P&Cs etc) that date from 1985. It has travelled so that I have forgotten. At least 150,000 miles. These pots still throw 75HP to the chassis dyno

Your next challenge is to find a competent machinist!

Hope this helps


Last edited by VWCOOL on Wed Apr 02, 2014 5:04 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 3:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a 1915 dude.

With stock heads, stock heater boxes, single carb, dual Kads or ICT's go with 90.5 pistons.

40x35.5 heads and dual IDF's go with the 94's

No matter what anybody tells you the 90.5 pistons run cooler and last longer then the 94's.

You could run the thick wall 92's with any of the above.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 3:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

94's!

if you're worried about heat, knock the CR back a bit
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 4:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just measured an old 94mm cima wall at .140"ish, then measured an AA 90.5,,,,,,,,, right at 140ish. Go with 94's
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 4:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vwracerdave wrote:
It's a 1915 dude.


No matter what anybody tells you the 90.5 pistons run cooler and last longer then the 94's.

.


I would love to see some actual testing/evidence/data - or any actual metallurgical or engineering reason - to support this (unfortunately, widely held) opinion.

There is no-where else in the automotive performance world (Chev/GM/Holden, Ford, Toyota/Lexus etc) where I have found bore size to be a primary factor or influence on heat-shedding ability of an engine... or for such an opinion/situation to be even be discussed!

I am aware of dozens of 1916s (including my own) with in excess of 100,000 (some more than 200,000km) on them with nothing more than routine servicing in daily driver vehicles. I also know of 94-bore engines that run 15psi+ boost and deliver 250+HP to the tyres.

Really... where does this 'thick wall' theory come from, if not the Marketing Dept?!
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It may be true that the 90.5's may last a LITTLE longer, but life is short, go for the 94's. And if you can, get some porting work done to the heads.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 7:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

VWCOOL wrote:
vwracerdave wrote:
It's a 1915 dude.


No matter what anybody tells you the 90.5 pistons run cooler and last longer then the 94's.

.


I would love to see some actual testing/evidence/data - or any actual metallurgical or engineering reason - to support this (unfortunately, widely held) opinion.

There is no-where else in the automotive performance world (Chev/GM/Holden, Ford, Toyota/Lexus etc) where I have found bore size to be a primary factor or influence on heat-shedding ability of an engine... or for such an opinion/situation to be even be discussed!

I am aware of dozens of 1916s (including my own) with in excess of 100,000 (some more than 200,000km) on them with nothing more than routine servicing in daily driver vehicles. I also know of 94-bore engines that run 15psi+ boost and deliver 250+HP to the tyres.

Really... where does this 'thick wall' theory come from, if not the Marketing Dept?!


As far as the cylinder wall theory goes, I believe the thicker the cylinder wall, the less chance it has of distorting under extreme temperatures. In any regular daily driving engine, I doubt this is even an issue. I can't understand how thinner walls equal higher temps. Not saying that it does or doesn't. I just don't understand.

I know of one person who has a little over 100,000 miles on a low RPM 1915.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

VWCOOL wrote:
I would love to see some actual testing/evidence/data - or any actual metallurgical or engineering reason - to support this (unfortunately, widely held) opinion.

There is no-where else in the automotive performance world (Chev/GM/Holden, Ford, Toyota/Lexus etc)


it's a 1915 dude
94x94x69x.0031416 = 1915.38

Believe whatever you want, and it has absolutely nothing to do with metallurgy. Berg did the testing 30 years ago but since he has passed away everybody just tossed his info in the trash. You can't compare a water cooled engine to a VW. The 94's do run hotter because they have less cooling fins then a stock 85.5. The 94's must fit under the stock 85.5 cooling tins so there is less outside diameter cooling fin surface area to cool them. Sit a 85.5 & 94 jug side by side and it's obvious the 94 jugs have less cooling fins then the 85.5. Also the larger the piston the more they rock inside the cylinder causing more wear and a shorter life. Larger ring diameters have more surface area causing more friction and more heat.

I'm not saying 94's run too hot for use in an engine, I have a 1915, 2165, and a 2276. I am saying 90.5's run cooler and last longer.

Run 94's in a Bug, Ghia, Thing, or Buggy if you want, but I will always suggest 90.5's in a Type II or Type III.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 12:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

vwracerdave wrote:
VWCOOL wrote:
I would love to see some actual testing/evidence/data - or any actual metallurgical or engineering reason - to support this (unfortunately, widely held) opinion.

There is no-where else in the automotive performance world (Chev/GM/Holden, Ford, Toyota/Lexus etc)


it's a 1915 dude
94x94x69x.0031416 = 1915.38



Run 94's in a Bug, Ghia, Thing, or Buggy if you want, but I will always suggest 90.5's in a Type II or Type III.


I just carried pi out to 10 decimal places and still got 1915.378775356494, great waist of 10 minutes.
But that made me think just how much fin area is missing comparing a 85.5 to a set of 94's?
Are the cores used for casting cylinders really the same for 85.5 to 94's?
This is not an argument, I'm just curious.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 3:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The outside diameter of the fins must remain the same, while the portion of it which forms the cylinder gets larger - if you look at the side where the two cylinders meet and compare it you can really see the difference. Having said that, a lot of people have put a lot of miles on 94s - I say go for it, how likely are you to be running the engine without a rebuild in 100,000km? Unless you are forced to run 10mm studs with the larger inserts, cases tend to be hard to come by and expensive here.

Remember also that you need to feed that beastie - stock heads don't really cut it if you want to rev past 4,000rpm. There are other issues, such as stock heads won't take much of a flycut at the 94mm register, but for a streeter you'll probably be fine.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 4:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Footpath; sidewalk... Aluminium, aluminum... Down Under we round-up and call them 1916s.

Yeah I remember talking to Berg about his 94s 'testing' - how, what, etc - when I interviewed him in the 1990s. He wanted to change the subject real quick.

As I said, there is no data - engineering or metallurgical or otherwise - anywhere as to why 94s have somehow, weirdly, picked up the reputation for 'running hot' or any other 'claims' or 'beliefs'.

They work just fine. For hundreds of thousands of kays.

Quokka, my 'baby' 1916 puts 69.9hp (nearly 70!!) to the rollers at 5-5200rpm with stock untouched heads (except for bore machining) and Kaddies so they can work OK above 4000rpm. But it does go better with the 044s on it... but they owe me a stack more $ Sad

So to the OP, get some 94s and go nuts!
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 4:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

For all you Americans that are metric challenged 100,000 KM = 62,137 miles.

Dude there is no metallurgy problems with 94's. They run hotter because they have less cooling fins. That is a fact that can not be debated.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 5:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

And if Berg said it, well then it has to be true Rolling Eyes
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 8:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mcmscott wrote:
And if Berg said it, well then it has to be true Rolling Eyes


I remember being heavily influenced by Berg in the late 90's when I saw a guy from our town in his 1915 powered oval blow by us on the way back from the Classic (we all lived in northern AZ). I remembered thinking, "How can this be?! Berg said it wouldn't work!!" That motor lived on another 10+ years and countless more trips to California, Vegas, etc. before finally sucking a valve just a few miles outside of Fontana on a trip to the Bug-In. I was sitting in the passenger seat, by then we had become good friends. Now he has a 2276...
I too have measured the wall thickness, it's identical.
Yeah, there will be less fin area. There's other ways to make up for it. Not a big deal.
1915 is by far the best bang for your performance buck.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 8:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

vwracerdave wrote:
VWCOOL wrote:
I would love to see some actual testing/evidence/data - or any actual metallurgical or engineering reason - to support this (unfortunately, widely held) opinion.

There is no-where else in the automotive performance world (Chev/GM/Holden, Ford, Toyota/Lexus etc)


it's a 1915 dude
94x94x69x.0031416 = 1915.38

Believe whatever you want, and it has absolutely nothing to do with metallurgy. Berg did the testing 30 years ago but since he has passed away everybody just tossed his info in the trash. You can't compare a water cooled engine to a VW. The 94's do run hotter because they have less cooling fins then a stock 85.5. The 94's must fit under the stock 85.5 cooling tins so there is less outside diameter cooling fin surface area to cool them. Sit a 85.5 & 94 jug side by side and it's obvious the 94 jugs have less cooling fins then the 85.5. Also the larger the piston the more they rock inside the cylinder causing more wear and a shorter life. Larger ring diameters have more surface area causing more friction and more heat.

I'm not saying 94's run too hot for use in an engine, I have a 1915, 2165, and a 2276. I am saying 90.5's run cooler and last longer.

Run 94's in a Bug, Ghia, Thing, or Buggy if you want, but I will always suggest 90.5's in a Type II or Type III.


I love all the berg quotes and especially the rediculous high price for parts cause it is berg , please ...
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 8:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ive seen many different fin counts&dezines on cylinders. as for berg......whatever that was long ago.and just a few years earlyer the earth was rounded out from a flat,I gess somebody rolled it up,but whatever. I do have on my 2028 with a lot of miles the old berg slip in 90.5's, and there thin,dam thin.but berg claimed they were different aloy(iron mix)than reg cylinders. I have no issues at 10.4 cr daily driven. I think if your cooling system is up to the task your fine. I built a 1641 for an old friend,after a year he's saying it running awefull hot& oil pressure light flickers at idle,so i do some checken....no seal in engine compartment,rong fan in duh shroud....... well after some convincing he changed the fan.... wow this thing sounds like a weed blower back there!!(he had a old vw performance shop owner helping him assemble the engine into the car,the exspert knew ...well not much.and thus rong parts)funny thing it runs cooler now. now to get him to put a real set carbs on it instead of that junk picofshit.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 9:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you guys calling berg a liar? Are you saying he never did the testing? My experience with mahle 94's was disappointing. It ran good and did not run hot but after a couple of years oil consumption and blow by got not what I would call ideal.

Where the cooling difference shows up is in sustained high output, high speed driving which most of us street folks don't do. I think this is why 94's are not popular with bus folk.

My current build will be mahle 90.5b because I need max longevity and I like the fact that the 90.5 pistons are lighter than 94's and with a 84mm crank light pistons are a benefit.

Another thing no one has said here is the bigger the bore the more surface exposed combustion heat. With water cooling and it's high capacity that is not a problem.

Dan
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 9:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

raul arrese wrote:
vwracerdave wrote:
VWCOOL wrote:
I would love to see some actual testing/evidence/data - or any actual metallurgical or engineering reason - to support this (unfortunately, widely held) opinion.

There is no-where else in the automotive performance world (Chev/GM/Holden, Ford, Toyota/Lexus etc)


it's a 1915 dude
94x94x69x.0031416 = 1915.38

Believe whatever you want, and it has absolutely nothing to do with metallurgy. Berg did the testing 30 years ago but since he has passed away everybody just tossed his info in the trash. You can't compare a water cooled engine to a VW. The 94's do run hotter because they have less cooling fins then a stock 85.5. The 94's must fit under the stock 85.5 cooling tins so there is less outside diameter cooling fin surface area to cool them. Sit a 85.5 & 94 jug side by side and it's obvious the 94 jugs have less cooling fins then the 85.5. Also the larger the piston the more they rock inside the cylinder causing more wear and a shorter life. Larger ring diameters have more surface area causing more friction and more heat.

I'm not saying 94's run too hot for use in an engine, I have a 1915, 2165, and a 2276. I am saying 90.5's run cooler and last longer.

Run 94's in a Bug, Ghia, Thing, or Buggy if you want, but I will always suggest 90.5's in a Type II or Type III.


I love all the berg quotes and especially the rediculous high price for parts cause it is berg , please ...
My experience was the parts were higher quality than the cheaper stuff.
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