My 1966 Fastback build up

Evilgtiguy · Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 8:30 pm Post subject:

Well I brought the car home from my dealership today. They were re-paving the lot so it had to be moved. Now I'll just have to bring parts to and from home for cleaning etc. I'm going to disassemble the engine completely and bag/ box everything. I'm still cleaning the components that I took off and taking my time.

That cruising speed sounds just fine because I want to enjoy driving this car one day on a nice back road in the country. My wife saw the seat belts and isn't keen on riding in the car with them LOL! I guess it would help if I knew how they worked.

Mike Fisher · Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 11:26 pm Post subject:

Bobnotch · Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 6:52 am Post subject:

Evilgtiguy · Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 7:46 am Post subject:

Donnie strickland · Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 10:04 am Post subject:

Mike Fisher · Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 11:29 am Post subject:

My '66 doesn't have seat belt mounts on the rockers, but does have the tunnel mounts so you should scrutinize your rocker mounts for safety.
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https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold

Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey

Bobnotch · Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 7:28 pm Post subject:

Evilgtiguy · Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 8:28 am Post subject:

Here are a couple pictures of the seat buckle. I noticed that the passenger side buckle is intact whereas the driver side buckle is missing the latching mechanism, which is what had me confused.

Passenger side:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Driver side:

Evilgtiguy · Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 11:52 am Post subject:

Today I continued to tear into the case some more. I removed the cylinders, pistons, fuel pump, breather, and dizzy. I haven't measured the bores of the cylinders yet to determine the wear but assuming they are within spec would you replace or reuse them. Also, one of the cooling fins is MIA. Is this an issue?

Mike Fisher · Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 12:34 pm Post subject:

New pistons & cylinders are only $200. I would build a 1776-2007 cc engine if you want to be happy with the Power it has.
_________________
https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold

Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey

W1K1 · Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 4:51 pm Post subject:

If it's the OG early case with no cam bearings i would stick to a 1600cc, or buy a new case and build what you want.
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1973 super
1965 squareback 1500E
1971 bay window westy- subi swap

Evilgtiguy · Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 6:59 pm Post subject:

I'm a little closer to splitting the case open. I removed the head studs and now I'm ready for the next step. I've read in Tom Wilson's book that a pair of mallets on opposing sides of the case will free it up by gently tapping. What do you guys/ gals do?

As for the build portion I'm going to keep the displacement the same and possibly look at cleaning up a pair of heads. Unfortunately the more I look at the one head the more I think that it might be toast but I'll need a trained eye to look at it before I write it off.

BTW I realize that the oil fill tube is positioned wrong. I had it off for cleaning and draining of the case and just slapped it on before I left work for the day.

W1K1 · Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 7:45 pm Post subject:

Once you have all the bolts undone, including the small one at the bottom of the bell housing, usually covered in crud.
There is a $10 case splitter, or leave a couple of the big nuts partially threaded and hang on to a rod while giving a few good raps with a deadblow on the case stud will pop it apart.
_________________
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/jim_martin_engine_build.php

1973 super
1965 squareback 1500E
1971 bay window westy- subi swap

Bobnotch · Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 8:08 pm Post subject:

Clatter · Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 8:16 am Post subject:

97.24% of all first-time engine builders will miss one case nut, and beat the shinola out of their case trying to get it apart....
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Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

Bobnotch · Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 8:32 am Post subject:

Clatter · Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 8:38 am Post subject:

I'm going to politely dis-agree with Mike on the 90.5 cylinder thing.
For a couple of reasons:

1. Cost - the parts cost more, and the machine work costs a lot more
2. Reliability - while the 90.5s are nice and thick, your case has the 10mm studs, plus less cooling fin and more bore means less cooling.
3. Waste - If the rest of the motor is left stock, especially intake and exhaust, you would likely see no gain, only more heat stuck in the motor trying to get out with the exhaust.

I personally have been a motor-building nut-job for far too many years.
There are exactly 12 of them in my workshop right now, all in various states of tune and/or disassembly, none of them stock. So FWIW...

IMHO, a properly built performance type 1 motor will use very few, if any, parts from the motor you have right now.
Note I said -properly-, meaning one that will last for any length of time before it has to come back out and apart.

You will have your hands full for a long time restoring that car.
Why not use as many of the OG parts as you can building a sweet stocker for it?
After your car is stock, and sweet and shiny and beautiful,
If you have some more time and money, and want some more power, get another set of cooling tins or a core motor off of this fine site, and start building a performance motor.

Get an aluminum case, counterweighted crank, welded fan, chopped chromoly flywheel, h-beam rids, 26mm oil pump, big bore cylinders, etc. etc.
None of the parts you have in your motor right now would be of any use.
So do it all to another in your spare time, while you drive your nice shiny finished restored car with the stock motor.

If you ever do sell, the stock motor will make it worth a lot more.
If you do spend all the money you ever had on your hot motor, and need more, you could easily sell a fresh stocker.

In your stock rebuild, there is no shame in using the slightly larger, easily available later 1600 cylinders.
Not having the correct OG casting numbers on your heads isn't a sin, either, It's usually only case numbers any anal 1500 Club types would look at. It isn't like in the muscle car world where head casting numbers make or break a deal...

You have _plenty_ of fish to fry getting that body shell in order.

After your stocker is painted up and fresh/assembled,
Before it gets gas or oil in it to make it smelly,
Put it in the living room under a glass coffee table to inspire you during the loooong slog with bodywork you will hopefully be doing! Laughing

Uh, oh, rant... must... not... rant.....
_________________
Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

Evilgtiguy · Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 7:53 pm Post subject:


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My 1966 Fastback build up
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