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My 1966 Fastback build up
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Evilgtiguy
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 10:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ahh this is slick
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(poached from the thread that Donnie posted.
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 2:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Donnie strickland wrote:
I'll chime in along with everyone else -- replace all the brake lines at once. Bobnotch recommends replacing the one next to the tunnel with a two-piece line:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6735729


Yeah, if there's 1 thing I've learned about bringing Type 3s back from the dead, is to replace all of the steel brake lines, and do the rubber hoses too. When I did my 64 T-34, I used a steel line kit from Wolfsburg West (68 bug kit). The only line in the kit I couldn't use, was the left front (it was too short). In case you're wondering why a 68 bug kit, the 68 bug uses long axles like a t-3. Wink
But yes, I've been using the 2 lines and a coupler for the main front to back line for years now. The idea behind it, is that if you need to replace a section, you can (around the pedal cluster is the most common rust area for that line). It also makes it a lot easier to get started in the rear "T" fitting, along with getting the other end started into the master cylinder.
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
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bobnorman
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 3:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bobnotch wrote:
Donnie strickland wrote:
I'll chime in along with everyone else -- replace all the brake lines at once. Bobnotch recommends replacing the one next to the tunnel with a two-piece line:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6735729


Yeah, if there's 1 thing I've learned about bringing Type 3s back from the dead, is to replace all of the steel brake lines, and do the rubber hoses too. When I did my 64 T-34, I used a steel line kit from Wolfsburg West (68 bug kit). The only line in the kit I couldn't use, was the left front (it was too short). In case you're wondering why a 68 bug kit, the 68 bug uses long axles like a t-3. Wink
But yes, I've been using the 2 lines and a coupler for the main front to back line for years now. The idea behind it, is that if you need to replace a section, you can (around the pedal cluster is the most common rust area for that line). It also makes it a lot easier to get started in the rear "T" fitting, along with getting the other end started into the master cylinder.


Might want to check you local regulations though.. a joined line is illegal here in NL...
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 3:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bobnorman wrote:

Might want to check you local regulations though.. a joined line is illegal here in NL...


Are you sure? This is just 2 replacement lines and a coupler. Very safe. Now I could agree if it was done with compression fittings, as I don't trust them at all.
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
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bobnorman
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 5:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bobnotch wrote:
bobnorman wrote:

Might want to check you local regulations though.. a joined line is illegal here in NL...


Are you sure? This is just 2 replacement lines and a coupler. Very safe. Now I could agree if it was done with compression fittings, as I don't trust them at all.


Pretty sure. It was a few years ago now, my dad's car failed because of a joined line. Could be the type of fitting, but I believe the inspection station said that lines were not to be joined at all. Worth checking into anyway.

...of course it could be that the mechanic at inspection station was full of crap and looking for a job to do as well...
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Evilgtiguy
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 6:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll talk to one of my techs at work and see what they say. I do recall something about brake lines and couplers but I'm not sure what the details are here in Ontario.

I snapped a few shots of the brake line inside the car and it looks good until you get near the pedal cluster where there's some surface rust on the line. I'm not sure if it's superficial or not but I'm not really willing to gamble on a couple of inches. While I was under there I vacuumed up some dirt and dust bunnies that looked like the beginning of a mouse nest.

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Evilgtiguy
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 6:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I also used some penetrating oil on the pedal assembly, which was a bit stiff but now it's like butter. I used Performa penetrating lubricant, that stuff is like gold in an aerosol can.

These are shots before I lubricated the linkage. I applied some to the mounting bolts as well as I will remove the assembly and paint it at some point.

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Not a lot of wear on the pedal pads
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Evilgtiguy
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 6:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So the other day I decided to let my daughter get involved with the T3, actually she insisted in helping. She wanted to be under the car with me where the action was but I told her she was better as a helper and she was fine with that - for now.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


She was thrilled to cut the brake lines for me.

The bad news is that after all the line fabrication I found that I had flared the ends incorrectly so guess what I get to do again? Ding ding ding! I guess I'll get to re-do that line over the transmission that I wasn't happy with. Not the end of the world just $20 in material and some humble pie. The bonus is that I get my little helper to get involved again and with a face like that how could I be bummed out?
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 6:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's awesome Smile Must be a great feeling for you both. Can't wait until my young ones are old enough to help me in the garage.

Your pedal cluster looks like the one from my ghia, a bit..ahh..dusty in the nether-regions. I used JB weld to smooth out some of the missing metal.
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MonT3
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 7:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been following your thread and you've been making good progress with it. It's going to be slow as your rust repair work if going to keep you occupied bit at some point, it'll end. Helpers are awesome. The smile is priceless and she'll remember that for the remainder of her life. Too cool.
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 9:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bobnorman wrote:
Bobnotch wrote:
bobnorman wrote:

Might want to check you local regulations though.. a joined line is illegal here in NL...


Are you sure? This is just 2 replacement lines and a coupler. Very safe. Now I could agree if it was done with compression fittings, as I don't trust them at all.


Pretty sure. It was a few years ago now, my dad's car failed because of a joined line. Could be the type of fitting, but I believe the inspection station said that lines were not to be joined at all. Worth checking into anyway.

...of course it could be that the mechanic at inspection station was full of crap and looking for a job to do as well...


Take a look at some of the modern trucks out there. You'll see multiple splice connections alongside the frame rail.
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives."
Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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Nate M.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2015 7:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad to see your daughter is insisting she help dad. That's super special quality time there. This is the stuff memories are made of for sure.
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For heaven's sake, put a type4 and a Porsche 5-speed in there. . . It's the right thing to do!!
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Evilgtiguy
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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2015 7:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been moving right along with the braking system on the car. I pulled the drums off and was expecting to find leaking wheel cylinders but found one working and one seized and I mean seized solid wheel cylinder. I applied heat and impact to the cylinder and it's toast. I ordered replacements and stainless steel lines for the rear swing axle that should show up later this week. I was measured the drums and they are within the service limit so I just cleaned them up inside and gave them some paint on the outside. I'll end up replacing them down the road but for now they will pass a safety inspection. The rear shoes are actually in very good shape and I will reuse them.

The drums were a pain in the ass to remove and I fought with them quite a bit until I decided to pull out the torch and they gave in easily at that point.

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Passenger side
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I cleaned the rust off the hub and coated it with anti-sieze after this photo. I also coated the two brake adjusters with Coppaslip as they were stuck as well.
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Cleaned up the exterior of the drums, ground off all the corrosion.
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I also added a union under the seat.
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More to come soon.
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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2015 8:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool to see you posting some more - really takes me back.
My kids were about the same age when i was doing the same things to my car.

When i went to tow my car home i had a rented T-trailer, where one axle is on the trailer, but one is on the ground.
Had the front wheels on the trailer, but the rears were siezed.
I drug them along for a while in the hope that they would free up.
Then one tire popped..
Eventually used a rope to tie off the steering wheel, switched ends on the trailer, and drug the car over highway 17 with the front wheels just a bit loose, from the rope, so it was fish-tailing around...

Getting siezed drums off can make you an older man real quick;
Glad to see you having some luck.

Before you know it, the brakes will be done, and the motor back together, and you can drive the thing around...

As long as you don't try and be George Barris, and just put it back together stock,
it should go back together pretty quick.
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Evilgtiguy
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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2015 1:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm having a lot of fun working on the car. I'm absolutely not modifying the car and it will be kept as stock as it was when it rolled out of the showroom. This won't be a concourse car but it will be clean and done right. I'm trying to keep the engine as close to the stock displacement as possible, I have a line on oversize TotalSeal rings but I haven't got around to ordering them yet. I want to finish the braking and then pull the tranny out and give it a good cleaning and replace the torn boots and replace the release bearing for starters but I'm a month away probably.
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Evilgtiguy
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PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2015 8:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well tonight was supposed to be "Date night" with my wife but what turned out being a nice steak dinner with wine ended up with me laying underneath my car installing my new stainless steel lines and a brake cylinder. The wife had some work that she had to finish up so I figured what the heck, I might as well get something done on the car.

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My best friend lounging while I work.
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One of my new brake cylinders. I applied some Coppaslip to the threads of the bolt to prevent further seizing.
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Out with the old crusty rubber hose and in with stainless steel goodness

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More to come over the weekend.
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Last edited by Evilgtiguy on Fri May 08, 2015 8:02 pm; edited 1 time in total
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catbox
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PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2015 1:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks good.
It is helping to motivate me to work on my car.
But first I have to clean the garage...
Keep it up!
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Evilgtiguy
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PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2015 7:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have been slowly progressing on the car. I completed the rear braking system overhaul and now I've removed the transaxle. I have to replace the torn boots and give the case a good cleaning and refill the transaxle.


I have a couple questions:

I have a manual (Haynes) and it's not very clear on how to remove the driveshafts. I figure that the driveshaft tubes have to be removed first before the circlip under the hemispherical plastic piece can be removed that allows the driveshaft to be removed from the transaxle. The reason that I wanted to remove the driveshafts is that I was going to take the transaxle to the coin-op carwash booth and give it a good blasting to avoid leaving a mess in my driveway. It is just dirt after all so it's not the end of the world I guess but what would you do?

Second question is regarding transmission oil. What brand and viscosity do you guys use?
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Donnie strickland
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PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2015 11:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wouldn't remove the axles unless it was absolutely necessary.

The Official Gear Oil Thread -- read the moderator's summary comment at the top:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=276529
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Evilgtiguy
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PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2015 6:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't have any reason to remove them so I'll leave them and get the bolt on boots. That makes my life and job a lot easier - boot it, clean it, and put it back in. Thanks for the link on the oil I think I have some GL5 at work.
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