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my engine runs hot... oh well.
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Donnie strickland
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 3:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I remember reading that deal about the punch marks when it was posted recently...

There's no mention of it in any official VW literature I've ever seen, and I asked a local VW mechanic who was trained by VW in 1962, and he said he never heard of such a thing.

It would be impossible to time a Type 3 engine this way since you can't see such a mark when timing the engine.

Don't go down that rabbit hole.
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Hyperspace
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 3:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you did not build the engine, and don't know its history, the only way you can be sure of 0 TDC is to measure it... then mark your pully and distributor.
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VWCOOL
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 5:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You are relying on foreign punch marks... and a hot hood handle?

Really?
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sb001
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 6:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

VWCOOL wrote:
You are relying on foreign punch marks... and a hot hood handle?

Really?


Uhh- yes, REALLY.

I don't have to have science lab equipment to know when I touch my hood handle and it near burns my finger that my engine is running too hot, and the reason for the punch mark and how it relates to timing has already been explained at length by the original poster of it, so if you're going to go after someone for that how about disproving his theory instead of putting "really" in italics as if you're making some sort of genius statement.

I really don't have time for unhelpful posts like the one you just threw up here, VW COOL.
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bigdog1962
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 7:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm thinking what VW Cool is implying and which has been repeated in several earlier posts is that you don't know what temperature your engine is only other than how it feels. The simple solution would be to go to a sports/outdoor store that sells the long thermometers and stick it in there and see - that way you'll know for sure and the people on here will have some very useful information. I too thought mine was running hot because the dipstick was too hot for me to touch but I went and got a thermometer and found it wasn't. Just to be sure, I also bought the thermometer from SAVEMYBUG just to be sure and for piece of mind.

You may be right, it may be too hot. Just get a thermometer so you can tell everyone "I told you so!" It's an important piece of information that you can't do without. Hope you get it all solved.
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Donnie strickland
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sb001 wrote:
the reason for the punch mark and how it relates to timing has already been explained at length by the original poster of it


Yes, and it boiled down to "a guy told me this". He couldn't even supply a name, or any way to verify any of what he said.

Show me a piece of official VW literature which explains the theory, and how it explains how it's contradictory to everything VW ever published regarding using the case seam.

Until then, it's a rabbit hole. Smile
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Joey
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 7:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A stuck exhaust valve that no longer can be adjusted is proof it got hot. I'm sure when sb001 says the handle is hot he's comparing it to when the engine ran good and the handle wasn't hot after a long drive. When you have a vehicle for a long time you know when something is different and not right.
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Joey
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 7:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Donnie strickland wrote:
sb001 wrote:
the reason for the punch mark and how it relates to timing has already been explained at length by the original poster of it


Yes, and it boiled down to "a guy told me this". He couldn't even supply a name, or any way to verify any of what he said.

Show me a piece of official VW literature which explains the theory, and how it explains how it's contradictory to everything VW ever published regarding using the case seam.

Until then, it's a rabbit hole. Smile


It really does make sense when you think about it. If you ever checked the deck height on an engine it's rarely ever the exact same on both sides. It's the same reason there's different pitch/size camshaft gears. The crankshaft bore is simply off center on the horizontal plane in the case.
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VWCOOL
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sb001 wrote:
VWCOOL wrote:
You are relying on foreign punch marks... and a hot hood handle?

Really?


Uhh- yes, REALLY.

I don't have to have science lab equipment to know when I touch my hood handle and it near burns my finger that my engine is running too hot, and the reason for the punch mark and how it relates to timing has already been explained at length by the original poster of it, so if you're going to go after someone for that how about disproving his theory instead of putting "really" in italics as if you're making some sort of genius statement.

I really don't have time for unhelpful posts like the one you just threw up here, VW COOL.


Actually, what I offered was very helpful: I'm highlighting your TOTALLY INAPPROPRIATE heat measuring technique. It will be far better for you to rely on more conventional mechanical practices/techniques than heat-soak from your exhaust
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andk5591
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 3:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

without re-reading - I am assuming your engine/body seals are in good shape and all tin is in place. Also, have you measureed the oil temp. Just on first cup of coffee and will be late for work if I dont get rolling..
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Bashr52
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 7:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't you have a local guy that is an expert on these engines that helped you rebuild it the last time you almost put a rod through the case? Have you asked him?
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sb001
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 8:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bashr52 wrote:
Don't you have a local guy that is an expert on these engines that helped you rebuild it the last time


no.
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 8:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Buy one of these and shine it on the bottom oil sump plate after you have driven for 20 minutes and see what it says. $20

It won't work well for cylinder head temps but that is OK.

http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Temperature-Infrared-Thermometer-Laser/dp/B002YE3FS4
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Mr.Duncan
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 26, 2014 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

VWCOOL wrote:
You are relying on foreign punch marks... and a hot hood handle?

Really?


Most of the time, when the hood handle is HOT as hell, the engine is even hotter.

One guys bug at the shop cut out the rear apron, so the muffler heats the engine like crazy. (its currently at the shop to fix this problem)

1st degree burn on my finger from the hood handle.

And I couldn't even touch the carb it was so hot.
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Mr.Duncan
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 26, 2014 9:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Randy in Maine wrote:
Buy one of these and shine it on the bottom oil sump plate after you have driven for 20 minutes and see what it says. $20

It won't work well for cylinder head temps but that is OK.

http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Temperature-Infrared-Thermometer-Laser/dp/B002YE3FS4


This guy works too (may have a harbor freight local)

http://www.harborfreight.com/infrared-thermometer-93984.html
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type1vwjapan
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 17, 2014 10:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

don't know if this was mentioned somewhere in this thread, too long didn't read it all, but I just wanted to mention how much I like my savemybug dipstick sensor.

sure, it's simple and doesn't give you cylinder head temps, but it still gives you a great piece of mind knowing if your engine is running too hot or not. I really think that in most cases knowing your oil temps is adequate enough.

I also like that it still gives you a stock look, as I don't like aftermarket gauges ruining my beautiful stock dash. I also like that the light comes on when your engine temps are getting up there, so that you have a bit of a warning to back off and let things cool down.

I was worried about my bug when I first got it and got everything straight with it, and I was relieved to find out that my engine is running right where it should be. even on hot days using the A/C on full blast in stop go traffic over here in Japan. can't tell you how many times I kept popping my deck lid and touching my scalding hot disptick and burning my hand like a jackass and screaming "DOOH!" like Homer Simpson before I got this unit.

it must be pretty hot there in Arkansas, too, so I'd think that your dipstick being too hot to touch is probably nothing to worry about. mine still gets pretty hot, as I have to take my hand off of it after a couple of seconds. yet, everyone's tolerance for pain and how hot something is different.

my dipstick sensor ended up malfunctioning last week, which is rare from what I've heard, got a lemon I guess, and they're sending me a brand new one all the way to Japan, no charge. I bought it about a year ago, too! nothing to lose with trying it. you definitely don't have to worry about being screwed over by them, like I read happened to you with that EMPI junk. sorry to hear about that fiasco.

take care!
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sb001
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 17, 2014 11:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thx type1vwjapan
I defintely will look into a thermometer of some sort whenever I start my second engine rebuild (hopefully soon.) You are correct about Arkansas getting pretty hot in summer- but believe it or not it was only 70° here today for a HIGH- very rare mild summer we are having here this year.
That whole EMPI episode was blown out of proportion- it was just engine sled tin after all- but I learned my lesson.
Speaking of which, money's pretty tight at the moment, so I may just drive down to Booneville and buy one of those rock solid GEXs
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Hyperspace
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2014 12:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I guess every bit helps, but the cylinder heads can be ruined long before the oil temp will indicate a problem. If an aircooled motor had one guage that should have been obligatory, I'd have made it head temp guages.
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Towel Rail
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2014 10:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hyperspace wrote:
I guess every bit helps, but the cylinder heads can be ruined long before the oil temp will indicate a problem. If an aircooled motor had one guage that should have been obligatory, I'd have made it head temp guages.

Yep, it's rare to have oil temps that are too high without the heads also being hotter than they should. And you can cause a lot more sudden damage with hot heads than hot oil. Wink
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