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mrkotfw Samba Member
Joined: June 10, 2013 Posts: 223 Location: Bay Area (California)
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Posted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 10:50 pm Post subject: |
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Tim Donahoe wrote: |
Bently says .024 for carbed bugs and .028 for fuel injection.
If you've left your plugs in long enough for them to gap from the lowest to the highest setting, maybe you're a cheap bum that should spring for some new plugs more often.
Tim |
Good point. I do have the Bentley book... I should refer to that.
The torque spec. on Bentley seems too high (25 ft.lb!) and my Bosch WR8AC+ spark plugs say 21 ft.lb. Is it recommended that I add aluminium anti-seize compound to the spark plug threads?
If I have to use the following tool:
Is there any issue with getting bad results from a torque wrench? |
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Tim Donahoe Samba Member
Joined: December 08, 2012 Posts: 11740 Location: Redding, CA
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Posted: Fri Sep 12, 2014 1:32 pm Post subject: |
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I always use a very thin layer of anti-seize for the plugs. I also switched over to NGKs (after using Bosch for many years) because I couldn't get the Bosch. What a difference. The NGKs are much easier to loosen and remove. Or maybe it's just me.
I just tighten until it stops, then about a quarter turn more to crush the gasket. I doubt if that's 25 lbs. But that much torque is way too much in my opinion, anyway.
Tim |
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Mr.Duncan Samba Member
Joined: May 12, 2012 Posts: 3542 Location: Houston, TX
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Posted: Fri Sep 12, 2014 2:52 pm Post subject: |
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Tim Donahoe wrote: |
I always use a very thin layer of anti-seize for the plugs. I also switched over to NGKs (after using Bosch for many years) because I couldn't get the Bosch. What a difference. The NGKs are much easier to loosen and remove. Or maybe it's just me.
I just tighten until it stops, then about a quarter turn more to crush the gasket. I doubt if that's 25 lbs. But that much torque is way too much in my opinion, anyway.
Tim |
Tim, do you use the B5HS NGK plugs?
Current ones im using. Just checking.
oh, and if you ever switch to the regular rubber engine bay seal, ill buy your old type 4 bus foam seal from you _________________ (Owner) www.vintagecarleds.com
Red 1971 Squareback Thread
Red 1966 Beetle Thread
---------------------------------------------------
1971 Green Super Beetle (sold)
1966 Ghia (sold)
1971 Blue Super Beetle (sold)
1966 Java Green Std Beetle (sold)
1971 Red Squareback (sold)
1966 Red Beetle |
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Tim Donahoe Samba Member
Joined: December 08, 2012 Posts: 11740 Location: Redding, CA
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Posted: Fri Sep 12, 2014 5:21 pm Post subject: |
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Thomas, I believe those are the ones I put in. I got them at AutoZone. The guy looked them up on his computer.
I went to Wolfgang International here in town and he had two Bosch and two NGK--and that was it. I couldn't believe it. So I went to Autozone and got what their computer said to put in. The number you mentioned seems very familiar.
And I'll just give you the seal this November when I pull the engine--if I don't have to re-use it. But I have a bad feeling that the correct new seal I bought, still won't work unless I can somehow bang that side member over a little. I have a feeling it's a job for a body man, though. But I'll give it a shot.
Tim |
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mrkotfw Samba Member
Joined: June 10, 2013 Posts: 223 Location: Bay Area (California)
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Posted: Fri Sep 12, 2014 10:02 pm Post subject: |
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Tim Donahoe wrote: |
I always use a very thin layer of anti-seize for the plugs. I also switched over to NGKs (after using Bosch for many years) because I couldn't get the Bosch. What a difference. The NGKs are much easier to loosen and remove. Or maybe it's just me.
I just tighten until it stops, then about a quarter turn more to crush the gasket. I doubt if that's 25 lbs. But that much torque is way too much in my opinion, anyway.
Tim |
One more stupid question... Enough of aluminium anti-seize to fill grooves of the spark plug threads? |
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vamram Samba Member
Joined: March 08, 2012 Posts: 7295 Location: NOVA
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Posted: Sat Sep 13, 2014 10:18 am Post subject: |
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What is a PUMA fan shroud and why are they so expensive? _________________ Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!
'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!! |
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Brian Samba Moderator
Joined: May 28, 2012 Posts: 8340 Location: Oceanside
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Posted: Sat Sep 13, 2014 10:24 am Post subject: |
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Well this is a puma:
Its like a normal shroud, just shorter.
_________________ Wash your hands
'69 Bug
'68 Baja Truck
'71 Bug
'68 Camper
Only losers litter |
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Volks Wagen Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2013 Posts: 2926 Location: Germany
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Posted: Sat Sep 13, 2014 4:42 pm Post subject: Re: Regular beetle or super beetle |
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iamthefig wrote: |
So I purchased a 73' bug in Albuquerque a few months back.....How do I know exactly what kind of bug I have. |
This is a great stupid question. The simple answer is, there's no way of knowing. _________________ 1973 1303 with AB-motor - sporadic
reconstruction as time permits, 1986 ex-Bundeswehr Doka - on the road again.
I'm definitely, probably, the worlds greatest lover.
Aithníonn ciaróg ciaróg eile. |
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Volks Wagen Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2013 Posts: 2926 Location: Germany
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Posted: Sat Sep 13, 2014 4:45 pm Post subject: |
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mrkotfw wrote: |
Is there anything I need to watch out for when taking my fuel tank to have it boiled? |
Snipers and arse bandits are the main things to watch out for. _________________ 1973 1303 with AB-motor - sporadic
reconstruction as time permits, 1986 ex-Bundeswehr Doka - on the road again.
I'm definitely, probably, the worlds greatest lover.
Aithníonn ciaróg ciaróg eile. |
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Volks Wagen Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2013 Posts: 2926 Location: Germany
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Posted: Sat Sep 13, 2014 4:50 pm Post subject: |
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vamram wrote: |
When wanting more torque etc, am I better off w/a T4 conversion or just rebuild my T1 w/a 74mm crankshaft? |
T4 is a much more solid motor but more expensive. In an ideal world I believe T4 is the answer. _________________ 1973 1303 with AB-motor - sporadic
reconstruction as time permits, 1986 ex-Bundeswehr Doka - on the road again.
I'm definitely, probably, the worlds greatest lover.
Aithníonn ciaróg ciaróg eile. |
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mrkotfw Samba Member
Joined: June 10, 2013 Posts: 223 Location: Bay Area (California)
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Posted: Sun Sep 14, 2014 12:17 pm Post subject: |
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I can't seem to find it in the Bentley book (I'm looking at pages 17-21 on the ENGINE section), but what are the torque specs for exhaust manifold for a 1600cc DP? |
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DirtyCossack Samba Member
Joined: January 29, 2012 Posts: 209 Location: Ft Sill, OK
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Posted: Mon Sep 15, 2014 5:38 pm Post subject: |
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My starter solenoid started sticking and I have to do the tap-tap trick about 2 of 3 starts. I just had the engine out last month too. So 2 stupid questions: 1) Can you change just the solenoid without pulling the engine? I'm thinking no. and 2) Can you do the tap trick in perpetua or will it eventually quit working? _________________ 1970 Type II, Betty
1973 914 |
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[email protected] Samba Member
Joined: June 02, 2011 Posts: 1593 Location: Louisville, ky
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Posted: Mon Sep 15, 2014 6:25 pm Post subject: |
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DirtyCossack wrote: |
My starter solenoid started sticking and I have to do the tap-tap trick about 2 of 3 starts. I just had the engine out last month too. So 2 stupid questions: 1) Can you change just the solenoid without pulling the engine? I'm thinking no. and 2) Can you do the tap trick in perpetua or will it eventually quit working? |
Take the solenoid apart, clean everything and put it back together. |
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DirtyCossack Samba Member
Joined: January 29, 2012 Posts: 209 Location: Ft Sill, OK
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Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2014 7:54 am Post subject: |
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[email protected] wrote: |
DirtyCossack wrote: |
My starter solenoid started sticking and I have to do the tap-tap trick about 2 of 3 starts. I just had the engine out last month too. So 2 stupid questions: 1) Can you change just the solenoid without pulling the engine? I'm thinking no. and 2) Can you do the tap trick in perpetua or will it eventually quit working? |
Take the solenoid apart, clean everything and put it back together. |
Without pulling the engine? _________________ 1970 Type II, Betty
1973 914 |
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Volks Wagen Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2013 Posts: 2926 Location: Germany
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Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 12:17 pm Post subject: |
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DirtyCossack wrote: |
[email protected] wrote: |
DirtyCossack wrote: |
My starter solenoid started sticking and I have to do the tap-tap trick about 2 of 3 starts. I just had the engine out last month too. So 2 stupid questions: 1) Can you change just the solenoid without pulling the engine? I'm thinking no. and 2) Can you do the tap trick in perpetua or will it eventually quit working? |
Take the solenoid apart, clean everything and put it back together. |
Without pulling the engine? |
Yes, you do not have to pull the engine to remove the starter and solenoid. _________________ 1973 1303 with AB-motor - sporadic
reconstruction as time permits, 1986 ex-Bundeswehr Doka - on the road again.
I'm definitely, probably, the worlds greatest lover.
Aithníonn ciaróg ciaróg eile. |
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Danwvw Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2012 Posts: 8892 Location: Oregon Coast
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Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 12:38 pm Post subject: |
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Yeah, pulling the starter is pretty easy.
1. Just 2 bolts and the electrical connections.
2. Be sure to remove the battery end first! Or remove the ground from the battery.
3. With the starter removed from the car remove the solenoid from the starter.
4. Before opening up the solenoid you will need to un-solder the 2 solder connections on it. Use care not to over flex the coil wires.
5. It will be all rusty inside. Check the contactor and the contacts clean the contacts perhaps using 120 sandpaper or a file a Drimel tool (Taking care not to grind on them too much!) Clean with Carb cleaner or brake cleaner.
6. There are 2 Separate coil circuits in a solenoid. Each should be checked for continuity with a ohm meter. They should be close to zero ohms and they should not read any ohms between each other or the solenoid's housing.
7. I use a little light grease (Hardly Any) in mine but Silicone oil or grease would be good too being very careful not to get it on the sealing surface.
8. When putting it back together use silicone RTV of some sort to seal it back up so road water will not get into the solenoid.
9. Using Jumper cables test the starter before putting it back into the car, It should kick in very strongly! If not something is wrong.
Hitting your solenoid with a hammer is a bad practice and will eventually render the solenoid inoperative and un-repairable.
This starter below failed after only a couple of months, the contactor came loose inside. (This likely due to the rubber bumper fell off it where it would strike the bell housing) I made repairs by threading the brass shaft and getting a brass nut and insulating washer from a True Valve Hardware store, I used Locktite threadlocker to keep the nut from coming loose. (Glued the bumper on with JB weld) Also I broke the wires on mine and had to silver solder them back. (Holding still after 2 years of service but this could be something that will need future attention when using the SR-17X starters)
Repairs Done:
_________________ 1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths! |
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DirtyCossack Samba Member
Joined: January 29, 2012 Posts: 209 Location: Ft Sill, OK
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Posted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 11:51 am Post subject: |
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Good write up, thank you. I've only swapped the whole thing with engines out in the past, but I'll give this a go. Thanks again. _________________ 1970 Type II, Betty
1973 914 |
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danielsan Samba Member
Joined: September 18, 2008 Posts: 802 Location: Carson City, NV
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Posted: Sat Sep 20, 2014 10:57 am Post subject: |
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mrkotfw wrote: |
Tim Donahoe wrote: |
I always use a very thin layer of anti-seize for the plugs. I also switched over to NGKs (after using Bosch for many years) because I couldn't get the Bosch. What a difference. The NGKs are much easier to loosen and remove. Or maybe it's just me.
I just tighten until it stops, then about a quarter turn more to crush the gasket. I doubt if that's 25 lbs. But that much torque is way too much in my opinion, anyway.
Tim |
One more stupid question... Enough of aluminium anti-seize to fill grooves of the spark plug threads? |
My stupid answer:
I torque mine to 20 ft lb and have never had a problem since I started doing so. Only time I stripped a head is when I torqued to 25. The manual is wrong. Rong!
Acknowledging that NGK has said not to use *any* anti-seize: I wipe a tiny amount of nickel AS -- not copper or aluminum -- and then clean with a towel until it looks 'damp', not so much you can see any collecting in the threads. Make sure none gets near the electrode. |
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vamram Samba Member
Joined: March 08, 2012 Posts: 7295 Location: NOVA
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Posted: Fri Oct 03, 2014 9:27 am Post subject: Hard Start Relay? |
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Back w/another stupid question!
What exactly does a hard-start relay do? I installed on on my '72 Super last weekend and I can't for the life of tell any difference in how the Bug starts up! Is it just some amazing benefit that it provides behind the scenes, unbeknownst to the common driver? If so, what? Or should there be a noticeable difference to the common man in how long it cranks before starting cold/hot, etc?
Thanks,
Victor _________________ Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!
'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!! |
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Volks Wagen Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2013 Posts: 2926 Location: Germany
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Posted: Sat Oct 04, 2014 2:50 pm Post subject: Re: Hard Start Relay? |
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vamram wrote: |
Back w/another stupid question!
What exactly does a hard-start relay do? I installed on on my '72 Super last weekend and I can't for the life of tell any difference in how the Bug starts up! Is it just some amazing benefit that it provides behind the scenes, unbeknownst to the common driver? If so, what? Or should there be a noticeable difference to the common man in how long it cranks before starting cold/hot, etc?
Thanks,
Victor |
Well, the relay turns on 12v power from neare the battery to the starter, so less loss than having the power run up and down the car. Less power thru the ignition switch and less to go wrong there on that long route when using the relay. You wouldn't notice the difference if your car was starting fine prior to installing it, but it will likely add a bit of life to your ignition switch and battery and starter. You might notice an improvement in winter starting. _________________ 1973 1303 with AB-motor - sporadic
reconstruction as time permits, 1986 ex-Bundeswehr Doka - on the road again.
I'm definitely, probably, the worlds greatest lover.
Aithníonn ciaróg ciaróg eile. |
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