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TheAmazingDave
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 3:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mrkotfw wrote:
How can the brake light switches actually be torqued correctly? I can't seem to get any type of socket onto the brake light switch.

Would I need to pull the master cylinder in order to do so?


15/16" deep socket fits the brake light switches like a glove.
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mrkotfw
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 4:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

xBigDx408x wrote:
mrkotfw wrote:
How can the brake light switches actually be torqued correctly? I can't seem to get any type of socket onto the brake light switch.

Would I need to pull the master cylinder in order to do so?


15/16" deep socket fits the brake light switches like a glove.


Thanks! The deep socket will fit with the brake light switch installed, or not installed?

I'm nowhere near my Bug right now, but I can't see this happening.
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TheAmazingDave
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 4:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It will fit on installed switches. I just used one weekend before last on my brake system overhaul.

It has to be a deep socket so the switch body can fit inside while the bottom of the socket mates to the hex head body of the switch.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 8:08 pm    Post subject: Alternator suggestions Reply with quote

I know this thread has been dead for a bit and this may be off topic but I've been having issues with the subs installed in my bug because it seems what I believe is a 50A alternator is not putting out enough juice so I was wondering if a 75A would be enough too power my 2 10" subs.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 11:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1.21 gigawatts.

But seriously, it's not the size of the subs that matters, it's the power needed to drive them. What's the RMS wattage of your amp? If you're 400 or under, a 75 should be good, 95 would be best.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2015 7:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

it looks like it is around 200w so a 75 should be good but will this leave enough room for other accesories like fog lights and power outlets or is a 95 still best? also if a 95 is best what changes need be made?
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TheAmazingDave
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2015 4:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're planning on adding electric goodies and stereo stuff, the 95-amp output alternator is what you should get. If you near the alternator's output with your accessories on, you can overheat the alternator and start draining the battery.

I'm still running the stock generator, so I'm not positive on what needs to happen for installation, but it should be the same regardless of which alternator you use. Don't quote me on that one, though.

I had an 800 watt RMS amp in my Passat GLX, and it cooked the stock 120-amp alternator.
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Daily76
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2015 5:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all your help. Now i just have to shop around and make a plan.
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bustythebeetle
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2015 11:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay so my fuel pump push rod bent then snapped......im not sure what the difference is in a alternator fuel pump and generator fuel pump.......
I know i have a generator but im not sure about the fuel pump that i just bought from autozone.....they didnt give me a box with it :snipersmile: :2gunfire: :fist: Question does anyone know where i can buy a new rod that will ship fast?
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calvinater
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 16, 2015 7:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

try west coast metric
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 16, 2015 7:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just about any vendor will get it to you overnight...for a price!
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 18, 2015 11:15 am    Post subject: Thinking of buying a 1973 Beetle Reply with quote

I'm new here, so forgive me if I'm posting in the wrong area, but I don't know what to look for before buying this car. The guy had a new windshield washer assembly put in & two new front tires, and there is a lot of superficial rust, but the car is being sold for $3500, and I'm not sure how much I'll have to put into it, but I've always loved bugs & if it's a decent, reliable, car, I'd be willing to get it.
It has 76,000 on it, and may have had one owner. It's a New Jersey car, and I don't know how tough the winters are there, so don't know what kind of driving was done.
Any help/tips are much appreciated! Cheers!
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 18, 2015 2:15 pm    Post subject: Re: Thinking of buying a 1973 Beetle Reply with quote

JerriMA wrote:
I'm new here, so forgive me if I'm posting in the wrong area, but I don't know what to look for before buying this car. The guy had a new windshield washer assembly put in & two new front tires, and there is a lot of superficial rust, but the car is being sold for $3500, and I'm not sure how much I'll have to put into it, but I've always loved bugs & if it's a decent, reliable, car, I'd be willing to get it.
It has 76,000 on it, and may have had one owner. It's a New Jersey car, and I don't know how tough the winters are there, so don't know what kind of driving was done.
Any help/tips are much appreciated! Cheers!


Post this in the 68 and up forum and add some pics. Rust is a BIG problem. 3500 is too much for a rusty bug. The extent of rust is important. 76000 miles is also unlikely unless the car has a full history to back it up, and at that it'd probably be well maintained (and not a rust bucket).
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mrkotfw
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 18, 2015 9:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How do I go about removing the tension clips on the backing plate?

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[email protected]
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 18, 2015 9:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

To remove the spring clips on the star wheel I would us a dremel and a cutting wheel so I could remove as little metal as possible. Then a couple of small welds to hold the new one in. The small welds shouldn't be enough to ruin the heat treatment on the spring steel.
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mrkotfw
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 18, 2015 9:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[email protected] wrote:
To remove the spring clips on the star wheel I would us a dremel and a cutting wheel so I could remove as little metal as possible. Then a couple of small welds to hold the new one in. The small welds shouldn't be enough to ruin the heat treatment on the spring steel.


Did not know it would require me to do this.

I will be visiting my local VW shop to have it done.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 11:31 am    Post subject: Fully-Automatic Beetle Reply with quote

I just have a question out of curiosity. Was there EVER a fully-automatic Beelte produced (prior to the New Beetle, of course)? I know about the semi-automatics.

Thanks!

James
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 1:48 pm    Post subject: Re: Fully-Automatic Beetle Reply with quote

LemonheadWhitaker wrote:
I just have a question out of curiosity. Was there EVER a fully-automatic Beelte produced (prior to the New Beetle, of course)? I know about the semi-automatics.

Thanks!

James


Nope. But I'm wondering why VW never did it if they had full autos for the T3 and the T4.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 9:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What's the purpose of an "emulsion" tube in a 34PICT-3 carb, or any other VW carb for that matter?

Thanks,
Victor
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Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!

'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!!
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 4:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm just wondering why vert reinforcement rails don't have drain holes. They are basically buckets and seem to be very rot prone. Would it be unwise to add drain holes and put those valves that VW used on the pan to drain the tunnel?
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