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The Stupid Question Thread
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Jake Hoff
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 8:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RareAir had the best comment so far to bypass the ignition switch by hot wiring the coil up
Could a faulty ground somewhere do this ?

And your sure its in the electrical side?
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vamram Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 10:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pretty sure it's electrical. I mean, read the description. The car runs fine for 10-12 miles then just dies.

Say I'm doing 50 mph, I leave it in gear (4th), flip the ignition switch off/back on and it immediately starts again as if nothing had happened, except for a big backfire from the muffler - so gas was still getting into the chamber when no spark was getting there for a few moments, enough to get thru to the exhaust in time for the restart and BOOM backfire out the muffler.

I think anyway...
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sb001
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 10:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What is deck height and why is it important? How do you measure deck height?
What does deck height have to do with CC?
Is it necessary to lap cylinders before installing heads? Why do heads have to be machined?
When mating the two case halves back together what sealant (if any) is best to use?
How do you check and/or shim end play?
And finally, if you have no valve clearance when adjusting valves, and no amount of adjustment fixes it, what is wrong?
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Multi69s
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 11:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you tried by passing the ignition yet? The new ignition switches for the most part are pieces of crap, and tend to wear out quickly especially if you have a lot of keys swinging from it. However, depending on the temperature where you are at, the symptoms also mimic a bad coil. Coils generally start to give problems when they get hot. Try the bypass first, if no results, see if you can bum a coil from someone. It doesn't have to be any special type, a stock 12V coil will power the engine just fine.
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vamram Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 3:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Multi69s - it ended up being the coil. I replaced the Flame Thrower one w/a new Duralast from Auto Zone and proceeded to go on a nice 50-mile cruise. Nary a hiccup the whole time.

I'm done w/Pertronix products. In the last 2 years, I've had an ignitor module go bad, the vac can on a Flame Thrower SVDA give up the ghost, and now a Flame Thrower coil. THREE STRIKES, YER OUT!

As always, thanks to those who responded w/possible causes and test ideas! Very Happy
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Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!

'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
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Jake Hoff
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 3:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sb001

I have heard gasgasinch is a good block sealant

YouTube measuring end play it's really simple

Not understanding the valve adjustment question at one point there has to be some sort of clearance if everything is stock

Hopefully someone else will jump in on the other questions
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71StandardReduction
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 9:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hanging my head in shame as I ask another one.
Are there different length clutch cable Bowden tubes?
I'm working on a 71 pan and the Bowden tube is U shaped making the clutch cable a little short.
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Jake Hoff
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 9:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like there are three different sizes sold on airhead parts
The part number you need for a 71
311-721-361
That's on airheads parts maybe there are more
It didn't give measurements to help you but maybe another parts warehouse site gives them that would let you know which one you have

There's a bunch of clutch cables as well
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71StandardReduction
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought the clutch cable from mamotorworks, the plastic package it was in actually had a sticker that showed the length and year range which allowed me to verify it was correct.
With the Bowden tube, I believe i bought it from carcraftstore.com which was empi I believe.
I have a list to order from wolfsburg and westcoast metric soon, perhaps I will order one from one of the two suppliers
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64 Pan Buggy
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

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Jake Hoff
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 10:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Post a measurement of your tube and I will check mine and see if they are the same
But the Bowden tube not Your tube Laughing
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71StandardReduction
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 11:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I may come up a little short in that contest lol.
I will measure my tube tomorrow and take a picture of it.
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That I may dwell in the House of The Lord all the days of my Life, to gaze on the beauty of The Lord and to seek Him in His Temple~Psalms 27:4

YHWH NISSI
YHWH SHALOM

64 Pan Buggy
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

Ruby Red 1966
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Hoobie
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2014 2:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

can we please not have everyone comparing Bowden Tube sizes? Aren't we all beyond that now? Rolling Eyes
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beetlenut
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2014 7:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hoobie wrote:
can we please not have everyone comparing Bowden Tube sizes? Aren't we all beyond that now? Rolling Eyes


So is THAT your stupid question? Wink
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Wetstuff wrote:
... I spend more time shaking it than directing it?! I get a pretty decent blast for 8sec. then have to shake it again.
- Words to live by right there!

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windfish
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2014 9:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got a contribution to this thread:
A previous owner painted over the id tag in my trunk, the one behind the spare tire.
Best method for removing paint? Its so thick the raised lettering on the tag is completely illegible.
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vamram Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2014 9:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

windfish wrote:
Got a contribution to this thread:
A previous owner painted over the id tag in my trunk, the one behind the spare tire.
Best method for removing paint? Its so thick the raised lettering on the tag is completely illegible.


Dremel w/a wire brush attachment? Airplane paint remover you brush on, available at most auto parts stores? Careful for overruns onto the apron.
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Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!

'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!!
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pb_foots
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2014 10:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

windfish wrote:
Got a contribution to this thread:
A previous owner painted over the id tag in my trunk, the one behind the spare tire.
Best method for removing paint? Its so thick the raised lettering on the tag is completely illegible.


Jasco, with a small paint brush. paint it on, wipe it off with a rag soaked in water. Carefully
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Hoobie
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 26, 2014 4:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

beetlenut wrote:
Hoobie wrote:
can we please not have everyone comparing Bowden Tube sizes? Aren't we all beyond that now? Rolling Eyes


So is THAT your stupid question? Wink


is that YOURS? Wink
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beetlenut
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2014 11:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hoobie wrote:
beetlenut wrote:
Hoobie wrote:
can we please not have everyone comparing Bowden Tube sizes? Aren't we all beyond that now? Rolling Eyes


So is THAT your stupid question? Wink


is that YOURS? Wink


Yes. Is THIS yet another from U? Wink

But since I'm already here in the land of stupid questions,

Why chrome Moly grease in CV's instead of Synthetic? I know synthetic wasn't around way back when, but even now it is the prefered/recommended grease for them.
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Wetstuff wrote:
... I spend more time shaking it than directing it?! I get a pretty decent blast for 8sec. then have to shake it again.
- Words to live by right there!

My 74 Super rebuild thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6507104#6507104
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Aldwych
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2014 11:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Should I be able to turn the engine by hand (by just turning one of the fan belt pulleys) when it's cold?
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Hoobie
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 29, 2014 4:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Remember there are no stupid questions, just stupid people. Very Happy

Should be able to turn it by hand using the fan pulley with the spark plugs out, or if your rings are broken, or if your valves are shot, or if you have an interesting cam, or your pistons are broken in half or have holes in the top, or you do it very very slowly.

Of course you SHOULD be able to turn it a little way before you feel the compression slow you down even if your engine's not completely shot to hell.

Why does my cat's breath smell like fish?
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