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81 vanagon aircooled 2.0 no power on hills
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SkipPreston
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 6:52 pm    Post subject: 81 vanagon aircooled 2.0 no power on hills Reply with quote

I have an 81 2.0 with dual webers that was just rebuilt, new plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Runs fine on flat roads, but on the highway when there is an incline I lose power and have even had to drop into 2nd gear to barely make it. I live in Costa Rica so hills are a reality. It does fine on smaller mountain roads with shorter hill inclines, curvy roads and slower speeds. The problem is on the highways with longer inclines and higher speeds. Help!
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Macwesty
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 8:16 pm    Post subject: 81 air cooled losing power on hills Reply with quote

I know it is not likely but does your vanagon have a catalytic converter? My van had similar symptoms and I found a large piece of the converter media had broken off inside the converter and was blocking the exhaust like a ball valve. Idle and low speed was fine but whenever applying more throttle the broken piece would roll forward and block the exhaust robbing power.
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wcdennis
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 8:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check ignition timing and distributor advance.
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bluebus86
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

aircooled vanagon, no power in the hills, this is a joke, right?????? Laughing Laughing Laughing Laughing Laughing
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a2d2
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 9:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bluebus86 wrote:
aircooled vanagon, no power in the hills, this is a joke, right?????? Laughing Laughing Laughing Laughing Laughing


Hey, my aircooled has plenty of power on hills - in 2nd gear! Laughing

Sorry SkipPreston, couldn't resist. Hope you find a solution.
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TheMonk
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 11:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a very similar problem with my '82 aircooled kombi, just as you described, no power up hills, etc. It ended up being the electric fuel pump.
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SkipPreston
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 6:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll check out fuel pump and exhaust for problems. As far as timing goes I will need equipment to check that out properly, correct? When I took it back to the mechanic who rebuilt it he adjusted the timing with the distributor by ear but it didnt seem to help. He also suggested I change the dual carbs for a single with a conversion kit saying it would be more economical and fewer adjustment problems. Not sure that will help power problem, seems like it could make it worse.
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a2d2
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 9:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SkipPreston wrote:
As far as timing goes I will need equipment to check that out properly, correct? When I took it back to the mechanic who rebuilt it he adjusted the timing with the distributor by ear but it didnt seem to help.


You will need a dwell/tach meter and a timing light - don't worry about the fancy ones with the advance built in. Costly one's will be more reliable but I'm making do with the cheapest I could find and so far so good.

An ace VW mechanic might be able to time your engine by ear but for the most part this is only useful for getting it running and "in the ballpark".

I found it very helpful to cruise around the Baywindow forums a lot when I started working on my own engine - there are a lot more Type IV aircooled owners on there than there is in Vanagon land.

Quote:
Check ignition timing and distributor advance.


I think this is a very good guess. If you have the stock FI system and distributor it should be around 7.5*BTDC at idle but the top end is where it is important. If you time it to 28*BTDC at 3500RPM (vacuum hoses disconnected) that could fix the issue (These numbers vary by engine/distributor, will be different if not stock). Once you hook the hoses back up you should see the timing advance "exponentially" as you increase the RPMs - if not there is likely something wrong with the advance on your distributor. Check your points gap (Dwell) before any of this.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 12:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SkipPreston wrote:
I'll check out fuel pump and exhaust for problems. As far as timing goes I will need equipment to check that out properly, correct? When I took it back to the mechanic who rebuilt it he adjusted the timing with the distributor by ear but it didnt seem to help. He also suggested I change the dual carbs for a single with a conversion kit saying it would be more economical and fewer adjustment problems. Not sure that will help power problem, seems like it could make it worse.


So your timing is now within 10* +/- of where you want it. Not to good in my opinion. Your mechanic is also lacking in carburetor knowledge if he is recommending going from duals to a progressive center mount, few people get the progressives to run all that well. The typical set up is a long way from plug and play when first taken out of the box.
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vanagonjr
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 3:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not clear - did you own this van before the rebuild - meaning there was a , power loss after the rebuild, or is this van a new purchase and you have not driven an air-cooled Vanagon before?
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SkipPreston
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 7:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought the Vanagon in February and am new to the Vanagon world. I was told it had been rebuilt. After about three weeks the engine seized. I took it to a VW mechanic here in Costa Rica. He took it apart and it had been rebuilt but not put together properly. He replaced the bearings, cam shaft and new packings. It runs fine on flat roads and around town, but I drop to like 10 mph on the highways that have an incline. I don't mean a steep incline, just a steady straight incline. It had more power before the rebuild. He has made adjustments to the carbs and timing, but all by ear. He's an old hippy mechanic who has been working on VW's his whole life, but I'm not sure he has all the right equipment.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 8:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is a dang good chance you will burn up an air cooled engine running it when not timed with a light. If you have a point style ignition you could time it to 7.5* BTDC statically. That will get you closer than someone making wild guesses by trying to time it by ear. I wonder how many engines the old fool of a mechanic has ruined by not investing in a timing light. Crying or Very sad

Muir has good instructions on timing and engine statically IIRC. If you can't find such we can talk you through it.
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SkipPreston
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 10:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The mechanic here is saying it is a carb problem. I called another mechanic to get a second opinion and he says 1981 Vanagons did not have carbs so it is an older motor. Is that true?
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ryecatcher
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stock is fuel injected. Yours was probably converted to carbs at some point because someone didn't want to deal with F.I. I'd get it back to stock, but that's just me...
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 11:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

All air cooled Vanagons destined for the US market were fuel injectied, but I doubt if this was true for Vanagons built for other markets. If yours was originally carbed then most likely it would have had dual Solex carbs.

Your valves need to be right, your timing needs to be right, and your carbs need to be setup right for you engine to put out good power.
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danfromsyr
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 12:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vanagons never came with dual carbs.
even the 1600cc aircooled vans came with a single carb.

carbs need to be tuned for sea level and high elevation.
I suspect in Costa Rica you'll experience both in some drives.

it could be going slow because some internal damage has already been done by the carbs and the PO sold the headache.. but it could be just needing several things adjusted.

I don't have any easy answer for you, but a
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
VW mechanic should be able to recognize and tune carbs.. keeping them in tune will be a challenge.
the distributor timing and advance curves are quite likely mis-matched to your aftermarket carbs as well.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 1:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

danfromsyr wrote:
vanagons never came with dual carbs.


The Just Kampers website show that '79-'83 T25s (Vanagons) were available with twin Solex 34 PDSIT-2/3 carbs.
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paramike
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 2:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The 2 liter aircooled came with dual carbs here in Europe.

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Cheers,

Michiel
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danfromsyr
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 5:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ahh I don't know why I thought it came with a single center mount..
musta been the Carb'd WBX.

sorry. i'll go back to the back of class now.
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MarkWard
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 8:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would ask for a compression test of the rebuilt engine. You say it ran fine before the rebuild. If the engine does not have good compression, it will not make good power.

Once you have verified the compression is to the high end of the spec, you can troubleshoot from there.
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