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AZVWlover Samba Member
Joined: April 13, 2009 Posts: 142 Location: Phoenix, AZ
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Posted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 5:43 pm Post subject: Battery/Alternator help...Don't know where to start. |
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Ok guys, Here's the situation. I have just finished restoring a 59 and it was previously converted to 12v. The engine runs great and there are no problems there. Here is the issue:
The car will barely turn over and if it gets enough going, it will fire up. BUT, its' been killing the battery. When we attach jumper cables and jump it from on another car, it barely turns over. So We returned the battery (only one month old) and put brand new one in. So just now it barely turned over at first but then fired up. I took it for a spin around the block, LITERALLY! And pulled into garage and turned it off. I then tired to turn it back on, and the car battery is DEAD. Barely cranked and then stopped. That's TWO brand new batteries in 2 months. Now, my gut says there is something wrong with the Alternator, but I'm not sure.
So can you experts give me your thoughts and the easiest way to test it and see if it's the alternator? IF it is, I can replace it pretty easily but don't want incure the expense until i'm sure.
Thanks for the help.
_________________ 1972 VW, 1967 karmann Ghia,1964 VW Bug,1967 VW Bug (all matching numbers), 1969 VW Bug, 58' matching VW, 59' VW bug, 56 oval ragtop matching. |
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itskyle Samba Member
Joined: October 04, 2013 Posts: 634 Location: Plainfield, IN
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Posted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 6:58 pm Post subject: Traditional testing |
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Would mean disconnecting the battery after the car is running.
If car stays running, not alternator issue.
If car stops, alternator issue.
Hope this helps.
Kyle _________________ --
69 or 72 Autostick Bug current
66 Bug (We both miss it)
74 SuperBeetle Auto Stick (I miss that car)
73 SquareBack, Straight Stick (Wife misses this one.) |
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RareAir Samba Member
Joined: May 11, 2002 Posts: 14577 Location: 18 miles North of the border
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Posted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 7:34 pm Post subject: Re: Traditional testing |
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itskyle wrote: |
Would mean disconnecting the battery after the car is running.
If car stays running, not alternator issue.
If car stops, alternator issue. |
X2. The only use for the battery is to start the car. Once running, all electrical is fed by the charging system.
Check the tension of your fan belt. Too loose and the alternator wont operate properly _________________ 1947 Typ 11a
1954 Typ 117
1956 Typ 151
1959 Typ 117
1959 Typ 265
1961 356B
1966 Typ 151
1966 Typ 241 |
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Aussiebug Samba Member
Joined: June 03, 2002 Posts: 2162 Location: Adelaide Australia
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Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 3:30 pm Post subject: |
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Itskyle and Rareair....
NEVER disconnect the battery in an alternator equipped car whilst the engine is running - it's very likely you'll cook the alternator.
A Generator equipped car can run for a short time on generator alone without damage, but not an alternator car.
AZvwlover, read this article on our web site for a simple diagnosis.
www.vw-resource.com/generator.html (it covers alternators too). _________________ Rob
Rob and Dave's aircooled VW pages
Repairs and maintenance for the home mechanic
http://www.vw-resource.com |
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Longrifle Samba Member
Joined: August 12, 2010 Posts: 313 Location: Chino Hills, CA
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Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 3:46 pm Post subject: |
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Do you have a volt meter? Check your battery across the terminals with the engine off. You should have about 12.5+ volts or so, and 14.5+ or so with the engine running if the alternator is working properly. I doubt your fresh battery took a dump and will not take a charge. _________________ Longrifle
67’ sedan
66’ SO-42 |
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OLD VW NUT Samba Member
Joined: February 23, 2011 Posts: 2776 Location: High Desert of Washington 98823
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Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 10:01 pm Post subject: Re: Traditional testing |
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RareAir wrote: |
itskyle wrote: |
Would mean disconnecting the battery after the car is running.
If car stays running, not alternator issue.
If car stops, alternator issue. |
X2. The only use for the battery is to start the car. Once running, all electrical is fed by the charging system.
Check the tension of your fan belt. Too loose and the alternator wont operate properly |
This is OK advice for a generator equipped car - for an alternator not so good. I had a battery terminal come off while driving a 65 corvair - it blew every light (it was nighttime) that was on and fried the final transistors in my Cobra CB radio. While it didn't fry the alternator right then it did cause it to go south within a few months - had to replace that too!
Never remove the battery terminals on an alternator equipped car unless you have spare money to fix everything that gets fried. Test it as Longrifle mentioned. With the proper electrical test equipment. _________________ 71 Ghia Coupe - stock body - no rust! Powered by a 2110 W/Dual HPMX 44's - Rancho Pro Street Transaxle - A/C by Gilmore
Other car - 2013 VW Golf TDI |
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vamram Samba Member
Joined: March 08, 2012 Posts: 7304 Location: NOVA
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Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 3:59 am Post subject: |
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Also, you can have the alternator and battery tested at Advanced Auto or some such FLOPS. They'll do that for free, but you have to get the car there first.
Victor _________________ Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!
'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!! |
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