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outrun1984 Samba Member
Joined: July 16, 2010 Posts: 267 Location: Rutland, VT
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Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 4:34 pm Post subject: Oil Cooler & Pump 2000CC |
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Removing my engine to do the clutch in a week or so. I want to replace the oil pump and oil cooler. What brands have everyone had the best luck with. So far Bus Depot has the pump, and a new VW cooler or a aftermarket by Euromax. Is the VW cooler worth the money? Any input would be great! Thanks!!
79 Westfalia 2000CC _________________ 1979 Westy, Mexico Beige, 2.0 FI, Petronix, KYLE Fuel Injection Harness upgrade.
Going Furthur...in search of the sound....... |
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Randy in Maine Samba Member
Joined: August 03, 2003 Posts: 34890 Location: The Beach
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Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 4:39 pm Post subject: |
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Why do you want to replace them? |
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outrun1984 Samba Member
Joined: July 16, 2010 Posts: 267 Location: Rutland, VT
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Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 4:51 pm Post subject: |
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Pump is on its way out, the red light comes on at idle and low rpm when warm. it wont pump sae 30 anymore just 20w50.....and im almost sure that the cooler is beyond plugged up with garbage. Just trying to keep her cool on the road. _________________ 1979 Westy, Mexico Beige, 2.0 FI, Petronix, KYLE Fuel Injection Harness upgrade.
Going Furthur...in search of the sound....... |
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airschooled Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012 Posts: 12721 Location: on a bike ride somewhere
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Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 5:41 pm Post subject: Re: Oil Cooler & Pump 2000CC |
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outrun1984 wrote: |
…a new VW cooler or a aftermarket by Euromax. Is the VW cooler worth the money? |
Do you drive a Euromax brand Bus? I like to keep Volkswagen parts on my Volkswagen.
(Hint: I know you don't drive a Euromax bus, because your thread is not about how your bus is plastic garbage made by a company that cares about nothing more than making an easy buck.) _________________ Learn how your vintage VW works. And why it doesn't!
One-on-one tech help for your Volkswagen:
www.airschooled.com |
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old DKP driver Samba Member
Joined: March 30, 2005 Posts: 4145 Location: Los Gatos,Ca.
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Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 5:46 pm Post subject: oil pump & cooler |
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You should state the mileage on your engine and then proceed to check the
oil pressure.
Where did the 'Garbage' in your oil come from ? have you pulled the sump
screen to verify this ?
I have not built an engine in two years but, you will need to be careful in
buying a pump since many do NOT fit the bore in the case.
The pump has a crush factor of .003 to .005 and the older Schadek pumps
were poor quality. the stock bore in the case is 70.07 mm (approx.) and the
aftermarket pumps were (approx. 69.97 )
I ended up buying my 26 mm pump from Gene Berg ent. which is a hard anodized Schadek pump.
Option : Stock pump rebuilt or have yours rebuilt. _________________ V.W.owner since 1967 |
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aerosurfer Samba Member
Joined: March 25, 2012 Posts: 1602 Location: Indianapolis, IN
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Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 6:05 pm Post subject: |
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The type 4 pumps are really pretty tough... the low oil pressure may not be from that. have you pulled and/or replaced the pressure relief plug and spring? Bearings may be getting worn, galley plug starting to leak as well as Both front and back main seals. all that would add up to a drop in pressure as the oil thins out. Remove the pump and take it apart and replace the gasket inside of it.
Does the Cooler leak? If not and you are going to go through the trouble of removing it, why not just clean and pressure test it first, if its that clogged think of what else is circulating in the motor.. might be time for a rebuild anyhow. Otherwise it may need to be blasted clean from the air flowing over it. _________________ Rebuild your own FI Harness..My Harness
77 Westy 2.0L Rockin and Rolling Resto!
72 Sportsmobile (sold)
79 Tran$porter... Parts car money machine (gone) |
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rustybusjef Samba Member
Joined: December 19, 2011 Posts: 329 Location: EVERETT WASHINGTON
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Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 6:28 pm Post subject: |
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You might want to check your oil pressure and maybe even temp before you waste your hard earned bucks on something you dont need. Your bearings are probably just worn a bit , it happens , if thats all it is try thicker oil or an additive . As far as the cooler , clean it with a good solvent and then weigh it , should be the same as a new one . |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50337
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Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 7:59 pm Post subject: |
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I agree with others that your low oil pressure is more likely to be a sticky relief valve piston than an oil pump problem. Type 4 pumps are pretty decent. I am still running my original pump, which puts the total mileage at something like 400K. The most common failure for the Type 4 pump is that the internal o-ring hardens and cracks with time. This will cause the pump to drain down after shutdown and not reprime easily when you restart the engine. The other failure mode is that the idler shaft works its way out and begins to interfere with the bolts or rivets on the timing gear, when this happen engine failure as imminent.
You should remove your relief cylinder piston and make sure it moves freely up and down in its bore. |
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outrun1984 Samba Member
Joined: July 16, 2010 Posts: 267 Location: Rutland, VT
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Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 9:33 pm Post subject: |
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Duly noted! I will check the relief first. Seems to me at 105k it runs immaculate. No knocks, ticks etc. Just had a new cylinder head put on the 3 side. Just pumps like hell 40-70 lbs at startup, warm at 50mph she's still pulling 30-40 lbs. of pressure. Hot say 225 degrees oil temp which is where she sits usually. It varies. According to my gauge. Where is this pressure relief valve? Repair kit available? Just bothers me seeing the light come on at low rpm. I will have to blow the cooler off with air, hope its not too bad from a previous mouse. _________________ 1979 Westy, Mexico Beige, 2.0 FI, Petronix, KYLE Fuel Injection Harness upgrade.
Going Furthur...in search of the sound....... |
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curtis4085 Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2011 Posts: 4806 Location: Colorado
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Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 10:01 pm Post subject: |
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Replace your oil pressure sender! _________________ Special Thanks to:
Headflow Masters - Vista, CA
www.headflowmasters.com |
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Desertbusman Samba Member
Joined: June 03, 2005 Posts: 14655 Location: Arizona
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Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 11:01 pm Post subject: |
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The common rule of thumb is 10 psi per 1,000 rpm Minimum. Of course you can analyze it per the pressure/temperature/rpm/viscosity requirement that VW publishes in the service manual. So you can evaluate your lube system yourself by that criteria and see how it stacks up to what VW says is go or no go.
Temp is the major variable in pressure because of viscosity being dependent on themperature.
People have differing attitudes but no way would I let my engine continue running at 225 degrees. Either shut it down or slow down so it will run cooler.
Seems like there is a lot to evaluate on your engine. Yes, the pump might be about done for but you have mentioned other points that also add to the situation such as bearing clearances. A cooler gooped up and junked up internally does not reduce oil pressure but it might increase pressure until the relief takes control. Clogged up externally just causes it to run hotter by reducing oil viscosity.
_________________ 71 Superbug
71 Westy |
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1967250s Samba Member
Joined: May 02, 2007 Posts: 2137
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Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 11:39 pm Post subject: |
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Depending upon the wear in your engine, it could be a number of things, from clogged filter, to worn out bearings. A new cooler is just a band-aid. You mentioned a new head, too. Why?? Could the lifter rods be set too loose? And high temps point to worn rings/cylinders and other things. How many miles on the engine? |
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outrun1984 Samba Member
Joined: July 16, 2010 Posts: 267 Location: Rutland, VT
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Posted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 3:22 am Post subject: |
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Well the engine has 105K miles on it. Head was done 5k ago. Head was done on the number 3 side as the number 3 dropped a valve. Compression is pretty uniform across all four cylinders now. She usually is around 220 cusing around. If I am rolling down the highway around 55 or so thats just where she sits. If I start goosing or hit lots of big hills it climbs to 240 and I back off. If I am going up a large hill and it hits the 250 mark I shut her down and back way off. I have always had a feeling the oil cooler was never doing its full job with the high volume of air that flows through there. Engine bay is sealed up tight. So in the bandaide world...at least getting me through the next 3-5 thousand miles (which is all I will put on it this year) Some easy things to check are the oil cooler and pressure relief valve. Thought I saw on the Bus Depot a relieve valve kit for sale. _________________ 1979 Westy, Mexico Beige, 2.0 FI, Petronix, KYLE Fuel Injection Harness upgrade.
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50337
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Posted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 8:43 am Post subject: |
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Take a garden hose and nozzle and blast up through your oil cooler from below. Do this long enough for any oily greasy crud to blow off the top. You can use a mirror down the #4 spark plug access hole to kind of see how bad it is in there. Of course if you just had the head off, hopefully whoever was in there would have cleaned the outside of the oil cooler for you. Why don't you try running a 5w-40, 5w-50 or even a 0w-50 synthetic oil and see if that brings your oil temps down. The VW system is designed to heat the oil until it gets the oil viscosity down to where it wants it. It will make a high viscosity oil (like a 20w50) run hotter than a lower viscosity oil like a 5w-40 or a 0w-50. |
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outrun1984 Samba Member
Joined: July 16, 2010 Posts: 267 Location: Rutland, VT
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Posted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 9:58 am Post subject: |
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Interesting! Couple years ago I tried SAE30 and to my dismay the oil light was on while running and pressure dropped as soon as it got halfway warm. I have not tried anything other than 20W50. How do you think the other ones will work such as a 0w30? _________________ 1979 Westy, Mexico Beige, 2.0 FI, Petronix, KYLE Fuel Injection Harness upgrade.
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50337
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Posted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 11:41 am Post subject: |
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outrun1984 wrote: |
Interesting! Couple years ago I tried SAE30 and to my dismay the oil light was on while running and pressure dropped as soon as it got halfway warm. I have not tried anything other than 20W50. How do you think the other ones will work such as a 0w30? |
It is all going to be an experiment to see what works, though I would say to check the relief valve for free movement and proper spring height before trying another oil.
Oils like 5w50 or 0w50 have very high viscosity indexes, meaning they don't thin out as readily as they get hot as would a more normal oil. Also in my limited testing of various weight oils it was the first number that had more to do with how hot the oil got than the second number. I have not seen where anyone else has bothered to do any testing. |
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outrun1984 Samba Member
Joined: July 16, 2010 Posts: 267 Location: Rutland, VT
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Posted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 12:17 pm Post subject: |
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Well I will be checking / cleaning the relief valve..I will also be the first one to rate multiple oils and give an idea as to what a worn motor will do. Let me see whats out there....Hmmm 0W50 sounds interesting! _________________ 1979 Westy, Mexico Beige, 2.0 FI, Petronix, KYLE Fuel Injection Harness upgrade.
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