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Signalocity
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Joined: February 13, 2012
Posts: 573
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 Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 8:40 am Post subject: |
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| nilza wrote: |
Your build thread is such a great archive, I have used it on numerous occasions to see what a part of my van is suppose to look like and see what parts are missing.
. Thanks for documenting |
No problem at all and thanks! I am glad to hear that it is helping out. |
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Signalocity
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Joined: February 13, 2012
Posts: 573
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| Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 7:44 am Post subject: |
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I finished up with the vent lines on the gas tank and prepped for the install. I capped off the large port on top of the charcoal canister, as it is not needed with the conversion. It still helps out with scrubbing the fumes though and the vent line off the bottom was routed back to the factory location, into the frame rail. My fuel filler hose was getting pretty spongy, so I picked up a new one from GoWesty, as well as the stainless tank straps. I originally had the fuel lines running through the body grommet, but later changed them to route behind the fire wall. The fuel lines are Gates brand barricade. A new fuel filter of course and some new mounts for the fuel pump were also included.
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insyncro
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Joined: March 07, 2002
Posts: 15086
Location: New York
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| Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 8:01 am Post subject: |
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From personal experience I would like to share that the tank straps can be left a bit loose to allow the tank to settle and expand as much as possible when filling and completely full.
As long as it doesn't contact the transmission, all is OK.
I am currently double checking a Syncro that I have been working on for some time now and have loosened the straps and will be filling the tank to see exactly how much I can squeeze into it, than just snug the bolts.
Hope this helps you get more than the advertised amount into the tank and allows for excellent vapor transfer to the EVAP canister. |
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hans j
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Joined: May 06, 2006
Posts: 2714
Location: Salt Lake City UT
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| Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 8:39 am Post subject: |
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I've removed those blue worm drive hose clamps on more than one occasion due to them being so stiff and big they didn't seal properly! If the parts guy gives them to me at work, I hand them back and ask for something different...
_________________
1986 Canadian Syncro Westy TDI - 1989 Syncro Single Cab - 2001 Audi S4 - 1981 VW Caddy ABA - 1980 VW Caddy EV - 1973 VW T-181 |
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insyncro
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Joined: March 07, 2002
Posts: 15086
Location: New York
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| Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 8:45 am Post subject: |
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| hans j wrote: |
| I've removed those blue worm drive hose clamps on more than one occasion due to them being so stiff and big they didn't seal properly! If the parts guy gives them to me at work, I hand them back and ask for something different... |
Wurth Zebras are really good. |
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Zeitgeist 13
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Joined: March 05, 2009
Posts: 12115
Location: Port Manteau
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| Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 9:14 am Post subject: |
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Since we're making observations based upon experience...is there any reason not to relocate the fuel filter to a more accessible location (e.g the engine compartment) on a Syncro? I find the stock location to be absolutely maddening when it comes time for replacement...especially in the field.
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Casey--
'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik? |
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flomulgator
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Joined: March 07, 2013
Posts: 950
Location: Leavenworth, WA
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| Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 9:37 am Post subject: |
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German engineers knew you needed to cut your teeth on something simple like a fuel filter field replacement to prepare the operator for more demanding syncro field tasks like replacing the starter, rear main seal, CV axles.....
Repositioning the fuel filter to an easy location is the first step on a path that leads to Toyota ownership 
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She's built like a steakhouse, but she handles like a bistro! |
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Signalocity
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Joined: February 13, 2012
Posts: 573
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| Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 9:42 am Post subject: |
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| insyncro wrote: |
From personal experience I would like to share that the tank straps can be left a bit loose to allow the tank to settle and expand as much as possible when filling and completely full.
As long as it doesn't contact the transmission, all is OK.
I am currently double checking a Syncro that I have been working on for some time now and have loosened the straps and will be filling the tank to see exactly how much I can squeeze into it, than just snug the bolts.
Hope this helps you get more than the advertised amount into the tank and allows for excellent vapor transfer to the EVAP canister. |
Interesting ... I have mine snugged down fairly well, so curious to hear what your result is. Good news is that they are not too hard to get to with this conversion, so it wouldn't be anything major to adjust them. 
Last edited by Signalocity on Mon Jul 14, 2014 10:19 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Signalocity
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Joined: February 13, 2012
Posts: 573
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| Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 10:05 am Post subject: |
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| hans j wrote: |
| I've removed those blue worm drive hose clamps on more than one occasion due to them being so stiff and big they didn't seal properly! If the parts guy gives them to me at work, I hand them back and ask for something different... |
| insyncro wrote: |
| hans j wrote: |
| I've removed those blue worm drive hose clamps on more than one occasion due to them being so stiff and big they didn't seal properly! If the parts guy gives them to me at work, I hand them back and ask for something different... |
Wurth Zebras are really good. |
Thanks for the heads up. The majority of the clamps I have used are the Wurth brand, but I had to make use of the blue ones (came with my rebuild parts) as I was running low. I will keep an eye on them though. |
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Signalocity
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Joined: February 13, 2012
Posts: 573
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| Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 10:16 am Post subject: |
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| Zeitgeist 13 wrote: |
| Since we're making observations based upon experience...is there any reason not to relocate the fuel filter to a more accessible location (e.g the engine compartment) on a Syncro? I find the stock location to be absolutely maddening when it comes time for replacement...especially in the field. |
| flomulgator wrote: |
German engineers knew you needed to cut your teeth on something simple like a fuel filter field replacement to prepare the operator for more demanding syncro field tasks like replacing the starter, rear main seal, CV axles.....
Repositioning the fuel filter to an easy location is the first step on a path that leads to Toyota ownership |
You know, I had considered that early on and mulled it over for quite some time. I just could not find a decent place to move it to. I did not want to run it in the engine compartment and I will have a Trans cooler taking up space later on as well. I also wanted to leave room for other possible options such as an auxiliary fuel tank, water tank, propane etc., so I left it where it was. It is a little easier to work with, since I opted not to wrap the tank. It is still a pain in the butt, but not too terrible. No reason not to move it that I can think of, to answer your question. 
Last edited by Signalocity on Mon Jul 14, 2014 2:49 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Zeitgeist 13
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Joined: March 05, 2009
Posts: 12115
Location: Port Manteau
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| Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 10:41 am Post subject: |
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I relocated the filter into the LR side of the engine compartment on a 1.8L inline swap I was tidying up for a friend, but I don't know where you'd put one on a Zetec. I only asked, 'cause every time I see one in the stock locale, I get nervous and twitchy
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Casey--
'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik? |
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Signalocity
Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2012
Posts: 573
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| Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 2:39 pm Post subject: |
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| Zeitgeist 13 wrote: |
| I relocated the filter into the LR side of the engine compartment on a 1.8L inline swap I was tidying up for a friend, but I don't know where you'd put one on a Zetec. I only asked, 'cause every time I see one in the stock locale, I get nervous and twitchy |
Yeah, I cringed and had every intention of relocating it early on lol. The Zetec fuel lines enter and exit right next to the firewall, so it would be counterintuitive to bring them back into the engine compartment. |
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1vw4x4
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Joined: June 22, 2005
Posts: 472
Location: Pgh. PA
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| Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 4:51 pm Post subject: |
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[quote="Signalocity"]The engine bay seemed to be to be more of an extension of the underbody to me, so I decided to keep it in the same color scheme. Another reason for staying with the lighter color on the underside is for visibility. Field repairs are so much easier when you can clearly see what it is you are working on, more so in poor light conditions. Even in a well-lit shop and on a lift, the dingy underside can be rather gloomy. All body and wiring grommets are being removed and threaded inserts are either being plugged or chased. I drilled out a 2 inch hole under the electronic junction box to afford me some better routing options for the wiring later on.
I like that plating you are having done. Mind sharing who and where
is doing this for you? |
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MsTaboo
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Joined: June 02, 2006
Posts: 4087
Location: East Kootenay, British Columbia
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| Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 6:56 pm Post subject: |
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Beautiful work!
I'm really kicking myself for not dropping the fuel tank and revamping when I did my Zetec conversion. Ran out of time, wish I had made time!
Anyway, another bit to think about with the Zetec/Syncro conversion is to lose the coolant pipe grip in the firewall. It creates much needed hand room when dealing with the coolant pipes.
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Currently:
'90 Syncro Westy 3 knob w/Zetec
The information age has morphed into the age of disinformation and willful ignorance. Agnotology!
Help the fight against Truth Decay.
Defend democracy, support Ukraine. |
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Phishman068
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Joined: February 19, 2007
Posts: 1867
Location: Pittsburgh PA (ish)
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tjet 
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Joined: June 10, 2014
Posts: 3533
Location: CA & NM
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| Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 8:51 pm Post subject: |
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* * * * * * * S u b s c r i b e d * * * * * * * |
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Signalocity
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Joined: February 13, 2012
Posts: 573
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| Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 5:59 am Post subject: |
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| 1vw4x4 wrote: |
I like that plating you are having done. Mind sharing who and where
is doing this for you? |
My guy is retired, but it was an old school business and didn't do any type of mail order work. Just Google "metal refinishing" in your area and make some phone calls. Someone should be able to point you in the right direction. There are mail order places online, as well as kits to start doing it yourself.
here is a recap from earlier in the thread ...
| Signalocity wrote: |
| Most towns/cites have places that do metal refinishing and it is not all that expensive. You can drop off a box of rusted hardware and have it back looking like new, in about a week. The key is keeping track of all of it. They can not deal with painted parts though, you would have to strip those first. I like to media blast any larger pieces to get the best finish. I try to limit the big pieces however, as it does not hold up as well as paint or powder coat. Especially in the rust belt. The nice thing about zinc plating is that it does not mess with tolerances, so it is great for threaded hardware and surfaces that require a seal. It pays to take as large a batch as possible, as the cost does not really go up that much. Taking a bunch of small batches could add up. |
Cheers!
Last edited by Signalocity on Fri Jul 18, 2014 2:55 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Signalocity
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Joined: February 13, 2012
Posts: 573
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| Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 6:31 am Post subject: |
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| MsTaboo wrote: |
Beautiful work!
I'm really kicking myself for not dropping the fuel tank and revamping when I did my Zetec conversion. Ran out of time, wish I had made time!
Anyway, another bit to think about with the Zetec/Syncro conversion is to lose the coolant pipe grip in the firewall. It creates much needed hand room when dealing with the coolant pipes.
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Thanks! I was so glad that I did, when I saw the state of the tank on the inside! Especially since it didn't look all that bad from the outside.
That is a good idea! I ended up just pushing it back a bit by hand to gain a little clearance, but that would certainly make for easier access. |
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Signalocity
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Joined: February 13, 2012
Posts: 573
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| Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 7:23 am Post subject: |
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| Phishman068 wrote: |
Eric, I am having the same CAD type plating done locally by a company in glenshaw.
They charge for an entire batch though, so you either bring them a TON of stuff (pretty much a whole car disassembled into bits), or your price per part goes up quite a bit.
Having the old bolt collection tumbled, etched, and coated (A different line and price for their small parts that can be tumbled vs those that need to be dipped) is about $80. I believe this is for up to 60lbs of small item though.
I am impressed with this posters many plated parts, and I know some places are known to do this process in small batches and quite cheaply. Kyle has a guy in ohio that does parts like this in small batches cheaply, but out here....
It's full batch or nothing.
And i've called everyone. : / |
Precisely. I had three decent size batches, plus a few odds and ends. I think I paid around $250 for everything. Had I taken it all in one batch, it would probably have been closer to $100. I think pricing with my guy was more subjective, depending on what type of mood he was in lol. The more you can fit into one load, the better. |
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Signalocity
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Joined: February 13, 2012
Posts: 573
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| Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2014 7:29 am Post subject: |
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Just tidying up a few details here, which are pretty self-explanatory. I had thought about changing the horn out for something different, but I grew attached to my little beeper, so I decided to keep it. I plumbed in the additional vacuum hard lines where they needed to go and bundled them in with the main harness.
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