Hello! Log in or Register   |  Help  |  Donate  |  Buy Shirts See all banner ads | Advertise on TheSamba.com  
TheSamba.com
 
Project Crunchie '87 Syncro Tin Top Overlander. (Pic Heavy)
Page: Previous  1, 2, 3 ... 11, 12, 13 ... 31, 32, 33  Next
Jump to:
Forum Index -> Vanagon Share: Facebook Twitter
Reply to topic
Print View
Quick sort: Show newest posts on top | Show oldest posts on top View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
tjet Premium Member
Samba Member


Joined: June 10, 2014
Posts: 3528
Location: CA & NM
tjet is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 12:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Signalocity wrote:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Does that valve shut off only the heater core?

When it is closed, will it cause a problem with engine cooling, or will the system need to be re-bled once opened?

If so, you might want to put a lockout device on it

http://www.grainger.com/category/valve-lockout-devices/lockout-devices/safety/ecatalog/N-lqe

Also, those lines will move during heat/cold cycling. The housing of that valve may wear into that line it's secured to. Over time, you make end up with a leak there. When it comes to tubing, you really don't want it touching anything (bulkheads, other rigid lines, etc). The plastic zip ties wont last either.

Also, it's a good idea to bond any metal lines to the body ground. This will prevent corrosion on non-grounded (bonded) parts, especially lines with hoses on each end.

Here is a good idea on how to clamp a housing (filter, valve, accumlator) to a rigid line.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Looking good btw
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Signalocity
Samba Member


Joined: February 13, 2012
Posts: 573

Signalocity is offline 

PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 7:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tjet wrote:
Does that valve shut off only the heater core?

When it is closed, will it cause a problem with engine cooling, or will the system need to be re-bled once opened?

If so, you might want to put a lockout device on it

http://www.grainger.com/category/valve-lockout-devices/lockout-devices/safety/ecatalog/N-lqe

Also, those lines will move during heat/cold cycling. The housing of that valve may wear into that line it's secured to. Over time, you make end up with a leak there. When it comes to tubing, you really don't want it touching anything (bulkheads, other rigid lines, etc). The plastic zip ties wont last either.

Also, it's a good idea to bond any metal lines to the body ground. This will prevent corrosion on non-grounded (bonded) parts, especially lines with hoses on each end.

Here is a good idea on how to clamp a housing (filter, valve, accumlator) to a rigid line.

Looking good btw


Thanks for the input! The valve is not a new concept and has been implemented plenty of times before, I simply relocated where it is typically installed. It only shuts off the feed to the front heater core. As long as the system is partially open, it will function normally and there is no reason to re-bleed. If the handle is inadvertently turned, it won’t hurt anything.

The valve has two rubber isolators around the housing, and these are what make contact for mounting. The valve is mounted with two stainless hose clamps, and it is immobile. The rest of the heater hose is installed as it was from the factory (excluding the relocated tee), zip ties and all (see pic). The smaller zip ties holding the two heater lines together are rated for 50 lbs. ea. and the larger ones are rated for well over 100 lbs. ea. I am confident that they will still be there long after the life of the install. Smile

As for the grounding and corrosion, I will leave that for others to debate. I am fine leaving as is though.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Last edited by Signalocity on Mon Aug 04, 2014 10:53 pm; edited 2 times in total
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
insyncro
Banned


Joined: March 07, 2002
Posts: 15086
Location: New York
insyncro is offline 

PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 9:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Many vans have ball valves replacing the stock parts.
As stated, as long as it is not completely closed, it will be fine.
The originals have small bypasses in the valve section to allow air to pass and be bled out by the bleeder loop and and expansion tank.

Was any pipe dope or sealant used on the threaded portions?
Just curious.

I really like how you brought the pipes together with the band clamps.
I have been using large, wide zip ties and have a tool to tighten them beyond what doing it by hand offers.
I will try the Zebra clamps next time.

Thanks again for the pictures Exclamation
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
smurfpike
Samba Member


Joined: April 24, 2010
Posts: 220
Location: Utah
smurfpike is offline 

PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 11:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I like this idea and location a lot. As stated above it is recommended to leave the valve slightly open but are you able to fully close it in the summer time without damage? I don’t mind bleeding the system every winter to save the heat on the front end in the summer. I live in the desert.

If it is recommended to leave open for a slight flow why not just use the stock valve?
_________________
1965 Ottinger Tribute Overland Bus
IG @otter.the.overland.bus
FB Ottertheoverlandbus

IG Westyrestorations
FB WestyRestorations, parts and accessories

1987 Syncro "Big Red", Full restoration thread http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=606596

1978 Westy Camper, Full ground up restoration, restoration thread http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=593413
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Signalocity
Samba Member


Joined: February 13, 2012
Posts: 573

Signalocity is offline 

PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 2:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alright, I should clarify this a bit lol. I still have the functional factory plastic valve in place up front. It can be operated via the lever on the dash if I wish, but I will likely never use it. I installed the secondary valve to compete against the “hot foot” issue. As Insyncro correctly pointed out, the factory valve still allows some bypass, even when fully closed. If you ever reach down and notice a steady stream of warm/hot air blowing on your right foot out of the heater vent in the middle of summer (making your foot nice and toasty) … well there you go. This valve is intended to shut off the flow completely to the front heater core. There are plenty of discussions on this topic, if you search here on the forums. When I stated a “partially open system”, I was referring to the rear heater core (sorry, I see how that could be misleading). As long as you have one core flowing normally (not completely shut off), this should eliminate the need to bleed anything (if you have your system bled well, this really shouldn’t be a problem regardless). For the Bostig conversion guys and gals …

Bostig – “NOTE: For best operation of the cooling system the rear or front heater core should be left at least slightly open at all times. This allows faster operation of the T-Stat by allowing constant bypass through the heater core.”

Sorry about any confusion and hope this clears it up!


Last edited by Signalocity on Mon Aug 04, 2014 7:24 pm; edited 4 times in total
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Signalocity
Samba Member


Joined: February 13, 2012
Posts: 573

Signalocity is offline 

PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 2:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

insyncro wrote:
I really like how you brought the pipes together with the band clamps. I have been using large, wide zip ties and have a tool to tighten them beyond what doing it by hand offers.
I will try the Zebra clamps next time.

Thanks again for the pictures Exclamation


Man, I was truly surprised in just how much more slack I was able to take up by using the band clamps.

It was PTFE "Pink" plumbers tape. Chemical resistant and good from - 450F - 550F. Wink

Gladly!


Last edited by Signalocity on Tue Aug 12, 2014 8:55 am; edited 2 times in total
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Signalocity
Samba Member


Joined: February 13, 2012
Posts: 573

Signalocity is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 7:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a quick update with the final detailing of the front diff., after getting it back from AA. Taping off hardware does take quite a bit of time ... but I sure do like the end result. Very Happy

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Signalocity
Samba Member


Joined: February 13, 2012
Posts: 573

Signalocity is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 7:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are a few pics of the front diff. and axle install. Everything went smoothly, with a few extra hands on deck to help heave it up there.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
insyncro
Banned


Joined: March 07, 2002
Posts: 15086
Location: New York
insyncro is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 7:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you so much for feeding my new addiction to plating every single, nut, bolt and part I have laying around.

$yncro Gold as I like to call it now Wink
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
flomulgator
Samba Member


Joined: March 07, 2013
Posts: 950
Location: Leavenworth, WA
flomulgator is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I noticed you plated and are re-using the lower control arm pivot bolt, which brings to mind a question: How did you decide what hardware was worn to the point of replacement and what could get sent to the plater? And aren't CV bolts one-time use?

Second question: I notice your front suspension has some parts painted (LCA, swap bar, knuckle) and some parts plated (radius rod, end links). What was the deciding factor?
_________________
She's built like a steakhouse, but she handles like a bistro!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Signalocity
Samba Member


Joined: February 13, 2012
Posts: 573

Signalocity is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 2:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

insyncro wrote:
Thank you so much for feeding my new addiction to plating every single, nut, bolt and part I have laying around.

$yncro Gold as I like to call it now Wink


What can i say ... I'm an enabler lol.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Signalocity
Samba Member


Joined: February 13, 2012
Posts: 573

Signalocity is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 3:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

flomulgator wrote:
I noticed you plated and are re-using the lower control arm pivot bolt, which brings to mind a question: How did you decide what hardware was worn to the point of replacement and what could get sent to the plater? And aren't CV bolts one-time use?

Second question: I notice your front suspension has some parts painted (LCA, swap bar, knuckle) and some parts plated (radius rod, end links). What was the deciding factor?


I mainly looked for signs of obvious wear or corrosion. The majority of the bolts that I did re-use, would be hard to differentiate with a new one side by side (after plating). I would say that I did away with about 30% of the original hardware, give or take. I had everything plated, even stuff I knew I was not likely to use, as it really didn't affect the cost. I then made my final decision prior to install. I picked up new hardware from many sources, including the dealer. Yes, the CV bolts are one-time use ... I had my GoWesty 12 pointers plated ... Wink

I try to limit my plating of larger parts, mainly because it is not as robust as other options. I decided to include the radius rods and end links, since they both have threaded ends. The good thing about plating is that it does not mess with tolerances and it is cost effective. My rule of thumb is that if it has threads, seals, pressed parts ... it is likely a good candidate. I also include small brackets and parts that were plated from the factory.

The large suspension components and frame work is all powdercoat. I went this route as it was the best choice for my wallet, with a quick turnaround time. My powdercoat guy also does sandblasting, which influenced my decision. I was able to leave everything with him, as it came off the van.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
flomulgator
Samba Member


Joined: March 07, 2013
Posts: 950
Location: Leavenworth, WA
flomulgator is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 4:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks! Not only does that give me a better understanding of how to restore something properly but also helps guide my decision-making process about what to do with my syncro parts that need some TLC in the near-term.
_________________
She's built like a steakhouse, but she handles like a bistro!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Signalocity
Samba Member


Joined: February 13, 2012
Posts: 573

Signalocity is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 3:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

flomulgator wrote:
Thanks! Not only does that give me a better understanding of how to restore something properly but also helps guide my decision-making process about what to do with my syncro parts that need some TLC in the near-term.


Sure thing and look forward to seeing the progress!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Steve M.
Samba Member


Joined: July 30, 2013
Posts: 6798
Location: Fort Lauderdale, Fl.
Steve M. is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 7:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

smurfpike wrote:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I was just admiring that beautiful white paint and seeing the corrugated steel bed and the openings on the cross-members where the corrugations lift away...would it not be a bad idea to seal them with a good silicone to keep the wet dirt/dust/grime out of the openings so you don't start the rust cycle again? Just thinking the paint did not reach all the way into the void to cover all the metal no well done the painting was done.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Signalocity
Samba Member


Joined: February 13, 2012
Posts: 573

Signalocity is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 8:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Steve M. wrote:
I was just admiring that beautiful white paint and seeing the corrugated steel bed and the openings on the cross-members where the corrugations lift away...would it not be a bad idea to seal them with a good silicone to keep the wet dirt/dust/grime out of the openings so you don't start the rust cycle again? Just thinking the paint did not reach all the way into the void to cover all the metal no well done the painting was done.


I had considered doing just that, but decided not to for a few reasons. The gap is fairly sizable (about ¼ inch), and I wasn't terribly comfortable sealing a space that wide. Also, it would take a fair amount of material to seal up the entire underside of the van, which could get to be a bit pricey. I didn't want to get halfway through the process, just to find out I didn't like how it was turning out. I didn't remove anything that was already there, so whatever the paint didn't reach, is still how it was before I started ... if that makes sense. I do not recall that being a huge problem area, but I could easily be wrong lol. I figure anything that does get that high up will just drip back out of the frame rails, which I blew out well and re-treated with Wurth body protection.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I'm not saying it is a bad idea, especially if one lives in a harsher climate. Maybe someone with a little more first hand experience will chime in on this one.

Thanks!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
insyncro
Banned


Joined: March 07, 2002
Posts: 15086
Location: New York
insyncro is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 8:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That Wurth product is excellent Exclamation
The MultiSprayer they also sell has wands with different ends to help get into the tightest of spaces.
The larger sprayer allows for bulk canisters to be purchased and applied.
The rattle cans do have an additional solvent in them to keep the product spray able through the tiny tip, but still A+++ product.

I have plenty of experience with "sealing up" nooks and crannies found in the unibody construction of the Vanagon.
I am in the process of creating a new thread to document the "hows" and "whys".
Cox, another great company makes applicators for mastics, sealants and epoxies.
The tools and techniques will be shown.
This type of "sealing" goes hand in hand with sprayable sound deadening, thermal barriers and moisture barriers.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Signalocity
Samba Member


Joined: February 13, 2012
Posts: 573

Signalocity is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 2:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A few more pics of the front diff. install.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
MsTaboo
Samba Member


Joined: June 02, 2006
Posts: 4065
Location: East Kootenay, British Columbia
MsTaboo is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 2:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Total eye candy! Thanks for the pic's!
Nice you used clear tubing for the vent lines, easy to spot clogs.
_________________
Currently:
'90 Syncro Westy 3 knob w/Zetec

The information age has morphed into the age of disinformation and willful ignorance. Agnotology!
Help the fight against Truth Decay.
Defend democracy, support Ukraine.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
RainierSyncro
Samba Member


Joined: February 26, 2013
Posts: 806
Location: Seattle
RainierSyncro is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 10:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you are done, drive this van to a Syncro event, put it up on jack stands, and charge people a fee to lay down on a creeper to check out the amazing detail underneath. I think you will make quite a bit of money.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Display posts from previous:   
Reply to topic    Forum Index -> Vanagon All times are Mountain Standard Time/Pacific Daylight Savings Time
Page: Previous  1, 2, 3 ... 11, 12, 13 ... 31, 32, 33  Next
Jump to:
Page 12 of 33

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

About | Help! | Advertise | Donate | Premium Membership | Privacy/Terms of Use | Contact Us | Site Map
Copyright © 1996-2023, Everett Barnes. All Rights Reserved.
Not affiliated with or sponsored by Volkswagen of America | Forum powered by phpBB
Links to eBay or other vendor sites may be affiliate links where the site receives compensation.