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Project Crunchie '87 Syncro Tin Top Overlander. (Pic Heavy)
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Signalocity
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 10:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

insyncro wrote:
Signal,
Is this a plated, stock, header or and aftermarket one?

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Building up two Zetecs currently for conversions and was curious.

TIA.


It is the factory header that I had Jet-Hot coated (http://www.jet-hot.com/). I saw a couple of aftermarket versions, but I do not believe there really is any room for improvement and wasn't sure how/if it would affect the tune.
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Signalocity
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 2:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So the moment finally arrived … with the help of a couple of co-workers/friends, final prep of the engine for install commenced. The transaxle mated up evenly with the engine, only needing a couple of shimmies for it to slide into place. I would like to comment once again on the quality of design and fabrication on the Bostig specific parts, as everything went together perfectly. The clutch is a factory Sachs unit from Van Café, and I included the GoWesty gear reduction starter as well. I used a couple of floor dollies with some metal shelves bolted together to provide a platform for the mated engine and transaxle, allowing me to position it nicely under the van. There were a lot of long hours getting to this point, I had to stand back and soak it all in for a moment lol. It seemed forever ago, when I removed the original drive line.

TIP:

The instructions for the GoWesty starter state to clock the mounting flange, when installing in a Syncro (to position it correctly under the gas tank). This is not possible with the Bostig conversion, as there is no way to get the bolt past the starter body. It would run through from the engine side on a factory setup. I was able to leave it “as is” due to the fact that I left the insulation off of the gas tank. This allowed the gas tank to sit up a bit higher, and afford more room above the starter as well. If the insulation was still in place, there is a chance it might have interfered.

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Last edited by Signalocity on Mon Sep 08, 2014 6:57 am; edited 1 time in total
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Farfrumwork
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 3:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I guess that's ok... IF you like spotless drivetrains (and under-carriages) Wink


Still in Shocked over this van

Applause


(I use a skateboard in conjunction with an engine hoist to move my motor/tranny in & out... Cool )
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'17 4x4 Sprinter, stone grey, SMB pop-top, on 33"s

"Blood stains, speed kills - Fast cars, cheap thrills - Rich girls, fine wine - I've lost my sense, I've lost control, I've lost my mind"
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bostig
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 6:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could eat off of it... NEVER drive that van to the east coast one winter and it would all be for naught!

Note on the GW starter, pull it again and file the top tooth chamfer to match the OE starter pinion gear, the GW one is bidirectional, it'll work better on the brand new ring gear teeth that way.

Nice!

Jim Akiba
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luVWagn
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 8:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Signalocity wrote:

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.

That's a whack of capacity on the networking rack?!!!

Oh and yeah, I want to hire you for a syncro 16 restoration - but probably can't afford it :p
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JudoJeff
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 8:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're the Gold Standard for Syncro conversions and rebuild! Most impressed!
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1989 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Burned up on 7/31/16.
1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig & Rebuilt, sold
1986 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig Sold May 10, 2021
1999 Ford GTRV Westfalia camper (30% bigger Westy layout)
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tjet Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 4:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you going to make a heat shield that goes above the muffler?

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You could probably sandwich together 2 sheets of stainless with some square tubing, leaving it open at the front & rear to allow air in...

Looking good Cool

http://www.mcmaster.com/#8983k332/=tmifl8

http://www.mcmaster.com/#89825k31/=tmih5q
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Signalocity
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 08, 2014 7:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Farfrumwork wrote:
(I use a skateboard in conjunction with an engine hoist to move my motor/tranny in & out... Cool )


Loving the skateboard idea!
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Signalocity
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 08, 2014 7:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bostig wrote:
You could eat off of it... NEVER drive that van to the east coast one winter and it would all be for naught!

Note on the GW starter, pull it again and file the top tooth chamfer to match the OE starter pinion gear, the GW one is bidirectional, it'll work better on the brand new ring gear teeth that way.

Nice!

Jim Akiba


But I live on the east coast! ... just not in the rust bubble part lol. Thanks on the starter tip, I will put that on the to-do list.
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Signalocity
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 08, 2014 7:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

JudoJeff wrote:
You're the Gold Standard for Syncro conversions and rebuild! Most impressed!


Engine conversion? This van was born a Syncro Wink I appreciate it!
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Signalocity
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 08, 2014 8:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tjet wrote:
Are you going to make a heat shield that goes above the muffler?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


You could probably sandwich together 2 sheets of stainless with some square tubing, leaving it open at the front & rear to allow air in...

Looking good Cool

http://www.mcmaster.com/#8983k332/=tmifl8

http://www.mcmaster.com/#89825k31/=tmih5q


I wasn't planning on it. The header is going to be much hotter than the muffler, and I am not thinking there would be much benefit to restricting the airflow to the upper part of the exhaust. I do have the stainless header shield from Bostig though. Thanks!
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Signalocity
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 08, 2014 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

luVWagn wrote:
Signalocity wrote:

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.

That's a whack of capacity on the networking rack?!!!

Oh and yeah, I want to hire you for a syncro 16 restoration - but probably can't afford it :p


Stop staring at my rack!

Paying me is one thing, talking me into it is another. Laughing
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MsTaboo
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 08, 2014 9:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Signalocity wrote:
tjet wrote:
Are you going to make a heat shield that goes above the muffler?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


You could probably sandwich together 2 sheets of stainless with some square tubing, leaving it open at the front & rear to allow air in...

Looking good Cool

http://www.mcmaster.com/#8983k332/=tmifl8

http://www.mcmaster.com/#89825k31/=tmih5q


I wasn't planning on it. The header is going to be much hotter than the muffler, and I am not thinking there would be much benefit to restricting the airflow to the upper part of the exhaust. I do have the stainless header shield from Bostig though. Thanks!


That photo is of my engine compartment before it was completely finished. I actually did fashion a small shield out of leftover Wasserboxer engine tin that shields the coolant hose from the muffler. The hose isn't as close to the muffler as the photo makes it seem (perspective) but I did feel some shielding would help, although it's really not very big, about 4"x10".
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tjet Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 08, 2014 1:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Signalocity wrote:

The header is going to be much hotter than the muffler, and I am not thinking there would be much benefit to restricting the airflow to the upper part of the exhaust. I do have the stainless header shield from Bostig though. Thanks!


You will like that Zetec engine. I got to drive one last weekend. Felt like a new car, & we had the a/c on ice cold too Cool


I'm going to drop my eng/trans this week in my 87 Syncro. I've decided to go after the fuel tank at this time. The sender is kaput, but I'm mainly concerned about the condition of the fuel lines. I'm also going to try to clean up the eng compartment/ trans tunnel area.

Did you reuse the original heat shield/insulation on your tank? I'm trying to find one of those....
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Signalocity
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2014 6:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

MsTaboo wrote:
That photo is of my engine compartment before it was completely finished. I actually did fashion a small shield out of leftover Wasserboxer engine tin that shields the coolant hose from the muffler. The hose isn't as close to the muffler as the photo makes it seem (perspective) but I did feel some shielding would help, although it's really not very big, about 4"x10".


I will keep an eye on it and revisit later if need be. Good to know though!
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Signalocity
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2014 6:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tjet wrote:
Signalocity wrote:

The header is going to be much hotter than the muffler, and I am not thinking there would be much benefit to restricting the airflow to the upper part of the exhaust. I do have the stainless header shield from Bostig though. Thanks!


You will like that Zetec engine. I got to drive one last weekend. Felt like a new car, & we had the a/c on ice cold too Cool


I'm going to drop my eng/trans this week in my 87 Syncro. I've decided to go after the fuel tank at this time. The sender is kaput, but I'm mainly concerned about the condition of the fuel lines. I'm also going to try to clean up the eng compartment/ trans tunnel area.

Did you reuse the original heat shield/insulation on your tank? I'm trying to find one of those....


I have been very happy with the progression of things so far and I do have an A/C setup in mind, but that is a ways down the road.

Regarding the fuel tank, about halfway down the page ...

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5...p;start=40

Cheers!
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Signalocity
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nothing too noteworthy on the engine install, just took my time so as not to clip anything. I then began the process of making connections and routing hoses/lines. One benefit mentioned by others on numerous occasions, is the Bostig harness. All of the electrical connections terminate right where they need to be, no fuss.

TIP:

Before final torque on the engine cradle to frame bolts, take some time and make sure you stay centered between the shocks. Mine wanted to wander over to the passenger side as I tightened everything down.

TIP:

On the engine cradle lock down bolt (picture number 9), you need to drill the hole. Verify that you are not drilling into, or behind, the vertical part of the frame rail and leave enough space for the washer as well. My first instinct was to center the bolt in the slotted hole in the cradle … until I thought to stick my finger in there to check lol. I didn’t make this mistake, but I almost did. Wink

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wasserbox
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 11:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Quote:
Stop staring at my rack!


I think you need another uplink on your secondary supervisor if you really want to have full redundancy

Smile
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MsTaboo
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 11:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Signalocity wrote:

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Interesting that you have the old CNC intake elbow. I bought one of those a year or two back to replace the original 90* steel pipe intake thinking it would be better. It isn't!
Do yourself a favor and get the new "Cobra Head" intake and do a RG3 intake setup. Ditch the hose! It will mean a new snorkel path on the drivers side, but worth it to keep the air cool.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i99/JASONSHEA/IMG_8172_zps0158be73.jpg

I have a Group 6 install setup with the ECU in the rear drivers side corner and will need to figure a way to redo my wire harness, but I plan to change my intake setup to the new style. Much shorter air intake path. Until then I will buy the Cobra Head to replace the steel intake.

The new RG3 intake path is the way it should have been from the beginning, and now that Bostig has bailed on the Turbo there's no need for all that empty space on the drivers side of the engine bay.

Also, have you thought about wrapping the exhaust manifold in heat tape? It's another thing I've been contemplating to reduce excess heating of the engine lid. (even with the stainless heat shield)

p.s. Very nice work as usual!
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The information age has morphed into the age of disinformation and willful ignorance. Agnotology!
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Last edited by MsTaboo on Thu Sep 11, 2014 11:50 am; edited 2 times in total
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JudoJeff
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 11:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

X2 re: mstaboo comment about the air intake. I reconfigured mine, very easy to do. (once you have the cobrahead...)

Much quieter, cooler air intake, no hassling with the gnarly plastic welded airbox.
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1989 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Burned up on 7/31/16.
1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig & Rebuilt, sold
1986 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig Sold May 10, 2021
1999 Ford GTRV Westfalia camper (30% bigger Westy layout)
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