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dellorto drla 36 on 1600 am I crazy?
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Floo420
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PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2014 6:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I pulled the wire off #3 spark plug.
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quartermilecamel
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PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2014 10:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh ok. So you were running on 3 cylinders to to get rpm to be normal.
got it. There must be more crud in my #3 barrel, or the valves are wrong.
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Last edited by quartermilecamel on Sun May 18, 2014 1:13 am; edited 1 time in total
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quartermilecamel
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PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2014 1:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok so it really bothered me that #3 wasn't making much power. Almost makes me wish I had 2 more head temp guages Laughing Decided to swap carbs to see if issue followed carbs and I think it did. Got #3 up to 185 degrees just running it a bit. Startled me when right side carb backfired. since I had the tops on them the right side carb was hitting fan shroud, and preventing intake manifold to tighten up correctly. Might not be the carbs at all if the manilfolds aren't sealing up to head. will test more later on today.
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PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2014 12:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

no idea what to do now. Drove bus and #1 doesn't get over 250. Just short of popping out every dam lead plug and checking for debree, Im stuck I think.
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PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2014 1:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have no choice you have no choice.
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PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2014 5:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can relate. I am in the same boat...STUMPED...
I have finally got my fuel pressure down and the 3/4 side is still idling WAY to high and it won't come down. I have cleaned the jets and now I think its time to pull the manifold and check the seal to the head.
When you said there was interference with the tin do you have a picture of the manifold you are using? I had to grind some of the manifold away to fit in. I am thinking that I may have to take a bit more off for it to settle down on the head better. Also I assume that you ground off the nipple on the head, did you grind that down far enough?
Put up some pictures if you have them, if for nothing else, comparison sake.
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PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2014 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

you can just spray starter fluid at the manifold base, if the RPMs change you have a leak there.
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PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2014 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tried that and didn't notice a big change but I'm at my end. I can't think of what else it could be besides a vacuum leak. I will try and Isolate it before I go crazy but I can't think of anything else. Unless it's the butterfly's sticking open.... That's a possibility too I guess
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PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2014 7:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use an infrared laser temp gun 1/2 in away from the exhaust flange and compare the temps of each cylinder. It makes it easy to find the one with the clogged jet.

I also use an unlit propane torch to find intake leaks so it doesnt mess up the paint/dirt on the tin.



Use a feeler gauge between the butterflies and bores to see if the shaft is twisted which would cause a bunch of problems with tuning.
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PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2014 8:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you check to make sure that the O-rings on the mixture screws are on and in good shape?
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PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2014 8:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

quartermilecamel wrote:
Ok so it really bothered me that #3 wasn't making much power. Almost makes me wish I had 2 more head temp guages Laughing Decided to swap carbs to see if issue followed carbs and I think it did. Got #3 up to 185 degrees just running it a bit. Startled me when right side carb backfired. since I had the tops on them the right side carb was hitting fan shroud, and preventing intake manifold to tighten up correctly. Might not be the carbs at all if the manilfolds aren't sealing up to head. will test more later on today.


Did you get this figured out yet? You know when I did mine I had to clean one idle jet twice in a row before it started to fire on it. Various Idle jets kept clogging one at a time for the first week or so then the problems just cleared up totally. Just try driving it a little then go back and clean the idle jet on the cylinder that is not firing. How does it run when it's floored at 40 mph? In 3rd gear? Should run pretty good even with a clogged Idle jet.
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PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2014 10:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

will try the floored thing. It doesn't feel like its running on 3 cylinders or missing, but thought about the keep cleaning it/driving it. Also havnt driven but 2 times short distances so no clue what #1 would heat up to. Floored in 3rd when 40mph.....will run that test tomorrow. Have map gas torch to test that theory. Spraying carb cleaner to find leaks is nerve racking. Although todays carb cleaner in a spray could probably wash out eye contacts with no ill issues.
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PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2014 10:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was only thinking of seeing how it accelerated between 40 to 50 or so! Should be hitting on all 4 doing that if it is just a clogged Idle jet. Should run pretty good.
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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2014 10:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tried the 3rd and 4th floored. no misfire detected. The speedometer isn't used to being a racing tacometer Laughing
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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2014 10:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Floo420 wrote:
I can relate. I am in the same boat...STUMPED...
I have finally got my fuel pressure down and the 3/4 side is still idling WAY to high and it won't come down. I have cleaned the jets and now I think its time to pull the manifold and check the seal to the head.
When you said there was interference with the tin do you have a picture of the manifold you are using? I had to grind some of the manifold away to fit in. I am thinking that I may have to take a bit more off for it to settle down on the head better. Also I assume that you ground off the nipple on the head, did you grind that down far enough?
Put up some pictures if you have them, if for nothing else, comparison sake.

Aftermarket heads that didn't come with head nipple so nothing to grind off. Besides, you can take out that nipple or locator pin with vice grips if you need. Interference Im talking about was the fan shroud to choke flange of carbs with out choke installed. I just dented shroud a bit. Other area of interference was left cross rod linkage plate that bolts to top of carb was hitting beneath pivot mount. Also dented or massaged fan shroud heater blower pipe that it was hitting on a bit. Will take pictures.
The only interference now is my right foot keeps getting stuck on the floor as I drive.
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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2014 10:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it does seem to run STRONG 1/3-full throttle then you know your main systems are working ok.
Still not right tho?

On the one hand I don't tend to suspect clogged idle systems right off the bat with these things. For one thing the transfer ports and idle air are 2mm diameter. I'd take a big chunk of something to clog such large holes Shocked And the removable cover over the transfer ports lets you cle3an those out easy too.

But then again you take a look at my cutaway and see how the idle system gets fuel to the idle jet out of the main well? yeah, just a tiny hole in the side of the main well. If that were partially obstructed with oxidation it could cause very puzzling problems.
They always say "vac leak" or "it's the start system" but sometimes it isn't.
Of course you already brushed out the main wells with a gun cleaning brush, and observed with a LED light that they were clean. Wink but that may not get it clear.
I know they tell you never to use wire to clean passages.........but I would....take a piece of .030 welding wire and put a little 90 degree bend at the end and go down the main well and wiggle it around in that idle feed hole. what else could you do? Could take the idle jet out and run compressed air through that feed passage but that'd risk blowing out the darn plug, and you don't want to do that!!

Or not. Maybe it's working fine. i donno. hate to see folks having problems with these, they are great carbs and should run as nice as fuel injection unless somethings off!!!
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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2014 11:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the idle jet does keep clogging would that drop the cylinder head temp 100 degrees at speed? #3 head temp max was 380 when I got on it or going 60ish up a grade with dual 1 barrel solexes. Now it doesn't even get to 300. Thinking I need to drive it, warm it up good so the idle is 1200 to 1500 and check for leaks with spray or torch. Yes, after I drive it, the idle climbes to over 1200.
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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2014 11:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmm, not sure about speed. More about throttle position. If you had one idle clogged then that cylinder may go dead at idle-light throttle, but then you should feel it come back to life when you hit the gas.
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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2014 11:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

These Dellortos are some of the nicest carbs I have ever set-up. I had never had never played with Dual carbs on a VW before I got them. But I Drove a 356A for years and they had a similar carb on them and I got used to setting them, But do you know I had that engine in the A for years and never really had a clog with the Zenith carbs!

The Dellortos do dial right in, You should be able to make it idle stronger or weaker on one side or the other. It's pretty easy to tell what is happening with them. You should be able to tell which cylinder is not idling just by removing spark wires one at a time from the distributor. Each time your remove a wire the idle will drop out on that cylinder and each should cause about the same drop in idle speed. If one side is slowing down more than the other then things are out of balance a little. But you do need it idling on all 4 for that to work right. I would just set all 4 Idle mixtures the same number of turns out from full in. Whatever it is You want them a little more out than is needed to make it idle without slowing down. Once the linkages are balanced it should rev-up smoothly without chugging on one bank (head) more than the other. If the gas levels in the carbs are right (And The Same!) and the floats free there should not be any changes in idle speed once warm. Only takes a minute to warm up. Beautiful carbs just need to figure out what's going on with them.
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PostPosted: Thu May 22, 2014 10:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I do have 030 welding wire. No gun cleaning brush. cylinders 1, 2 , and 4 plug wire idle drop is the same. cylinder 3 not so much drop. Used sync snails to be sure idle and off idle reved the same. Unless Im missing something I don't see how just one cylinder could be that much off or out of sync with linkage but could try the feeler guage test next. Yes I have used compressed air down the idle jet passage Shocked
Id hate to see how it performs when cylinder 3 wakes up Laughing I already beat a ford f250 with a heavy load onto the freeway double lane to onramp. He was being a dick and wouldn't let me over so I floored it. Not sure if I enjoyed the raw acceleration it had or the look on his face as I passed him to get into right lane for onramp.
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