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MaximumFinishes
Samba Member
Joined: August 23, 2014
Posts: 100
Location: Donnelly,ID
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 Posted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 9:09 pm Post subject: |
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| Tram wrote: |
| MaximumFinishes wrote: |
Already gettin much needed advice. Thanks Donnie!
P.S. The pan should still be a good match though, right? |
That's a Peru Green '68 - don't you dare chop it up!!!  |
After I gave her a bath, and stripped the Hantavirus infested interior, I figured it was too nice to cut up. I might be "green" at this but I'm not completely stupid. I figure all this baby needs is brakes, some pan work, interior, and TU. After that she should be road worthy. A little body work after that and this might be my coolest car ever! (Oh, and that pesky little title issue.  )
As far as the separation issue...I was also planning on using the trolly jack method with the wheels in place to move. I kinda thought I should engine, tranny, wheels, but I thought I might be able to get away with it. Prolly not.
Thanks guys,
Max
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'64 Type 3 "Noback" - Frank
'68 Squareback - Charlie
'73 Westy - Mac
'98 Honda CR-V - Dee
'97 Subaru Impreza Outback - Dennis |
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MonT3
Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2012
Posts: 1988
Location: South Dakota
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| Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 5:50 am Post subject: |
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| MaximumFinishes wrote: |
| Tram wrote: |
| MaximumFinishes wrote: |
Already gettin much needed advice. Thanks Donnie!
P.S. The pan should still be a good match though, right? |
That's a Peru Green '68 - don't you dare chop it up!!! |
After I gave her a bath, and stripped the Hantavirus infested interior, I figured it was too nice to cut up. I might be "green" at this but I'm not completely stupid. I figure all this baby needs is brakes, some pan work, interior, and TU. After that she should be road worthy. A little body work after that and this might be my coolest car ever! (Oh, and that pesky little title issue. )
As far as the separation issue...I was also planning on using the trolly jack method with the wheels in place to move. I kinda thought I should engine, tranny, wheels, but I thought I might be able to get away with it. Prolly not.
Thanks guys,
Max |
Not sure what kinds of resources you may have accessible to you or how many people are available to help out in moving the shell off the pan. But you can build a stand and move the shell to it. Once I removed the engine from the shell, I removed all fenders and doors. Then went onto removing the pan bolts as well as the bolts that hold the front beam mount points as well as the rear portion of the suspension/pan and any other cables. Ensured I disconnected the steering column from the steering box. Tried to make it as lite and as easy as possible to remove. Once all that was taken care of, I lifted the front end and slipped a 4x4 on top of the front tire and then used a motorcycle jack on the back end with a couple of landscaping blocks with a 2x4 set just under the bumper brackets. Once I was able to lift the back end off the pan and had a good gap to slip a 4x4 over the rear tired, I did just that. Once that was done I had my stand ready to go, I shifted the body over to the stand. The tranny was easy to remove when you have accessibility to it while the shell is off. Everyone goes about it differently. But whatever you do, be safe about it and don’t chance getting hurt. As for the title, You have time to get that so get your paperwork submitted. Welcome to the community and enjoy your new project AND remember it’s supposed to be fun.
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MonT3
67 Squareback
64 Squareback
63 Squareback
Engine rebuild
Trailer rebuild |
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MaximumFinishes
Samba Member
Joined: August 23, 2014
Posts: 100
Location: Donnelly,ID
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| Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 7:28 am Post subject: |
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Thanks MonT3! Great advice. It's been challenging already but it's a TON of fun!
I'm gonna have to move the discussion about the SB to another thread as it is now no longer destined to just be Frankie's Bride. I will continue Frank's progress here. I done went and got myself two projects on accident*. 
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'64 Type 3 "Noback" - Frank
'68 Squareback - Charlie
'73 Westy - Mac
'98 Honda CR-V - Dee
'97 Subaru Impreza Outback - Dennis |
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MaximumFinishes
Samba Member
Joined: August 23, 2014
Posts: 100
Location: Donnelly,ID
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| Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 6:06 am Post subject: |
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Here are the pics of the body bolts that had the internal mount break. Do I have to cut into it to get them out?
Also, the stuck door is preventing me from taking off passenger fender. Would drilling out the lock mechanism help me get to the stuck lock?
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'64 Type 3 "Noback" - Frank
'68 Squareback - Charlie
'73 Westy - Mac
'98 Honda CR-V - Dee
'97 Subaru Impreza Outback - Dennis |
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MonT3
Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2012
Posts: 1988
Location: South Dakota
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| Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 6:24 am Post subject: |
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I was after a front footwell section (whole front section you're working on) at a yard and had the same thing happen. I took a cutting (fresh disc) wheel to it. I made a cut across the top of the bolt then cut between the bolt head and washer. I take it you may have some rot up front here? Looks like it in your last pic. Not sure if you got the bolts to that are up front as well. They bolt to the front beam to the body. I think they're 15m or 17m. Hope this helps. Hang in there.
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MonT3
67 Squareback
64 Squareback
63 Squareback
Engine rebuild
Trailer rebuild |
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ataraxia
Samba Member
Joined: March 19, 2010
Posts: 4504
Location: Illinois
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| Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 7:30 am Post subject: |
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| MaximumFinishes wrote: |
Here are the pics of the body bolts that had the internal mount break. Do I have to cut into it to get them out?
Also, the stuck door is preventing me from taking off passenger fender. Would drilling out the lock mechanism help me get to the stuck lock?
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Drilling out the lock is only going to help if it's actually the lock that's keeping the door from opening...but you can get to it from inside the car as well without drilling the lock. If you pull the door panels off, you can reach up and unlatch the door if the push button is the issue. With a small flat head screwdriver you can remove the pin from the lock.
I had to do this once on a car that had a mechanism that broke in the 'closed' position and I didn't want to risk damage to the door. |
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22413
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 9:23 am Post subject: |
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Yeah cut the bolt heads off those pan bolts, as there's a captured thread plate inside the body portion that will need to get adjusted (or re-made).
Ataraxia has the right idea on the door. You'll probably have to "sacrifice" the panel to the lock gods, in order to get in there to release the door. It's a PIA, but that's about the only way in. Drilling the lock just makes a mess, and gives you something else to replace. 
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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MaximumFinishes
Samba Member
Joined: August 23, 2014
Posts: 100
Location: Donnelly,ID
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| Posted: Fri Sep 19, 2014 5:47 am Post subject: |
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| Bobnotch wrote: |
| Ataraxia has the right idea on the door. You'll probably have to "sacrifice" the panel to the lock gods, in order to get in there to release the door. It's a PIA, but that's about the only way in. Drilling the lock just makes a mess, and gives you something else to replace. |
Do you mean I have to cut the metal part of the door panel? The cardboard paneling is gone and I can see up in the door but can't see where the lock mechanism connects to even get a small screwdriver in there. I've been trying to see how it would be done looking at the drivers door and just can't see the light. 
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'64 Type 3 "Noback" - Frank
'68 Squareback - Charlie
'73 Westy - Mac
'98 Honda CR-V - Dee
'97 Subaru Impreza Outback - Dennis |
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eyetzr 
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Joined: October 09, 2013
Posts: 1425
Location: Toronto, Ontario. Canada
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| Posted: Fri Sep 19, 2014 6:01 am Post subject: |
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It is a little tricky to see in there at the best of times. Spray some lube all around the latch assy. & see (if) you can see the rods moving all the parts, door lock button pulls up . The last 'stuck' door I dealt with, I held the inside handle open & did a body slam against the door, popped open. As last resort I might cut a door open, but unless you have spares & the door is crap, try to open without cutting.
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I think he meant "rare", as in "not well-done" |
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ataraxia
Samba Member
Joined: March 19, 2010
Posts: 4504
Location: Illinois
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| Posted: Fri Sep 19, 2014 7:43 am Post subject: |
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If you remove the window glass/regulator, it'll get you more space to work and see what you need to do.
You shouldn't need to cut the metal on the door to get it open. The locks aren't that complex. |
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22413
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Fri Sep 19, 2014 8:52 am Post subject: |
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| MaximumFinishes wrote: |
| Bobnotch wrote: |
| Ataraxia has the right idea on the door. You'll probably have to "sacrifice" the panel to the lock gods, in order to get in there to release the door. It's a PIA, but that's about the only way in. Drilling the lock just makes a mess, and gives you something else to replace. |
Do you mean I have to cut the metal part of the door panel? The cardboard paneling is gone and I can see up in the door but can't see where the lock mechanism connects to even get a small screwdriver in there. I've been trying to see how it would be done looking at the drivers door and just can't see the light. |
NO. There should be a black boxed section covering the lock assembly. It's held on by a single 6mm screw (10mm hex head). Remove the screw, and the "U" channel rubber from it, then pull it down and out of the way. Now you should be able to access the lock/latch assembly. 
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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ataraxia
Samba Member
Joined: March 19, 2010
Posts: 4504
Location: Illinois
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| Posted: Fri Sep 19, 2014 8:54 am Post subject: |
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| one4house wrote: |
Ladies and gentleman, it's official. WE HAVE A HOARDER.  |
It's damn near a requirement with ownership of an early Type 3. |
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MaximumFinishes
Samba Member
Joined: August 23, 2014
Posts: 100
Location: Donnelly,ID
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| Posted: Fri Sep 19, 2014 8:55 pm Post subject: |
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| Bobnotch wrote: |
| NO. There should be a black boxed section covering the lock assembly. It's held on by a single 6mm screw (10mm hex head). Remove the screw, and the "U" channel rubber from it, then pull it down and out of the way. Now you should be able to access the lock/latch assembly. |
I'm fairly sure you're talking about this screw (already removed):
To take out this piece:
Which I had no luck moving after removing said screw.  I pulled aside the U rubber and grabbed ahold of the black metal and couldn't get it to move. It's frustrating when you think you're doing it right only to get nowhere.
_________________
'64 Type 3 "Noback" - Frank
'68 Squareback - Charlie
'73 Westy - Mac
'98 Honda CR-V - Dee
'97 Subaru Impreza Outback - Dennis |
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MaximumFinishes
Samba Member
Joined: August 23, 2014
Posts: 100
Location: Donnelly,ID
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| Posted: Fri Sep 19, 2014 8:58 pm Post subject: |
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| ataraxia wrote: |
| If you remove the window glass/regulator, it'll get you more space to work and see what you need to do. |
I thought that would be a convenient thing to do...only I can't get the window crank off. Man, I really can't figure sh!t out.
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'64 Type 3 "Noback" - Frank
'68 Squareback - Charlie
'73 Westy - Mac
'98 Honda CR-V - Dee
'97 Subaru Impreza Outback - Dennis |
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Mike Fisher
Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006
Posts: 17970
Location: Eugene, OR
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| Posted: Sat Sep 20, 2014 7:24 am Post subject: |
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The '66-'67 at least window cranks are held on by a skinny C clip.
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69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey |
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22413
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Sat Sep 20, 2014 9:08 am Post subject: |
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| MaximumFinishes wrote: |
| Bobnotch wrote: |
| NO. There should be a black boxed section covering the lock assembly. It's held on by a single 6mm screw (10mm hex head). Remove the screw, and the "U" channel rubber from it, then pull it down and out of the way. Now you should be able to access the lock/latch assembly. |
I'm fairly sure you're talking about this screw (already removed):
To take out this piece:
Which I had no luck moving after removing said screw. I pulled aside the U rubber and grabbed ahold of the black metal and couldn't get it to move. It's frustrating when you think you're doing it right only to get nowhere. |
You might need to use a pair of vice grips (to help get some leverage), as it's clipped into the door post/window channel.
Mike, the 61 thru 65 cars also use a clip for the window handle. But, the slots for the clip are thinner than most of the currently available tools out there. 
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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Mike Fisher
Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006
Posts: 17970
Location: Eugene, OR
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| Posted: Sat Sep 20, 2014 10:16 am Post subject: |
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EverettB says he puts a big towel down before he pops out the C clip so as not to lose them!  I have an angled/pointed dental tool to hook C clips.
_________________
https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey |
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EverettB
Administrator
Joined: April 11, 2000
Posts: 69809
Location: Phoenix Metro
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| Posted: Sat Sep 20, 2014 10:47 pm Post subject: |
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| Mike Fisher wrote: |
| EverettB says he puts a big towel down before he pops out the C clip so as not to lose them! I have an angled/pointed dental tool to hook C clips. |
True, I have done that, if it falls it sticks to the towel.
This prevents it bouncing somewhere weird or if you are like me and do stuff on your lawn, the grass likes to swallow parts.
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22413
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Sun Sep 21, 2014 8:16 am Post subject: |
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| Mike Fisher wrote: |
| I have an angled/pointed dental tool to hook C clips. |
I use a notched section of 1.5 inch wide band strap to remove them, as it's thinner than the tools out there.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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MaximumFinishes
Samba Member
Joined: August 23, 2014
Posts: 100
Location: Donnelly,ID
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| Posted: Sun Sep 21, 2014 8:22 pm Post subject: |
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Great Success! The door is finally open!
I used a very thin flat head screwdriver to remove the C clips (the drivers side slid out slowly while the other one sprung out, hit the head rest, and fell gently at my side. ) and removed the window. I then was able to get the metal plate out after removing this clip
from the window seal. Pulling and wrenching on it wouldn't have worked without this clip removed.
I saw that the opening mechs weren't engaging the door release so I pushed down on it with a long screwdriver and, eureka! Once it released it was so stiff I was hesitant to open it all the way so we hit the upper hinge with some oil and worked it slowly. Now I just need to find out why it's not engaging.
Thanks for the help guys.
Max
_________________
'64 Type 3 "Noback" - Frank
'68 Squareback - Charlie
'73 Westy - Mac
'98 Honda CR-V - Dee
'97 Subaru Impreza Outback - Dennis |
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