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Loss of brake pedal pressure
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Strato56
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PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2014 9:54 pm    Post subject: Loss of brake pedal pressure Reply with quote

I've had this issue for a while now, I have brakes but the pedal goes almost to the floor. When I bleed them I get a good pedal again, but over time, 4-5 months, it losses pressure again. I just checked all the lines, reservoir, and master cylinder and don't see any evidence of leaks. All pads are adjusted properly, ebrake is also adjusted properly. I did not pull all the drums to check slave cylinders. When I restored the car, I did not bench bleed the master cylinder. Would that be the issue? Any help would be highly appreciated!
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66brm
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PostPosted: Sat May 03, 2014 4:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you driving the car much or is it just sitting for extended periods? I find if I don't use my cars often the same thing occurs, but after a couple of applications the pedal comes back to me, so to speak
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Strato56
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PostPosted: Sat May 03, 2014 9:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

66brm wrote:
Are you driving the car much or is it just sitting for extended periods? I find if I don't use my cars often the same thing occurs, but after a couple of applications the pedal comes back to me, so to speak


It rains in Portland about 6 months of the year, so it sits more than I'd like, not my daily driver obviously... Maybe that's all it is?
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andk5591
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PostPosted: Sat May 03, 2014 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My cars are parked all winter (November to March) - never have an issue with brakes. So I don't buy this coming from the car sitting. Bench bleeding wouldnt be an issue at this point. BUT are you getting air in the lines when you bleed them? Wonder if you have a loose connection.
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128vw
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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2014 10:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you have to add fluid before you bleed them? If not, you might have a bad master cyl.
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Strato56
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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2014 5:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

128vw wrote:
Do you have to add fluid before you bleed them? If not, you might have a bad master cyl.


Thought about that, it was new 10 years ago now, so definitely could be the problem. Just not sure...
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Center Pin
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PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2014 9:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you bleed them... more air from one corner? Same from all four? Is it an original style master or has it been upgraded to a dual circuit? What is the fluid level in the reservoir doing over time dropping/rising?
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Strato56
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PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2014 10:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Center Pin wrote:
When you bleed them... more air from one corner? Same from all four? Is it an original style master or has it been upgraded to a dual circuit? What is the fluid level in the reservoir doing over time dropping/rising?


Fluid is full, it doesn't drop. Last time I bled them there was air in the rear, very little in the front. I haven't bled them again yet, was looking for a leak first or another "problem" that would explain the loss of pedal pressure. I think I'm going to just try to make sure all the lines are tight and bleed the system again and see if it holds. I'll check the wheel cylinders also and make sure there is no leaking there. Doesn't look like any leaking in the lines.
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Strato56
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 9:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, need some more help on this. Bled the brakes again and the left rear won't go down very easily. Very little fluid comes out also. Also the left front there is so much air and it never goes away, maybe one bleed and then it's back. Very small air bubbles. Seems like I have a leak somewhere sucking air into the system, I just can't see where. All the lines are tight and I don't see any evidence of leaks. Any thoughts on where to start? Would prefer to not replace all the brake lines and cylinders if possible... Thanks.
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Aussiebug
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2014 3:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The flexible fuel lines tend to swell internally with age, restricting fluid flow; so if they are more than about 5 years old that might be the cause of the hard-to-bleed rear wheel. Or there's crud behind the bleed valve.

It's just possible that a cracked flexible line might be causing the problem with the bubbles in the front wheel too, but unlikely - using the brake pedal would almost certainly cause a fluid leak at any crack. So the bubbles for the front are more likely to be coming from the MC itself - the pushrod activates the front brakes first, then the rears, so air COULD be getting in past a bad seal nearest the pedal. The left front getting more air into it is probably because it's a shorter run on a LHD car than the right front.

I presume that the brakes are properly adjusted so there is a few mm of freeplay in the MC pushrod? If not, the pushrod wont return completely to uncover the compensating ports to return fluid to the reservoir, and that can cause problems with bleeding the brakes.
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3foldfolly
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2014 6:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would remove all the drums and inspect the wheel cylinders.
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drscope
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2014 7:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Start by pulling your wheel cylinders. You live in a high humidity area and brake fluid will absorb moisture, so it isn't uncommon to have water in the fluid.

It usually sits in the wheel cylinders where it rusts or corrodes the inner walls of the cylinders.

Or, sometimes the bore of the cylinders just gets nasty enough that the piston actually sticks. If you have a sticking piston, it can result in the same sort of symptoms you are describing.

And while you have it all apart, if it's been a while since the flex lines were replaced it may be a good idea to replace all 4 of them as well. As already pointed out, they are a multi layer hose and you can't see what may be coming apart internally to restrict the flow.

Sometimes they won't allow pressure to go to the wheel cylinder and other times they won't allow it to return. They are cause of a lot of seemingly unusual brake problems.
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