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1984 Vanagon
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HudsonN
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PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2014 6:15 am    Post subject: 1984 Vanagon Reply with quote

Long story short a long time family friend gave me his 1984 VW Vanagon.

Things been sitting on blocks in a barn for roughly 10 years. He put a new motor in it (some shop in Albany, NY did actually) and the new motor was from somewhere in California. Hasn't been driven more than 50 miles with the new motor in it. Thing ran perfect but he said something like it would randomly spit and sputter and shoot gas onto the road and something about the injectors.

Where would you guys start with this thing to turn it back into a dd? The thing has incredible sentimental value to him so I know he wants to see the thing back on the road again.

- Rip it apart?
- Replace the fuel injector system with a carb?
- Get rid of all electronics and make it totally mechanical?

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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2014 6:31 am    Post subject: Re: 1984 Vanagon Reply with quote

HudsonN wrote:


- Rip it apart? -and make it totally undriveable
- Replace the fuel injector system with a carb? -and make it totally undriveable
- Get rid of all electronics and make it totally mechanical? -and make it totally undriveable



Trouble shout it according to the manual and fix it the way the factory intended
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dobryan
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PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2014 6:51 am    Post subject: Re: 1984 Vanagon Reply with quote

HudsonN wrote:


Where would you guys start with this thing to turn it back into a dd? The thing has incredible sentimental value to him so I know he wants to see the thing back on the road again.

- Rip it apart?
- Replace the fuel injector system with a carb?
- Get rid of all electronics and make it totally mechanical?


- Rip it apart?
Not at first, leave any body/interior stuff for later. Focus on the engine, tires, and brakes and make it mechanically safe to drive.

- Replace the fuel injector system with a carb?
Nope, fix the stock setup. Plenty of info on the samba for that.

- Get rid of all electronics and make it totally mechanical?
Nope, see above.

You didn't mention going thru the tires, brakes, fuel system, lines, and tank seals, etc.
I would expect much good is going on with those existing systems. Expect a rebuild of those components.
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HudsonN
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PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2014 8:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like a plan.

I know it needs new tires and most likely brake lines and pads (honestly expect this to be drums all the way around but maybe ill be pleasantly surprised.)

As for the engine would you start with basic maintenance and then see if it cranks or would you start rebuilding it? It is a 4 speed manual but the clutch feels like its not even connected. Goes all the way to the floor without any pressure.

Can anyone link me to some of the information on these? Can't search on my phone. Will do some searching when I get home.

Thanks guys.
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PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2014 8:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Put a new fuel line hose in it.
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dobryan
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PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2014 8:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

HudsonN wrote:

Can anyone link me to some of the information on these? Can't search on my phone. Will do some searching when I get home.

Thanks guys.


Tons of good info here.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=525798
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Building a bus for travel in Europe (euroBus)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=695371

The Western Syncro build
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=746794
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Steve M.
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PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2014 9:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fresh new gas if you haven't done that already,
due to age check the fuel lines as been suggested. Don't just look at them-touch them to look for rotting.
Really should just replace them with new instead of checking them for peace of mind. SAE 30R9 rating on the fuel lines to replace-accept no substitutes!

Check all your vacuum lines and under the "grey thingy" in the front right corner of the engine compartment look under it at the rubber fitting for coming apart.

Ya need the manual to do the checklist of things to check on the Fuel injection system. I wouldn't entertain the thought of converting to manual as if you do the checklist you'll probably find the problem and you will know from experience now what does what in the system. The system actually does work!
Think Bus Depot has the lowest prices for most things and they are close to you being down in Pennsylvania.
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veloandy
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PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2014 9:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

HudsonN wrote:
It is a 4 speed manual but the clutch feels like its not even connected. Goes all the way to the floor without any pressure.


The clutch uses a hydraulic master/slave cylinder. It sounds like the hydraulics are toast. The clutch shares a fluid reservoir with the brakes and the brake hydraulics are probably in sorry shape too. Even if the brake pedal feels firm, it's probably not a good idea for to count on the brakes regularly stopping you until you go through and inspect/replace the brake hydraulics.

If I were in your shoes, I wouldn't worry about doing the stuff to make it a save driver (brakes, fuel lines, tires) until I got it at least running. I bet bad gas is your #1 issue preventing it running. If I were you I'd:
1. Pull the feed and return fuel lines off the tank and plug the outlets. Stick the inlet line into a gas can with fresh gas, and put the outlet line in a clear jar. *
2. Put in a battery that works. Turn the key to "on" (don't try to start it), and crack open the AFM and turn the slider so the fuel pump turns on. This will pump fuel through the system. when the fuel flowing into your jar looks and smells like fresh gas (instead of varnish), turn off the fuel pump and put both the inlet and outlet in the gas can.
3. Check the oil...make sure there is some fluid in there that looks kind of oil-like. If it's low, top it off with fresh oil.
4. Pull the shifter into neutral. Disconnect the coil and crank the engine until the oil light goes out.
5. Reconnect the coil and see if it will start! If not, troubleshoot it as described in the FAQ here: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=525798

* Realize that you're "living on the edge" here...having a fire extinguisher, not smoking, basically paying attention, and assuming responsibility for your own safety are all pretty important.

Once it runs, THEN start worrying about fuel lines, brakes, clutch, tires, new fluids, etc. Having it be able to start up will be a big motivator to get everything else in good shape -- and pouring a ton of money and time into getting brand new brake hydraulics, tires, and fuel lines on an immobile piece of barn art can be a total motivation sink.

Good luck!
-Andy
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Steve M.
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PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2014 10:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

"barn art"...I like that!
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2014 10:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your fuel is toast, replace it
Your fuel lines are toast replace them with 30r9 or 30r14 high pressure hose
Your tires are most likely toast, replace
Your brakes are most likely toast, replace everything
Your clutch hydraulics are likely toast, replace or rebuild both the master and slave cylinder
Your clutch disc is probably rusted the the flywheel and pressure plate, read up on how to break it loose

Your battery is toast, replace
Your battery cables are most likely toast including the tranny ground strap, check and replace if necessary, replacement ends are just a breakdown waiting to happen.
Your lifters are probably soft, read up on how to get them to pump up
Your tranny may have internal rust, change the oil(s) and run it so long as it seems to work well.

Read up on maintaining the cooling system
Check the condition of all the cooling system hoses and monitor them once the vehicle is back in use. They are older than half the population of the country.
Drain the cooling system and refill with a 50/50 mix of long life antifreeze, afterwards add Subaru Coolant Conditioner annually.

You are still going to find a lot of other stuff that is going to go wrong over the next few years of use.
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HudsonN
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PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2014 7:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been reading through all of the information on these vanagons and the only thing i can say is wow.

I thought Jeepforums had a lot of information. The amount of information on these vanagons is mindboggling. I can read all day to my hearts content about these things.

Just making me wonder what i actually need to do. If i followed every single thing that's recomended on this website i'd end up pulling the engine, rebuilding the whole thing, and then practically replacing everything else.

Considering it has a new motor i think if it cranks and runs smooth i'll leave it alone for the time being.

Time will tell. This should be interesting. I'll keep you guys updated with pictures and information.
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HudsonN
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 12:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well guys look at what I got tonight.

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campism
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 4:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you actually own that trailer you were destined to bring home a Vanagon sooner or later.
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tarandusVDub
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 8:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

HudsonN wrote:
Just making me wonder what i actually need to do. If i followed every single thing that's recomended on this website i'd end up pulling the engine, rebuilding the whole thing, and then practically replacing everything else.


Well, that's just for starters.
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nemobuscaptain
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 8:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
Your fuel is toast, replace it
Your fuel lines are toast replace them with 30r9 or 30r14 high pressure hose
Your tires are most likely toast, replace
Your brakes are most likely toast, replace everything
Your clutch hydraulics are likely toast, replace or rebuild both the master and slave cylinder
Your clutch disc is probably rusted the the flywheel and pressure plate, read up on how to break it loose

Your battery is toast, replace
Your battery cables are most likely toast including the tranny ground strap, check and replace if necessary, replacement ends are just a breakdown waiting to happen.
Your lifters are probably soft, read up on how to get them to pump up
Your tranny may have internal rust, change the oil(s) and run it so long as it seems to work well.

Read up on maintaining the cooling system
Check the condition of all the cooling system hoses and monitor them once the vehicle is back in use. They are older than half the population of the country.
Drain the cooling system and refill with a 50/50 mix of long life antifreeze, afterwards add Subaru Coolant Conditioner annually.

You are still going to find a lot of other stuff that is going to go wrong over the next few years of use.


Yup. Free busses aren't cheap.
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HudsonN
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 2:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anyone know what this wire is? I found it hooked up to nothing. It goes under the exhaust manifold and disappears.

Going to pull the fuel lines off when I get home from work. I take it I have to crawl under the van and pull them off from the bottom of the tank?

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chojinchef
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 2:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Drop the whole tank. You will need to flush it, replace the grommets on top and then do your lines.

Reseal kit available from usual suspects, as is a fuel line kit with all the goodies you will need for injectors, rails, etc.

I think that wire is the connector for the early versions of a computer diagnostic, connects to the flux capacitor.
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Westified
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 3:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For the flux capacitor. It plugs in here:

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Not really, like chojinchef said it was for an old diagnostic tool. Very Happy
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dhaavers
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 7:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

HudsonN wrote:
Anyone know what this wire is?

Everyone knows that no one knows what that wire is for... Rolling Eyes

Kidding - sorry. TDC indicator used in the factory and never since.
Ignore it or chop it off.

Seriously.

PS: Keep us posted on your progress!
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HudsonN
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2014 10:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Getting around to working on this thing. About time, i know.

Few questions. Just bought a new battery for it. I can see the battery under the passenger seat but i can't get to it. There are two levers on the right side of the passenger seat and either they're frozen or they don't allow the seat to flip up so i can get to the battery.

Can someone please explain how i'm suppose to get the old battery out before i break something? Haha.

In the above post someone mentioned "crack open the AFM and turn the slider so the fuel pump turns on."

What is the AFM and how exactly do i "turn the slider"?

Thanks again.
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