1960 Sealing Wax Red Panel

hoagy86 · Posted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 2:50 pm Post subject:

Eric&barb- thanks thats what I was guessing they all would need punched out too If I use the original. I will lube up those screws they are pretty rusty the joys of rust makes a simple job so hard. Do they sell replacement hinge rod that would go through. Its bent a little here and there you can see in the one pic.

cru62 · Posted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 3:05 pm Post subject:

If you can get the hinge-half of the body you are golden. Unfortunately, I think that will be a chore. There is no way to apply penetrating oil from the inside of the bus due to a "top hat" which covers that area. If you could tilt the bus slightly to one side, you could pour something (I prefer a 50/50 mix of Automatic Trans Fluid and acetone) on one side and apply until it appears on the other side. There is nothing covering the corners.

If you can get the screws to come out, well, YEAH! Most likely, you will be drilling them out. Not so YEAH!

Reuniting the hinge halfs should not be a problem. If I'm not mistaken it is the same diameter as the headliner support rods. If I remember I will measure what I have and let you know. You could even use stainless metric rod.

Please don't use another rear hatch. The one that is on there is just too well matched to the rest of the bus. And that thing is cleaning up amazingly!
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Eric&Barb · Posted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 3:12 pm Post subject:

You will have to find a source for the pin. Get a good measurement of the diameter with a 0-1" micrometer, and soak out all the rust in the hinge halves with acid.
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Eric&Barb · Posted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 3:23 pm Post subject:

Any screws that do not come out, use a welder to weld a gob of metal to the screw head or even weld a nut to each, and use vise grips to turn loose. The heat will expand the screw, crush the rust into dust in there that is making it a press fit in there now. Spray some water over the hot fastener to increase the release from the rust.
Just remember to wiggle back and forth each fastener CW/CCW to get them to first move a tiny bit, then a bit more and even more, before trying to just turn them loose.

If you do try to drill them out (not advised for a novice upside down), use a LH set of drill bits and start out with 1/8" drill and work up a size or two till the screw either comes out due to the LH drill rotation or you have the screw drilled out.
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hoagy86 · Posted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 3:57 pm Post subject:

Thanks cru66 For adding to the help I am soaking them as best as I can. Thanks again eric& barb I will try and keep soaking them and give them a try in a couple days. If anyone has a good source feel free. Thanks cleaned up the inside a bit I'll post a picture tomorrow.

MrBusCo · Posted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 5:10 pm Post subject:

Use e&b's method. I had a similar issue and welded a bolt to the screw and it came right out.
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cru62 · Posted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 5:13 pm Post subject:

Eric&Barb · Posted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 5:54 pm Post subject:

Glad to help. Get an apex or screw driver that fits the screw properly. Yes, there are different sizes. You always want to be putting more effort into pushing the tip of the apex/driver into the screw to keep it from popping out of the head and stripping than the effort you put into turning. Try tightening a tiny bit and then slightly loosen, get the screw to move at all is your best bet to getting it out. If you can get a screw to turn loose about 1/4 turn you have most likely won the battle.

Used a speed handle with apexes in the USAF to remove many a stripped screw....

Never use an easy out on a stuck fastener.
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Stocknazi · Samba Member Joined: June 18, 2004 Posts: 5150

Heat those screws up; You may burn the paint on the hinge half, but you will save the og screw threads.
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hoagy86 · Posted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 10:03 am Post subject:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Here is a picture of the part of hinge still attached to the bus you can see the Philip head are barely recognizable as quite rusty...thinking that heat just wont do much for me I think Im going to have to drill them out. ill keep soaking and see.

Here is after a bit of cleaning has oil and grease so the water and rag wasn't getting it all but its a start

I'm still considering another hatch as it has rust damage at bottom along with this top where the hinge is separating and here is the last pic of the whole thing after I have been trying to remove old paint and rust

hoagy86 · Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 1:16 pm Post subject:

Here a picture of my og front bench

Got my Matt Miller Seat covers in the mail and wanted to show you what mine look like.

Look at that comparison I'm very happy with them, now I just need to install them this weekend and give ya a after picture. Cant wait to see how they will turn out Dancing

BulliBill · Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 1:35 pm Post subject:

Congratulations on getting a set of Matt's covers, they are the very best available! The texture of the pebbling and color are spot on! Follow his directions and use his kit ingredients and you'll be very happy!

I have the very first three bench seat kits that he made in two of my Buses, you'll see kit #1 for sure at the upcoming BNNTA weekend in the '59 SWR DD Panel. I had new glass windshields cut locally here near STL for about $100 for both, but if you want correct logos in the glass, figure about $230 or so from suppliers on the Left coast. Keep up the good work!

Bill Bowman
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Thanks for any help!

zuggbug · Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 5:10 pm Post subject:

Awesome, thanks for sharing. I am waiting on my black cover for the westy. Hope to have it soon.
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ritchiet002 · Posted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 11:21 am Post subject:

I like the image lower/left by your feet Wink

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hoagy86 · Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 1:42 pm Post subject:

wow its been awhile since I updated how the panel is coming. It really hasn't made huge progress I took a break on the hatch hinges and jumped it to seat cover project that got put on hold for more supplies. Here's a bit of what's been going on with it while its been sitting in the garage.
So Pulled the 36hp engine that was in there when I bought it

Next I had to pick the locked gas cap then removing the og gas tank

Ahw.. find numerous holes from rust at the bottom and a nice nest behind the tank

Still long ways to go but slowly going at it little by little removing trying to get paint back to original.
before

after some time

That's about it for now, not too much longer before I drive up by Chicago to pick up my 40hp that is being built for it. Cool

hoagy86 · Posted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 6:46 am Post subject:

Just wanted to keep up to date as to what is going on with the panel, still in garage. Haha not to much progress just been waiting for parts I'm picking up my motor next weekend I believe and a week ago I got a call from benco letting me know they are starting on my transaxle assembly so that should be a couple weeks with shipping from California. I am in the process of cleaning out the engine bay for the new transaxle and engine. What does everyone recommend to clean it with sandblast, sander, wirewheel. I want it cleaned and all painted up. I tried some speed out screw extractor for the hinge screws but only was able to get 1 out of 9 out. Kinda dissappointed with there preformance. I tried a welder but couldn't get a good connection and my friend wanted to go baremetal on my bus I got worried as I'm trying to save as much og paint as possible anyone have experience with having trouble welding please let me know as I'm new to welding And have seen people welding without removing paint for the ground to clamp to. Thanks Paul

Eric&Barb · Posted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 9:52 am Post subject:

Just clean down to bare metal spots on the jack point/s. Later you can sand those spots, zinc epoxy primer and paint.

As far as the rust in the engine compartment, it depends on how much and how much time you want to take. Sandblasting works fast, but does remove more metal than other means, and then requires thorough cleaning out of all the sand that gets everywhere to avoid future rust problems.

Or sanding, wire wheel, phosphoric acid and repeat till completely clean of rust. This will remove the rust and least metal as possible.

Either way use zinc epoxy primer and paint afterward.
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hoagy86 · Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 6:44 am Post subject:

Thanks Eric and barb for excellent suggestion on the jack point I was thinking there has to be a spot hidden enough to use then respray thanks I will try that and see how it turns out.

hoagy86 · Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 7:58 am Post subject:

Well Friday oct.17th my wife had our first kid baby boy named Evan came out weighing 9lbs 15.3 oz big boy. This was amazing we should get to bring him home today..he had a few issues but is getting better each and everyday kinda like the swr panel because today I received my rgb to rgb from benco thanks guys the rear end was Delivered on a pallet to my house looking good and clean. I'll get a picture when I can as for some reason I couldn't figure out how to load pictures from my phone computer is down at the moment. Like a said it's a slow procress getting it back on the road but I am happy with how its coming along. The engine is in it's final stages too. Just wanted to keep it up to date with what's going on with it. I have been trying to find an og fuel tank but haven't had much luck so thinking
I might just go with the ww one if I can't find one (if anyone has one it's the early without sending unit) still waiting on the horse hair pad to get my front bench done. Also just been wiring wheeling rust and paint overspay removal when I have time 10-30 min daily.

Pinetops · Samba Member Joined: March 24, 2007 Posts: 2987

Congratulations on your baby boy!

Sounds like you're chipping away at the bus! As far as the tank goes, I'm liking my WW tank, the quality is just great. I know a lot of folks would disagree with me on this and I generally like to keep things original but unless you can find a really clean OG tank I would just get a new one since there is now a quality reproduction tank available. A questionable fuel tank in a vehicle prone to fire just isn't worth it IMO.

I'll stay tuned to see your progress!
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