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The Baja Bug - First Timer's Thread
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EnjoyNukaCola
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2014 4:17 pm    Post subject: The Baja Bug - First Timer's Thread Reply with quote

http://imgur.com/a/usbXS

Picked up my first baja bug, first VW and first car today. I think I got away with between a good and great deal, so she looks nice but will need some love mechanically.

- 1972
- 1600 single port
- Holley 2100 Bug Spray carb (which I am learning is so so)
- What looks to be an added breather box, oil filter and cooler
- Cut and turned front beam, may be adjustable

Got it home under its own power with some sketchy brakes and avoiding the freeway where possible (WINDY day in the high desert too). Was a quart low of oil so we topped it off halfway home. (That's when it decided to start leaking).

My plans are to check out the braking system. I've already fiddled with the pad adjusters and brought the rears in a little tighter, so after pumping the pedal a few times the overall pedal movement is less, but they need to be bled. It should have had a dual circuit master but it has been changed back to a single, I may need to replace it again with a dual. Hook up the parking break, throw in some lap belts, replace the pedal spring. Doesn't seem to want to idle too well this morning, and it seems I'm missing a rod on the carb. No idea if it worked its way off on the way home. First time tuning carbs. The ball joints will need attention eventually. Motor will need a tune up with new plugs, fresh fluid and a valve adjustment (which I have never done before). Has a minor leak. The body is rock solid and the floorpan is pristine.


Last edited by EnjoyNukaCola on Thu Jul 10, 2014 8:43 pm; edited 4 times in total
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fishybastard
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2014 5:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks good from the pics! I dig it. Sounds like you've got a good start to getting it on the road and being a good driver. Congrats on the purchase Smile
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HERC
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 12, 2014 7:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sounds like you have a good head on your shoulders
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muddbug
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 12, 2014 7:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sweet looking ride,i dig the front seats,what size rims an tires are those?
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 12, 2014 12:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like a well built baja. They all need some attention, but your starting off with a better car than most of us start off with.
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EnjoyNukaCola
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 13, 2014 1:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Howdy, here's an update.

On the way home, we stop for lunch and just then think to check the oil... a whopping quart and a half. Topped that probably-stagnant oil off with a fresh quart, when it decides to start leaking at the oil pump plate. The bug made it home before dark so I wasted no time introducing her to everyone in the neighborhood (audibly) and getting those armor-all'd tires a little bit dirty. After getting about two hours of sleep that night, I wake up the next morning, coffee in hand, and it decides to not want to idle anymore. Knowing very little about this so-called "Bugspray" my intelligent self reached for the flat head and wobbled a few screws to no avail, attempting to show the neighbors that I indeed did know what I was doing Eh?

At least it ran yesterday, but I couldn't keep it idle long enough to get out and around to the throttle linkage and play with it. Now that I've gone and messed with it, I learned that my driver also played with the mixture (with good intentions) after topping it off with a quart, which seemed to be the start of the idle problems.

Some black smoke, gassy smell, it's running way too rich. This morning it only turned over and chugged like a train... flooded. Threw on a fresh belt and new plugs (NGK BR6HS) and then it all but fired, without the smoke and gassy smell, but started leaking fuel midway at the gaskets. The jets were at more of a drip than a spray and I'm assuming that the inside looks like the outside, so it could use a good cleaning. Pulled of the carb at the base plate, soaking in fuel ATM, and I'm looking into a rebuild kit for the seals. I learned I'm not missing the choke rod, because it's been converted to electric choke with the de-choke linkage kit as well. http://www.holley.com/45-224.asp

-Doesn't leak oil from gravity, so its a pressure leak most likely around the oil pump plate. Going to get a complete engine gasket kit
-Also a drum brake kit so I can return to a dual circuit system and all new shoes, wheel cylinders and hoses (found them on here)
- Seems the first passenger-side pushrod tube, looking at the rear of the engine (cylinder 3), is dented some
- New ignition wires wouldn't hurt
- How do I find out what distributor is on there and if it needs to go? It doesn't look too bad.
- Complete valve adjust is in order (first time with that)

Classic VW "bought-it-and-now-it-doesn't-run" story...


Last edited by EnjoyNukaCola on Thu Jul 10, 2014 9:17 pm; edited 1 time in total
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EnjoyNukaCola
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Took out the pedal assembly today to get a look at the master cylinder (It's a single circuit, in a 72 WHAT!?) and fix the tacky pedals. Went smoothly for the most part, however it seems the clutch cable vanished Shocked My Bentley manual said to disconnect the cable at the rear, which I did by removing the wing nut, then pulling the cluster out should bring the cable with it. Shined a light in there but I cant see or feel anything but that main metal line inside the trans tunnel.

Also... question. The metal line that bends around the pedal cluster area, thats brakes to the rear, yeah? Whats the metal line in the trans tunnel for?

Everything makes that gritty metal-on-metal sound d'oh! Like my ghetto-rigged zip-tie handbrake? The other one is broken in there, sort of works for now just so I don't need my e-brick.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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No clutch cable...
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Both springs broken. Tied metal wire where there should be clips.
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Removed and cleaned the skid plate.

Found out I had air shocks. At ~100psi. Very Happy
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What does this button do!? Thinking horn but why it would be down there and not connected to the wheel button? (Battery is out ATM)
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Haven't done much but drive it around the block a couple times unfortunately. Needs quite a bit from seat belts to attention in the braking department, fluids, adjustments, etc. The carb set me back a few weeks by being busy and not having anything fit, that's why you shouldn't use an American carb on a German car. I needed every screwdriver I had and both extreme sizes of wrenches, more that what I'd use on this whole car... Royal pain.

More here: http://enjoynukacola.imgur.com/all/


Last edited by EnjoyNukaCola on Fri Jul 11, 2014 12:07 pm; edited 1 time in total
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dirtkeeper
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2014 6:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Button probably is a horn.. Maybe the stock one stopped working and this was the easiest fix.

If the clutch was working ...the cable is in there

Yup brake line as you mentioned.. The one in the tunnel is a gas line and of course there is a clutch tube in there too.

The clutch "hook" on the pedal assembly looks worn. Hard to see. If it is either replace or weldi up a bit so it doesn't break

If your messing around in the tunnel you may want to replace or check the shift rod bushing. These are often worn or missing and replacement makes shifting much nicer.
Nice ride
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ORANGECRUSHer
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2014 7:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

+1 on the horn button. Mine has a similar one and it's a PITA to use. It's easier to wire up a horn this way but unless you put it where it can be reached quickly it's useless... like mine.
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EnjoyNukaCola
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2014 12:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool. I have not one but two horns up front and never got around to seeing where they were hooked up to, because the wheel button did nothing. I'm 6 foot so I just noticed that new button under the dash while I was under there.

Next up is brakes. Since I have a single master, I'm going to need a dual reservoir, and probably something else for brake switches. I hope the wiring is still there for the second switch.

Can anyone comment on the brake rebuild kits Socal Auto sells? I'd opt for stainless.
> http://www.socalautoparts.com/product_info.php/aft...rs-p-13556

Alternatively, I was thinking of going disc in the front. So I could get this kit for a Ghia and find some bolt on rotors separately. (This has two wheel cylinders, so do the calipers have a mechanism built in them? This will be my first brake job BTW.)
> http://www.socalautoparts.com/product_info.php/ind...rs-p-16656

How would you rank the quality, from sub-par Chinese to solid gold?

Ordered all new cables and some stuff for the pedal assembly, so I'll wrap up the existing cables for backup. The clutch hook is a little gnarly for some reason I got tired last night and forgot my pedal assembly was sitting in some dish soap solution so now I have to wire brush the surface rust off.... Brick wall
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Mal evolent
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2014 1:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Type 1 rear brake drums will drop into Type 3 rear brake drums and disappear. you can use 4 bolt or 5 bolt wheels on Type 3 brakes. if you want a mountain car, consider T3 rear brakes.
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dirtkeeper
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2014 7:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could get these and some ghia rotors.
Caliper adapter for stock spindle. You either have to go without backing plates or get some ghia ones or do some mods

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 7:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very nice... Looks like a BAJA, not a Baja want-a-be...

If it doesn't leak oil and the brakes need attention, it's Not a VW.. Rolling Eyes

Have Fun , Be Safe, & Enjoy...
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EnjoyNukaCola
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 11:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think I'm going to stick with drums for now. The front end needs cleaning up, greasing and new ball joints so I'll rethink discs then.

Should I pull the plug on that drum brake kit? It's sort of on sale and for the money it seems like a fair deal (~40 master) (~40 for 4 wheel cylinders) (~10 hardware) (~40 pads) (~20 stainless lines). I'll also need a reservoir and possibly some brake light switches, then a full fluid flush and bleed. So about $150-160 to redo the brakes, assuming the drums are good. It's aftermarket so I'm not sure if it's EMPI or Brazilian (TRW/Varga).

I haven't checked out the pads on it right now but most likely they'll need to be replaced and the package deal is better bang for the buck.
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EnjoyNukaCola
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 1:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I need some advice on what seat belts to use. Stock would have had 3 point shoulder and lap belt being a 1972 I believe. The stock bolt locations are fine but the click-in piece for the front passenger side is broken. The aftermarket seats are poly material with covers and they are bolted to a custom raised frame made of square tubing that is then bolted to the floor (4 bolts to frame, 4 bolts to floor). The passenger seat is only mounted with two bolts to a wobbly hinge on the frame that conveniently grants access to the rear seats while giving the passenger a considerably longer hang time, like that of a slingshot. Shocked

What can I do to make this safer and do I get the belts new/ used online?

Rebuilt the pedal assembly and put it back in. Much better.
The button is a horn!
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EnjoyNukaCola
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 9:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update, don't buy the lap belts from O'Reily, they are crap. "Superior Automotive" made in China and they unbuckle with a little upward pressure. The commies are trying to kill us indirectly... Shocked

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Pedals back in a while ago, but I dinged it up putting it back together, but at least the springs are there and the pedals dont fall to the floor. Use a LOT of grease for the clutch pedal, for some reason it kept binding up when I drove that pin through, not sure why, it doesn't add friction. New cables too. Don't use white primer underneath flat black, I'm new to painting. I'll probably do it in gloss black later and treat it nice. These pedal pads any good? http://www.amazon.com/Pedal-Covers-Clutch-Accel-3-Piece/dp/B00BGDWRXI

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

That's my shift coupler, before, with the rod bushing hanging out way in the back. The coupler inserts were floating around in the tunnel below, along with some coins. (How?) I added in a whole new coupler with urethane bushings. I'll update with a photo.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Shift rod. I was pretty alarmed when I pulled it out, thinking it was bent. But I checked and learned it was done so that way.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

After some hand sanding. Also replaced the shift rod bushing thanks to help from another thread with the Ghia procedure.

Tip: If it doesn't go into first, the stop plate is on backwards, unless you're one of those blokes.[/img]


Last edited by EnjoyNukaCola on Fri Aug 08, 2014 6:17 pm; edited 1 time in total
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dustymojave
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 9:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad you're making progress.

Did you get the brake and clutch pedal stop on the floor re-set?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

The "finished" pic of the pedals looks like you did.
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For 3-point belts, I suggest direct replacements, and not the generic ones. I ain't a gonna lie to you and guarantee they are going to be better quality, But you've already found out how the others are and at least the ones "made for" the Bug are ...hmmmmmm...... more likely to fit.

For the brakes, I got a dual circuit master cylinder from Autozone with a lifetime warranty for $17.99. Not the $40 you cited in July. $12 an axle for shoes. I had some bad experiences in recent years with crappy master and wheel cylinders from VW supply houses. No trouble with the AZ ones. While your flex lines may need replacement, I don't consider the stainless ones necessarily better. For one thing, many of them are not DOT approved, which in the case of a crash caused by brake line failure, you could wind up being liable. I had one fail on my Toyota pre-runner.
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EnjoyNukaCola
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 6:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That clutch pedal stop plate was adjusted properly but after I re installed the shifter I adjusted it again and ended up stripping it, so now I have to run a longer bolt through and put a nut and washer under the floorpan.

I ended up buying the brake kit a few weeks back with everything. It's AC Industries so I'll just see how it goes. I plan on installing stuff as I go. I tried getting the axle nut off today but it's going to take something more.

I forgot to take a photo, but when I did the oil the sump plate was pretty messed up. Two of the nuts were actually thread-in like a bolt with some washers. One was mid length with a washer and the other was much longer with 4 or 5 washers on it. The others were thread-on nuts with a washer like you'd expect. Needless to say it still leaks.

I realized the jack point on the side are toast, so I did it like this. Jack stand on the torsion housing and a backup on the trans mount horn. Let me know if this is alright I've never jacked up a car before this.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


These are Gabriel Hi-Jackers I do believe... crap. They didn't hold air for more than a day and the air line wasn't tied up so it touched the exhaust manifold and melted to it. Putting KYB KG5529 Gas-a-justs on the back.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


- Grabbing some 5 point latch link belts soon

http://imgur.com/a/usbXS
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Put jack stands under the outer ends of the torsion housing tube or under teh forged end. Put them under the outer ends of the beam in front. Where you have that jack is NOT a good place. It's just thin sheet metal. quite weak. To jack the car up, put the jack under the center of the front beam or under the steel motor mount where it crosses between the engine and trans.

If you have a stock sheet metal mount bracket with the stock rubber mounts, get rid of them and replace them with one of the offroad mounts.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2014 2:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What do you think of the brake kit? Im thinking about ordering one and cant find any feedback on it.
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