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The Baja Bug - First Timer's Thread
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EnjoyNukaCola
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 16, 2015 9:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ordered the harness, so lets talk fusebox cases and switches. Feel free to post links and images I've been looking around but can't decide what size.
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EnjoyNukaCola
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2015 8:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-11063-Katapult-Stripper/dp/B00BC39YFQ

Now, if I want to do open barrel and weatherpack stuff, should I get both of these?
http://www.delcity.net/store/Open-Barrel-Terminal-Ratchet-Crimp-Tool/p_714008
http://www.delcity.net/store/MetriPack-:-Weather-Pack-Wire-Crimping-Tool/p_804412

Also considered one of the Tool Aid kits but they wont do weatherpack, and it seems they have a lot of dies I wont use.

As for actual terminals I have NO idea what size or how many to get, but I know I should be getting the open barrel, non-insulated tin plated copper ones, phew. I just spent 3 hours picking a wire stripper and crimper, help me out...
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EnjoyNukaCola
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 2:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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EnjoyNukaCola
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 11:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some unboxing
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Bad_chopper
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2015 10:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A little advise from what I learned rewiring my old jeep with a kit. Lay it out on the floor for how you plan on running the wires, then separate it front to rear then by where it goes. Use a couple zip ties when you need to branch it off, add a couple wires from the front to the dash area for extra lights in the future, a couple wires to the engine bay for extra guages, and a couple for rear lights. Then lay it in the car cut wires a little long. If every thing is right use some split loom and electrical tape and wrap it up for a clean and tidy install.

You should start your own build thread and put it in your signature so we can check out your project.
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EnjoyNukaCola
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2015 10:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll do that... still trying to figure what I need to order by checking the gauges on all the wires. In any case more rain this weekend so I'll have to wait before I can tear out the old and prep with some wire wheel and Rustoleum hammered (got the idea on here) under the hood, plan on cleaning up the gas tank as well, and putting the damn hood on a hinge so I can get under it.

Please let me know if those two tools should suit my needs, for non insulated crimper and weatherpack crimper, I cant find those open barrel type terminals anywhere not even Delcity. Front and rear lights will all be weatherpack 4-pin style I believe, and standard F crimps for the dash. I had an idea of buying a roll of that tool drawer liner and cutting a strip to seal off under the dash cover so its not drafty. Two more questions... I need a little help figuring out how I'm going to wire up switches, especially with relays that were not included in the harness. Last is a ground buss bar strip terminal whatever you call it, I want one. I'm not really sure how to set it up though, but would I need more wire that the harness has? I'm taking electrical circuits but the concept of grounds is much different on paper, everything is a nice closed loop but in reality the current just flows through the car on its way back. For example, would I need to run power to the rear lights and then buy a huge spool of black wire to wire everything back through the car and up to the front somewhere? Then I read to run a fat wire down to the pan or something for a single ground.

I found some electrical boxes today. I like the non metallic flexible conduit idea not sure if 1/2" or 3"4" though, and I'll use connectors from the box. What are your thoughts on using mounting pads to organize wire.
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Bad_chopper
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2015 7:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a steel car so if you have ground straps in the factory locations there is really no bead for a grounding block. There are grounding studs at each corner for lights, at the Guage cluster. If you think about it the starter dosnt have a dedicated ground strap directly to the battery, so I wouldn't think the lights require it. Do a search on here there are some really good write ups on how to do electrical. There are factory schematics on this site. Your crimpers that you posted are fine. The strippers are good. Draw your wiring plan out decide what you want to have on relays then work on the relay circuits separate. How you want to switch them ignition power or batt power. Look on YouTube fore wiring help also.
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EnjoyNukaCola
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2015 8:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ordered some parts so I can start next week. Some metal up front has been cut away so the PO grounded stuff up front to screws that hold on plates. In the rear some stuff was grounded to the tube bumper. If I hit the front with Rustoleum will it still be reliable to use screw holes and ring terminals for grounds?
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Bad_chopper
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 12:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its best to have bare metal, you can paint. Just clean to bare metal so the ring terminal contacts bare metal. A lot of issues people have start with bad grounds. Burnt connectors, corrosion, dim lights, burnt switches that type of stuff.
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EnjoyNukaCola
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 7:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got some of these terminals on Ebay. They are Tyco ring terminals in 10-12 gauge. (Also got push on connectors of the same brand). The ratcheting crimper I bought from Del City doesn't seem to work with these properly. The crimping area on the terminal is wider than what the crimper can do in one pass, so it mashes up whatever doesn't fit. I've seen people use one hand to crimp with the tool, I can barely finish a crimp with both hands. Was not expecting it to be that difficult. My question is what terminals do I need and where can I buy the open style, rings and push on connectors, I can't find them anywhere in small orders. To clarify, I'm using this tool.
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"when i go to drive it i get to like 5-10 mph it is at high rpms and gets higher the faster i go when i shift up to second the rpms drop is this normal or what and this is my first vw please help"
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dustymojave
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 09, 2015 3:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The crimper I've used for a few decades now is a Belden. But they don't show it in their catalog anymore.
https://edeskv2.belden.com/Products/#s=crimp%20tool&r=1

It's a common sort of plier type crimper. Something like this
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But vastly better quality. all those years ago, they cost me nearly $30.

It includes wire cutter; strippers in sizes from 22-10 stranded and 18-8 solid and another male/female crimp zone for 22-10 non-insulated; crimp zones for 22-14 and 12-10 insulated and for ignition cable ends; and screw cutters in 5 sizes.
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Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
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EnjoyNukaCola
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 09, 2015 7:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I bought the wrong type of connectors. The push on are too small and the rings are too big, both I destroy trying to crimp. The tool was 30 dollars also so I just need someone to point me in the right direction for terminals. I need some for 18, 16-14, and 12-10 gauge in both push on and spade. Dale M recommended the tool from DelCity. Is there a store that sells these, or do I need to look here? http://www.qualitycycleparts.com/Motorcycle_Electrical_Connectors_wire_and_terminals_s/7240.htm
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"when i go to drive it i get to like 5-10 mph it is at high rpms and gets higher the faster i go when i shift up to second the rpms drop is this normal or what and this is my first vw please help"
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EnjoyNukaCola
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 28, 2015 8:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got everything up under the bonnet painted.
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Stupid brake light switch started leaking this evening at the rubber part. Glad I wasn't out driving it.
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"when i go to drive it i get to like 5-10 mph it is at high rpms and gets higher the faster i go when i shift up to second the rpms drop is this normal or what and this is my first vw please help"
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dustymojave
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 12:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks WAY better than last week when I saw it in person.

It was good meeting you and your dad. Sorry we didn't have more time to hang out and talk more. And sorry too that my wife was feeling grumpy and not sociable and never got out of the car to meet you.

I've had good results from the master cylinder and switches I got from AutoZone for $17 about 6 years ago. They've been pissing me off about other things lately though.
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Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
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Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.
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EnjoyNukaCola
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 04, 2015 8:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for dropping by!

Been a minute since I posted, so here's an update. Got the fuse box wiring routed in the box, mounting location, etc. I separated the front and rear harnesses to run tomorrow. Got a lot to do.
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"when i go to drive it i get to like 5-10 mph it is at high rpms and gets higher the faster i go when i shift up to second the rpms drop is this normal or what and this is my first vw please help"
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2015 7:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

More progress. Ran the rear harness into the car, which was not easy. I also ran the front harness which I did after taking the picture.

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"when i go to drive it i get to like 5-10 mph it is at high rpms and gets higher the faster i go when i shift up to second the rpms drop is this normal or what and this is my first vw please help"
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EnjoyNukaCola
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2015 7:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You know what I just thought, how the fuh am I going to get the speedo cable up.
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"when i go to drive it i get to like 5-10 mph it is at high rpms and gets higher the faster i go when i shift up to second the rpms drop is this normal or what and this is my first vw please help"
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dustymojave
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2015 4:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like you have the speedo cable blocked with the electrical box.
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Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
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Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.
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EnjoyNukaCola
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2015 2:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What is this? It's next to the starter. Also, it seems the main fused batt + goes to it over the Trans. That and the reverse light switch wire go through the little hole to the right of the shift linkage plate. Anything else goes through the main harness exit correct?

EDIT: After today I'm also unsure of where the purple IGN SW START goes to and how to route it. I rain it through the rear and its too short to go anywhere.
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"when i go to drive it i get to like 5-10 mph it is at high rpms and gets higher the faster i go when i shift up to second the rpms drop is this normal or what and this is my first vw please help"
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warwgn
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 09, 2015 5:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

looks like a remote solenoid, lot of chevy guys run them with headers so when the starter gets hot you can still start the vehicle. Not sure why one would be on the bug though? I would say you can ditch it.
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