The Baja Bug - First Timer's Thread

[dustymojave]

Are both #1 valves closed with the rotor pointing like this? They should be. The distributor is installed wrong. Loosen the 10mm clamp bolt on the distributor clamp. Not the 13mm nut that holds the clamp to the case. Turn the distributor body to where the notch is around 5 o'clock. Switch the spark plug wires so #1 is at 5 o'clock. 8 o'clock wire should be #4. 11 o'clock should be #3. 2 o'clock should be #2. Remember that #1 is right front cylinder, #2 is right rear, #3 is left front, #4 is left rear. Lots of folks mess this up. If the #1 valves are not both closed with the rotor pointed like this, it is possible that the distributor drive shaft is off by a tooth or several. This is why it's good to check the valve opening/closing as you go from one cylinder to another.

For adjusting the valves, I find it handy to remember that the firing order starts with #1, but from #4-on, it's just counting down. (Once you have the distributor correct), turn the rotor to #1, then advance it to #4 (BDC on your aftermarket pulley) and adjust #4 1st, then #3, then go to the other side to #2 and finish with #1. Less swapping sides back and forth.

It's common for a fan belt to slip when turning the engine by wrench on the alternator/generator nut. Apply finger pressure to the slack side of the belt to push in towards the other side. This tightens the belt enough to provide better grip so the engine turns. With a hi-compression engine, this often is not enough.

Do you know about static timing? You use a simple 12V light bulb with wires and alligator clips for a timing light with the engine not running. An ice-pick type 12V test probe works too, but you need to hold the tip of the probe with some sort of clamp. Connect one wire to the distributor side of the coil, then connect the other end to ground. Switch the ignition switch to the "run" position (DON'T START THE ENGINE!!). Then with the engine at about 20 or 30 degrees before TDC (TDC should be to the left of the case seam), start rotating the engine clockwise until the light comes on. RIGHT where the light goes on is where the ignition fires. Set the distributor so the light comes on right at 6-10° BTDC, and the timing should be pretty good. DON"T FORGET to shut off the ignition switch when you're done. Leaving it on can fry the coil. It's best to check that your max advance while running is around 28° BTDC with a conventional timing light. Once you figure out where 28° total advance puts the idle timing, you can just static time the engine after that when you do tune-ups.
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Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.

[EnjoyNukaCola]

Thanks Dusty. I did the following... rotate dist to approximately 5 o'clock notch. I checked the spring in the centrifugal advance, dropped in a little WD under the rotor and lightly greased where the points drag on the shaft so it didn't squeak. Then I swapped the plugs in the clockwise direction and checked 1-4-3-2 in that order clockwise. Now with the rotor pointing to the notch and cylinder one wire I get TDC on the pulley so that is cylinder one. I then checked the valves per the Muir book and everything went smoothly. Cylinder one, rotated counter clockwise to bottom dead center, set cylinder two, rotated again to TDC this time at cylinder three, then another 180 CCW to BDC where four was. I checked the rotor at each point to make sure I was at the right cylinder. Gapped to .006 on all valves with some resistance and .008 unable to slide in. They were consistently tight, some to where there was no play at all. With the engine hot they must have been far too tight. Put the cap back on and checked everything. Only other thing I adjusted was the accelerator pump notch on the carb to the leanest setting.

I've succeeded in making it not run now, so that leaves the timing. It started to cycle but just for a second, I have a video clip but I'm sure you know what it sounds like. The HF multimeter is garbage at best and I couldn't get an AC voltage reading anywhere around TDC to around 20 degrees rotating it back and forth, and the fuel pump clicks away so that's distracting (resistance was 1-10 with the ignition off I couldn't get it to zero out). Connected to the right side of the coil to a ground. Bug Me said to set the 009 to 7.5 degrees BTDC so I can get pretty close with that static timing on the pulley. Did rotating the dist mess up the timing order?

Edit: Looking back it seems I had probed the positive end of the coil instead of the negative. Regardless, I was not getting a reading. I'll go pick up the 4 dollar screwdriver looking one at HF while I'm getting a grease gun and try it with that. I don't really want to have to buy the timing gun. I was thinking of using the strobe light setting on my iPhone (???) Once I get the static light I'll do as Dusty says and get it at close to 7.5 degrees as I can before rotating the dist.

[HERC]

set your total timing. rev it to 3000 lock it down between 28 and 32 deg.
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Herc

[sicksforeveedub]

I noticed you said AC volts... You should be looking for DC. I have a similar meter and it has a DC 20V setting. That's where I'd use it. Just trying to help.
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"...What, like the back of a Volkswagen?"

[dustymojave]

[Brian]

[ORANGECRUSHer]

I second not doing the valve adjustment rotating the crank CCW. I have read that you will not have everything sitting where it normally would when running because of the different tolerances between the engine components (slop). If your still not happy try one more time going CW instead. Also It's not that big of a deal starting with 1 and then counting down from 4. OCD I may be, however, I've found it helps to do everything exactly to the T inorder to eliminate human error and find things your over looking.
Earlier this year when I was having all those cheap rocker adjusters break I got real good at adjusting since I was doing it one or more times a day for a few weeks. Best to do it cold and in order. When you get done setting the pulley to TDC #1 a quick tug on the rockers on #1, to see that they're wobbly, will tell you you're in the right place. Also, when setting clearance, try 6 for the intakes and 7 for the exhausts. I found that the hot exhaust valves expanded enough to warrant a little more room. It's tedious but basic and important.
The check light will work best for static timing and I would suggest you just bust out and buy an induction timing gun. Seems like you can get one these days for around $30 and it will come in handy and work easier than messing around with a voltmeter. Then you can set your max advance quickly.
After you get that all squared away it's sounding like you're going to be getting friendly with your carburator soon. What model did you say it was?
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Brian H.
I may not know everything,but I will try to help if I can
OrangeCrushER Berrien Warrior 2.4L Quad4
LAZY MARY 1970 Baja 1835cc

[HERC]

I always rotate it with the belt feeling the stroke, easy as hell and watch the valves move, and when I get to the next two valves, I just rock the pulley back and forth feeling and looking at what the geometry is doing and then adjust.
I don't know, I suppose some guys aren't strong enough to do that.
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Herc

[dustymojave]

And some guys don't like getting their fingers between the belt and pulley too many times. LOL I find that using a wrench on the alternator pulley nut allows more rotation before stopping than the short travel available on the belt before fingers get in the way. And off road headers tend to get in the way of your arms when grasping the belt. It certainly works either way though!
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.

[EnjoyNukaCola]

[HERC]

Like I said, you have to be strong.
_________________
Herc

[dustymojave]

[EnjoyNukaCola]

[EnjoyNukaCola]

K. I cleaned up the distributor and replaced the points, condenser and rotor. I set the point gap and popped the cap back on. First time timing I connected it to the + and the light stayed on or got dimmer. Car started but didn't run good so I started over. Connected it to the - this time and saw right when the light came on and snugged up the dizzy at ~7.5 BTDC. Car starts with light misfire and idles, albeit a little sporadically. It's better than it was, for a while it sounded like a Harley. I let it run for a minute and backfired on revving it. It seems like its getting REALLY hot after that time, I tapped the exhaust near the valves and it burned me.

DANG. And while I was cranking the motor over near 4 > 1 cylinder locations I heard a nice squealing coming from case. If I grab the pulley it doesn't move at all but when it runs theres a little bit of a wobble that concerns me.

When I watched the video I recorded the exhaust and air filter were vibrating a lot (probably a framerate effect), the window roller crank even fell onto the floor in the car. I was trying to lower the idle screw but I couldn't move it with my fingers so it was idling weird without me doing anything
@ 3:30


Link

[EnjoyNukaCola]

Should I advance or retard the distributor, or leave it where it is? I don't have the timing gun or dwell meter so I'll just rotate it a hair CW or CCW and start it up again. Would the fastest strobe light setting on the iPhone be fast enough to read the pulley?

[EnjoyNukaCola]

Smells a little gassy on the dipstick/ filler cap too.

[Brian]

[EnjoyNukaCola]

Between the valves, points, and rotor all I can say is WOW the Bug is running better than ever. No hesitation revving it up, no smoke, and sounds fantastic driving away. I can still do new cap, wires, plugs after clearing out the richness and maybe Seafoaming it. I can still check the timing and dwell once I find someone with the tools. Not everything is perfect, but its a Baja Bug. Drive it while you got it!

[EnjoyNukaCola]

Electrical. Why did it have to be electrical?

I got out of class around 6:30 this evening and earlier in the day I had thought "Do I even have headlights, running lights, etc?" I knew I had headlights, but only the high beams work when I pull the knob out two clicks. There's nothing illuminated inside, and there are no running lights in the rear. The indicators work all around, but they flash fast like there is no relay and inside both arrows on the speedo light up no matter if I click right or left. The hazards flash all signals fast too, both arrows light up like they should and the knob also illuminates. I'm running my brake lights off of just the first brake switch, but there is another 2 prong set that may go to brakes. Stereo stopped working. No backup light.

Electrical to-do-list:
Headlights - low/high
Two rear running lights
Speedometer light
Flasher relay
Check brake wiring
Check stereo

I've never done any sort of wiring before but I am studying electrical circuits right now so what a time. I'm guessing I can wire in the headlights, rear running lights, and speedo light in tandem so they illuminate at once, and I want it to be independent of the ignition like the hazards are. Then I want to fix the signals. The fast flash doesn't bother me but I want to see the left or right arrow independently.

I want to say it has a VW fuse box but I have reason to believe most of it is not stock anymore, so I'm not really sure where or how to start. Luckily I just got an electrical connector kit, crimp tool, test light, and cheapo multimeter. If I need wire and fuses, I'm not sure what to get. Would switching to LEDs be a good idea?

Other to-do-stuff:
Stop plate adjustment (doesn't like upshifting into 2nd)
Gear oil
Front shocks
Handbrake
Rear brake adjuster tabs
Fuel hose
Oil hoses
Refit the fiberglass front end with a tilt and watertight dash panel

[winchin73blazinbaja]

best bet is if you have someone that can lend a hand have them help you trace the wires. if someone can give a small tug on a wire and have someone else watch which wire is moving and single it out and go from there. then mark each wire if you do not have a way to mark them easiest way i have found is with a variety of colors of paint pens. just make sure to mark each one at each end. and along the points of the wire that it is visible. sounds like a load of work but it will make it much easier for you in the future if you have anything wiring related.