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56Cabrio
Samba Member
Joined: May 22, 2008
Posts: 1899
Location: San Fernando Valley, CA
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 Posted: Mon Jun 16, 2014 5:03 pm Post subject: Oxidation |
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I had my oval painted about 14 years ago with PPG Concept Acrylic Urethane. Well the car sat outside in the corner of my driveway for the last 10 years. It has major oxidation what is the best way to get the shine back? Any help would be appreciated. I have a buffer but the stuff i bought (Meguiars Ultimate compound) seems like it is just making the oxidation shinier 
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1956 Rag Top owned since 1988
1956 Convertible owned since 2000
1963 Hard Top
RIP Dad 4/20/1951 - 2/4/2023 |
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UreKem Paints
Samba Member
Joined: March 23, 2014
Posts: 26
Location: Perkinston, Mississippi
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| Posted: Mon Jun 16, 2014 7:58 pm Post subject: |
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I would try wet sanding with P1000 to remove as much oxidation as possible first then hit it with 1500 before going to your compounding. It may be too far gone to get back but worth a try I suppose....good luck
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56Cabrio
Samba Member
Joined: May 22, 2008
Posts: 1899
Location: San Fernando Valley, CA
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| Posted: Mon Jun 16, 2014 9:36 pm Post subject: |
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| UreKem Paints wrote: |
| I would try wet sanding with P1000 to remove as much oxidation as possible first then hit it with 1500 before going to your compounding. It may be too far gone to get back but worth a try I suppose....good luck |
Whats a good buffing compound to use ? The stuff i have seem more like a polishing compound more than anything.
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1956 Rag Top owned since 1988
1956 Convertible owned since 2000
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Mike Fisher
Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006
Posts: 17969
Location: Eugene, OR
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| Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 7:44 am Post subject: |
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Take it to a Detail Shop & pay the experts to polish it.
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69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
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56Cabrio
Samba Member
Joined: May 22, 2008
Posts: 1899
Location: San Fernando Valley, CA
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22407
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2014 9:03 am Post subject: |
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| 56Cabrio wrote: |
| UreKem Paints wrote: |
| I would try wet sanding with P1000 to remove as much oxidation as possible first then hit it with 1500 before going to your compounding. It may be too far gone to get back but worth a try I suppose....good luck |
Whats a good buffing compound to use ? The stuff i have seem more like a polishing compound more than anything. |
3M heavy duty rubbing compound. Just be careful, as you'll be pulling a lot of paint up. You might even need a couple of buffing pads. Another option, would be to wet sand with 600, and clear coat it.
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
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| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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60ragtop
Bonneville Belt Bitch
Joined: March 13, 2006
Posts: 7800
Location: Big Wonderful WYO 82401
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| Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2014 2:30 pm Post subject: |
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try TR3 ResinGlaze
http://bluemagicusa.com/index.php/blue_magic/products/91
I have good results with it for removing oxidation.
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Certified Mechanic by the State of Michigan in 1977
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| tasb wrote: |
I've restored a large number too, but I don't toot my horn quite as loud.
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| sb001 wrote: |
maybe he just snapped cause his car sucked  |
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wannabebodyman
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Joined: December 07, 2008
Posts: 8
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| Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 5:17 am Post subject: |
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| Single stage urethane will buff out and look like new. Use a wool pad with a rubbing compound. The use a foam pad with a polishing compound. |
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56Cabrio
Samba Member
Joined: May 22, 2008
Posts: 1899
Location: San Fernando Valley, CA
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| Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2014 10:13 pm Post subject: |
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| wannabebodyman wrote: |
| Single stage urethane will buff out and look like new. Use a wool pad with a rubbing compound. The use a foam pad with a polishing compound. |
Wet sanded & buffed the front left fender. Not to bad for a 14 year old paint job sitting for the last 10 years. Feels like glass. Im going to do the rest of the car when i have time.
This is the right fender the left looked the same.
left
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westylife
Samba Member
Joined: October 28, 2007
Posts: 409
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
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| Posted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 9:21 am Post subject: |
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Wow what a difference! What exactly did you use? Did you follow wannabebodyman's advise?
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Mike Fisher
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Joined: January 30, 2006
Posts: 17969
Location: Eugene, OR
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| Posted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 10:26 am Post subject: |
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Very nice! Better than any Detail Shop job. 
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69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey |
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56Cabrio
Samba Member
Joined: May 22, 2008
Posts: 1899
Location: San Fernando Valley, CA
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| Posted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 7:19 pm Post subject: |
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| westylife wrote: |
| Wow what a difference! What exactly did you use? Did you follow wannabebodyman's advise? |
Yeah i wet sanded with 1200 then buffed it with 3m rubbing compound.
| Mike Fisher wrote: |
| Very nice! Better than any Detail Shop job. |
Mike Fisher Thank you
When i was 17 i got kicked out my house (my fault being a dumb kid) I moved in my friends Dads body shop & helped him build custom Harleys & street rods to pay my rent. He taught me a little body work and color sanding. That was 26 years ago but i never forgot. Never forgot what it feels like to be starving too This was my first time buffing though.
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Dauz
Samba Member
Joined: January 05, 2010
Posts: 1790
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| Posted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 3:56 pm Post subject: |
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You don't need to sand. It's only oxidation. Sanding is to get trash and orange peel out of the paint or clear coat. If you NEED to sand, then I'd only use P2000 and up grit
To remove oxidation, all you need is to cut it with a wool pad and compound and then use a finishing pad with polish. |
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56Cabrio
Samba Member
Joined: May 22, 2008
Posts: 1899
Location: San Fernando Valley, CA
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| Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 4:03 pm Post subject: |
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| Dauz wrote: |
You don't need to sand. It's only oxidation. Sanding is to get trash and orange peel out of the paint or clear coat. If you NEED to sand, then I'd only use P2000 and up grit
To remove oxidation, all you need is to cut it with a wool pad and compound and then use a finishing pad with polish. |
The car was never color sanded or buffed after it was painted. I was going to bring it back to the painter after a month for color sanding and buffing but he skipped town and took ppls money with him. i paid the guy a grand for body & paint work. He supplied the PPG Concept Acrylic Urethane.
So i should just use P2000 ?
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1956 Rag Top owned since 1988
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Dauz
Samba Member
Joined: January 05, 2010
Posts: 1790
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| Posted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 9:40 pm Post subject: |
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| 56Cabrio wrote: |
| Dauz wrote: |
You don't need to sand. It's only oxidation. Sanding is to get trash and orange peel out of the paint or clear coat. If you NEED to sand, then I'd only use P2000 and up grit
To remove oxidation, all you need is to cut it with a wool pad and compound and then use a finishing pad with polish. |
The car was never color sanded or buffed after it was painted. I was going to bring it back to the painter after a month for color sanding and buffing but he skipped town and took ppls money with him. i paid the guy a grand for body & paint work. He supplied the PPG Concept Acrylic Urethane.
So i should just use P2000 ? |
If there's currently orange peel, trash, or runs, then you can try P2000 and if it's not flattening quickly enough you can move down to P1500 then back up to 2000 to finish. |
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Derfburg
Samba Member
Joined: September 12, 2002
Posts: 110
Location: Fort Smith, AR
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| Posted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 6:50 am Post subject: |
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| Dauz wrote: |
You don't need to sand. It's only oxidation. Sanding is to get trash and orange peel out of the paint or clear coat. If you NEED to sand, then I'd only use P2000 and up grit
To remove oxidation, all you need is to cut it with a wool pad and compound and then use a finishing pad with polish. |
Could you dumb this down for me? What brands, types to buy for this. I have no idea what to start with for Wool Pad, Compound, finishing pad or polish. I am just trying to get some shine back to my 66 sedan. Thanks for the help. |
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vdubmyk
Samba Member
Joined: October 24, 2008
Posts: 508
Location: Corona, CA
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| Posted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 12:16 pm Post subject: |
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| Derfburg wrote: |
| Dauz wrote: |
You don't need to sand. It's only oxidation. Sanding is to get trash and orange peel out of the paint or clear coat. If you NEED to sand, then I'd only use P2000 and up grit
To remove oxidation, all you need is to cut it with a wool pad and compound and then use a finishing pad with polish. |
Could you dumb this down for me? What brands, types to buy for this. I have no idea what to start with for Wool Pad, Compound, finishing pad or polish. I am just trying to get some shine back to my 66 sedan. Thanks for the help. |
Check out this link: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-fea...aints.html
It details the process and theory behind it. I wash the car, claybar it, wash again and then polish. I use Lake Country CCS foam polishing pads on a Porter Cable Dual action orbital as well as the HD product line of Cut, Polish, and HD Poxy. I also like the Meguiar's Gold Class line of wax, It doesn't dry to a white paste. Any detail shop will have the supplies necessary or you can buy them online. I prefer to go into the store and ask the guy there, they are really helpful.
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Derfburg
Samba Member
Joined: September 12, 2002
Posts: 110
Location: Fort Smith, AR
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| Posted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 5:16 am Post subject: |
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| Thank you for the help. I will give this a shot. |
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