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Can an average joe replace heater channels?
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SoCalJes
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 12:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

J1 wrote:
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Nice to see that you made the brace a bolt in. I've seen so many weld them to the sheet metal Rolling Eyes Great job so far!
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J1
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 2:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SoCalJes wrote:
Nice to see that you made the brace a bolt in.


In hindsight, it might have been even better if I made it transferable to the passenger side. My red edits show a bigger bracket on the striker pillar that would accommodate the mirror image bolt holes on the passenger side. Not sure though the angles would work since the whole brace is not on a single plane.

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c21darrel wrote:
A good weld likes clean metal. Grind to clean metal, your welds will get better.


Thanks. I did clean the metal a little but yes, I think I need to do more. I'm learning that I shouldn't rush into things, that "prep", in both welding and painting is crucial.
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SoCalJes
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 2:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

And you can sell them to the next guy that needs one Cool
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J1
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 10:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

QUESTION: Where on my torsion cover area should I cut?

Solid line = where I plan to cut.
Dotted line = where full replacement panel could go

Cutting at the solid line would leave some surface rust, but I figure it'll be a little less work to phosphoric acid and prime the rust than to cut/weld curved sections and mess with the trim holes.

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Btw, it turns out this section has filler over rust...

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NOVA Airhead
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2015 8:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had similar rust on my car. Followed the contours of the car as much as possible rather than make a straight cut. This will make the body work much easier later on. Take advantage of the curve of the body as well as the side moulding. Here are some photos of my repair:

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swavananda
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2015 11:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I went with the theory of using as much good original steel as possible so I did go straight across with good results .

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But it also looks you have much more rust creeping up than I did. Cut low and work your way up........ If you can get some sand blasting done in there all the better.
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NOVA Airhead
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2015 11:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

swavananda wrote:
I went with the theory of using as much good original steel as possible so I did go straight across with good results .

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


But it also looks you have much more rust creeping up than I did. Cut low and work your way up........ If you can get some sand blasting done in there all the better.


Agree with that as well. What you can't see in my first photo is there was a bit of rust up and to the right. Started low and ended up as shown in the last photo.
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J1
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2015 12:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the comments. For now, a more pressing question has come up. Seems I've opened pandora's box and I'm sure many of you are saying "yup, been there"!

QUESTION: The rear quarter of my pan seems to need replacement. My options seem to be 1) replace the pan and channel as one project or 2) replace the channel, enjoy, then replace the pan later. If it's even possible to replace that quarter with the body on, is one option significantly harder than the other?

This is the driver side rear quarter, towards the center, the worst part. There are a few other tiny holes forming throughout the quarter, but the other 3/4 of the pan seem ok.

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c21darrel
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2015 12:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need to be able to have clean, solid metal to weld. No problem cleaning off surface rust. Remember, the thinner the metal the more difficult it will be to weld w/o blowing thru. What size is your replacement metal? I dont like to cut until i have my replacement in hand, hard to un-cut. Very Happy

Everything in that pic^^^ needs replaced. If you can do it with a 1/4 or 1/2 ...partial pan, perfect.
You wont want to tear the car apart a second time. Now is the time to do it all, I think you will be happy you did.
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NOVA Airhead
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2015 1:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On my car I thought I only needed a quarter. I ended up with a full pan replacement. What ever you end up doing I would do it now.
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J1
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2015 1:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As my 8yo son says, "Oh brothers".

I'll let this marinate, but I'm tempted to focus on just the channel. Remember, my experience and threshold for pain is very low and I already have tons of questions swirling in my head... the pan might put me over the edge.

Although the rear quarter pan and the channel are in the same general area of the car, there doesn't seem to be any overlap between the work required for the channel vs work required for the pan. In other words, there is minimal "economies of scale" by doing these at the same time.

To be more specific, the replacement quarter pan includes only the section that dips down and not the body bolt holes that the channels would attach to. And since the pan can be cut/welded from the bottom, there are no obstructions to worry about. Am I thinking about this correctly?
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c21darrel
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2015 3:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
In other words, there is minimal "economies of scale" by doing these at the same time.


As long as you dont consider removing seats, carpet, battery...anymore work. Yep, no economy of scale Wink

Head spinning with questions is completely normal Shocked
Just relax and do your HC replacement, Before you put it all back together do the pan repair. There is a brake line along the driver side of the pan near tunnel, seat rails may or may not figure in to repair.
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J1
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 1:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not gonna do the rear quarter pan now. The work required for the pan - removing tarboard/carpet on the pan, removing seats, cutting off seat tracks - would not be necessary for the channel so I see no benefit doing it now. The part where the pan bolts go seem solid and I believe that's all I need to be concerned about for the channel work.

Step 4: Remove pan bolts

I'm adding this as a separate step because it was a little harder than I expected. Just unscrew, right? Well, it's screwed into rusty metal, so let's just say I got a good workout. Not a big deal but it's something unplanned... I'm gonna be buying some new pan bolts.

Here are the casualties. 2 in the back came out fairly easily, 3 in the middle have stripped threads, 1 broke off, and 1 turned into rusty metal art!

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J1
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 2:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm ALL IN!!! No turning back. Actually feels refreshing to commit Very Happy

Step 5: Cut out rocker area

I am feeling like a butcher, not a good one, trying to figure out the best "cuts". It doesn't help that I have the body on and only a 4.5" grinder. I started out with a general cutting plan and that quickly went out the window. My only plan now is simply... don't cut anything I shouldn't cut!

So the first skinning was to the rocker. I'm only skinning right now because a bulky grinder just can't do everything in one shot. A sawzall and a small cutting wheel may be handy here but alas those are not in my toolbox. Anyway, here's proof that this project is necessary...

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Then I skinned the torsion cover area. Again, I'm not exactly sure how I'm going to get all the rusty metal out. I'm just gonna take it one cut at a time. While the metal fitting and welding may be detailed exacting work, I think this cutting stage will be just good ol' brute demolition...

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One thing is for sure... my neighbor is going to get used to hearing my grinder.
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Last edited by J1 on Wed Apr 01, 2015 1:51 pm; edited 1 time in total
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J1
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 2:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

And btw, I could use a little encouragement right about... NOW Laughing
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c21darrel
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 2:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Way to go J!!! Applause Applause Applause
Lil warm out there today? Cool
Keep at it, 4.5 grinder is a wonderful weapon.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 2:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wear ear plugs when grinding. Your ears will be ringing without them.
Take it a little at a time. Examine an area and see where to cut, than move on. Cut into the rusty channel and towards the good metal or body parts so you don't cut too far. If you do, metal can always be added in. It's just better not to add more work.
If the A pillar bottom needs attention, do that before putting in the new channel.
You'll get there. At least your making more progress than my 2 hours a week I put in on mine.
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J1
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 1:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the encouragement. I am focusing on cutting out the rocker section now. Dashed lines represent the cuts I have to do next in order to get all the metal off the rocker area. I'll do this when I have a relaxing chunk of time since I have to be delicate so as not to cut too deep and into the pan.

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In order to get here, it required 5 cuts going the length of the channel (in addition to the 2 cross section cuts at the ends of the rocker). This is a cross-section, so from this angle, the cuts would look like they're going downward...

Cut 1: Along the top of rocker skin.
Cut 2: Bottom of rocker skin.
Cut 3: Outside-bottom of channel.
Cut 4: Inside-top of channel.
Cut 5: Inside-bottom of channel (from outside of car)

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


One mishap was a wire that fell into the path of the grinder Mad I'll deal with that later but I believe this is for an aftermarket speaker so not a big deal. Seems I'm averaging about 1 bumble per session.

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Last edited by J1 on Mon Mar 30, 2015 11:44 pm; edited 1 time in total
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c21darrel
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 1:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Seems I'm averaging about 1 bumble per session.


Thats practically professional standard Smile
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 5:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Way to go J1! Amazing how rusty it is under there.....Keep at it! Very Happy
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