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Can an average joe replace heater channels?
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ScottDoonan
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 21, 2014 2:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It will, but we are here to help.
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J1
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 3:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

c21darrel wrote:
Quote:
I hope this does not become one of those never-ending threads Smile


I think you mean "never starting threads" Cool


Embarassed I suppose I can't argue with that... I've spent more time writing than actually doing any work... lots of words, not so much action. On the flip side though, another purpose of this thread was to keep me accountable... and knowing this is out there will definitely keep me from getting lazy for too long.
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cool karmann collected
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2014 3:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

NOVA Airhead wrote:
It seems to me the cheap part of this job are the parts cost. If you are an average Joe I think you are making the task quite a bit harder going the fabricated route.

I also wonder over time if this is penny wise and dollar foolish. While I am sure you are not going into this for the money it would be nice if 20 years down the road you could recover some money on your car. I don't know if what you are planning with the tube steel is detectable but I could see people doing this and the value of their car is diminished down the road. The real cost here is the labor.

I would save more money and use the repro parts.

As for body on or off. Body on will help insure your gaps are right. It becomes much more difficult with the body off. Good Luck!


This reply from Nova Airhead neatly sums up my feelings to a tee.

I didn't even consider fabricating an approximation of the channels from tube, sheet or whatever as I knew from beetle experience that even with the repro parts in front of me there was literally piles of work in removal of the old rusty metal and preparation of the remaining bodywork without getting into fabricating what is in fact quite a complex construction, it's way beyond just a rectangular tube with some holes in.

Don't get me wrong, I don't / didn't have bags of cash, so I understand why people balk at the headline price of repro channels. Let me tell you that in reality these are a bargain when you factor in the man-hours it would require to produce something from scratch. It's money well spent to put the extra hours in at work to raise the funds to buy what you need.

I applaud that you want to get in there and do the work yourself, no arguments there, everyone's got to start somewhere. As a side note, I think you are dead on the money when you say you might delay it for a while because you'd rather put some miles on it (read: enjoy) before laying it up for an indeterminate period of time, it's important to build up a 'Karma-bank' (see what I did there? Smile ) of enjoyable driving so that when you're knee-deep in rust and it's really getting you down, you've got some good memories to pull you through, diving into a new project car can be tough and can lead to resentment of all the cash and time it's gobbling up.

Did I mention time? I should add some context to the thread I created back when I did the work on my car. At that time I was living in a rented place and didn't have so many time commitments (read: house maintenance) that now seem to fill my days. I had a decent work space that I could spread out in that was away from my home- so no visitors dropping by to 'help out'. Even so, it took me almost a year of Saturdays just to do one side, I know I'm more of a tortoise than a Hare, but I wasn't dragging my feet either.

So, in essence, go for it, but don't make life any harder than it needs to be already. There is another option that I didn't see mentioned and that's to cut some good metal from a donor bodyshell, This would almost certainly be the quickest, cheapest and ultimately most accurate method in the long run.

Peace

Ant
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2014 7:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

J1 wrote:
Quick update. I've been driving my ghia around, enjoying it before it goes under the knife. Now that it's thanksgiving and the signs of winter are here, I've been thinking about this experiment again.

HOWEVER, after realizing that I live in SoCal where winters (not summers) may be a better time to be enjoying an air-conditioner-less, vinyl-upholstered vehicle, I'm on the fence about starting this project. I've had this car less than a year and I think I deserve a couple more seasons before taking her off the street for who-knows-how-long.

Another factor is that I was supposed to be practicing on my stick welder this whole time, but I've been too busy doing things that require much less effort. My nearly-nonexistent welding skills is probably now fully nonexistent.

I hope this does not become one of those never-ending threads Smile Maybe I'll just pass this problem on to my 9yo son. Anyway, hope everyone finds something to be thankful for this season!


I'm watching this thread as I am a first time welder contemplating two major body off projects next summer. No pressure though.

Winter in SoCal? Is that when you turn the AC up to 72F?
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J1
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 12:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cool karmann collected, thx for your thoughts. They carry a lot of weight given your successful heater channel project and the fact you did it body-on. I totally get the "penny-wise pound-foolish" potential and I'm not as certain on going the tube route as it may seem. Maybe some more input would help...

To those who have tried the tube approach (successful or not) or intimately know that part of the car, can you comment on specific challenges compared to using a repro? I'm leaning towards the tube only because I have yet to hear warnings from those who have done this. Maybe because they are experienced fabricators/welders, have access to the right tools, and their threshold for pain is a lot higher than mere mortals?

Anyone have experience in transplanting heater channels from a donor? The thought crossed my mind, but it seemed it could be tricky or impossible to cut it out just right, plus the time to find one and the luck to find someone who'll let you cut it out.

To those who are following this thread in order to replace their own channels, are you more interested in seeing the tube approach, repro, or no preference? I won't make my decision based on this peanut gallery, but it'd be interesting to hear!

cool karmann collected wrote:
it's important to build up a 'Karma-bank'... of enjoyable driving so that when you're knee-deep in rust and it's really getting you down, you've got some good memories to pull you through

Thx for that confirmation. That's a great way to put it. I need some more deposits in my Karma-bank!
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c21darrel
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 10:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sources for og metal. Contact a few and get an idea on cost of repair channels.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/search.php?...arting+out
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J1
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 11:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been thinking more about how much hassle the tube option might be. "Analyzed" some photos courtesy of user "cool karmann collected"...

Am I right that the rear of the tube simply ends and butts up to the rear wheel well, so it should not be difficult to fit a tube compared to a repro part?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


But it seems fitting the front of the tube to the dogleg may require some finesse and luck...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


...whereas a repro part transitions nicely pretty much regardless of where you cut the old channel/dogleg...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I believe these are the potential problem areas when using a tube, but it still seems relatively minimal. I know there will be all these little details that will come to play, but it seems reasonable. I'm guessing "fabricating" the other sections like the heater vent, Y tube, pan bolts, and the actual rocker should be easier than the above.

Are there other problem areas for the channel itself (not the surrounding fender, wells, etc)? I know it depends on the condition, so this is just generally speaking.
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NOVA Airhead
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 6:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

J1 wrote:
c21darrel wrote:
Quote:
I hope this does not become one of those never-ending threads Smile


I think you mean "never starting threads" Cool


Embarassed I suppose I can't argue with that... I've spent more time writing than actually doing any work... lots of words, not so much action. On the flip side though, another purpose of this thread was to keep me accountable... and knowing this is out there will definitely keep me from getting lazy for too long.


I think it was George S. Patton that said an imperfect plan violently executed today is better than a perfect plan executed next week...or something like that.

It seem like you are getting near the point of the former.
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 6:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As someone who made his own heater channels, I really think you'd be much better off saving for the actual repro parts. All the flanges and other connections are what give the body structure. You also cannot forget water drainage, carpet fit, where the main wiring harness will run, heat etc.

You will save yourself a lot of trouble. As a beginner its hard enough as it is. No need to reinvent the wheel.

Some will disagree with me, that's fine. I'm telling you straight up what I think.
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J1
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2015 11:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Still no actual progress, but it's because I'm trying to maximize hours of enjoying her on the road before making the cut of no return. I have been thinking about this though and the needle has started to point more towards using a repro channel than fabricating from a tube. Mainly because...

kman wrote:
As someone who made his own heater channels, I really think you'd be much better off saving for the actual repro parts. All the flanges and other connections are what give the body structure.


I don't want to mess with "structure". I noticed in this pic that the front of a repro channel has an "end plate" that slides in between the dogleg and whatever this outer section is called. And this would not exist with a tube...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


So here are the weld points between the channel and body that provide structure...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


A: Channel butts up to A pillar and slides into dogleg.
B: B pillar.
C: Channel butts up to rear wheel well.
D: And the repro channel has this end plate that gets welded to the body whereas a tube would only have A, B and C for structure.

Another structural issue with the tube is that a body-on replacement would not allow me to access the bottom of the tube where it butts up to the A pillar. In other words, the structure is dependent on a butt joint weld of only 3 sides of a 4-sided tube.

This decision matrix may also help summarize. Just my personal assessment, don't know how true this all would be. My original plan was to be in quadrant 4 but I'm now leaning towards quadrant 2...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Mellow Yellow 74
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2015 12:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

J1 wrote:
This decision matrix may also help summarize. Just my personal assessment, don't know how true this all would be. My original plan was to be in quadrant 4 but I'm now leaning towards quadrant 2...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I have an engineering background and can tend to over analyse things sometimes. Just out of interest, what is your daytime job?
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2015 2:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think Cost ($) and Effort (Skill/Time really) are relative. Whereas Structure is a constant that can probably be measured fairly directly and consistently...thus, that's the one I would start with... taking you out of box 4...and arguably 3.

I'm all for fabrication and keeping costs low...but may not be worth it long term.
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J1
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2015 6:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mellow Yellow 74 wrote:
I have an engineering background and can tend to over analyse things sometimes. Just out of interest, what is your daytime job?


Haha. I think you're just trying to say "just get started already!" in a nice way. I totally get I'm over-analyzing and I'm doing that on purpose because as someone new to this car restoration world, I'm trying to learn and maybe others will get something out of it too. Plus I'm not in a rush to get this project started so it's just fun to think about.

As for my job... uh... I'm a data analyst, I build statistical models, and crunch numbers... I kinda get paid to over analyze Smile
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2015 9:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

J1 wrote:
Mellow Yellow 74 wrote:
I have an engineering background and can tend to over analyse things sometimes. Just out of interest, what is your daytime job?


Haha. I think you're just trying to say "just get started already!" in a nice way. I totally get I'm over-analyzing and I'm doing that on purpose because as someone new to this car restoration world, I'm trying to learn and maybe others will get something out of it too. Plus I'm not in a rush to get this project started so it's just fun to think about.

As for my job... uh... I'm a data analyst, I build statistical models, and crunch numbers... I kinda get paid to over analyze Smile


Sounds like some may have fallen into the 'paralysis by analysis' syndrome, and nothing moves forward towards getting the repairs made. Wink

But then, I also recognize the first four letters of 'analysis', whereby one's a$$ gets in the way of getting anything accomplished.

bnc
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 12:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm going to take advantage of CIP1's 20% off deals. I suppose that's a mild first step, but a first step nonetheless!

Obviously, I need the channels and rocker skin. Would these 3 take care of it for the fender areas (pretty sure existing panels are unsalvageable).

Front fender, front of door (outer):
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=TAB-404-221

Rear fender, torsion cover area (outer and inner):
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=TAB-404-501
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=TAB-404-541

The rear wheel well area that the heater channel is welded to will need to be replaced too, but I believe that has to be fabricated. Anything I'm missing?
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Andre@KGPR/Airhead
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 11:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

We're a lot cheaper on those Rear Lower Fronts, even with the 20 off.

We'll meet any advertised price out there, too. Wink



I've been wanting to do a Rocker replacement video for years, but that whole "only 24 hours in a day" thing is totally in the way.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 4:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

While we are on heater channels I wanted to post these. This repair was done to the passenger side of my car. Is this the heater channel and does it look correctly repaired?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I believe the same repair was made to the drivers side.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 4:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

looks like they tacked a patch over the top.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 4:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not sure - it got welded back up before I could see it.

If it was just a patch over the top and the old piece wasn't cut out, would this repair work? Is this the heater channel?
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 5:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
If it was just a patch over the top and the old piece wasn't cut out,

then its still rusting on the inside. Nothing you can really do about it now.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


you can see it is more than one layer, a pipe enclosed by a channel. If only the outside was bad...it still works, if its rusted thru it will be less than effective. The correct repair would be to remove all the rust and replace with fresh metal. It should be a complete weld...on your pic, 6,7,8 more tacks between each existing tack to complete. more pics courtesy a quick search of samba gallery...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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