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Axitech Samba Member
Joined: August 31, 2011 Posts: 1265 Location: Bucks County, Pa
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Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 5:27 pm Post subject: Bob's engine build and stupid question thread |
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Camshaft issues. Assembling new engine and am stumped by camshaft bearing configuration. pics below. anybody know why I have more 'tabs' than 'slots' and which saddle gets the two thrust bearings? By this I mean, There are three bearing saddles, and only 5 of the saddle faces have slots for the locating tabs on the bearings, yet every bearing half has the tab.
_________________ He said to them, “But now if you have a purse, take it, and also a bag; and if you don’t have a sword, sell your cloak and buy one. Luke 22:36
The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government.-Thomas Jefferson |
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esde Samba Member
Joined: October 20, 2007 Posts: 5969 Location: central rust belt
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Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 5:31 pm Post subject: |
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thrust towards the rear, guys should remember that easily
file the tab off of the one side of the thrust bearing that doesn't have a corresponding notch in the case. |
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mark tucker Samba Member
Joined: April 08, 2009 Posts: 23937 Location: SHALIMAR ,FLORIDA
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Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 5:43 pm Post subject: |
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tang..it isant just for breakfast anymore..... thrust on pully end just incase you dont know the rear. and or file a groove in the saddle for the tang.
hey bob(hope I spelled that right) there are no stupid questions...well not if you ask them, if you dont ask them that might be stupid.dont be stupid,ask away. and dont forget to deburr the cam lobe edges!! and use a good cam lube,I like the camshield cb sells. |
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Glenn Mr. 010
Joined: December 25, 2001 Posts: 76940 Location: Sneaking up behind you
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Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 6:08 pm Post subject: |
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esde wrote: |
file the tab off of the one side of the thrust bearing that doesn't have a corresponding notch in the case. |
mark tucker wrote: |
file a groove in the saddle for the tang. |
Always modified the cheapest part. Remove the tang from the 2nd thrust bearing.
_________________ Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"
Member #1009
#BlueSquare |
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Axitech Samba Member
Joined: August 31, 2011 Posts: 1265 Location: Bucks County, Pa
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Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 6:19 pm Post subject: |
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Good deal. Thanks guys. _________________ He said to them, “But now if you have a purse, take it, and also a bag; and if you don’t have a sword, sell your cloak and buy one. Luke 22:36
The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government.-Thomas Jefferson |
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mark tucker Samba Member
Joined: April 08, 2009 Posts: 23937 Location: SHALIMAR ,FLORIDA
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Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2014 7:27 am Post subject: |
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always modify the cheepest part... thats about the 2nd stupidest thing Ive heard in a while.and the reasoning is????? and the engine cc is???? and the parts oe changed??? and what has been updated so it works&last longer??? I dont think the cheepest part is the cam bearings, there are a few washers that are cheep too,so if you mod the washers it has done nothing for the issue you have. and you have to do it again,and again and again every 4000-6000 miles( from what I hear thats about as long as these engines are supposed to last) some much less. witch ever part ypu mod make sure it has total clearance so it dosent cause a tight spot anywhere&effup the entire thing. |
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Axitech Samba Member
Joined: August 31, 2011 Posts: 1265 Location: Bucks County, Pa
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Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2014 7:39 am Post subject: |
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Wow! _________________ He said to them, “But now if you have a purse, take it, and also a bag; and if you don’t have a sword, sell your cloak and buy one. Luke 22:36
The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government.-Thomas Jefferson |
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hooker Samba Member
Joined: October 07, 2004 Posts: 261 Location: Bend, Oregon
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Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2014 9:15 am Post subject: |
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[quote="Glenn"]
esde wrote: |
file the tab off of the one side of the thrust bearing that doesn't have a corresponding notch in the case. |
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I've always found this to work well for that problem.
PS. I think some one is slipping and sliding a little. _________________ 2007 NHRA Division 6 Finals Champion air cooled Rabbit P/U rear engine compact/import class, 13.32 sec 1/4 Woodburn, Oregon
Pauter Big Block VW 2610 cc turbo mid engine roadster 9.69 sec @ 147 mph 1/4 PIR Oregon
I spent most my money on women and VW race cars. The rest I wasted. |
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Superman74 Samba Member
Joined: January 28, 2013 Posts: 192 Location: Tampa, Florida
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Posted: Sat Jul 05, 2014 2:57 pm Post subject: |
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just curious but the rear of the engine would be the side facing the tranny correct? |
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[email protected] Samba Member
Joined: August 03, 2002 Posts: 12785 Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
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Posted: Sat Jul 05, 2014 3:04 pm Post subject: |
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No. Why would rear be front?
Superman74 wrote: |
just curious but the rear of the engine would be the side facing the tranny correct? |
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SBD Samba Member
Joined: October 24, 2012 Posts: 3269 Location: SOUTH DAKOTA
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Posted: Sat Jul 05, 2014 3:23 pm Post subject: |
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Superman74 wrote: |
just curious but the rear of the engine would be the side facing the tranny correct? |
Only if you use the taillights for headlights. But I guess I have heard people talk about their rear taillights, so maybe there is more than one rear. _________________ "Just $99 down and $64 a month for 36 months buys you a brand new Volkswagen Beetle!"
mark tucker wrote: |
I wouldent waste $ or thyme on building a small motor. build it big so it dosent have to work hard.remember it's only as fast as your foot alows it to be unless you build a small turd then it just stinks as it squishes up through your toes when you step on it. |
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raul arrese Samba Member
Joined: July 23, 2006 Posts: 1330 Location: miami florida
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Posted: Sat Jul 05, 2014 3:26 pm Post subject: |
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SBD wrote: |
Superman74 wrote: |
just curious but the rear of the engine would be the side facing the tranny correct? |
Only if you use the taillights for headlights. But I guess I have heard people talk about their rear taillights, so maybe there is more than one rear. |
How about the bug that they mounted the body backwards on ? |
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SBD Samba Member
Joined: October 24, 2012 Posts: 3269 Location: SOUTH DAKOTA
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Posted: Sat Jul 05, 2014 3:46 pm Post subject: |
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raul arrese wrote: |
SBD wrote: |
Superman74 wrote: |
just curious but the rear of the engine would be the side facing the tranny correct? |
Only if you use the taillights for headlights. But I guess I have heard people talk about their rear taillights, so maybe there is more than one rear. |
How about the bug that they mounted the body backwards on ? |
CRAP! Maybe they did that to all of the ones they sold. All of the ones we have are backwards! The engine is supposed to be in the front! We need to fix them as fast as we can! Damn it! More work to do! _________________ "Just $99 down and $64 a month for 36 months buys you a brand new Volkswagen Beetle!"
mark tucker wrote: |
I wouldent waste $ or thyme on building a small motor. build it big so it dosent have to work hard.remember it's only as fast as your foot alows it to be unless you build a small turd then it just stinks as it squishes up through your toes when you step on it. |
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mark tucker Samba Member
Joined: April 08, 2009 Posts: 23937 Location: SHALIMAR ,FLORIDA
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Posted: Sat Jul 05, 2014 9:18 pm Post subject: |
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mid engine's ..... crap were screwed now..... dragster???crap witch end does the slicks go on?? hmm I think one of my front headlights are out I think all the confision is...hear it comes........somebody .......stuck the gas tank in front and put the engine in the rear. witch remindes me I bought a car one time(well more than one time but this pitickular time) well it had a bumper to bumper warranty.......witch I was surprized to find out ment anything between the front&rear bumper wasent covered ...thanks honda!!!! |
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Axitech Samba Member
Joined: August 31, 2011 Posts: 1265 Location: Bucks County, Pa
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Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2014 10:16 am Post subject: oil pump questions |
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I ordered a new oil pump. Shadek 26mm, to replace the 30mm unit already in place. The new pump did not come with an o-ring, and the body has a groove for one (I assume) although the groove is not nearly as wide or deep as the one in the old 30mm pump. So, looking at the pics below
what do you all think? Does the new pump require an o-ring, or a gasket? Is the top, shown with the old pump, usable with the new pump, or do I need to get a new top?
Thanks, Bob
EDIT TO AD: Also , the new pump's shaft's do not intrude into the lid, the old one did. Does this make a difference? In case you can't tell the top pic is the new pump, and the bottom pic is the old 30mm pump and lid. The engine is full-flowed. _________________ He said to them, “But now if you have a purse, take it, and also a bag; and if you don’t have a sword, sell your cloak and buy one. Luke 22:36
The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government.-Thomas Jefferson |
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esde Samba Member
Joined: October 20, 2007 Posts: 5969 Location: central rust belt
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Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2014 10:20 am Post subject: |
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No oring, and I have not used a gasket for a while, just a smear of curil or whatever case sealer you use. The groove that you see is so the suction side of the pump gears can scavenge any oil that is weeping out of the cover. That is why there is the short passage to the gears. Be careful to not fill the groove with shmutz and you will be fine. SD |
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hill Samba Member
Joined: September 24, 2011 Posts: 442 Location: PNW
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Posted: Fri Jul 18, 2014 4:25 pm Post subject: |
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esde wrote: |
No oring, and I have not used a gasket for a while, just a smear of curil or whatever case sealer you use. The groove that you see is so the suction side of the pump gears can scavenge any oil that is weeping out of the cover. That is why there is the short passage to the gears. Be careful to not fill the groove with shmutz and you will be fine. SD |
Schmutz is all I ever use. _________________ '78 Biegephalia |
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Axitech Samba Member
Joined: August 31, 2011 Posts: 1265 Location: Bucks County, Pa
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Posted: Fri Jul 18, 2014 5:51 pm Post subject: |
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Ok, moving forward tonight. Removed piston rings, and installed pistons and jugs, torqued the cylinders down with the head tool in place, took measurements.
1 .014
2 .014
3 .014
4 .013
heads going on are ACN's L-5 from DRD as soon as they arrive. I know there may be some missing info there, but what can you all tell me about needing to shim the jugs, or not needing to?
crank is 74mm, p&c kit is 92 thick wall, heads are being cut to 94mm . use is "street only, and leaning heavily to highway speeds" running 89 octane gas.
Second part: What compression ratio should I be shooting for to get maximum dependability out of the motor. Power is nice, not having to rebuild a grenaded motor is a LOT nicer! Thanks, Bob _________________ He said to them, “But now if you have a purse, take it, and also a bag; and if you don’t have a sword, sell your cloak and buy one. Luke 22:36
The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government.-Thomas Jefferson |
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Danwvw Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2012 Posts: 8892 Location: Oregon Coast
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Posted: Fri Jul 18, 2014 6:30 pm Post subject: |
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hill wrote: |
esde wrote: |
No oring, and I have not used a gasket for a while, just a smear of curil or whatever case sealer you use. The groove that you see is so the suction side of the pump gears can scavenge any oil that is weeping out of the cover. That is why there is the short passage to the gears. Be careful to not fill the groove with shmutz and you will be fine. SD |
Schmutz is all I ever use. |
Not sure what "schmutz" is but don't do what I did and look it up in the Urban Dictionary! On my last engine I just went with the dry thin paper gasket but it does get some oil there at the bottom of the pump seeping through. _________________ 1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths! |
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Danwvw Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2012 Posts: 8892 Location: Oregon Coast
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Posted: Fri Jul 18, 2014 6:36 pm Post subject: |
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Axitech wrote: |
Ok, moving forward tonight. Removed piston rings, and installed pistons and jugs, torqued the cylinders down with the head tool in place, took measurements.
1 .014
2 .014
3 .014
4 .013
heads going on are ACN's L-5 from DRD as soon as they arrive. I know there may be some missing info there, but what can you all tell me about needing to shim the jugs, or not needing to?
crank is 74mm, p&c kit is 92 thick wall, heads are being cut to 94mm . use is "street only, and leaning heavily to highway speeds" running 89 octane gas.
Second part: What compression ratio should I be shooting for to get maximum dependability out of the motor. Power is nice, not having to rebuild a grenaded motor is a LOT nicer! Thanks, Bob |
It's all determined by what compression ratio you want which is determined by the cam your using. Need to know the cc on those heads, think it's 60cc though. Nice choice in heads! Probably just a 20 thousandths under cylinder shim will be about right for your engine. I set my cr to be 8.5:1. http://www.cbperformance.com/v/enginecalc.html Probably need 30 to 40 thousandths shims if your running regular in it. The calculator is saying 30 shims for a total of .014+.030=44 thousandths is 8.6:1. _________________ 1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!
Last edited by Danwvw on Fri Jul 18, 2014 6:48 pm; edited 4 times in total |
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