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periscopebill
Samba Member
Joined: May 17, 2013
Posts: 148
Location: Brooklyn
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 Posted: Wed Jul 23, 2014 6:24 am Post subject: |
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| Bobnotch wrote: |
| periscopebill wrote: |
| Okay, so I just picked up some of the small test leads to do the injector test as per Ray's explanation, but I'm not sure where exactly to attach them to to get the pump to run constantly. I'm assuming one end attaches to the fuel pump relay connection that plugs into the fuse box? But then where does the other end of the test lead go, |
Actually, you want the terminal on the relay right below the one that goes to the fusebox. You can follow it over from the relay if you need to Sarah, as it might be easier to determine which red wire goes where. The one you want on the relay, heads out to the pump (goes thru the front wall). The other end of your jumper lead, you want connected to a battery supply leg or fuses 10, 11, or 12 from left to right (to run the pump all the time you're testing). You won't need a ground jumper this way, as the pump ground wire is already grounded to the screw on the dash.  |
Aha- thank you! At the invasion Jim had the test leads hooked up that way. I was wishing I had paid more attention to where exactly it was attached. Thanks for clarifying! |
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periscopebill
Samba Member
Joined: May 17, 2013
Posts: 148
Location: Brooklyn
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| Posted: Sat Jul 26, 2014 1:21 pm Post subject: |
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Okay, so I tested the injectors this morning and I'm confused. I don't know if I did something wrong? But when testing injectors 1 &2 only 2 had anything come out- it sprayed out in a fine mist, looked good. 1 had nothing- no drips. Nothing. Out of curiosity I went ahead and tested 3 & 4. 3 had a nice even spray pattern- 4 had nothing. No drips nothing. What makes me more confused about this is that the two injectors 1 & 4 that had nothing come out, were also different colors. 1 has a green tip, and 4 has a black tip, whereas 2 and 3 were both yellow. 1 also looked like it didn't quite fit correctly- it has a rubber boot that seems like it's shoved between the two guides that the injectors go through.
1&2
3&4
I also tested resistance, thinking maybe this would point out why 1&4 weren't spraying. With my volt meter set on straight ohms I was getting all kinds of different readings:
1- 14.5
2- 15.3
3- 1- does 1 just mean infinity?
4- 70.8
I believe this points to a bad ground- but all the grounds appear to be clean and tight. I tried wiggling the grounds to see if that changed the reading, no difference. Does this mean there's a break in the wiring somewhere potentially?
grounds-
I also finally got the primer kit installed, it makes cold startup a lot easier, it started up fine, dropped off once to the point of dying then seemed to idle like normal. Will have to test the warmed up start up.
Aside from this I also gave a shot to something Jim Adney recommended I try, spraying a quick shots of WD40 into the small hole in the IAD, thinking maybe the surging issue at hot startup was because of junk that had gotten into the IAD. I drove it enough to get it warmed up then tested this. I don't know if it really accomplished anything, each time I sprayed WD40 the idle got higher and it started to backfire. Maybe this proves that there was junk in there? The idle was high overall after this so I backed it down.
On a totally unrelated note I also took a look at my front end. On the way to the invasion I happened to do some unintentional off-roading, and may have hit a sign post... There's play both at 12 o'clock and 3 and 9. I went ahead and adjusted the upper torsion arms thinking that should at least help the play at 12o'clock. I followed exactly as the bentley instructed and it still feels exactly the same: loose. I also managed to break off the lock plate that goes over the adjusting bolt. How bad is it to drive around without it? Are these made anymore?
I also had aspirations to grease the front end as well, but apparently I bought the crappiest craftsman floor jack in the world, the pinched end of the bar that lowers the jack back down bent out, and was just spinning freely around the little thing that lowers the jack.  Vice grips to the rescue, and I decided to take a break on front end things, until I pick up a new jack.
Other question- with the play at 3&9 D/A/N/ and neena had recommended tie rod ends. When we were looking at the play at 3 & 9 we could see the steering knuckle move around, which it is clearly not supposed to do. I ordered the tie rod ends and was prepared to get those swapped out today, but after my floor jack pooped out I figured now was a good time to ask a couple questions to clarify some things. Clearly things were bent in going off road- I went off the road to the right, so my thinking was the passenger side probably got the worst of it. The impact bar behind the bumper got shoved back and is now touching the axle. My question with the tie rod ends is- from what I've read the tie rod ends only ultimately affect the toe in. My car still tracks straight and doesn't seem to pull to either side. So would swapping tie rod ends help correct the play, even though the toe in seems to be fine in terms of tracking straight? Should I swap them anyway just in case?
Whenever I go over bumps I don't feel it in the steering wheel, so that says to me the steering damper is good. The front passenger tire also seems to be wearing down around the outer edge maybe an 1" wide, while the drivers side front tire looks to be fine. I've been driving like this since the invasion. It's clearly not good, but I'm sticking to in-city driving, I am definitely motivated to get this fixed, but with adjusting the torsion arm and it still being loose am I looking at more seriously bent components? |
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22431
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Sat Jul 26, 2014 7:02 pm Post subject: |
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| periscopebill wrote: |
Okay, so I tested the injectors this morning and I'm confused. I don't know if I did something wrong? But when testing injectors 1 &2 only 2 had anything come out- it sprayed out in a fine mist, looked good. 1 had nothing- no drips. Nothing. Out of curiosity I went ahead and tested 3 & 4. 3 had a nice even spray pattern- 4 had nothing. No drips nothing. What makes me more confused about this is that the two injectors 1 & 4 that had nothing come out, were also different colors. 1 has a green tip, and 4 has a black tip, whereas 2 and 3 were both yellow. 1 also looked like it didn't quite fit correctly- it has a rubber boot that seems like it's shoved between the two guides that the injectors go through.
3&4
I also tested resistance, thinking maybe this would point out why 1&4 weren't spraying. With my volt meter set on straight ohms I was getting all kinds of different readings:
1- 14.5
2- 15.3
3- 1- does 1 just mean infinity?
4- 70.8
I believe this points to a bad ground- but all the grounds appear to be clean and tight. I tried wiggling the grounds to see if that changed the reading, no difference. Does this mean there's a break in the wiring somewhere potentially?
grounds-
I also finally got the primer kit installed, it makes cold startup a lot easier, it started up fine, dropped off once to the point of dying then seemed to idle like normal. Will have to test the warmed up start up.
Aside from this I also gave a shot to something Jim Adney recommended I try, spraying a quick shots of WD40 into the small hole in the IAD, thinking maybe the surging issue at hot startup was because of junk that had gotten into the IAD. I drove it enough to get it warmed up then tested this. I don't know if it really accomplished anything, each time I sprayed WD40 the idle got higher and it started to backfire. Maybe this proves that there was junk in there? The idle was high overall after this so I backed it down. |
I'll try and take a stab at this.
The green injector will work for now, but it's really for a larger engine. You'll need to try and find a good yellow one. Maybe Tram or Jim Adney might have one.
The rubber "O" ring on injector #4 is supposed to be there. Your other ones (1,2,&3) probably are still stuck in there respective holes in the manifold. You'll probably need a bent pick to get them out. Ideally you should replace them, as re-using used seals might cause a vacuum leak.
To get injectors 1 and 4 to spray, you need to manually turn the engine 90 degrees on the distributor, or 180 degress at the crank. what you are seeing is a "batch" fire of injectors 2 and 3. With the engine rotated 180 degrees, the injectors 1 and 4 will batch fire.
This is where I like having a spare FI distributor, so I can just plug the 3 wire connector into it, and then rotate the distributor shaft to fire the PAIRs of injectors and watch the spray patterns.
Where are you getting these resistance readings? At the injectors themselves? Or thru somewhere/something else?
As for Jim recommending spraying some WD40, he's probably trying to get the vacuum port for the distributor clear, so the engine will advance correctly. This is partly why you noticed the idle jumping up. It's also because WD40 IS flammable, and will burn (note quite like gas). Since you're spraying it into the IAD (where the vacuum exists for that port), it's gotta go somewhere. That somewhere is thru the IAD to the valves, then out the tail pipe. It sounds like you've cleared the port though. 
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22431
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Sat Jul 26, 2014 7:24 pm Post subject: |
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| periscopebill wrote: |
On a totally unrelated note I also took a look at my front end. On the way to the invasion I happened to do some unintentional off-roading, and may have hit a sign post... There's play both at 12 o'clock and 3 and 9. I went ahead and adjusted the upper torsion arms thinking that should at least help the play at 12o'clock. I followed exactly as the bentley instructed and it still feels exactly the same: loose. I also managed to break off the lock plate that goes over the adjusting bolt. How bad is it to drive around without it? Are these made anymore?
I also had aspirations to grease the front end as well, but apparently I bought the crappiest craftsman floor jack in the world, the pinched end of the bar that lowers the jack back down bent out, and was just spinning freely around the little thing that lowers the jack. Vice grips to the rescue, and I decided to take a break on front end things, until I pick up a new jack.
Other question- with the play at 3&9 D/A/N/ and neena had recommended tie rod ends. When we were looking at the play at 3 & 9 we could see the steering knuckle move around, which it is clearly not supposed to do. I ordered the tie rod ends and was prepared to get those swapped out today, but after my floor jack pooped out I figured now was a good time to ask a couple questions to clarify some things. Clearly things were bent in going off road- I went off the road to the right, so my thinking was the passenger side probably got the worst of it. The impact bar behind the bumper got shoved back and is now touching the axle. My question with the tie rod ends is- from what I've read the tie rod ends only ultimately affect the toe in. My car still tracks straight and doesn't seem to pull to either side. So would swapping tie rod ends help correct the play, even though the toe in seems to be fine in terms of tracking straight? Should I swap them anyway just in case?
Whenever I go over bumps I don't feel it in the steering wheel, so that says to me the steering damper is good. The front passenger tire also seems to be wearing down around the outer edge maybe an 1" wide, while the drivers side front tire looks to be fine. I've been driving like this since the invasion. It's clearly not good, but I'm sticking to in-city driving, I am definitely motivated to get this fixed, but with adjusting the torsion arm and it still being loose am I looking at more seriously bent components? |
Ok, I decided to break this long post up into seperate parts, since you've got 2 things going on that are unrelated to each other.
For the end play ajustment on the right upper side. If it still feels loose, then it might need another adjustment. I only say that, because if it's been a while since it was last done (before you just did it recently), it probably needs it again to tighten it up. For the metal tab, you can make 1 up out of some metal (like an old license plate) and some tin snips. It's job is to keep the bolt from backing out and falling out. That's why there's an allen head set screw holding the adjustment in place (it's like a lock bolt). You have to remove that set screw, BEFORE you can adjust the slop out of the bar. Page 16, section 8.1 of the steering section in Bentley calls that out. Then grease ALL 4 grease zerks. This will help take some of the play out too.
You've probably bent the tie rod on the right side. You'd have to pull it out to see IF it's bent though for sure. Replacing the ends of it will help get rid of some of the slop you're noticing. It's also possible that the rod is fine, but the wear on the joints (rod ends) has gotten so bad that you're thinking you bent something. The wear on the outer edge of the right tire is telling you this, as it's kind of wobbling as it goes down the road.
At this point in time, I'd do the torsion bar adjustment, grease the hell out of the front beam, and see if that helps. If you still notice the slop, then replace the right side tie rods ends (both on that side).
If it were my own car, I'd replace the lefts as well, and look into getting some ball joints, as the front end is probably coming due for rebuilding (replacement of worn parts). I hope this helps.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21520
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Sun Jul 27, 2014 1:05 pm Post subject: |
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A couple of points for information. When testing injector resistance they need to be unplugged. You want to test the injector solenoid resistance not the resistance of the thw circuit through the ecu to ground.
The injectors should be about 2.3 ohms.
Yes....the green tip could mean the injector is for a larger engine or it, could mean nothing. I have bags of tip covers somewhere...they all fit and gheu rqnge from yellow, black, green and blue and brown. I dont use them at all because they promote rust at the pintle in humid areas. Their only function is to prevent damage from bumping the tip.
The
But....next measure the resistance of the ground wire on eqch injector plug....again....unplugged from the injector...use the voltmeter with one probe on ground to verify which wire is ground and then check it. If the wire I a clean, uncracked and has nice. Crimps....maybe 10 ohms to ground or less.
Check your trigger points for operation. Ray |
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periscopebill
Samba Member
Joined: May 17, 2013
Posts: 148
Location: Brooklyn
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| Posted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 7:47 am Post subject: |
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| Bobnotch wrote: |
I'll try and take a stab at this.
The green injector will work for now, but it's really for a larger engine. You'll need to try and find a good yellow one. Maybe Tram or Jim Adney might have one.
The rubber "O" ring on injector #4 is supposed to be there. Your other ones (1,2,&3) probably are still stuck in there respective holes in the manifold. You'll probably need a bent pick to get them out. Ideally you should replace them, as re-using used seals might cause a vacuum leak.
To get injectors 1 and 4 to spray, you need to manually turn the engine 90 degrees on the distributor, or 180 degress at the crank. what you are seeing is a "batch" fire of injectors 2 and 3. With the engine rotated 180 degrees, the injectors 1 and 4 will batch fire.
This is where I like having a spare FI distributor, so I can just plug the 3 wire connector into it, and then rotate the distributor shaft to fire the PAIRs of injectors and watch the spray patterns.
Where are you getting these resistance readings? At the injectors themselves? Or thru somewhere/something else?
As for Jim recommending spraying some WD40, he's probably trying to get the vacuum port for the distributor clear, so the engine will advance correctly. This is partly why you noticed the idle jumping up. It's also because WD40 IS flammable, and will burn (note quite like gas). Since you're spraying it into the IAD (where the vacuum exists for that port), it's gotta go somewhere. That somewhere is thru the IAD to the valves, then out the tail pipe. It sounds like you've cleared the port though. |
Aha, thanks. I was clearly thinking all injectors magically sprayed at the same time. Got everything tested, all look to have good spray patterns, no drips.
Tested resistance correctly- thanks for clarifying that Bobnotch & Ray, I was putting the probes on both of the pins that plugged into the injectors not the injectors themselves. All injectors resistance read as follows:
1- 2.7
2- 2.6
3- 2.7/2.8
4. 2.7
I know the bentley says above 2.4 you should replace the injectors, but because these were all pretty close across the board are they okay?
I went to test resistance on the ground wires of each plug, I tried both pins of each plug with one probe grounded couldn't get a reading on either one.
Trigger points were replaced at the invasion from Jim Adney's stock. The trigger points in there originally were slow to return, even after greasing.
I'm finding even after a couple days of having the primer switch installed the same start issues are there. When cold it still takes a couple tries to start, when hot it's still surging for the first few minutes. Once it's going though it's totally fine. I've run the primer switch until I don't hear anymore bubbles in the tank, but doesn't seem to make a difference.
About the front end- thanks Bobnotch! I adjusted the torsion bar again, it feels nice and tight now. I also made up a new metal tab- felt quite accomplished (it really is the little things  ) I greased the axle, the left side took a lot, the right side less so, I probably used at least 1/2 tube of the grease. Needless to say, the ride is so much better it's crazy. Everything feels a lot more solid. I'm going to pull the right side tie rods ends next weekend and take a look. I have all four ends ready to go, and depending how long the right side takes I'll plan on looking at all of them. The ball joints were just replaced last June, but could this have accelerated their needing to be replaced as well? |
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eyetzr 
Samba Member
Joined: October 09, 2013
Posts: 1425
Location: Toronto, Ontario. Canada
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| Posted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 8:10 am Post subject: |
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| remember to measure the tie rod distance apart before ripping apart to help keep the alignment issues to a minimum. |
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periscopebill
Samba Member
Joined: May 17, 2013
Posts: 148
Location: Brooklyn
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| Posted: Fri Sep 12, 2014 11:32 am Post subject: |
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So it's been a while and I thought I would post an update. Since last time around I got an alignment as well as the steering box adjusted. That seemed to solve the issues with the front end, which was great news, as I really wanted to avoid pulling apart the tie rods if it wasn't necessary. Thanks again for all of the advice regarding that!
About 2 weeks ago I actually road tripped out to Wisconsin and got at lot of great help and advice from Jim Adney. Initially the purpose of going out there was to take a look at the clutch as it seemed to be slipping, and then while the engine was out we were going to do a general check over everything. (Who better to take a look at all of that- right?  ) We did find a lot of little things that were wrong, and it was great to get all of those corrected. Especially when we found that one of the pushrod tubes had a dent and puncture from someone manhandling the thermostat bracket into place- explains the super filthy right side of the engine, and oil loss.
Anyway, we had pulled the engine, done all this investigating and then put it all back together. Ultimately the cause for the clutch issue ended up being that the entire time I've had a beetle pedal assembly and not the correct type 3 set up. Since cleaning all of that up it's been great, and nice to know that so many of these little hack jobs over time have been corrected.
Also- as an answer to all the surging and crapola at idle- it turned out the AAR that I had swapped out a couple months ago from Jim was totally out of adjustment. We pulled it out and found the adjusting screw was totally loose, and then fixing it, combined with readjusting the TPS has eliminated the idling issues.
My question now is this- I was reading in D/A/N's thread about a "shoes in dryer" sound, and there's been a similar sound going on since reinstalling the engine. It goes on regardless of having the clutch in or out, and it echoes down through the tunnel. It seems to be constant and rhythmic, but it's faint enough to not be able to hear it when you're driving. Primarily it's noticeable at idle. I believe other people mentioned it could be the clutch cable guide tube, is that something that could've been bumped somehow while dropping the engine? When we swapped the pedal cluster we pulled out the clutch cable to check it but all looked good, so we just greased and reinstalled it. I'd try to post a video but I don't think my phone would even pick up the sound. This is a new sound since reinstalling the engine. |
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KTPhil
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Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 34021
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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| Posted: Fri Sep 12, 2014 3:46 pm Post subject: |
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A rattle at idle might be something in the shift rod, either the front bushing or the rear coupler under the car.
A broken clutch tube would not happen putting the engine in the car. And it would have other symptoms (like grinding gears and a funny pedal feel). |
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22431
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Fri Sep 12, 2014 6:11 pm Post subject: |
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| periscopebill wrote: |
My question now is this- I was reading in D/A/N's thread about a "shoes in dryer" sound, and there's been a similar sound going on since reinstalling the engine. It goes on regardless of having the clutch in or out, and it echoes down through the tunnel. It seems to be constant and rhythmic, but it's faint enough to not be able to hear it when you're driving. Primarily it's noticeable at idle. I'd try to post a video but I don't think my phone would even pick up the sound. This is a new sound since reinstalling the engine. |
Is it possible that the fan belt needs to be tightened (a shim removed from the inside of the gen pulley)? I'm only asking, as that's about the only place I can think of for that kind of sound.
And I know you and Jim replaced ALL of the clutch components (throw out bearing, disc, pressure plate), so the sound's not coming from there.
I also ruled out a CV joint, as you're mentioning it only being noticable at idle, but it also sounds from you're description that the car isn't moving. If I'm wrong, please let us know, as that changes things.
Note; that sound might have been there before the work you did, but you couldn't hear it before due to something else "over sounding" it.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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periscopebill
Samba Member
Joined: May 17, 2013
Posts: 148
Location: Brooklyn
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| Posted: Mon Sep 15, 2014 7:03 am Post subject: |
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Thanks KTPhil for the info, it's like a low grinding sound that comes from the engine and seems to echo down through the tunnel. But I'm definitely not feeling anything weird in the pedal, so thanks for clarifying.
| Bobnotch wrote: |
Is it possible that the fan belt needs to be tightened (a shim removed from the inside of the gen pulley)? I'm only asking, as that's about the only place I can think of for that kind of sound.
And I know you and Jim replaced ALL of the clutch components (throw out bearing, disc, pressure plate), so the sound's not coming from there.
I also ruled out a CV joint, as you're mentioning it only being noticable at idle, but it also sounds from you're description that the car isn't moving. If I'm wrong, please let us know, as that changes things. Wink
Note; that sound might have been there before the work you did, but you couldn't hear it before due to something else "over sounding" it. |
We actually did tighten up the fan belt by one shim, as the belt was a little loose. There was some sound coming from the generator bearings so those were replaced. As far as the clutch components we actually didn't replace the throw out bearing- which now I'm wondering if that was a dumb thing not to do? Jim said it looked fine. The sound is present with the clutch in or out. I do hear it faintly sometimes at lower rpms while driving, though for the most part engine noise seems to drown it out, or moving makes it stop? I think I need to have someone sit in the backseat and listen for it while driving. It's especially noticeable at idle. There was a previous rattle going on from the generator bracket that had a bolt stripped, but we helicoiled that. We also redrilled and helicoiled the two bolts in the fan housing as one with stripped and the other was loose. I'm going to try to take a video and see if it'll pick up the sound and post it here. Thanks! |
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periscopebill
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Joined: May 17, 2013
Posts: 148
Location: Brooklyn
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| Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 1:02 pm Post subject: |
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This is probably a long shot. I did my best to record the sound- it's super faint, but if you can shove an ear up against a speaker, or maybe through headphones it'll work. I can hear it with my iphone speaker against my ear. I checked but none of the john muir engine noises are close to it. Anyway, here's a video that has the low grinding/vibration sound- lower pitched than the engine noise. Any ideas?
Link
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D/A/N
Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2010
Posts: 2227
Location: 11222
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| Posted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 5:50 am Post subject: |
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| periscopebill wrote: |
This is probably a long shot. I did my best to record the sound- it's super faint, but if you can shove an ear up against a speaker, or maybe through headphones it'll work. I can hear it with my iphone speaker against my ear. I checked but none of the john muir engine noises are close to it. Anyway, here's a video that has the low grinding/vibration sound- lower pitched than the engine noise. Any ideas?
Link
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Does the engine seem or feel to be vibrating/shaking any more than it used to? |
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periscopebill
Samba Member
Joined: May 17, 2013
Posts: 148
Location: Brooklyn
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| Posted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 6:22 am Post subject: |
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| D/A/N wrote: |
| Does the engine seem or feel to be vibrating/shaking any more than it used to? |
Not that I can tell. I have noticed the engine seems to be sitting up higher than it used to. Some of the hoses are rubbing against the engine lid, like the one to the air cleaner, which is definitely concerning. Could it be pulling up on the transmission and causing the sound? From the engine mounts it doesn't seem like there's really room for adjustment. Is there an adjustment you can do where it mates to the transmission to adjust the height? |
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D/A/N
Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2010
Posts: 2227
Location: 11222
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| Posted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 6:37 am Post subject: |
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| periscopebill wrote: |
| D/A/N wrote: |
| Does the engine seem or feel to be vibrating/shaking any more than it used to? |
Not that I can tell. I have noticed the engine seems to be sitting up higher than it used to. Some of the hoses are rubbing against the engine lid, like the one to the air cleaner, which is definitely concerning. Could it be pulling up on the transmission and causing the sound? From the engine mounts it doesn't seem like there's really room for adjustment. Is there an adjustment you can do where it mates to the transmission to adjust the height? |
Are you sure it's not just that the hose was re-rerouted such that it now rises higher?
I guess the engine could be sitting higher if the mounts were shimmed but that's outside of my experience.
For "fun" you might check and see what's up at the trans mount ....maybe it's cracked or got mangled somehow during the removal and replacement? Maybe the bolts are loose? Also maybe check that the rear engine carrier bolts are tight all along the way and that the main mounts are tight. |
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eyetzr
Samba Member
Joined: October 09, 2013
Posts: 1425
Location: Toronto, Ontario. Canada
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| Posted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 7:02 am Post subject: |
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Not sure about late model engine hangers, but my 69 has an upper & lower position for the moustache bar to bolt to.
_________________
I think he meant "rare", as in "not well-done" |
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periscopebill
Samba Member
Joined: May 17, 2013
Posts: 148
Location: Brooklyn
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| Posted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 7:08 am Post subject: |
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| D/A/N wrote: |
Are you sure it's not just that the hose was re-rerouted such that it now rises higher?
I guess the engine could be sitting higher if the mounts were shimmed but that's outside of my experience.
For "fun" you might check and see what's up at the trans mount ....maybe it's cracked or got mangled somehow during the removal and replacement? Maybe the bolts are loose? Also maybe check that the rear engine carrier bolts are tight all along the way and that the main mounts are tight. |
That's what's weird with the hoses, nothing was changed- its the two hoses that run from the aar to air cleaner and the oil breather to air cleaner. It even looks like 1/2 of the spark plug wires on the distributor cap are rubbing.
I'll take a look at the mounts. We supported the trans when we pulled the engine, but maybe the rope had too much slack and caused stress on the mount. And just to make sure- the rear engine carrier bolts are the 2 bolts on each side of the engine, then the main mounts are the bolts engine to transmission? |
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KTPhil
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 34021
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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| Posted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 8:49 am Post subject: |
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| eyetzr wrote: |
| Not sure about late model engine hangers, but my 69 has an upper & lower position for the moustache bar to bolt to. |
My late version (if there is such a thing) has two bolts per side. But BOTH bolts have to be used-- they are not for using one bolt and selecting height. And use lock nuts... you don't want them coming loose from vibration! |
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22431
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 9:30 am Post subject: |
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| periscopebill wrote: |
That's what's weird with the hoses, nothing was changed- its the two hoses that run from the aar to air cleaner and the oil breather to air cleaner. It even looks like 1/2 of the spark plug wires on the distributor cap are rubbing. |
I'd look to see if something is causing the side rubber mounts to hang up, causing the engine to sit higher. That's about the only thing I can think of that would cause the engine to sit higher in the engine bay.
Also check the trans mount (up front), and see if it's cracked or broken. If it is, that will cause the motor/trans to tip (down in front, up in the rear). But, I'd think Jim would have noticed that.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22431
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 9:31 am Post subject: |
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| KTPhil wrote: |
| eyetzr wrote: |
| Not sure about late model engine hangers, but my 69 has an upper & lower position for the moustache bar to bolt to. |
My late version (if there is such a thing) has two bolts per side. But BOTH bolts have to be used-- they are not for using one bolt and selecting height. And use lock nuts... you don't want them coming loose from vibration! |
Yes, all of mine are like that too. Can you post a pic of yours eyetzr? Just asking, as the type 3 parts book only calls out 1 engine carrier (part number 311 109 203A).
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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