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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 9:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So a NOS Bosch distributor doesn't fit correctly? What a crock of *%#^.
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Thrasher22
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 9:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My feeling exactly... With shipping and the exchange rate, I'm into this for over $300 too. Evil or Very Mad

I'm going to try shaving some more off the tabs that engage with the drive gear and see if that helps. They're still significantly wider than what is on my 009.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 9:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thrasher22 wrote:
My feeling exactly... With shipping and the exchange rate, I'm into this for over $300 too. Evil or Very Mad

I'm going to try shaving some more off the tabs that engage with the drive gear and see if that helps. They're still significantly wider than what is on my 009.


You could just swap out the drive dog. All you need to do is pries out the retaining ring and then use a punch to drive out the pin. Just be sure to clock the replacement dog the same way as the one you are taking off.
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Thrasher22
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 6:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The pin was pretty stuck, so I just filed a little more of the drive dog and measured to make sure it matched my old one.

It was still running pretty poorly, so I started pulling out all the FI electrical connections and gave them a good clean. Then when I plugged it all back together, I must have mixed up two of the wires going to the coil, and almost started an electrical fire by over heating the wires going to the condenser and points, and fried the condenser Evil or Very Mad

In frustration, I pulled the SVDA out, gave my old 009 a good dose of lubricant, reinstalled it and...
The bus ran better than ever Rolling Eyes The issue must be with the new distributor, which is really frustrating.

I've been picking at this for weeks, so I think I'm just going to run the 009 for now. I do want to get the SVDA in there eventually as I know its the better choice for my engine, but its I want to take advantage of summer while I have it and go to a (my first) local VW show and cruise this weekend.
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udidwht
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 7:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't assume that because the distributor is new that it isn't dirty or gummed up. Take the distributor out and clean it out thoroughly by removing the screw under the felt pad. Be careful with the vac advance plate when removing. Clean everything well then lightly lube with some distributor grease. Pay close attention to the inner and outer OD of the upper advance mechanism.

If the timing range is narrow don't worry sweat it. A lot of new distributors will start with a narrow range that widens overtime.
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1972 Westy Hardtop/Type-4 2056cc
96mm Biral AA P/C's~7.8:1CR
Headflow Masters New AMC 42x36mm heads w/Porsche swivel adjusters
71mm Stroke
73 Web Cam w/Web solids
Dual 40mm IDF Webers - LM-2 - 47.5 idles/125 mains/190 air corr./F11 tubes/28mm Vents - Float height 10.45mm/Drop 32mm
Bosch SVDA w/Pertronix module (7.5 initial 28 total @ 3400rpm)
Bosch W8CC plugs
Pertronix Flamethrower 40K coil
S&S 4-1 w/Walker QP 17862
3 rib 002 Trans
185R14 Hankook tires
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Thrasher22
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 7:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good point! I'll give it a good clean tomorrow.

I spoke to soon by assuming that switching back solved all my problems, started it again after dinner and it was backfiring a little again (but still better than with the SVDA though).

I also pulled off the throttle to give it a good clean, and noticed a crack in the intake boot that I hadn't seen before. I epoxied the heck out of it and will see if that helps!
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 9:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am wondering if you don't have some cheap copy of a Bosch SVDA distributor. The problems you are having with it just don't sound like what I would expect for a NOS Bosch unit. For something brand new from Bosch, then maybe yes, but the old stuff was very good.
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Thrasher22
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 17, 2014 10:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It looks pretty legit? Hopefully that's not the case, I'll give it another go when I've gotten a few miles under the bus when its running well.

On that note, I got it running MUCH better the last couple days. I gave the 009 a good clean/lube, reinstalled it, tightened the screw that holds the condenser down (must have come loose), readjusted my hydraulic valves, , cleaned the throttle, changed the oil, and made a block off plate for the EGR with sheet metal and spare rubber. Previously the EGR "block off" was just the PO putting a bunch of seam sealer on the valve.

Each step made a small difference, but re-sealing the EGR made the biggest, despite it not showing trouble when I sprayed with carb cleaner, and when I adjusted the valves, #3 wasn't even pre-loaded 1/2 of a turn.

I'll take it for a drive tonight, but just running in the garage last night, the idle was nice and even, zero back firing at idle or on acceleration, but would pop a little when I let off the gas. I'm guessing that's the decel valve, but I haven't been able to find how to test it.

EDIT: I forgot to mention:
One weird thing has started happening: When I run the engine for a few min and shut it off, I can hear weird "squishing" sound coming from somewhere around the block for 15 - 20 seconds. It sounds like pulling your foot out of deep mud, or sucking air between your teeth.
I've never noticed until a couple days ago on the bus, and have never heard a car make a sound like it... Anyone have an idea of what could be causing it?
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udidwht
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 17, 2014 4:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Use a length of hose and start listening around the exhaust sealing joints as well as the cylinder head - cylinder mating surfaces. Best done with engine fired up from stone cold. Raise the rear so you have more room.
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1972 Westy Hardtop/Type-4 2056cc
96mm Biral AA P/C's~7.8:1CR
Headflow Masters New AMC 42x36mm heads w/Porsche swivel adjusters
71mm Stroke
73 Web Cam w/Web solids
Dual 40mm IDF Webers - LM-2 - 47.5 idles/125 mains/190 air corr./F11 tubes/28mm Vents - Float height 10.45mm/Drop 32mm
Bosch SVDA w/Pertronix module (7.5 initial 28 total @ 3400rpm)
Bosch W8CC plugs
Pertronix Flamethrower 40K coil
S&S 4-1 w/Walker QP 17862
3 rib 002 Trans
185R14 Hankook tires
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carltoncleans
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2014 1:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Im bring my bus back from the dead (sitting forever before me) and got the same distributor from bus depot. My fit in ok, sucks urs didnt. What was ur point gap to get 50 dwell? I set mine to stock .016-.020 range and my dwell is high or im reading the dwell meter from sears wrong. Just curious.
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Thrasher22
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2014 8:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

udidwht wrote:
Use a length of hose and start listening around the exhaust sealing joints as well as the cylinder head - cylinder mating surfaces. Best done with engine fired up from stone cold. Raise the rear so you have more room.

Good idea! I had success with this while I was tracking down leaks, but I hadn't thought of it. It didn't make the sound last night, but I'll try again.

carltoncleans wrote:
Im bring my bus back from the dead (sitting forever before me) and got the same distributor from bus depot. My fit in ok, sucks urs didnt. What was ur point gap to get 50 dwell? I set mine to stock .016-.020 range and my dwell is high or im reading the dwell meter from sears wrong. Just curious.


What kind of readings are you getting? I started with mine at 0.016" and the dwell reading was around 42*, so I just slowly closed the gap until the reading was closer to 50*. Its really hard (for me) to tell if I'm inserting the feeler gauge straight when the dist is in the bus, so I relied more on the dwell meter than the feeler gauge.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2014 8:53 am    Post subject: Smoke Tester Reply with quote

Smoke Tester
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carltoncleans
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 6:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kool. So smaller is higher. The mrter from sears says doubke the V8. But i noticed on rpm that double didnt make since. I think they meant half. I was getting over sixty. So 120 by going by the meter mis-typed china directions? Must be 30. Im going to go it again today since i now have the snail air synC tool to set my new redlines.

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Thrasher22
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 9:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

carltoncleans wrote:
Kool. So smaller is higher. The mrter from sears says doubke the V8. But i noticed on rpm that double didnt make since. I think they meant half. I was getting over sixty. So 120 by going by the meter mis-typed china directions? Must be 30. Im going to go it again today since i now have the snail air synC tool to set my new redlines.

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Mine also said to double the reading if its a 4 cyl, so my actual reading was 25 or whatever. Yeah if you pre-set your gap with a feeler, it should be pretty close. I doubt it would run if it was as high as 120.
At least on mine, the "double" instructions definitely only apply to the dwell setting, I have to change the meter to read tach (just a switch).

I haven't had a chance to get my bus out for a drive since the last round of big improvements due to wedding busyness, but it was running nice and smooth in the garage last night still. I'm going to drive the heck out of it the next week to make sure everything is going smoothly before the wedding, we're planning on driving away from the ceremony in it and getting some photos done with it Very Happy

I'll finally update my resto thread when we get those...
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Thrasher22
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2014 8:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well took it out for a rip tonight and after about 5-10 minutes the popping came back Sad

Unless I'm getting leaks from where the breather hose connects into the intake boot, I'm stumped... I might just give in and take it to a mechanic, but that hurts my pride a little.
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