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Mike Fisher
Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006
Posts: 17970
Location: Eugene, OR
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 Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 8:39 am Post subject: |
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I use 2 floor jacks to pull & drop it all down onto cardboard or plywood. Then separate the engine from the transmission to make them easier to move. Don't forget the 2 heater cables attached to the heater boxes.
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https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey |
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KTPhil 
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 34022
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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| Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 9:22 am Post subject: |
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| Google "hanta virus" and take precautions before cleaning up that mouse nest. |
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eyetzr
Samba Member
Joined: October 09, 2013
Posts: 1425
Location: Toronto, Ontario. Canada
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| Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 9:28 am Post subject: |
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| nice automotive advice as well as health warnings. I was unaware of this, I know that there is an issue with bat & pigeon crap |
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Cplatcek
Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2014
Posts: 49
Location: Two Harbors
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| Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 9:29 am Post subject: |
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| Mike Fisher wrote: |
| I use 2 floor jacks to pull & drop it all down onto cardboard or plywood. Then separate the engine from the transmission to make them easier to move. Don't forget the 2 heater cables attached to the heater boxes. |
Thanks! thats the info im looking for |
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Cplatcek
Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2014
Posts: 49
Location: Two Harbors
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| Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 9:34 am Post subject: |
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| KTPhil wrote: |
| Google "hanta virus" and take precautions before cleaning up that mouse nest. |
Yikes! thanks for the heads up. Some nasty stuff out there! I dont think im even going to touch that area under the back seat - nothing i can use in there.
Pretty much going to yank the motor and trans out, steering column, dash, seat belt buckles, door handles, rear hatch lock and lights.
Then scrap the rest i think...i might pull fenders and doors they are actually pretty solid and all the glass thats good too. |
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eyetzr
Samba Member
Joined: October 09, 2013
Posts: 1425
Location: Toronto, Ontario. Canada
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| Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 10:09 am Post subject: |
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| I think the advice would be to be careful about anything we touch or remove from a parked car. The little fellows could have set up shop on top of the trans, inside cooling tins, exhaust. Dust masks & gloves. Best of luck. |
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Mike Fisher
Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006
Posts: 17970
Location: Eugene, OR
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| Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 2:02 pm Post subject: |
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You need a #4 phillips head bit from Sears & a 1/2" breaker bar to remove the door bolts. Press real hard & don't strip them or you have to drill/easy-out them out!  A 12? point allen head socket for the IRS axle bolts. A 17mm allen head for the transmission oil check plug. A $5 remote starter button from Harbor Freight means you can work/tune alone. Buy a pack of alligator clips at Harbor Freight to make hooking up the remote starter button easier. Squish a couple plastic ends off the alligator clips, squish the metal tube flat in your vice & they will help in reaching up to the starter in the car.
_________________
https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey |
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DONGKG
The Araneta Boys
Joined: August 28, 2006
Posts: 5475
Location: Cainta, Rizal, Philippines, "A Certified Type 3 and Karmann Ghia Maniac"
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| Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 3:54 am Post subject: |
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| Brent wrote: |
| marchi wrote: |
| no the blue car should have a swing axle trans, where as the yellow has an irs. can not swap those. engine you can swap just change engine components to 12v ones. |
The blue car motor will not work in the yellow car. It does not have the IRS hanger to mount it.
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I think I am seeing a 010 Bosch! Cool square back!
_________________
'67 KG Cabrio (Mickey) ;
'66 Type 3 (Sharky 2)
'72 Type 2 Homey
'67 Splitty Bus
'65 beetle;'69 Country Buggy; '44 Kubelwagen (replica) TOOB MEMBER #20 |
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Cplatcek
Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2014
Posts: 49
Location: Two Harbors
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| Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 7:40 am Post subject: |
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Got the motor and trans out! They are so simple to take out! I was amazed
Im going to pull the engine tin off and clean it all up and paint everything. Any advice for removing the tin?
Removing everything else i can think of before the scrap yard....anything you guys can think of to remove? Im taking all the glass, steering column, dash, lights, door locks, rear hatch locks, gas tank.
I was also thinking about pulling the fenders too....
Is there another way to get the hood open? I tried crawling under the car and spraying the latch but the spare tire is still there.
Thanks |
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eyetzr
Samba Member
Joined: October 09, 2013
Posts: 1425
Location: Toronto, Ontario. Canada
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| Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 8:00 am Post subject: |
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there was a cocktail in here about using acetone & automatic trans oil as a rusty hardware removal lube. I would say if you are saving the hood you will have to cut out the front panel to access the lock, or vent some frustrations & get a big pry bar out & have at 'er.  |
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Mike Fisher
Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006
Posts: 17970
Location: Eugene, OR
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| Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 8:36 am Post subject: |
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I have taken my grinder to a front apron & cut a big square hole at the bottom of it to get the hood open. By all means pull & save the 4 fenders.
_________________
https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey |
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22431
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 3:10 pm Post subject: |
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| Cplatcek wrote: |
Is there another way to get the hood open? I tried crawling under the car and spraying the latch but the spare tire is still there. |
A sort of minimally invasive way, is to drill a 1/4 inch hole, 17 1/2 inches from the fender welt and about 3/4 inches down from the protruding body line just under the hood lip. Then use a screw driver to flick the latch (inserted end of screw driver) arm to release the hood pin. Afterward, you can put a plastic plug in the hole, or weld the hole closed. 
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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ataraxia
Samba Member
Joined: March 19, 2010
Posts: 4504
Location: Illinois
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| Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 4:46 pm Post subject: |
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| If you're going to scrap the rest of the donor car, I can use the rear seat belt mounts and the rear seat kick panel. I'll buy them from you if you can email me some photos and they're in decent shape. |
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Cplatcek
Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2014
Posts: 49
Location: Two Harbors
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| Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 5:16 pm Post subject: |
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| Bobnotch wrote: |
| Cplatcek wrote: |
Is there another way to get the hood open? I tried crawling under the car and spraying the latch but the spare tire is still there. |
A sort of minimally invasive way, is to drill a 1/4 inch hole, 17 1/2 inches from the fender welt and about 3/4 inches down from the protruding body line just under the hood lip. Then use a screw driver to flick the latch (inserted end of screw driver) arm to release the hood pin. Afterward, you can put a plastic plug in the hole, or weld the hole closed. |
I might give that a shot, Thanks! The latch releases by pushing back - towards the rear of the car; not sideways? |
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Cplatcek
Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2014
Posts: 49
Location: Two Harbors
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| Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 5:17 pm Post subject: |
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| ataraxia wrote: |
| If you're going to scrap the rest of the donor car, I can use the rear seat belt mounts and the rear seat kick panel. I'll buy them from you if you can email me some photos and they're in decent shape. |
I'm not 100% sure what parts you need, care to explain more or pics? Can i unbolt them or are they welded in? I'm sure they are still in the car. |
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ataraxia
Samba Member
Joined: March 19, 2010
Posts: 4504
Location: Illinois
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| Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 5:30 pm Post subject: |
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| Cplatcek wrote: |
| ataraxia wrote: |
| If you're going to scrap the rest of the donor car, I can use the rear seat belt mounts and the rear seat kick panel. I'll buy them from you if you can email me some photos and they're in decent shape. |
I'm not 100% sure what parts you need, care to explain more or pics? Can i unbolt them or are they welded in? I'm sure they are still in the car. |
The vertical panel that the back seat hinges are attached to is the kick panel. It's spot welded to the pan. They're typically rusted out at the bottom on the passenger's side because of battery acid. It goes all the way across the pan but can be cut in half at the middle where it arches over the tunnel.
[/img]
The seat belt mounts are where the seat belts are mounted to the body. You could cut them out with a sawzall if you have one. There are two in the middle of the back seat. Since I don't own a late car-I'm not 100% sure where the outer mounts are located. I'd take a whole set or just the two as long as the whole bracket is intact (it's about 2" wide by 4" long, IIRC).
Let me know! |
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22431
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 6:25 pm Post subject: |
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| Cplatcek wrote: |
| Bobnotch wrote: |
| Cplatcek wrote: |
Is there another way to get the hood open? I tried crawling under the car and spraying the latch but the spare tire is still there. |
A sort of minimally invasive way, is to drill a 1/4 inch hole, 17 1/2 inches from the fender welt and about 3/4 inches down from the protruding body line just under the hood lip. Then use a screw driver to flick the latch (inserted end of screw driver) arm to release the hood pin. Afterward, you can put a plastic plug in the hole, or weld the hole closed. |
I might give that a shot, Thanks! The latch releases by pushing back - towards the rear of the car; not sideways? |
No, on 70 to 73 cars the cable pulls the latch release lever to the right (passenger side) of the car. I should know, as I've got a 70 and a 71 sitting here. this is why I suggested flicking the release arm with the tip of a screw driver. You just slide it in there, until you feel that release nub, the flick it to the right (screw driver tip). If it doesn't release that way, then the hodd has shifted in the opening, and you might need a helper.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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Cplatcek
Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2014
Posts: 49
Location: Two Harbors
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| Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 9:01 pm Post subject: |
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| ataraxia wrote: |
| Cplatcek wrote: |
| ataraxia wrote: |
| If you're going to scrap the rest of the donor car, I can use the rear seat belt mounts and the rear seat kick panel. I'll buy them from you if you can email me some photos and they're in decent shape. |
I'm not 100% sure what parts you need, care to explain more or pics? Can i unbolt them or are they welded in? I'm sure they are still in the car. |
The vertical panel that the back seat hinges are attached to is the kick panel. It's spot welded to the pan. They're typically rusted out at the bottom on the passenger's side because of battery acid. It goes all the way across the pan but can be cut in half at the middle where it arches over the tunnel.
The seat belt mounts are where the seat belts are mounted to the body. You could cut them out with a sawzall if you have one. There are two in the middle of the back seat. Since I don't own a late car-I'm not 100% sure where the outer mounts are located. I'd take a whole set or just the two as long as the whole bracket is intact (it's about 2" wide by 4" long, IIRC).
Let me know! |
Ill take a look in the morning, its pretty rusty back there so i wouldnt be surprised if they were toast. What do you think you would pay for them and how would i get them to you?
Thanks |
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Cplatcek
Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2014
Posts: 49
Location: Two Harbors
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| Posted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 8:47 am Post subject: |
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| Anyone have a recommendation for a fuel pump? I was thinking an inline electric one from like Summit or Jegs would work? |
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NDAHAUS
Samba Member
Joined: July 11, 2014
Posts: 37
Location: Slinger, WI
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| Posted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 9:16 am Post subject: |
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| I did the Airtex E2000 fuel pump. Available at Autozone for $90. There is a good write up on how to do the install somewhere on this site. Has detailed instructions and pictures. I am however thinking of adding an inline pressure regulator after my pump. Start ups are fine but if the car has been running for a while, I have a hard time restarting after shutting it off. My only rememdy so far is to pull the fuse for the fuel pump and wait for it to clear out and fire, then plug fuse back in. I am assuming you have FI? |
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