Overheating?

Eric&Barb · Posted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 9:53 am Post subject:

Take out the oil booster kit! Without gauges you can blow out the oil cooler, its seals, or even swell up the cooler so cooling air will not go thru it!!

Fix the cooling problem first and again expect the engine to run hot right now due to the corrosion.

Get oil pressure and oil temp gauges to make sure what is going on in the engine and do not guess.

Years ago a friend built an engine for us. We installed gauges and saw that the oil pressure would not go below 60 Lbs. in 70 F weather. Above 80 Lbs. and you can damage the oil cooling system. Turned out the oil pressure relief valve spring was one of those after market booster springs.....

Have saved us from at least five "need to rebuild the engine now" situations by having gauges.

Understand the frustration you are having, but this is the reality of getting an old car and at same time the lack of experience you have. It is a hump you will have to climb over and it really helps to post before buying/installing something like the oil boost kit. In other words "haste makes waste".
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pupi305 · Posted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 10:35 am Post subject:

Eric&Barb · Posted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 1:31 pm Post subject:

All depends on the size of the senders. Might be better to just buy a set of VDO gauges and senders that will fit.
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In Stereo, Where Available!

dihorul · Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 7:25 am Post subject:

I have this problem of overheating. After half hour the temperature goes up to 130 C. No mater if is a city drive or highway.
I have all the thins and the rubbers in place, is a 1600 engine rebuild.
I suspect that the cause is the temperature sensor witch is install under the engine in the left side replacing the the screw that aloes you to regulate the oil pressure.
The temperature sensor is designed to fit there and it keeps the inner parts on (the spring &).
I cannot think at other scenario.
Any ideas?
Thanks!

PS: I just ordered an extra oil pan (1.7 lt. capacity). I hope that the extra oil can help the cooling.
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March or die

tb03830 · Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 8:32 am Post subject:

Don't get too frustrated. You will always have issues with a bug but the question is do you love your bug. Mine was VERY frustrating for a time but as I figured the issues out life got better. Now when something happens I see it for what is worth and generally know how to fix it. This site has all the answers. Dr Scope knows what he is talking about, replace your tins.

My suggestion it to do a FULL tune up. Replace the tins. Run it with a tennis ball on the lock on the deck lid in the summer and see were you stand. I bet it is combination of tins and tunning.

After changing the oil your light came back on Confused

Seen that lots myself. It has something to do with the viscosity. What grade of oil did you change it with? Everyone seems to go with 10W-30 but I like to go a little thicker especially in the summer when temps are higher and the oil thins out as the temps go higher.

Fuel smell: Where do you smell it from? I had a issue with the smell coming from the hood area and it was combination of old fuel lines and a bad cap gasket. As long as I do not spill it does not smell any longer. Also does your pressure relief spicket on the fill tube work. Mine did not and I had to open it. The tube on it is critical for pressure release and making it so the smell is not a constant problem when the car is parked. A loop is required in the line for proper pressure.
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"Sic Vic Pacem, Para bellum - Pray for peace, prepare for war."

1964 Convertible Bug - 1600cc SP engine with a stock H30/31 Carb and SVDA Distributor - Swing Arm Highway Flyer Tranny, Gene Berg's Temperature Dipstick, 2.5" drop spindles, 2" narrowed adjustable front end. Chromed OEM fan tower.

tasb · Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 10:59 am Post subject:

You should also consider reinstalling the thermostat- yes acvw had them, and the cooling flaps inside the fan shroud. No one has mentioned them yet.

I recently drove my 1965 Bus- a lot heavier than a bug, all day in 110 degree F heat and the engine temp was 182. I then climbed a mountain on the same day in the same heat 7,000 feet in 12 miles and the temperature was 190 F.

Here's a helpful link:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=48385&highlight=

I run straight 30 weight oil in the summer.
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Roads Scholar &
1957 Kombi low mileage 36 hp governor equipped M 178 Slow Drag Winner 2014, 2015, 2018

1965 hardtop Deluxe Microbus owned since 1990 M 620 factory 12 v 1500cc

1961 (October)Single Cab- Road Trip Workhorse

Eric&Barb · Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 5:23 pm Post subject:

dihorul · Posted: Fri Jul 25, 2014 1:03 am Post subject:

ThingBeast · Posted: Fri Jul 25, 2014 3:55 am Post subject:

Dihorul, before you change oil to 15w40, try SAE30. That is what i use in my 2007cc engine. It is much thicker and really works well. Keeps my engine at 175 degree all day in the hot Houston Texas weather. If that doesn't work, go back to the 15w40.

crvc · Samba Member Joined: April 28, 2004 Posts: 1308

Hoover's website says you should replace old coolers. He said they can't be cleaned and over the decades bits of metal fill the cooler, preventing it's cooling capacity. I've dealt with overheating more than two years now. Everything except the cooler has been replaced. I just replaced the cooler today and will see what happens this weekend.

crvc

tasb · Posted: Fri Jul 25, 2014 6:30 pm Post subject:

I have reused oil coolers since 1977 without any issues. I heed a lot of what Hoover says and his opinion on coolers may have been written when quality new ones were still available and probably still cheap- not so anymore.
_________________
Roads Scholar &
1957 Kombi low mileage 36 hp governor equipped M 178 Slow Drag Winner 2014, 2015, 2018

1965 hardtop Deluxe Microbus owned since 1990 M 620 factory 12 v 1500cc

1961 (October)Single Cab- Road Trip Workhorse

Joel · Posted: Fri Jul 25, 2014 11:12 pm Post subject:

crvc · Samba Member Joined: April 28, 2004 Posts: 1308

tasb · Posted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 5:38 am Post subject:

Keep an eye on your cooler. I do not have any personal experience with the new ones because I reuse the old ones but I have read on here that the new ones leak after some time.
_________________
Roads Scholar &
1957 Kombi low mileage 36 hp governor equipped M 178 Slow Drag Winner 2014, 2015, 2018

1965 hardtop Deluxe Microbus owned since 1990 M 620 factory 12 v 1500cc

1961 (October)Single Cab- Road Trip Workhorse

jzjames · Posted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 9:33 am Post subject:

I ran across this interesting Chris Vallone article on VW bug vaporlock, take a look;
http://www.classicvwbugs.com/2014/05/09/classic-vw-bugs-our-gas-today-vapor-lock-beetle-overheating/

apensity · Posted: Wed Jul 19, 2017 12:25 pm Post subject:

Jody '71 · Posted: Thu Jul 20, 2017 8:02 am Post subject: Re: Overheating?

Back to Pupi. You may have already damaged your engine driving it around with all the missing cooling tin parts and engine seals not being in place. Even if you do fix it up proper, it might still give you problems. Best of luck.
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'66 Beetle
2011 Hyundai Elantra Touring

arizonabuckeye · Posted: Thu Jul 20, 2017 8:19 am Post subject:

Scorcho · Posted: Thu Jul 25, 2019 5:39 pm Post subject: Re: Overheating?

Any idea how I can cover up these holes?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Eric&Barb · Posted: Thu Jul 25, 2019 7:31 pm Post subject: Re: Overheating?


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