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jakekrupa
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Joined: July 16, 2014
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2014 6:31 am    Post subject: New project Reply with quote

I got this thing today. Dude built it for his wife and she lost interest so i got it for a steal (hence all the sexy pink accents n shit). It has a built 1641, i'll get all the specs and whats done to it sometime next week. Has IRS. 3rib. Dual shock setup. Heavy duty steering with 1" tie rods. Feels like im driving a tank its super stiff. But i have alot of questions regarding this thing. I want to make it street legal but still have the ability to go light off-road when i'd like. With that being said, allow me to flood you with questions Very Happy

As it sits. the pink just melts your heart doesnt it?
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This 1/8" aluminum shit has to be super heavy, should i get rid of it and scrap it and put in cheese grater bottom or just keep it? Deff trying to keep this thing on a diet.
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Should i keep this bumpstops or throw them away if i go lower?
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Aftermarket exhaust? Dude said it was stock but it says EMPI...
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Its so cute isnt it? So there are no bolts or studs for the front wheels. If i wanted to put street wheels on it how would i go about this? also, a front disc conversion would be cool. how would i go about that? corvair setup?
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Can i keep these like this or should i weld the tubes together for better chassis integrity/less flex?
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These are 5 bolt. I thought they all came with 4x130. So what would it be? 5x205? i need some links for some street wheels. like 15" and above. cant find any info on the "custom wheels" sub-forum. worth it to go disc on the rear? i have dual cutters.
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Ditch the dual shock set-up and go single adjustable coilover? benefits of each? super stiff ride. i need some poly bushings.
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really dumb question but these look like axles...are they? i see the grease fittings. why are they here when they dont spin?
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shifter feels like im throwing a hotdog down a hallway when i shift. they make any good shift kits for this with good solid bushings and rods?
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heavy doo-doo steering rack. this thing is uber tough to steer. ive driven a geo metro with slicks and thought that was hard. holy hell. i might snap my radius if i drive this on a rough trail. any good steering set-ups for both the road and light trails?
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this is the shifter rod. any aftermarket ones with benefits?
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booty
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do i really need this thick of tie rods?
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easiest way to wire the tails for brakes, 4 ways, turn signals and reverse?
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they make any poly bushings for these? any after market a-arms?
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what seats do you prefer? any links to some good pricing?
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HERC
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2014 7:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry, I was lost after this statement....

"This 1/8" aluminum shit has to be super heavy Cool
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I Ride Sand
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2014 8:42 am    Post subject: Re: New project Reply with quote

jakekrupa wrote:
I want to make it street legal but still have the ability to go light off-road when i'd like. Deff trying to keep this thing on a diet.


really, i would sell that one and buy one that hasn't been built up so much for serious offroading. get one that is built more for dunes and start there. it will save you many hours and a ton of money.... if you want light, dont buy a tank.
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jakekrupa
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2014 9:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Obviously i know aluminum is light, but compared to cheese-grater it would be much more heavy correct?

I live in western PA. No dunes up here just trails and fields. Basically, the ability to make it somewhat street-able but more offroad oriented. As in, switch to street wheels and drive on the road and switch to the mudders and go on trails. Which i need new offroad tires anyways....
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flashho
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2014 9:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would be happy to answer some of your questions, if you could make it easier. Suggest numbering and make a list of your questions.
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tsj5677
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2014 9:53 am    Post subject: Re: New project Reply with quote

jakekrupa wrote:


As it sits. the pink just melts your heart doesnt it?

-Yes
jakekrupa wrote:

This 1/8" aluminum shit has to be super heavy, should i get rid of it and scrap it and put in cheese grater bottom or just keep it? Deff trying to keep this thing on a diet.

-Probably wouldn't worry too much about the floor at this point
jakekrupa wrote:

Should i keep this bumpstops or throw them away if i go lower?

-It really depends on how low you wanna go in the rear and how hard you're going to be on it offroad.
jakekrupa wrote:

Aftermarket exhaust? Dude said it was stock but it says EMPI...

-Yes aftermarket but once again I would make sure the engine runs good, maybe clean up the rust with a wire brush wheel, throw some high temp paint on it, and not worry about it.
jakekrupa wrote:

Its so cute isnt it? So there are no bolts or studs for the front wheels. If i wanted to put street wheels on it how would i go about this? also, a front disc conversion would be cool. how would i go about that? corvair setup?

-Those are spindle mount wheels. The only way to add front brakes is with new wheels and either a discs or drums. I think you said something about wanting to get new wheels for street and keep this set for offroad. That's gonna make switching them a pita. I recommend a good on/offroad combo like BFG AT/KO but you're gonna need new front wheels to add brakes.
jakekrupa wrote:

Can i keep these like this or should i weld the tubes together for better chassis integrity/less flex?

Removable rear cage for when it is time to remove engine. Many buggies just have a lower removeable cage.

jakekrupa wrote:

These are 5 bolt. I thought they all came with 4x130. So what would it be? 5x205? i need some links for some street wheels. like 15" and above. cant find any info on the "custom wheels" sub-forum. worth it to go disc on the rear? i have dual cutters.

-Many VW have 5x205 wheels also known as "wide 5". You can also get wheel adapters to change patterns. Brake options are very debatable. A rail, unlike a typical car, needs more brake bias towards the rear since that is where most of the weight is. Fronts can easily lock up in sand or soft dirt with little weight on front. A common setup is either just rear disc brakes and no front or rear disc and front drum. Or depending how deep your pockets are I would go 4 piston rear disc and 2 piston front disc with a proportioning valve to dial in correct bias. If you want it street legal you may have to have front brakes to pass inspection.
jakekrupa wrote:



really dumb question but these look like axles...are they? i see the grease fittings. why are they here when they dont spin?

-Front beam suspension. Leaf packs in both top and bottom that twist under load. In the middle is the center grub screw that fits securely into a dimple in the leaf pack and along with the crimp, hold it in the middle and allow the ends to rotate independently from each other. The centers are commonly cut out with adjusters welded in place to allow tuning of suspension height. Does have grease in beams and needle bearings at ends where trailing arms go into beams.
jakekrupa wrote:

shifter feels like im throwing a hotdog down a hallway when i shift. they make any good shift kits for this with good solid bushings and rods?

-Yes aftermarket shifters available to tighten up sloppiness. But making sure all bushings are tight and assuming ball and socket not worn too much, stock vw shifters work trouble free for many years.
jakekrupa wrote:

heavy doo-doo steering rack. this thing is uber tough to steer. ive driven a geo metro with slicks and thought that was hard. holy hell. i might snap my radius if i drive this on a rough trail. any good steering set-ups for both the road and light trails?

-Making sure everything is lubed properly and not binding is the first place to start with. You already have a center load rack and pinion which is ideal and superior to stock vw steering box.


Hopefully some of my answers can get you started. I would just pick one thing at a time to concentrate on and spend many hours on this forum looking at other projects and read all the stickys. Lot of very knowledgeable people here. I see you're in PA. I would start by researching what is needed in your state to make it street legal. If I'm not mistaken, your state is VERY restrictive. You may need windshield with wipers, fenders,possibly engine cover and body panels, all lights, front and rear bumpers, horn, emergency brakes. But do your research before you tear into it too deep. Might not be worth the hassle to make street legal.
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Last edited by tsj5677 on Fri Jul 18, 2014 2:09 pm; edited 9 times in total
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flashho
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2014 10:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good job tsa, guess I was being lazy Smile
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2014 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

flashho wrote:
Good job tsa, guess I was being lazy Smile


Haha I didn't answer all of them. Was kinda time consuming copying and pasting all the quotes. It's slow at work today.
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KrAzY-BaJa
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 12:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tsj5677 wrote:
flashho wrote:
Good job tsa, guess I was being lazy Smile


Haha I didn't answer all of them. Was kinda time consuming copying and pasting all the quotes. It's slow at work today.

just quote the question (post) then answer one and delete the question/picture link and move to the next delete ect Laughing Wink
that way you can read everything as you go

as for all the questions, a few hours browsing builds will help alot for most of these and search Smile
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Axitech
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 4:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're in Pa and you want to be street-legal. You have no choice on the floor, it MUST be solid with "no holes where carbon monoxide may enter passenger compartment". Yes, that is what the law says. Yes, it was written with front engine cars that had exhausts run under the floors and closed passenger compartments in mind. No, they do not care that this is rear engine and no exhaust under the car.

When you submit your paperwork, tell 'em , "Bob says HOWDY a-holes !!!"

Here's a link to the laws:

http://www.dmv.state.pa.us/pdotforms/pub_45/SubchapterK.pdf

A tip for you, go and read the US Constitution, the PA Constitution, learn to spell words and phrases like tyranny, out-of-control, minions, slackers, and learn to wage a vicious email war and all-out assault on the state government. Remind them all that it is an election year. Speaking of elections, get it done before the election in November, after that date, they won't give you the time of day for another two years. AT LEAST two years!

Learn what "official oppression" is and be prepared to have them charged with it. Be willing to follow through, don't make threats to do something like press charges and then not do it. Find out who your elected Representative and State Senator are, and get to know them before starting. Tell them about the difficulties encountered by Bob (me) and how much damage
I was willing to do to get my rail LEGALLY through the system.

Do not try to take shortcuts or find an inspection garage/mechanic who will 'look the other way'. The minute you do that, they will pounce all over you and your FORMER buddy the garage owner and all the mechanics that work for him.

If you need guidance through that minefield, let me know. I'll be happy to help you write out respectful yet fear-inducing emails. Always email! It gives you a 'proof of communication' that can be used against them.

Get the vehicle 110% ready before even asking PennDOT anything. Do not let them see you coming!!

I know, it sounds discouraging, right? Well, here's proof that IT CAN BE DONE!!
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dustymojave
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 7:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I started this a while ago and then got diverted. I come back to find all of my prior work has been discarded and now I'm peeved.

But I felt tsj was going good there.

jakekrupa wrote:
I got this thing today. Dude built it for his wife and she lost interest so i got it for a steal (hence all the sexy pink accents n shit). It has a built 1641, i'll get all the specs and whats done to it sometime next week. Has IRS. 3rib. Dual shock setup. Heavy duty steering with 1" tie rods. Feels like im driving a tank its super stiff. But i have alot of questions regarding this thing. I want to make it street legal but still have the ability to go light off-road when i'd like. With that being said, allow me to flood you with questions Very Happy

Jake, I note from your questions that you are new to offroad VWs, and probably VW Bugs in general. So I say Welcome to our addiction. Now repeat after me ..."Hi. I'm Jake and I'm a VW Offroad Addict." Cool While you indicate that you think some of your questions are dumb, the stupid question is the one you don't ask because you thought it too dumb to ask.

So let's set out on your education.

jakekrupa wrote:
As it sits. the pink just melts your heart doesnt it?
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It's your buggy Jake, you get to do with it as you please. Whatever blows up your skirt or floats your boat. You could sand or sandblast the existing paint to re-paint or powder coat to the color you prefer.

jakekrupa wrote:
This 1/8" aluminum shit has to be super heavy, should i get rid of it and scrap it and put in cheese grater bottom or just keep it? Deff trying to keep this thing on a diet.
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Typical buggy floor material is 1/16" aluminum. Best if it's 6061 T6 or diamond plate. PLENTY strong. But there are those, especially in the east who prefer the floor to be made of stouter stuff. Either way, it's OK for now. Don't stress over it until other issues of higher priority are dealt with.

jakekrupa wrote:
Should i keep this bumpstops or throw them away if i go lower?
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You say you want to drive it on the street and use it offroad. Your buggy is already built as an offroad buggy. You COULD lower it and otherwise modify it to make a street only buggy, at more expense than buying one built for that purpose. I recommend keeping the rugged offroad look to it and not lowering it. All terrain tires would allow using it for both. Those are stock VW Bus stops that go with the rear suspension. If offroad use leads you to want to reduce the Boing! effect from hitting those rubber ball type stops, they COULD be replaced with flat shape Prothane brand urethane stops available from most any VW offroad supplier.

jakekrupa wrote:
Aftermarket exhaust? Dude said it was stock but it says EMPI...
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It is an offroad exhaust made for use on a Buggy or Baja Bug. It's appropriate for the car. It is NOT "stock". That he said it was indicates the seller did not know much about the subject. I recommend replacing that collector with a u-bend collector and a muffler. I like a Thrush Turbo muffler, but there are a bunch of mufflers made for that

jakekrupa wrote:
Its so cute isnt it? So there are no bolts or studs for the front wheels. If i wanted to put street wheels on it how would i go about this? also, a front disc conversion would be cool. how would i go about that? corvair setup?
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As said above, those are "spindle mount" wheels. Fine for sand dunes and deep mud. For woods trails and street, you should have front brakes. You remove those wheels and the bearings which are light pressed into them, you remove the dust cap and the nut inside. This leaves a bare VW spindle. Then you need VW wheel bearings and backing plates, shoes and drums for a 1965 or earlier Bug. That is what the whole front "Kingpin" (aka "Linkpin") front suspension assembly is from. Since the car has a strong rear weight bias, the standard VW brake setup will cause the front brakes to lock up. loss of control follows immediately. This is even worse on dirt than on pavement. The car does NOT need strong front brakes. It needs front brakes which are not as strong as the rears. This can be achieved by putting 1968 and later REAR wheel cylinders on the fronts. They bolt right on and are a perfect fit. But since they are 17mm cylinders instead of the 22mm cylinders normal for the fronts, they produce less braking effect. There are disc brake conversion kits for these spindles, but they are intended for street use and have weak hubs easy to break offroad and are difficult to adjust the brake bias with. I recommend the early drums. You can replace the wheel lug bolts with pressed-in studs and matching nuts from BugPack. You need to drill the holes out to 37/64 and press the studs in.

jakekrupa wrote:
Can i keep these like this or should i weld the tubes together for better chassis integrity/less flex?
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Your frame is what we call a "Short Back". I'm not certain who built it, maybe made by Berrien/Acme. The Short Back is identified by the back end of the welded frame ending at a crossmember above the transaxle bellhousing. The bumper cage is custom add-on to this car. It's not bad and being a bolt-on, it will make it easy to service the engine and trans. the way it is made to bolt on is not pretty, but it will work.

jakekrupa wrote:
These are 5 bolt. I thought they all came with 4x130. So what would it be? 5x205? i need some links for some street wheels. like 15" and above. cant find any info on the "custom wheels" sub-forum. worth it to go disc on the rear? i have dual cutters.
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4x130 is 1968 and later Bug lug pattern. 1967 and earlier Bugs and Buses had 5x205 lug pattern. This is the lug pattern which will be on the 65 and earlier front drums. It is by far preferred by offroaders. As said by tsj, there are 5 lug to 4 lug adapters, but I recommend you keep this. The rear suspension, trans and brakes are from a 1969 to 70 VW bus. 71 and later buses use 5x112mm lug pattern. Later buses (Vanagons) may have had disc brakes with 5x112 pattern. This is close to 5x4.5", but not quite the same and I don't recommend trying to put 5x4.5 wheels on 5x112 hubs. disc brakes may not work too well with the steering brakes due to a master cylinder mismatch to the calipers. I recommend you stick with the drums.

For woods use, I recommend 15 x 6 or 8 rear wheels with 31 x 10.50 tires BFG would be good as suggested by tsj. For the front, 15x4 or 15x5 with 205 or 215- 15 all terrain tires. Mud terrains will throw lots of mud at your face.

jakekrupa wrote:
Ditch the dual shock set-up and go single adjustable coilover? benefits of each? super stiff ride. i need some poly bushings.
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The black shocks may be too short for the suspension. You may want to modify the mounts to put on a matched pair of shocks on each side.Don't weld on the top mounts until you remove the gas tank from the welding area.

Coilovers (and please don't confuse the cheapo EMPI coilovers as the real things. They won't support the car without the torsions a and are crappy shocks.) are expensive. Installing them would require removing the torsion bars and spring plates. The spring plates would need to be replaced with some custom fabricated bars. there are pieces made for VW Bug suspension, but not for Bus.

The stiff ride is typical of offroad vehicles. It helps with street cornering too. It gets softer as the wheel travel gets longer and as you drive faster. But if you expect a cushy ride from your car, trade it for a Buick.

jakekrupa wrote:
really dumb question but these look like axles...are they? i see the grease fittings. why are they here when they dont spin?
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That is what we call the "Front Beam". The whole assembly unbolts from a VW Bug, in this case 1965 or earlier. Those tubes are essentially frame cross members which unbolt from the frame. But they carry the springs (torsion bars) inside. The stacks of leaves tsj mentioned earlier are stack of flat spring steel. they form a stack that viewed from the end looks square. This square end fits into the trailing arms and are held with a large set screw. There is another large set screw in the middle of the beam cross tube to hold the center of the torsion bar in a square hole inside which prevents the center of the bar from turning. Twisting the torsion bar by rotating the arm causes the spring to resist. That's how the suspension works. The grease fittings are to lube the rotating part of the trailing arm. There is a needle bearing inside the end of the tube and several inches in there is a bushing.

jakekrupa wrote:
shifter feels like im throwing a hotdog down a hallway when i shift. they make any good shift kits for this with good solid bushings and rods?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The shifter you have is stock VW Bug. I note the nylon bushing is missing from the loop to support the shift rod under the back of the shifter housing. That would help a lot. There is an aftermarket quick shift kit available from BugPack or EMPI which will improve the length of throw at the knob.

jakekrupa wrote:
heavy doo-doo steering rack. this thing is uber tough to steer. ive driven a geo metro with slicks and thought that was hard. holy hell. i might snap my radius if i drive this on a rough trail. any good steering set-ups for both the road and light trails?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This is a Heavy Duty offroad steering rack. It looks a like a Latest Rage brand. These are reputed to have a 1:1 ratio which is good for use with power steering, but is not real good for without power assist. There are steering shaft ratio boxes to install in the column which will reduce the ratio to 2:1. The mount is pretty mickey mouse and should be replaced with a proper mount available from offroad VW suppliers for about $12. But you may also have trouble from the kingpins being too tight if they have new bushings or from rust if they lack grease. One way to improve the steering rack ratio would be to install a rack for a Chevy Corsica or Beretta. There are no mounts for it so you would have to fabricate your own so the tie rod connections are in about the same place. The Chevy rack is not as strong as the one you have though.

jakekrupa wrote:
this is the shifter rod. any aftermarket ones with benefits?
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That is a custom fabricated shift rod made for this car. It is fine. The rear joint is stock VW Bug. If the rubber pieces in the sides are sloppy, they can be replaced with urethane in red or black. The shift rod has an adjuster in the middle.


jakekrupa wrote:
booty
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Needs a rear skid plate. The material the floor pan is made of is perfect. 1/8" 6061 t6 or diamond plate.

jakekrupa wrote:
do i really need this thick of tie rods?
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Typical offroad buggy tie rods are 1" OD x .250 wall 6061 T6 aluminum or 4130 steel. The inner tie rod ends are probably International pickup. Common for the outer ends are Ford Pickup ends. You have stock Bug inner ends with fitting for steering damper. These ends are much weaker than the inners. But the bigger Ford or International ends require reaming the steering arms on the spindles to fit. That's probably why it was built with VW ends.

jakekrupa wrote:
easiest way to wire the tails for brakes, 4 ways, turn signals and reverse?
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1st off those tail lights need to be aimed behind the car. The clouds don't give a damn whether your lights are on or if you are pressing on the brake.

You can get a truck universal turn indicator unit which will clamp on the steering column if you had a tube. That will provide switching for all of the functions except backup, the trans has a backup switch in the front or forward side. But check in the fiberglass buggy section for mounting the switch and wiring. I use an ON-OFF-ON toggle switch mounted left to right for turn switch in my Baja Bug. Maybe DaleM can refer you to a wiring diagram.

jakekrupa wrote:
they make any poly bushings for these? any after market a-arms?
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NOPE!!! No poly bushings for these. These have bronze bushings inside. Heavier duty offroad bushings and pins are available from Sway -A-Way in California. It looks like they haven't been greased since the last ice age. Might be part of your hard to steer issue.

Aftermarket a-arms get to be a whole 'nother ball o' wax. Your frame is built for beam. Converting to a-Arm may require rebuilding the entire front of the frame. There have been some a-arm kits which bolt to a frame built for beam. Ain't gonna be cheap. Expect to pay as much as the cost of the whole car. Then you need a different steering rack and different tie rods too.

That beam front end is capable of 10" of wheel travel with the stock trailing arms with the right shocks and upper mounts. 4" longer arms will allow up to 15" of travel again with the right shocks and upper mounts. Your tie rod clearance or the lack of may limit that. In desert offroad racing, Class 12 cars with a VW type beam and an 1835 or 1776 VW engine often beat the Class 10 cars with a-arms and an engine with 2x the power in otherwise similar chassis. I see no need to replace the beam with a-arms.

jakekrupa wrote:
what seats do you prefer? any links to some good pricing?


Poly seats will hold up if the car is parked outdoors. Suspension seats will be far better for your back. Race Trim seats are nice suspension seats, but I hear they start coming apart quickly. Shop around.
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Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
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Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.
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jakekrupa
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 8:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Damn how do you multi-qoute on this forum? Life would be so much easier but instead im gunna type this on a Notepad doc and then copy and paste so bare with me!

TSJ: Thank you for the effort to reply back to all my pics man! Saw your thread as an inspiration and was gunna PM you. I need to know how you managed to fit those street wheels on your rail, the bolt pattern youre running, the type of wheels, tires, and size of both. just for curiosity.

Any links to builds you recommend?

Krazy-Baja: I will troll the builds tmrw when i get off work Very Happy

Axiitech (Bob): I literally LOL'd when i read youre post. If i could give you a massive virtual high five and a berr mug clash right now i totally would. Ted Nugent for President and Fuck this state. I cant wait to go back to Nevada. Thank you for all the info. I do have a question though and i guess this will greatly determine if i want to build this for offroad use and no street use or both - Can i title the buggy as a farm vehicle to LEGALLY drive it on the street in order to get to trails?

Dustymojave: WOW man...TONS of info youre a fucking sir!! Thank you for the welcome, glad to be here and waste more money that i dont have on something that i dont (but do) need Smile always wanted one since i lived out Vegas and since i've been racing NASA i took a season off and started this VW buggy thing. brother has always been into VW's so i sorta got hooked at a young age and grew up with them. although, i race a mustang so im sort of contradicting myself with that statement. either way, much appreicated with the comments and info. im gunna shoot you back some questions to your opinions/info starting from first pic to last.

1. I will paint this thing gloss black. epoxy paint and everything
2. If i decide to go offroad-only i may scrape this plate and go 1/16 steel mesh. not sure yet, i just dont like weight (damn you, NASA)
3. Prob gunna pick up some urethane stops. I love urethane
4. It does have a u-bend but no muffler. best muffler set-up for high compression N/A air cooled?
5. These wheels leak air, im scraping them. so should i go drum setup in front or JUST disc in the rear? trying to keep it on a decently tight budget. and, how would i go about converting the spindle mount to a 5 bolt set up?
6. i will keep the bolted frame, will make it alot easier to take the engine out and put in a 5.0 3v Smile
7. so i should stick with the drums on the rear over disc on the rear? i really hate these cutter brakes and just want to be able to brake with the brake pedal with my foot and not my hands...i got a steering wheel to handle and gears to row through!
8. So coilovers are a no-go. i dont have deep pockets. should i ditch the black shocks entirely and replace the pink ones with some really good ones?
9. should i grease these front beams?
10. ill get that shiftkit, the shifter feels EXTREMELY sloppy. why is reverse such a bitch? also, should i let the trans warm up before using? and i think this is the 5.xx R&P...68-71 3rib
11. im gunna wd-40 the whole rack after i strip the paint off of it. i think theres paint in between the connecting rods and u-joints.
12. deff grabbing some poly bushings for the trans
13. link to some skid plates? or do i need custom?
14. so are there any aftermarket tie rods/ends i should run or are these okay?
15. yeah deff need to mount these somewhere else. i think im gunna run toggle switches for everything in this thing honestly. give it that racecar feel eh?
16. ill grease these suckers. so thats a big NO on A-arms.do they make aftermarket trailing arms? recommended front shocks?
17. im trolling craigslist for some used WRX/STi/Evo seats like recaros or corbeaus. deff want a comfortable ride. any reccomended suspension seats?
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dustymojave
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 12:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jakekrupa wrote:
Damn how do you multi-qoute on this forum? Life would be so much easier but instead im gunna type this on a Notepad doc and then copy and paste so bare with me!

I just hit the quote button and in the message writing window, copy the "(quote="jakekrupa")" (in this case, I'm quoting you) from the start of the message, and paste it in front of each question. Then go to the end of the quote and you find "[slashquote]" but with a "/" where I put the word. Copy that and put it at the end of each question. Works for most forums that use BBCode like this. If you want to quote someone else from the thread in the same message, paste the original quote and replace the name with the name of the person you want to add another quote from. Like:
(quote="jakekrupa")
im gunna type this on a Notepad(/quote)
(quote="axitech")
tell 'em , "Bob says HOWDY a-holes !!!" (/quote)
Note that I have replaced the square brackets with parentheses so you can read what I typed and the code doesn't actually work.

jakekrupa wrote:

TSJ: Thank you for the effort to reply back to all my pics man! Saw your thread as an inspiration and was gunna PM you. I need to know how you managed to fit those street wheels on your rail, the bolt pattern youre running, the type of wheels, tires, and size of both. just for curiosity.

Any links to builds you recommend?


I know you asked this of tsj, but those look to be 15 x 8 wheels on his car lowered.

jakekrupa wrote:

Axiitech (Bob): I literally LOL'd when i read youre post. If i could give you a massive virtual high five and a berr mug clash right now i totally would. Ted Nugent for President and Fuck this state. I cant wait to go back to Nevada. Thank you for all the info. I do have a question though and i guess this will greatly determine if i want to build this for offroad use and no street use or both - Can i title the buggy as a farm vehicle to LEGALLY drive it on the street in order to get to trails?


Read his thread on getting his buggy street registered and you will well understand what he says. I agree with Bob.

But Bob, you and your pretty daughter better learn to make a habit of putting on your seat belts BEFORE you take off down the street. (Youtube video) 1/3 of traffic collisions happen within 1 mile of home.

jakekrupa wrote:
Dustymojave: WOW man...TONS of info youre a fucking sir!! Thank you for the welcome, glad to be here and waste more money that i dont have on something that i dont (but do) need Smile always wanted one since i lived out Vegas and since i've been racing NASA i took a season off and started this VW buggy thing. brother has always been into VW's so i sorta got hooked at a young age and grew up with them. although, i race a mustang so im sort of contradicting myself with that statement. either way, much appreicated with the comments and info. im gunna shoot you back some questions to your opinions/info starting from first pic to last.


You're welcome. You don't have the money either, Shocked welcome to that group too!!!! Very Happy As I was saying earlier on tsj's thread on lowering his buggy...I grew up around road racing (SCCA Cal Club). I took my 1st offroad buggy ride in the desert around Willow Springs Raceway during a lunch break in 1966. Mustang pic?
Here's one I recently worked on restoring
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


jakekrupa wrote:
1. I will paint this thing gloss black. epoxy paint and everything

Good choice. Make sure you finish all modification work BEFORE you paint I HATE grinding off new epoxy to weld.

jakekrupa wrote:
2. If i decide to go offroad-only i may scrape this plate and go 1/16 steel mesh. not sure yet, i just dont like weight (damn you, NASA)

As I said, that plate will work fine for skidplates. But while expanded steel is good for sand dunes and will let the sand fall out, it lets LOTS of water and mud in. You're in PA, Not Vegas. Check Axitech's videos of stream crossings.
jakekrupa wrote:
3. Prob gunna pick up some urethane stops. I love urethane

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


jakekrupa wrote:
4. It does have a u-bend but no muffler. best muffler set-up for high compression N/A air cooled?

As I said before, I like a 2" Thrush Turbo. For performance, sound, cost and lightweight. It weighs a fraction of what a dynomax does and costs less than $30. Most mufflers need a support off the header which should be fabricated and nothing is readily available. Most of the ones that VW shops sell for them that look like a motorcycle muffler need support too.

jakekrupa wrote:
5. These wheels leak air, im scraping them. so should i go drum setup in front or JUST disc in the rear? trying to keep it on a decently tight budget. and, how would i go about converting the spindle mount to a 5 bolt set up?

Drum in front as I said in my previous post gets the job done well and is inexpensive and more rugged than discs short of mega $$$. That's why I recommend them. I explained what you need above. 65 and earlier brake drums are already 5x205. Put in '68+ 17mm rear wheel cylinders for bias.

jakekrupa wrote:
6. i will keep the bolted frame, will make it alot easier to take the engine out and put in a 5.0 3v Smile

You had better be prepared to spend some cubic $$$$ for a gearbox to handle that 5.0. Like well past $10K for just the trans.

jakekrupa wrote:
7. so i should stick with the drums on the rear over disc on the rear? i really hate these cutter brakes and just want to be able to brake with the brake pedal with my foot and not my hands...i got a steering wheel to handle and gears to row through!

Practice makes perfect my son. Deleting the steering brakes is fine or simply NOT using them. It SHOULD have a brake pedal, doesn't it?

Those Type 2 rear drums are GOOD brakes for the car. Your rear hubs are VW bus. There really aren't aftermarket disc kits for that hub. But you MAY find some for later buses.

jakekrupa wrote:
8. So coilovers are a no-go. i dont have deep pockets. should i ditch the black shocks entirely and replace the pink ones with some really good ones?

Ummm...You're contradicting yourself there. The pink shocks will work OK for now. Hell, the black ones may be fine too. Are you racing the thing? You could upgrade when you have the cash to buy Fox or King or...at least F-O-A for the better part of $1k. Then you'll need new mounts for them.

jakekrupa wrote:
9. should i grease these front beams?

Uhh, should you put gas in the tank?

jakekrupa wrote:
10. ill get that shiftkit, the shifter feels EXTREMELY sloppy. why is reverse such a bitch? also, should i let the trans warm up before using? and i think this is the 5.xx R&P...68-71 3rib

Shifter shaft bushing at the back of the shifter housing 1st!!!!

jakekrupa wrote:
11. im gunna wd-40 the whole rack after i strip the paint off of it. i think theres paint in between the connecting rods and u-joints.

Should have grease inside the rack. You might take off the shaft from the rack and check how EZ it turns.

jakekrupa wrote:
12. deff grabbing some poly bushings for the trans

Question For what part of the trans?

jakekrupa wrote:
13. link to some skid plates? or do i need custom?

There are 2 types of off the shelf aftermarket skidplates. But they won't fit. Fab yours from aluminum plate to fit the car. The underside of the engine/trans area is not like most buggies which have the VW Bug yokes. Yours does NOT. Mount the skidplate to the lower engine cage/bumper tubes. Don't make it so it can snag on the front edge. 5/16 mounting bolts minimum. Nylocks. Bolt heads down.

jakekrupa wrote:
14. so are there any aftermarket tie rods/ends i should run or are these okay?

They will do for a start. When they fail, you can buy ready-made tie rods of 1" 4130 or 6061 T6. You can then use the inboard ends already there. The reamer for Ford tie rod ends costs about $100. You should gusset the steering arms on the spindles at the same time. While you're at that, you may as well gusset the spindle kingpin carriers too. Then the weak link will be the spindle shank itself, which has a hole for the speedo cable. That can be filled to reinforce it. Check back here for instructions.

jakekrupa wrote:
15. yeah deff need to mount these somewhere else. i think im gunna run toggle switches for everything in this thing honestly. give it that racecar feel eh?

Normal for dune buggies to use toggles.

jakekrupa wrote:
16. ill grease these suckers. so thats a big NO on A-arms.do they make aftermarket trailing arms? recommended front shocks?

Yes there are aftermarket trailing arms. In stock size or 2-1/2" longer or 4" longer. There are aftermarket spindles called "Combo Links" too. They all cost a bunch. Cool your jets there Roger Ramjet. Learn with what you have. Let's not go straight to the GTP car, how about getting your feet wet in a Formula Ford 1st? You say you're on a minimal budget and I'm trying to work with that idea in mind, but you keep going to jumping in wallet 1st. Speed costs money. How fast can you afford to go?

jakekrupa wrote:
17. im trolling craigslist for some used WRX/STi/Evo seats like recaros or corbeaus. deff want a comfortable ride. any reccomended suspension seats?


Actually check the poll on seats. AZ-Bug suggests Chevy Cavalier/Pontiac Sunfire seats for use in a Baja Bug. You might check out Corbeau Baja SS. My friend's old 92 Camaro RS had Recaros. Or Miata, RX7/8 etc. But remember that you don't need the reclining feature. And you don't want to blow out the bottom of the seat.
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Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.
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jakekrupa
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 3:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just hit the quote button and in the message writing window, copy the "(quote="jakekrupa")" (in this case, I'm quoting you) from the start of the message, and paste it in front of each question. Then go to the end of the quote and you find "[slashquote]" but with a "/" where I put the word. Copy that and put it at the end of each question. Works for most forums that use BBCode like this. If you want to quote someone else from the thread in the same message, paste the original quote and replace the name with the name of the person you want to add another quote from. Like:
(quote="jakekrupa")
im gunna type this on a Notepad(/quote)
(quote="axitech")
tell 'em , "Bob says HOWDY a-holes !!!" (/quote)
Note that I have replaced the square brackets with parentheses so you can read what I typed and the code doesn't actually work.

Awesome, thanks!


You're welcome. You don't have the money either, Shocked welcome to that group too!!!! Very Happy As I was saying earlier on tsj's thread on lowering his buggy...I grew up around road racing (SCCA Cal Club). I took my 1st offroad buggy ride in the desert around Willow Springs Raceway during a lunch break in 1966. Mustang pic?
Here's one I recently worked on restoring
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Cool! SCCA always comes to my work and i work the timing on the auto-x sessions alot if im not working the racetrack or karting. that pony looks pretty dope, whats all done to it?

I do Club Loose drifting, NASA, and take it to the strip when I feel like getting spanked by Evo's. 310WHP 2V, all N/A, 4.10's, weight reduction, built suspension on a SRA. This pic is before i put a 4-piston kit on it and got some Ventus RS-3 V2's (which are fucking awesome by the way). These modulars can take hell. I beat the shit out of this thing. and I get to drive it on a track everyday for free (my work, Pitt Intl. Raceway)

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Good choice. Make sure you finish all modification work BEFORE you paint I HATE grinding off new epoxy to weld.

Absolutley


As I said, that plate will work fine for skidplates. But while expanded steel is good for sand dunes and will let the sand fall out, it lets LOTS of water and mud in. You're in PA, Not Vegas. Check Axitech's videos of stream crossings.

Got it


As I said before, I like a 2" Thrush Turbo. For performance, sound, cost and lightweight. It weighs a fraction of what a dynomax does and costs less than $30. Most mufflers need a support off the header which should be fabricated and nothing is readily available. Most of the ones that VW shops sell for them that look like a motorcycle muffler need support too.

Cool, ill check them out!

Drum in front as I said in my previous post gets the job done well and is inexpensive and more rugged than discs short of mega $$$. That's why I recommend them. I explained what you need above. 65 and earlier brake drums are already 5x205. Put in '68+ 17mm rear wheel cylinders for bias.

Got it


You had better be prepared to spend some cubic $$$$ for a gearbox to handle that 5.0. Like well past $10K for just the trans.

I was being sarcastic...buttttttt tell me how awesome thatd be?


Practice makes perfect my son. Deleting the steering brakes is fine or simply NOT using them. It SHOULD have a brake pedal, doesn't it?

Those Type 2 rear drums are GOOD brakes for the car. Your rear hubs are VW bus. There really aren't aftermarket disc kits for that hub. But you MAY find some for later buses.

It does have a pedal but it doesnt work at all? :/ What fluid does it take just DOT3 and 4? I got some Wilwood 660 RBF laying around


Ummm...You're contradicting yourself there. The pink shocks will work OK for now. Hell, the black ones may be fine too. Are you racing the thing? You could upgrade when you have the cash to buy Fox or King or...at least F-O-A for the better part of $1k. Then you'll need new mounts for them.

Wow...$1k for shocks thats pretty deep. Guess ill run these into the ground. How much softer would suspension travel be with the blacks removed?

Uhh, should you put gas in the tank?

Only if its 93RON! specific grease?



Shifter shaft bushing at the back of the shifter housing 1st!!!!

thats the urethane bushing i reffered to for the trani in a later post

Should have grease inside the rack. You might take off the shaft from the rack and check how EZ it turns.

First thing i have to fix is the steering, you dont understand how tight it is to steer. literally a work out and a half

Question For what part of the trans?

refer to 3 posts before this


There are 2 types of off the shelf aftermarket skidplates. But they won't fit. Fab yours from aluminum plate to fit the car. The underside of the engine/trans area is not like most buggies which have the VW Bug yokes. Yours does NOT. Mount the skidplate to the lower engine cage/bumper tubes. Don't make it so it can snag on the front edge. 5/16 mounting bolts minimum. Nylocks. Bolt heads down.

Awesome

They will do for a start. When they fail, you can buy ready-made tie rods of 1" 4130 or 6061 T6. You can then use the inboard ends already there. The reamer for Ford tie rod ends costs about $100. You should gusset the steering arms on the spindles at the same time. While you're at that, you may as well gusset the spindle kingpin carriers too. Then the weak link will be the spindle shank itself, which has a hole for the speedo cable. That can be filled to reinforce it. Check back here for instructions.

Sick, throw me some instructions when possible no hurry


Normal for dune buggies to use toggles.

My mustang doesnt have any except one for the oil cooler. love toggle switches

Yes there are aftermarket trailing arms. In stock size or 2-1/2" longer or 4" longer. There are aftermarket spindles called "Combo Links" too. They all cost a bunch. Cool your jets there Roger Ramjet. Learn with what you have. Let's not go straight to the GTP car, how about getting your feet wet in a Formula Ford 1st? You say you're on a minimal budget and I'm trying to work with that idea in mind, but you keep going to jumping in wallet 1st. Speed costs money. How fast can you afford to go?

Ignorantly assumed they would be somewhat cheap, it seems i am wrong. ill look into the price and go from there. any sites that carry trusted brands of them?


Actually check the poll on seats. AZ-Bug suggests Chevy Cavalier/Pontiac Sunfire seats for use in a Baja Bug. You might check out Corbeau Baja SS. My friend's old 92 Camaro RS had Recaros. Or Miata, RX7/8 etc. But remember that you don't need the reclining feature. And you don't want to blow out the bottom of the seat.[/quote][img][/img]

Had an RX-8 and LOVED the seats. found a pair of Recaros from a SpecMiata so i might grab those and throw waterproof covers on them.
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tsj5677
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 9:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jakekrupa wrote:


TSJ: Thank you for the effort to reply back to all my pics man! Saw your thread as an inspiration and was gunna PM you. I need to know how you managed to fit those street wheels on your rail, the bolt pattern youre running, the type of wheels, tires, and size of both. just for curiosity.



My wheels are these from Pacific Customs. http://www.pacificcustoms.com/ccw5l7bm.html
15x7 front and rear 5x205 bolt pattern

The tires are 205/50R15 Nitto Neo Gen

When I first lowered my rail I had too much negative camber in the rear. I assumed I would be rotating my tires a bunch to help with tire wear so I wanted the exact same front and rear. Then someone told me the trick about swapping rear trailing arms side to side to correct camber issue on lowered VW irs suspension. Worked great so I shouldn't have to rotate as often as I thought I would.
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Last edited by tsj5677 on Mon Jul 21, 2014 11:08 pm; edited 1 time in total
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jakekrupa
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 8:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How would i go about putting a 5x205 hub on the fronts since they are spindle mount? Remove everything and it is just the spline correct?

Some updates though:

Changed the plugs. 3 were the same, one was different...what the fuck?
Put in some NGK's runs wayyyy more smooth. Look how rich it was running...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


New tie downs, and terminal connectors. getting some 4G 7ft wire tmrw. drilling through the floor pan and putting some heavy duty nuts on the tie downs
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



got a rearview just in case!
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



got a 4pt harness, still trolling craigslist for some good seats
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


you dont even want to see the old fuel filter...put a new one on
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


these bushings are absolutley shot, any links to polys?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.




deff gunna mount some round 6" lights here, any links to some good ones? pref black on black housings
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


so this is the bushing for the brake...can i get a new one somewhere?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


ghetto ass beer holder, will mount soon lol
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


this oil cooler is fucked. deff getting a new one from Summit or something, any specific capacity? dont want to lose too much oil pressure
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


are these aftermarket? EMPI 7MM. look sorta old...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


im asssuming this is an aftermarket EMPI carb that is a stock replica for offroad use? best carb to run for light offroad? never had a carb before...noob to the game
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


waterproof relay box, deff gunna need another one, only have 1 port left Sad
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


what kind of sandwich plates do they make for this? deff wanna run a big MANN filter, the more oil the better
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


any DIY links on how to clean the fan and shrouds? worth it or nah?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


trans bushing, deff need a poly. any links?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


you know what i really dont like the cutters honestly. can i just delete them and run the 2 lines coming from the reservoir to a proportioning valve into the 2 lines going to the back drums? or should i bite the bullet and keep the cutters for offroad use?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


if anyone knows what chassis this is, can you link me a u-style crash bar that will fit these 4 holes?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


amazon has some mirrors with the tubular mounts, any ones you guys are running?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Also, changing the trans fluid with Lucas 80-90 and the engine oil with Rotella T6 15-40. any lubrication additives you guys run?

got some aircraft remover, say goodbye to the pink (i really didnt want to break your guys' hearts, sorry)

i need a short windsheild, do i need a custom one or can i get one to fit my chassis?

got a leftover vaccum gauge from the ponycar, anywhere i can run a line from the engine?
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 9:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Doing it right by posting a ton of pictures Very Happy

Older oil cooler, ditch it. My advise to you is this: get a better beer holder.

Some 7mm wires are EMPI, some aren't but that carb suggest the wires are too.

The carb, EMPI has a 50/50 rep with carbs

Clean the shroud, degreaser then shit ton of water

I'll miss the pink paint.

Listen to dusty though, man knows his sh-stuff.
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dustymojave
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 10:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jakekrupa wrote:
Awesome, thanks!

You're welcome again. Cool

dustymojave wrote:
Here's one I recently worked on restoring
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


jakekrupa wrote:
Cool! SCCA always comes to my work and i work the timing on the auto-x sessions alot if im not working the racetrack or karting. that pony looks pretty dope, whats all done to it?


I did Timing for Cal Club working with my parents before they switched to Tech Inspection for the start of the 1963 season. Dad had the 1st closed course electronic timing machine. Worked Tech until 1975, by which time I had already switched to working Tech for Offroad races.

The Mustang is a 1967, 1 of about 25 built by Shelby for SCCA Trans Am and A/Sedan class. From the same group as the 4 that Shelby used to win the 1967 TransAm season Championship. It is essentially a GT350R in a '67 notchback coupe body shell.
- Factory race car, never registered with DMV - ever. Delivered at Shelby's shop brand new ready-to-race
- Galaxie spindles and disc brakes
- Galaxie Wagon (HD bearings) 31 spline 9" rear axle
- specific springs front and rear
- Shelby 4-point roll bar (I cut off a later-added really crappy roll cage to restore it)
- Over-Ride traction bars through the wheel wells mounting to brackets welded on the rear floor above the spring perches with aluminum sheet box covers
- Shelby oil cooler inside front valance
- Top Loader 4-speed trans
- 485hp 289 with high rise dual quad intake & deep sump oil pan
- Shelby headers
- mostly gutted interior
- fiberglass road race seat
- double gas tank made from 2 Mustang gas tank bottoms welded together with the flip-cap fuel filler sticking through the trunk lid (we made a fuel cell inside of this tank)
- dual electric fuel pumps and battery in marine box in trunk
- Koni shocks
- American Torque Thrust wheels 15x8 with Goodyear race tires
- Offset Orange stripe paint scheme applied over Ford Wimbledon white by Shelby crew to compensate for delivering car late

We restored it for the original owner, who had won the 1966 regional B/Production class championship as a Shelby Team driver. Jon Morton drove it at Monterey Historics this past year as the Owner Fred is over 80 years old. I have a 1969 Willow Springs Cal Club race program which lists course lap records. Shows this car as holding the record then, in spite of several top Trans Am teams testing there often.

jakekrupa wrote:

I do Club Loose drifting, NASA, and take it to the strip when I feel like getting spanked by Evo's. 310WHP 2V, all N/A, 4.10's, weight reduction, built suspension on a SRA. This pic is before i put a 4-piston kit on it and got some Ventus RS-3 V2's (which are fucking awesome by the way). These modulars can take hell. I beat the shit out of this thing. and I get to drive it on a track everyday for free (my work, Pitt Intl. Raceway)
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Cool Mustang. I was thinking maybe you had a NASA American Iron racer.

dustymojave wrote:
You had better be prepared to spend some cubic $$$$ for a gearbox to handle that 5.0. Like well past $10K for just the trans.


jakekrupa wrote:
I was being sarcastic...buttttttt tell me how awesome thatd be?


Actually I figured you probably were. And I was answering while chuckling to myself. But not joking about the cost. Check out modern Class 1 offroad race cars. There is one which I have Teched that runs a 7 liter aluminum Ford that pushes about 750hp through a $35K Albins trans and the car weighs somewhere over 4K lbs with about 25-30" of wheel travel.
Yup! They're awesome!

dustymojave wrote:
It SHOULD have a brake pedal, doesn't it?


jakekrupa wrote:
It does have a pedal but it doesnt work at all? :/ What fluid does it take just DOT3 and 4? I got some Wilwood 660 RBF laying around


Obviously SOMETHING is wrong. May need to be bled ahead of the steering brakes. Master Cylinder may be bad. Dual circuit 1968+ master is good and costs about $20 at Autozone. Can use a dual reservoir for a Volvo that fits right on the master. DOT 3 fluid. Don't use the fancy shtuff. They aint Brembo carbon fiber brakes.

On reinforcing the stock left spindle by filling the speedo cable hole:
This is from the 1970 HP Book "Baja-prepping VW Sedans & Dune Buggies" Still a good book with good info, but out of print since the 70s.

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Then from the Jeff Hibbard 1980 book "The Complete Guide For Going Off Road"

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And the version from Jeff's 1981 HP Books "Baja Bugs & Buggies"

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Basically similar methods. The 1970 uses a 3/8" bolt threaded into the outer tip of the spindle shank from the inside. The later versions use a 1/2" bolt turned down to an interference thermo fit in the existing hole. Could probably be done like the latter using a 3/8 socket head cap screw with the hole reamed to a thermo fit.
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.
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dustymojave
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 12:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jakekrupa wrote:
How would i go about putting a 5x205 hub on the fronts since they are spindle mount? Remove everything and it is just the spline correct?

See the spindle reinforcement pic in my last post for what it looks like with the spindle mount wheel removed. Many have taken a stock brake drum, preferably worn out, and had it machined to completely remove the braking surface part of the drum, leaving only the face with the lug holes.. For woods use, I STILL recommend front brakes.

Some updates though:

jakekrupa wrote:
Changed the plugs. 3 were the same, one was different...what the fuck?
Put in some NGK's runs wayyyy more smooth. Look how rich it was running...
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Wasn't a good mechanic I would say. Make sure you get the right plugs for a VW 1600 of about 1971-73 vintage. Don't buy new ones like what the other nimrod had unless one of them happened to be right.

jakekrupa wrote:
New tie downs, and terminal connectors. getting some 4G 7ft wire tmrw. drilling through the floor pan and putting some heavy duty nuts on the tie downs
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Put that battery in a marine battery box with steel hold downs direct to the battery. I've seen people with acid burns from the battery when it's in front and exposed like that.

jakekrupa wrote:
got a rearview just in case!
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amazon has some mirrors with the tubular mounts, any ones you guys are running?
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Rear view mirrors are good. The 'U' hoop ones that hose clamp mount to the roll cage are fine.

jakekrupa wrote:
got a 4pt harness, still trolling craigslist for some good seats
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My experience with those type of belts in play buggies has not been good. The buckles kept coming loose and the belts were difficult to adjust. I use competition 5-point belts. The crotch strap is there to keep the lap belt down on your lap instead of up in your ribs where the shoulder belts want to pull it. Much more of an issue on the rough surface of dirt than on pavement. Make sure the shoulder belts mount to a bar that is near the level of your shoulders.

jakekrupa wrote:
you dont even want to see the old fuel filter...put a new one on
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Smile

jakekrupa wrote:
these bushings are absolutley shot, any links to polys?
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I note that you refer to boots that cover a joint or connection as "bushings". A bushing carried load between pieces and is a close fit, sometimes allows controlled minor flex between pieces. A boot is a cover to keep dirt, water, etc. out, and grease, etc. in.

Check with Prothane for tie rod end boots. You might have to just let these go until they fail and then replace the entire rod end. My previous posts discussed Ford tie rod ends.

jakekrupa wrote:
deff gunna mount some round 6" lights here, any links to some good ones? pref black on black housings
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http://carcraftstore.com/eaglehidlights4and6.aspx

jakekrupa wrote:
so this is the bushing for the brake...can i get a new one somewhere?
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That MAY be showing why your brake pedal dos not work the brakes. You MAY need a new master cylinder. See my last post about that.

jakekrupa wrote:
ghetto ass beer holder, will mount soon lol
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I don't approve of drinking and driving. I've seen a LOT of stupid moves by people who were offroading with "just 1 beer" that has gotten people hurt and/or dead. So I'm not going to advise you how best to hold your beer. DEFINITELY take something to drink!!! But leave the liquor at home.

jakekrupa wrote:
this oil cooler is fucked. deff getting a new one from Summit or something, any specific capacity? dont want to lose too much oil pressure
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Is it effed just because the fins are wrinkled? If so, go to Harbor Freight and get a radiator fin comb. Def need better mounts than zip ties.

jakekrupa wrote:
are these aftermarket? EMPI 7MM. look sorta old...
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New plug wires are EZ. Firing order is 1-4-3-2. 1 is right front, 2 is right rear, 3 is left front. #1 is closest to the crank pulley on the distributor cap. Count clockwise looking down at the top of the cap. Distributor you have is almost certainly a "009". Check the part number stamped on the side of the body and the last 3 digits will confirm that. You need to know that to get replacement points, cap, rotor, condenser for tune-up. I also notice your distributor drive shaft is out of register so your plug wires don't connect in the correct spots. #1 should be at 4:30, it's at 9:00... The wire you're holding SHOULD go to # 1, but appears to go to #3. It will work, but isn't right. The #1 location should have a small notch in the top edge of the distributor body visible when the cap is off.

It's POSSIBLE to fix, but risky and probably not worth the hassle unless it is causing the engine to run poorly.


jakekrupa wrote:
im asssuming this is an aftermarket EMPI carb that is a stock replica for offroad use? best carb to run for light offroad? never had a carb before...noob to the game
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That is an EMPI brand OER for the original stock Solex brand 1600 carb. There are a couple of tricks for improvement for offroad use. External float bowl vent is one of those. Offroad racers in the restricted 1600cc classes are required to use an earlier and smaller model stock carb (30PICT-1) with the external float bowl vent and removal of the choke being all that is allowed to be done. EMPI has an iffy reputation. But those carbs are fine and licensed by the original manufacturer. That 34 PICT-3 carb you have is fine, but there is a tendency to a flat spot in accel when used with a non-vacuum advance distributor like you have. After a while of using the car, if you crave more horsepower and have the $$, you can upgrade to a single Weber 2bbl carb or dual Weber.

BTW...EMPI (European Motor Parts Importer) is a SoCal company founded over 50 years ago in Riverside Cal. The original owners sold out decades ago, but EMPI is still the biggest vendor of parts for VW Bugs. Some of their stuff is like what the dog left in the back yard, some is really quite good. some people will never touch EMPI brand stuff again because of bad experience with some of the back yard stuff. But much of what they sell is not available from others. And often, what IS available from others is no better, or even sometimes worse. Knowledge and experience are the best guides for quality of a particular part.

jakekrupa wrote:
waterproof relay box, deff gunna need another one, only have 1 port left Sad
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Strange place to put it. And what do you need relays for? It's a friggen VW Bug!

jakekrupa wrote:
what kind of sandwich plates do they make for this? deff wanna run a big MANN filter, the more oil the better
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This aint no Chevy V8. It already HAS the equivalent of a sandwich plate. This uses PH8A or equivalent filters. I prefer Wix 51515R racing filter to withstand the high oil pressure on cold startup, since I use a system that takes oil straight out of the face of the oil pump and routes it to the filter, then thru the cooler before returning it to the engine block. Yours takes the oil out of the top of the block(shows in the following fan shroud pic), which only flows about 1/3 of the total oil flow of the engine. This allows use of a low pressure PH8A filter, but does not filter or cool as effectively.

jakekrupa wrote:
any DIY links on how to clean the fan and shrouds? worth it or nah?
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Looks pretty clean outside. Just soap and water. I recommend a fan intake screen
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http://carcraftstore.com/chromeairintakescreen.aspx

jakekrupa wrote:
trans bushing, deff need a poly. any links?
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You could take off that boot entirely and the car would not notice it. It was to keep caca out of the chassis of the VW Bus and does absolutely NOTHING now.

jakekrupa wrote:
you know what i really dont like the cutters honestly. can i just delete them and run the 2 lines coming from the reservoir to a proportioning valve into the 2 lines going to the back drums? or should i bite the bullet and keep the cutters for offroad use?
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Hard use of steering brakes gets harsh on the differential, but can be damned handy at times. I would leave it for now at least. Try it, you may like it.

jakekrupa wrote:
if anyone knows what chassis this is, can you link me a u-style crash bar that will fit these 4 holes?
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That 4-bolt pattern is original VW to mount the front beam (axle assembly) on the VW frame. Look at pics through the gallery and browse around to find bumpers you like. I would make a simple one out of 1-1/2" tube that mounts to the bottom outer beam mounts that are part of the frame and to extensions welded on the upper frame rails. Then a skidplate mounted to that could protect most of the beam.

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The bend at the bottom of the lower front tubes allows a flat skidplate to fit against the face of the tubes and still protect the bottom of the beam tube.

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Those lower tubes are welded to the lower beam clamps and the upper tubes have 2-bolt flanges (available from VW supplies or muffler shops) to remove the bumper and /or beam.

jakekrupa wrote:
Also, changing the trans fluid with Lucas 80-90 and the engine oil with Rotella T6 15-40. any lubrication additives you guys run?

Nah!

jakekrupa wrote:
got some aircraft remover, say goodbye to the pink (i really didnt want to break your guys' hearts, sorry)

Don't tell us...you wanted PEARL METALFLAKE pink...Right?

jakekrupa wrote:
i need a short windsheild, do i need a custom one or can i get one to fit my chassis?


Do you want glass? and for what reason?

It would be EZ to make a plexiglass or lexan one. But a windshield without front bodywork is rather pointless.

jakekrupa wrote:
got a leftover vaccum gauge from the ponycar, anywhere i can run a line from the engine?


I find that driving offroad, being much more 3D than pavement driving, leaves little time to fiddle with gauges. Maybe you want a video screen to watch movies and youtube on the dash too for while you're driving? Laughing And vacuum lines or oil pressure gauge lines run all the way to the dash area are awful long and exposed leaving hi probability of trouble with them. My buggy has no gauges at all. Just a par of BIG idiot lights for oil press and alternator.

Fix the brakes, fix any wiring issues, mount the battery right...and take it out in the woods and try it out. You just may like it pretty well just the way it is.
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.
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Axitech
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 5:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Specific answer to your "farm use" question. Lots of people have done it, lots of them got tickets for it. You might GET AWAY with it, but really, wouldn't it be better to not have to keep looking for cops? You are correct, in Pa, legally , you can put an orange triangle on it, call it a farm implement and legally drive from one farm to another. You can't sit next to a station wagon full of nose-miners and make faces and generally look like the 'weirdest guy in the room' and not expect a local cop to hassle you.

If you want to be on the road, get it all the way on the road. My inspection mechanic, when I rolled up to have the Special Construction Inspection done, asked me, "Why do you have an EZ-PASS on the windshield?" I told him it's so I can drive wherever I want to! His response was," Confident we are going to get this done, are you?". Yeah, I was!!

Now, here is the pep-talk: My High School buddy, Bobby, and I were out drinking when I was home on leave one year back in 81 or 82. We were sitting in a bar in Bethel Park. A guy walks in and Bobby says, "That's the bastard who took my wife". Bobby got up, and walked his way. Bobby's ex-wife was sitting there too. I thought this is going to go badly. I had one hand hovering over the .45 I was carrying. Bobby walked up and looked the guy right in the eye and leaned in close and said," You can't be first, but you can be next!"

So, as far as getting one street legal, I'll leave you with this thought: You can't have the first street-legal rail in Pa, but you can be next! But, you better hurry, because DWP is close to getting his on the road! Hurry up, I'm developing terminal laugh lines from having all this fun by myself!
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