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solex carb leaking gas...WHY!!!
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79bugman
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2014 2:39 pm    Post subject: solex carb leaking gas...WHY!!! Reply with quote

I will start by saying I am a complete "newbie" at carbs never having touched them.

I have searched many threads here and elsewhere and have found none that answer my question.

before I start, please understand that all I am trying to do in this thread is STOP the gas from leaking thru intake into my crankcase.

I have a 79 super and changed from FI to carb...that is a whole different story. 1600CC Dual Port bone stock engine.

this problem started when I had the bug running and all was good execpt when I would solw down to make a turn or just "get on the breaks hard" it seemed as if it was being robbed of fuel and would attempt to stall unless I got back on the gas.

sooo.. I decided that it may be the needle seat and valve.

part 1
I took the carb apart and cleaned with 2+2 and blew some air thru it. (not a very intense cleaning but I thought I would get lucky...I didnt Crying or Very sad

part 2
I put the carb back on and the problem got worse. I could not start it (vapor lock) I suprisingly got it started and it blew all sorts of black s%*t out the tail pipe, but it ran and idled high Smile

part3
3:00 am the next night my wife tells me the house smells like GAS and this time it wasnt mine Very Happy down to the garage and woooo..not good. the whole bottom of the engine is covered in gas.

part 4
I figured it Hydorlocked so I did not try and start it. I took out the plugs cleaned them, changed the wires and let the oil drip for 24 hours before replacing the filter and oil. whole lot of gas in the oil!!

part 5
I bought a carb rebuild kit off of e-bay for 30.00
http://www.ebay.com/itm/231207582011?item=23120758...mp;vxp=mtr

rebuilt carb with appropiate parts and put it back together

part 6
I have a "make shift" wood template that I am using to support the carb and hooked the fuel line to it. I made sure that it was level when I put the fule line into it.

I turned the ignition on, but did NOT try to start the car. I just wanted fuel to enter the float bowl to see what happens. well there gas leaking from the carb and I have no idea how/why it is leaking.

I took some pics of the carb and the pencil point is showing where the gas is leaking from.

Please note that it when it starts leaking, it does not seem like it is is coming from the power and idle jets. I have them pretty tight, but not too tight

It looks almost as if it is "seeping" thru the metal of the carb???

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please help
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79bugman
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2014 2:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

oh yeah..sorry
before I rebuilt the carb I soaked it in GUNK CARB Cleaner for 24 hours then washed the carb and all parts and blew compressed air about 90psi thru every/all orfices.

I let dry for another 24 hours.
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Brian
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2014 2:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Send it to volkzbitz for a discount on a new 34-3
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Towel Rail
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2014 3:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does your float still float?
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79bugman
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2014 4:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes, float still floats.

it was new with the carb rebuild kit

I was going to wait until I fixed the gas leak problem to make sure the level is proper in the bowl.

I think it is supposed to be 19mm
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cletus_zuber
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2014 6:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

makes ya wish ya kept the FI, huh.

(I know you had your reasons, not bashing)

I had a bad h31 out of the box, nothing could be done with it, take others advice, junk it and get a good rebuilt.
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79bugman
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2014 8:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ehh...really dont want to junk it.

everything was fine until a little while ago when I began driving it.

it would idle in the driveway while I was tinkering with it all the time. no gas leaks, no problems.

now that I am driving it...well...I drove it ONCE Crying or Very sad ...this S&%T happens.

any other ideas??
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Q-Dog
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 4:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You have classic symptoms of a stuck float valve.
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79bugman
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 5:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the idea.

It is the brand new one that came with the rebuild kit. I gapped it at 1MM with the washer... which I think is correct.

I checked to make sure that it was working properly by taking the "top part" of the carb off and blowing air into the fuel supply line with my mounth and I felt air exit thru the bottom.

I turned it over and blew ait thru the fuel supply area with my mounth and ....no air.

it seems to be working properly....I THINK.

any other ideas?
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79bugman
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 10:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ANYHTING...

ANY IDEAS...

besides trashing it? I really want to enjoy the car while it is summer.

Thanks
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Brian
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 10:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A stuck float
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Q-Dog
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 11:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You have to check the fuel level in the float bowl. Remove the top of the carb and see if the fuel is overflowing the bowl.

If the float retainer is in backwards the float can't press the needle valve and you get overflow. Sorry I can't help more. Impossible to diagnose what I can't see.
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 11:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I assume that you changed the fule pump from the FI one to a 3.5 psi one?

Did you ever put a fuel pressure gauge on it to see how much pressure you have?
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79bugman
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 12:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I took off the top of the carb to see where it was leaking from and did NOT notice that the gasket was wet. Would that mean that the fuel level is OK?

I also made sure that the float was able to go all the way up by making sure the "u shaped" plastic holder was bent toward the inside of the car.

I understood that if the "U" was facing the bumper, the float would not be able to rise all the way up to hit the needle valve....am I correct with that statement?

Is there another way to verify that the fuel level in the bowl is correct?

as for the fuel pump I have never checked the PSI. The reason is that again, I never had this problem.

Sorry, I am a newbie to Carbs...is there al link to show me what I need to buy to test the PSI?
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Q-Dog
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 1:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here you go. Procedures and fuel level.
http://www.vw-resource.com/float_needle.html
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 2:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need a fuel pressure tester. The H30/31 needs very little fuel pressure, and will flood if over about 3psi. Are you using a stock fuel pump?
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79bugman
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 6:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I do not have a fuel pressure guage and will have to buy one.

I have never tested the fuel pressure, because there was NEVER a problem before. The problem began when I began driving it.

I know that I never changed the fuel pump. It may have been changed when the guy put the carb on it, but I dont know.

What is the difference between a FI fuel pump and one that is used for a carb besides that pressure that it pushes?

Mine has a red sticker that says....

PURALATOR, PRO PERFORMANCE
PRO #12S
UNIVERSAL ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP.

Is this the wrong one Question
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79bugman
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

here is a pic of it.

http://www.amazon.com/Purolator-Univ-Fuel-Pump-4-6psi/dp/B0002KL408/ref=pd_sxp_f_i

I know, I know...change it....I will.

anybody have a good/solid replacement that puts out the correct pressure?

also, if this pump is putting out "way more" fuel than needed, why did it stall under hard braking or slowing down to turn? It would seem that it would have enough fuel??

Thanks everybody!!
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Q-Dog
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 6:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well that changes things. That pump puts out 5 or 6 psi. Your carb wants half that.

The stalling is because the engine is flooding. The float valve has trouble closing with that much pressure.
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Last edited by Q-Dog on Mon Jul 21, 2014 6:28 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 6:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The PRO 12S puts out 4-6 psi, and 3-5 psi is what you need. Might need to try a regulator to cut it down a pound or 2. Those are pretty cheap fuel pumps (I had one one time .. lasted 500 miles and left me stranded). Even though it specs 4-6 at 12 volts it could be pumping 7-8 at 13-14 volts when you are running.
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