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Low cost Suby swap $2275 (or so)
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shadetreetim
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Location: Riverside, California
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 1:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

crazyvwvanman wrote:
I'll take a light with no gauge over a gauge with no light, every time.

Mark

shadetreetim wrote:
......Gauges can give you a better understanding of the health of your motor than a light can. The light comes on just before the death rattle... Laughing


To be clear, I'm not advocating running a gauge with no light. I run both on my van. And there have been a couple of times when the light got my attention and alerted me to a catastrophic event, and allowed me to shut the engine down before damage occurred. I believe they both serve a purpose.
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Doing my best every time I drive it to dispel the myth these Vanagons have to be slow!


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ftp2leta
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 1:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I applaud you! Seriously! More should take your example, Subi or not.
Same goes for doing your own mechanic on stock engine.

Lately, I'm pushing a guy to do his own bodywork, I said it can't be worse then now.

A lot of people are afraid of the unknown! I don't get why.

Ben
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Sir Sam
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 1:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I forgot to mention the PCV valve. That's another item that is good to replace when the engine is out. It's under the intake but it should be possible to replace it with the engine out of the vehicle without pulling the intake. At least that's what I read online.
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wasserbox
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 3:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hammy1 wrote:

I hope it is encouraging. I'm tired of hearing that an engine conversion will cost $6000 if you do it yourself.


I think it's misleading, not encouraging. You've only done half the work.

Come back with a dollar amount after you pull it to replace the seals, belts, tensioners, the 500 hoses that will crumble to dust when you pull the intake, rebuilt/regeared your transmission, etc. etc. etc.

I mean - it's cool that you got it running - but it's a little premature to be considering it a $2200 reliable conversion success story.
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Hammy1
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 3:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wasserbox wrote:
Hammy1 wrote:

I hope it is encouraging. I'm tired of hearing that an engine conversion will cost $6000 if you do it yourself.


I think it's misleading, not encouraging. You've only done half the work.

Come back with a dollar amount after you pull it to replace the seals, belts, tensioners, the 500 hoses that will crumble to dust when you pull the intake, rebuilt/regeared your transmission, etc. etc. etc.

I mean - it's cool that you got it running - but it's a little premature to be considering it a $2200 reliable conversion success story.


I'll give you that, that there is more work to do but how many Subaru owners pull the engine at 100,000 miles change everything and put back in?
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kalispell365
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 4:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hammy1 wrote:
wasserbox wrote:
Hammy1 wrote:

I hope it is encouraging. I'm tired of hearing that an engine conversion will cost $6000 if you do it yourself.


I think it's misleading, not encouraging. You've only done half the work.

Come back with a dollar amount after you pull it to replace the seals, belts, tensioners, the 500 hoses that will crumble to dust when you pull the intake, rebuilt/regeared your transmission, etc. etc. etc.

I mean - it's cool that you got it running - but it's a little premature to be considering it a $2200 reliable conversion success story.


I'll give you that, that there is more work to do but how many Subaru owners pull the engine at 100,000 miles change everything and put back in?


Every one of my customers for the most part. 100k is around reseal/ head gasket time (tbelt etc. with the 2.5l...)
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wasserbox
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 5:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:


I'll give you that, that there is more work to do but how many Subaru owners pull the engine at 100,000 miles change everything and put back in?


A lot. Especially with an engine of that vintage. 105k is the timing belt interval. Most of the idlers will be shot. Its quicker to pull the engine, and while it's out you might as well do the head gaskets and water pump.

The engine and mounts are cheap. It's all the little bits that are $75-100 ea that will kill you.
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tschroeder0
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well, seems to me hes got about 4 grand minimum to play with before he gets to the " low" amount on most swaps...mine was about 7k.
nice work!
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vanonimous
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 11:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just for fun here is my expenses tallied up. It's a little more than what I originally thought it would be. I gave this conversion as a low cost challenge to myself, transmission and clutch are stock. I weld and wrench, have tools and hardware at home. I love wiring and tuning. This summary is essential for peaceful and diplomatic marital relations. Cool
I still have few parts to sell which will bring final number further down but I also still have to connect cruise control and AC.
This doesn’t reflect other previous upgrades like brakes, suspension, lighting etc
Funny things happen after taking a Subaru apart I want one.
I haven’t tracked time but it went way faster then I anticipated.


Expense:

Hobert Kennedy:

Airduct $50
Crossmember $140
Heatshield (not used) $18
Header $300
Power Steering hose $99
Shipping $112
Adapter kit $540
Subtotal: $1259.00


Small Car Performance:

Throttle cable $55
5qt oil pan $349
Hose kit $189
Interface $65
Harness mod kit $135
Coolant reservoir bracket $35
Speedo sensor kit $55
White gauge set $50
Subotal: $933.00


Ebay:

Belt, tensioner, idlers, seals, MSL gaskets, pump kit $150
OBD2 3” stainless cat $60
Stainless muffler 3” $60
6” diesel stack clamp $15
Various clamps and gaskets $20
Air filter $15
Air duct and 3” adapter $35
3” 90 degree Stainless exhaust tip $30
New generic O2 sensors 2x $45
New SOHC timing cover and bolts $100
Oil, filter, coolant $50
Subtotal: $580.00


Machining:

Heads Barter
0

Craigslist:

Subaru Forester 1999 crashed 120k $600
$600

Income for cost offset, sold good used parts:

1999 Subaru Forester leftover $400
Original waterboxer $350
Idle control unit $50
Digifant harness $75
MAF $50
TB $35
Digifant ECU $110
Total income: $1070.00



Total expense: $3372.00
Total income: $1070.00
Total cost: $2302.00
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Lighting upgrades: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=578291
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Jake de Villiers
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 8:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting. Did you not replace the water pump while you were there?
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wasserbox
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 8:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jake de Villiers wrote:
Interesting. Did you not replace the water pump while you were there?

Quote:
Belt, tensioner, idlers, seals, MSL gaskets, pump kit $150


Looks like it.

Impressive - looks like it was a pretty thorough job too.
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ftp2leta
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 6:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This thread make me laugh big time, you guys are full of it...

A single invoice at SC is over 2300, no engine, no work.

Ben
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------------------------------------------------------
FI part for sale: http://www.benplace.com/parts_sale1.htm
My site: http://www.benplace.com/vw2.htm
Subi conversion: http://www.benplace.com/vanaru_eng.htm
Youtube http://www.youtube.com/user/ftp2leta
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syncrodoka
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 7:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A lot of what SC sells isn't required to do a conversion. There are several parts that they offer that I wouldn't buy at all. Read the itemized parts others have bought to see why they didn't spend that much.
I made money buying donors and selling off bits from them then selling off the scrap. Lots of different ways to cut cost that a installer doesn't have time for. It really isn't that difficult.
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2014 4:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sure with older and getting to be out of date engines, costs can be cut, but not with 2006 and later....as both Benny and I have built.
2002-2004, maybe.
A Subaru engine on its second or third rebuild does not even come close to running as smoothly as a freshly pulled engine with less than 40k miles on it and a decade newer.

Same goes for a Bostig with a new crate motor vs a junkyard engine from a rental car with 100k of daily loving Wink
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2014 4:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cherry picking parts from multiple vendors is definitely the way to go.
Why one of them or the big two haven't teamed up to make the "ultimate" conversion, with warrantied parts and that actual work with other vendors products is a head scratcher.
Instead, "kits" are available that are incomplete, will not work with other providers parts and leave you with parts left over.
Again, a lot of head scratching.
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ftp2leta
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2014 5:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Of course anyone with mechanical, engineering AND BUILDING skill can make anything happen for less $$$. But using a 200,000 miles 94 2.2 is not a reliable conversion. A late very low mile engine ca cost me over 3k$ without harness.
No conversion part and no labor.

I would drive any of my 95th done (yep since yesterday...) conversion done down to Mexico and back and would not worry a second about any engine trouble.

If I was a DIY I would invest a bit more a do a reliable one with a newer engine.

Ben
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FI part for sale: http://www.benplace.com/parts_sale1.htm
My site: http://www.benplace.com/vw2.htm
Subi conversion: http://www.benplace.com/vanaru_eng.htm
Youtube http://www.youtube.com/user/ftp2leta
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2014 5:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I personally would enjoy a Vanistan rebuild over a high mileage 2.2 Subaru conversion any day of the week Exclamation

Cali residents are the ones who really are keeping the 2.2 Subaru conversions alive.
What a choice...2.2 Sub or a 1.8T...what a price difference Rolling Eyes
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tschroeder0
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2014 7:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cmon guys,
now you're making it sound like an older suby is a unreliable junker?? When just a couple of years ago, they were the most bomber engine you could imagine?..
I re ringed/put head gaskets in my 99' suby 2.2 ( with bens help, thank,you Ben!) for about 400$ and some time and patients, it runs perfectly smooth and I have logged at least 10k since my swap.
An older suby is a fantastic engine for people to get their hand dirty on.
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ftp2leta
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2014 9:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tschroeder0 wrote:
cmon guys,
now you're making it sound like an older suby is a unreliable junker?? When just a couple of years ago, they were the most bomber engine you could imagine?..
I re ringed/put head gaskets in my 99' suby 2.2 ( with bens help, thank,you Ben!) for about 400$ and some time and patients, it runs perfectly smooth and I have logged at least 10k since my swap.
An older suby is a fantastic engine for people to get their hand dirty on.


I got NOTHING against the 2.2, it was one of the best engine of that era.
It's still a good choice but with some work on it.

I have seen one run with the rear main crank bearing wormed out!!!

Ben
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------------------------------------------------------
FI part for sale: http://www.benplace.com/parts_sale1.htm
My site: http://www.benplace.com/vw2.htm
Subi conversion: http://www.benplace.com/vanaru_eng.htm
Youtube http://www.youtube.com/user/ftp2leta
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syncrodoka
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2014 9:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Late model donors with low mileage can be bought, parted out and sold for scrap also. Rolling Eyes
SC isn't the only or best shop in the game and there is no need to buy all parts from them to get a reliable conversion.
It really isn't that difficult.
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