Hello. ToughBug family project

cletus_zuber · Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 11:46 am Post subject:

Move that pump to up under the tank, mount it on robber bushings if some sort to dampen The noise

Behind (actually in front) of the fan not good Sad

. What happens when a hose leaks or etc? Fuel in the fan blown over hot cylinder heads

Search fuel pump relay for ways to wire the pump to shut off if the car stops and the driver is incapacitated.
_________________
1972 1302
HPMX 40's & 019

ToughBug · Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 12:13 pm Post subject:

Oh it's getting power. Makes noise and vibrates. Either it is bad, there's no gas getting to it at all and it's running dry, or there is a clog. Without a fuel pressure gauge I suppose the only way to know is disconnect at the carb and see if there's fuel flowing out. Have not decided if that's a good idea or not. Think

Still. If it's this loud we'll have to wear earplugs in the car!!

Found this thread from 2011, which was very helpful....

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=471764

PS - taking all advice about fuel/fires seriously!

74 Superbeetle · Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 8:35 pm Post subject:

If it's that loud then it probably is needing replaced.
I take the line off the carb all the time to see if I'm getting fuel, I'm not saying it's a good idea but I'm still alive! Wink

ToughBug · Posted: Fri Jul 25, 2014 4:27 am Post subject: fuel line - type and supplier?

Hey 74SB. Yeah, I gave it a shot too. Not like my engine is warm at this point!

Happy to figured out our 1st problem. Smile

Going to replace fuel pump and relocate it from back firewall to under the gas tank. Have to figure out how to run the wires up there. Have not found a previous thread on how to do this...I'll just need to figure it out myself. Even my Haynes guide doesn't help - absolutely no mention of fuel lines I can find!

Question is to use:

regular VW rubber gasline?
metal braded line?
original type cloth covered lines?
hose clamps or AN fittings?

and where to order such items?

ToughBug · Posted: Sat Jul 26, 2014 6:03 pm Post subject: Week 1 restoration

Oil change and things.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Enjoying the car this week, and getting to know it. Smile

After inspecting it for a few days I decided not to bother making short-term repairs to drive around this summer. The chassis has enough rust - some hidden by bondo and paint from a previous "restoration" - that it is going to require a body off restoration. Shocked

Well, I guess I do not have the one rust free chassis on the east coast after all! Just don't feel safe putting family in it without really knowing that it's right.

Feel confident I can get the body off. Well, assuming I can get the rusty lug nuts of the wheels! But I don't feel so confident about tearing the chassis down and building it back up. I may be looking for a shop to help with that. But no point making the topside look nice if the underside is falling apart.

Is there a term for this point in the adventure? the oh crap moment? then the digging in for the long haul?

ToughBug · Posted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 1:52 pm Post subject: Half way to body off!

Progress today. Rust wasn't as bad as I thought. Time to invest in PB Blaster though - that stuff is great.

ToughBug · Posted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 4:57 pm Post subject: the challenges ahead

Nice days tearing down my 73 super, which we've named "Rusty". My dad and all three boys pitched in. It was the perfect day to work outside! So, fenders, running boards, hood, cover off. Seats out, carpets out, headliner gone, all electical labeled, most removed. Next doors. Need an impact driver to get screws out. Tank. Need to siphon another 4 gallons or so. Then dash. No big surprises. A few areas of rust that will need patching: rear passenger side floor pan, front drivers well wall, rear body over passenger fender, and maybe some strengthening for one strut tower. Really, not as bad as I thought. Heater channels are OK! Pans good enough to consider patching only, then decide to do it all while I'm here. Best part of the day was my dad brought a 4 foot long torque wrench to get lugs loose. Not fair!

talljordan · Posted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 5:38 pm Post subject:

You shouldn't loosen bolts with a torque wrench, it can mess them up. My high school shop teacher yelled at me for this one Embarassed

.

Buy a half inch drive breaker bar and if you need extra torque use a cheater bar. They run around $15 when on sale
_________________
1972 Super Beetle, ~~Parked until adequate restoration funding is acquired~~ in restoration!

Wanted: Male computer diagnostic plug end

Joel · Posted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 9:30 pm Post subject:

Little bit of front left accident damage around the strut tower there, hopefully nothing too serious.
_________________
Quick little bug, you got a Porsche motor in that?
1974 Germanlook 1303 2.5 Suba-Beetle

ToughBug · Posted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 6:04 am Post subject:

Thanks Joel. Hadn't noticed that yet. Shocked

just about tore my shoulder off even with extender arm on those lugs. added aleve to my toolbox this morning. so we just loosened them a bit with the giant torq. don't tell anyone Wink

ToughBug · Posted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 9:53 am Post subject: strut tower replacement

Well, looks like there was a collision to the drivers front. Welded repairs inside truck lip, rusting more than the other side, with some rust on strut tower itself and a hole through the fender behind the tower. Disappointing. Not sure if a strut tower weld in replacement will work or the whole front drivers side of the car needs to be replaced. Maybe best to find a donor car...or make THIS one the donor car. Hmmmm....

Tim Donahoe · Posted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 12:29 pm Post subject:

Put in a WTB (want to buy) ad for that entire section, in The Samba Classifieds.

Tim

CWAVE · Samba Member Joined: September 18, 2008 Posts: 510

Reminiscent of what I'm looking at...

This is what I have to fix it...

Maybe something like that replacement piece could solve your problem.
_________________
___
My 1973 Sports Bug Body off Restoration:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=666556

ToughBug

Thanks CWAVE. Was looking at the full panel and the smaller strut tower section, deciding which I'd need. Looks like our bugs are twins.

Thanks Tim. I'm looking into that now.

My Muir book has not yet arrived but I've pressed ahead with prepping the body for removal. As soon as I can get some more gas out of the tank I'll be close. Steering unhooked, then bolts off. And we'll see what I've forgotten. All wires off. Leaving hand brake and shifter and dash for now. Oh, oh. Brake line has to be unhooked somewhere I assume. Taking lots of pictures.

Oh! Question! do I need a spring compressing tool when I go to unhook them from the body? d'oh!

[/u]

vamram · Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 2:08 pm Post subject:

Not to unhook them from the body but yes if you're going to replace the insert or the springs.
_________________
Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!

'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!!

ToughBug · Posted: Sat Aug 02, 2014 3:43 pm Post subject: Rust oh rust oh rust

OK. Thanks everyone for the advice!

Just about ready to remove the body. Interior gone. Gas tank out. Engine disconnected. Body bolts soaking in penetrating oil. Found some spare change - newest dated 1994. So someone was sitting in it 20 years ago at least.

Had some time so I went to work on the potential rusty problem spots, which I now know are:

front drivers quarter panel, in spots. strut tower rusty but not totally through yet. Along bottom where drivers feet would be rusted apart - can see from wheel well to cabin. spots of rubbery repair stuff in there.

rear passenger panel around wheel well from top towards the front to nearly the bottom. sheet metal pop riveted here from prior restore.

battery box passenger rear panel had been replaced, riveted in. it's gone in a pile of rust, of course.

In short I'm looking at front drivers panel replacement and rear passenger side quarter panel fix or replacement. And floor panels, which I assumed.

Looking on the bright side. I'm going to get plenty of practice welding.

I found this discussion very helpful given my situation:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=586891

ToughBug · Posted: Sat Aug 02, 2014 3:51 pm Post subject: Holey cow!

cjsuner · Posted: Sat Aug 02, 2014 5:08 pm Post subject:

Lookin good,
BTW, this might be your friend for that rust spot in the fender area: http://www.jcwhitney.com/klokkerholm-karosseride-r...00535.jcwx

ToughBug · Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 12:23 pm Post subject: bang head on dash

Thanks for all the body panel advice! That'll come in handy.

Making progress - but gonna vent a little.

Removing the dash - with a bunch of previous owner radio/horn/lighter stuff installed was nuts. And the last bit - detaching the hood release cable - was &*@!#$%. Who installs the only (really) tiny cable release nut upside down on the front truck lip so it's impossible to see if it is a flat head, phillips, etc. ????? That's gotta change.

Otherwise, a good day. Windows removed. Dash off. The pile of car stuff in the basement is getting big.

ToughBug

The body comes off this week. Then the engine. I know, kinda backwards but it's best in my situation.

After that here's the plan - is this close to right?

1) clean chassis, inspect, derust as I can.
2) cut out pans (using grinder)
3) cut out two body panel sections (grinder again)
4) prep for weld
5) weld all in place (pans, panels, etc.), clean up welds.
6) media blast chassis and all body parts
7) prep, prime, paint, coat

wondering if a grinder will be enough, or do I have to rent a plasma cutter?
hoping to buy welder, get some training from a friend.
same with media blasting - rent, buy, or have done at shop?
and paint - thought I'd do it myself to save money and learn - realistic?

no real schedule, but it would be nice to drive it next summer sometime.


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