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Question about wheel to fender lip clearance
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TMI Products
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2014 9:15 pm    Post subject: Question about wheel to fender lip clearance Reply with quote

I was finally able to get my car running, but the previous owner rewired a lot of stuff and now I have to trace the dash wiring since I have no blinkers no tach. But it runs and I moved it 5 feet Laughing

But I noticed my drivers side wheel it touching the fender lip and passenger has about 3/4" of clearance. The drivers side also sits about 3/4"-1" lower. I pulled the drums off to have them drilled and put them on with only about 60 ft lbs. Do you think they aren't seated and that's causing the left wheel to stick out more???

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eyetzr Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 5:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Mario, glad to see/hear the car moving. Check the rear subframe bushings. If they are worn or have been messed with you may be able to shift it over. I read some where on here about lowering your car may also affect the spacing left to right.
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 6:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Russ Wolfe said it was quite common for the driver side to sit lower than the passenger side after 45 years. I had to raise the driver side 1 inner spline to get my '67 rear to sit level/even.
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 7:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

im wondering if I raise the left side if will help my clearance issue or just roll the lip. The pass. side tucks nice and you can see the space at the rear of the wheel. I cant slip a piece of cardboard on the drivers side around the tire.
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Fiatdude
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 7:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A friend of mine once said -- " If you can slide a piece of paper in there it ain't rubbing" -- -- My tires are huge on my Ghia and they rub occasionally, like when it was on the dyno and it did some self clearancing during the squat at the big end -- You have to just look at it and see if you can live with it -- a little fender rolling is good -- maybe lifting the torsion -- Let your eyes be your guide --

and as far as what it looks like -- -- nobody can see both sides of a car at the same time LOL
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 8:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

1 inner spline raised mine 3/4-1" as I recall.
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 8:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fiatdude wrote:
A friend of mine once said -- " If you can slide a piece of paper in there it ain't rubbing" -- -- My tires are huge on my Ghia and they rub occasionally, like when it was on the dyno and it did some self clearancing during the squat at the big end -- You have to just look at it and see if you can live with it -- a little fender rolling is good -- maybe lifting the torsion -- Let your eyes be your guide --

and as far as what it looks like -- -- nobody can see both sides of a car at the same time LOL
Ha, like the way you think Laughing

I'm used to rubbing, but I wanted a car that doesn't rub (this time) Confused I will try and figure out why one side sits out further after I torque the axle nut down more and then roll the lip.

If that doesn't work good enough, then I will raise it 1 notch. The weight of a couple of kids in the back for cruising should bring it back down a little.
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 8:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mike Fisher wrote:
1 inner spline raised mine 3/4-1" as I recall.
that should put me very close to level on the rear (I hope).

The front came pretty easy after I figured out 1 side. Is the back hard to do or how long should it take?
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 9:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used a tow chain double wrapped around a floor jack & the upper bumpstop to lower/raise. It a took a week or more & I should have bought some kind of threaded spring compression tool.
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 9:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mike Fisher wrote:
I used a tow chain double wrapped around a floor jack & the upper bumpstop to lower/raise. It a took a week or more & I should have bought some kind of threaded spring compression tool.
well that doesn't sound fun.

air shocks look real good right about now Shocked
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 9:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Air shocks wont work on the back. Too much weight

A lot of things can cause this. Old accident repair that wasnt perfect, misaligned body panels, body bushings going bad, etc etc etc.

I'll be honest, only my super original 65 squareback sat level left and right. all my other type 3's have been just a little off. It takes time, but you can do combinations of inner and outer splines to get the rear just right. For instance up 2 inner, down 1 outer, etc. Something else that people have brought up before, having the front off a little bit can make the back look off.
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 9:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

can't beleive no one has mentioned you don't have the drums torqued nearly enough. 60ftlb is about 1/4 of the way there... unless you like spun drums....

and if it's swingaxle you need to roll it back and forth a few times to get it to settle. and yes i have seen one settle more to one side afterwards. going from memory mine settles a tad more on the right after a few forward rearward rolls......
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 9:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

luckystiff wrote:
can't beleive no one has mentioned you don't have the drums torqued nearly enough. 60ftlb is about 1/4 of the way there... unless you like spun drums....

and if it's swingaxle you need to roll it back and forth a few times to get it to settle. and yes i have seen one settle more to one side afterwards. going from memory mine settles a tad more on the right after a few forward rearward rolls......
the drums were never torqued because I got the wheels put on, took it to work where it styed for a month for the interior and then rolled on/off the trailer a few times to a show. It has not been driven nor did I plan on driving it till I torqued the axle nut and went over all the work the previous owner did.
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 11:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What I found when I was putting the body back onto the chassis is that there is some room for adjustment. I was able to move the body about 1/4" to make the spacing even. It might be that a previous owner could've taken the body off for some reason and put it back on a little misaligned.

Also, as someone suggested, the subframe could be a little skewed. Maybe the fenders had some previous accident damage that wasn't fixed properly. Whatever the case may be, I'd just roll the fenders a little and go on your merry way.
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 11:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

supersuk wrote:
What I found when I was putting the body back onto the chassis is that there is some room for adjustment. I was able to move the body about 1/4" to make the spacing even. It might be that a previous owner could've taken the body off for some reason and put it back on a little misaligned.

Also, as someone suggested, the subframe could be a little skewed. Maybe the fenders had some previous accident damage that wasn't fixed properly. Whatever the case may be, I'd just roll the fenders a little and go on your merry way.
then im getting my bag of lead shot and a body hammer and going to town(after I toque that nut nut)

I plan to (or hope to drive it this week around the black at least) then get it registered and insured. Very Happy
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 1:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the drivers side fender had been repaired. The PO bought a replacement fender for it but the body shop just pulled out the dent. so it might be that. One inner spline should be good for the leveling but none of my cars were ever level and unless you put a ruler up to the fender, you couldn't tell
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 1:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

evlwevl wrote:
the drivers side fender had been repaired. The PO bought a replacement fender for it but the body shop just pulled out the dent. so it might be that. One inner spline should be good for the leveling but none of my cars were ever level and unless you put a ruler up to the fender, you couldn't tell
you tell me this now? Rolling Eyes

the whole left side sat lower since day 1, but this clearance issue is the hold up for the first drive. Wink
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 1:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nah, you just don't remember.
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

TMI Products wrote:
luckystiff wrote:
can't beleive no one has mentioned you don't have the drums torqued nearly enough. 60ftlb is about 1/4 of the way there... unless you like spun drums....

and if it's swingaxle you need to roll it back and forth a few times to get it to settle. and yes i have seen one settle more to one side afterwards. going from memory mine settles a tad more on the right after a few forward rearward rolls......
the drums were never torqued because I got the wheels put on, took it to work where it styed for a month for the interior and then rolled on/off the trailer a few times to a show. It has not been driven nor did I plan on driving it till I torqued the axle nut and went over all the work the previous owner did.


just making sure you know castle nuts on the rear get torqued to 220-230 ftlb. MANY have come here wonder why they keep spinning drums and are only torqing to 50-100ftlb....ken....
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 4:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

luckystiff wrote:
TMI Products wrote:
luckystiff wrote:
can't beleive no one has mentioned you don't have the drums torqued nearly enough. 60ftlb is about 1/4 of the way there... unless you like spun drums....

and if it's swingaxle you need to roll it back and forth a few times to get it to settle. and yes i have seen one settle more to one side afterwards. going from memory mine settles a tad more on the right after a few forward rearward rolls......
the drums were never torqued because I got the wheels put on, took it to work where it styed for a month for the interior and then rolled on/off the trailer a few times to a show. It has not been driven nor did I plan on driving it till I torqued the axle nut and went over all the work the previous owner did.


just making sure you know castle nuts on the rear get torqued to 220-230 ftlb. MANY have come here wonder why they keep spinning drums and are only torqing to 50-100ftlb....ken....
Thanks I read that a few times. Looks like im gonna eat a heavy dinner and get out my breaker bar and extension. Hopefully thats the issue
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1965 Turbo Mustang Fastback
1966 Type 3 Fastback
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