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Cooling 1641 Engine
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volwing
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 10:26 am    Post subject: Cooling 1641 Engine Reply with quote

Other than the stock cooling tins is there another set of tins that offer better air flow for the cylinders or perhaps additional oil cooling?
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marklee
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 10:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

AFAIK stock is best...
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scrivyscriv Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 10:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you have high oil temps?
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Brian
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 10:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

"dog house" cooler with all the tins. All of them.
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volwing
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 10:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now running stock but may change to 1641. I read that the thin walls lead to heat problems. Just trying to help the cooling while the conversion is being done.
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Brian
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're going bigger go bigger. 1776 with doghouse set up and you'll be happy.
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volwing
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 11:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking at a 1776 Brian but too expensive. I can convert to 1641 for less than $400 vs $2300 for 1776.
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 11:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No real reason to do the 87mm cylinders now with the 88mm Thick Wall Piston and Cylinder set. They give your engine the thick cylinder wall, thicker than the stock engine plus the engine displacement is increased to 1679cc when used with a stock 69mm crankshaft and 1800cc when used with a 74mm crank. When having your heads done or ordering cylinder heads order the 88mm ThickWall, 90.5, 92mm head opening heads.
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volwing
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 11:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a set of heads that accept 90.5 so I guess no machining needed. Thanks for the idea.
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gt1953
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 2:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

With all of the proper tin and stock doghouse cooler you should be just fine.
Do you or are you planning on temperature gauges?
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volwing
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 3:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In re to temp gauge I have the dipstick version.
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VWCOOL
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 3:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Make sure you have the correct fan for the later Super-beetle (dog-house) cooling system...many, many people do not check this

That is ALL YOU NEED for a street-driven car up to around 75 ponies at the pavement

What car/body is it in? There are some other checks, tricks and tweaks...
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volwing
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 6:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its a 73 Super Beetle. Has all the tins and fan is good.
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volwing
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Danwvw wrote:
No real reason to do the 87mm cylinders now with the 88mm Thick Wall Piston and Cylinder set. They give your engine the thick cylinder wall, thicker than the stock engine plus the engine displacement is increased to 1679cc when used with a stock 69mm crankshaft and 1800cc when used with a 74mm crank. When having your heads done or ordering cylinder heads order the 88mm ThickWall, 90.5, 92mm head opening heads.


Is there a problem with the 88mm slip ins due the thin cyl. at the case end?
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Joel
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 7:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

volwing wrote:
Looking at a 1776 Brian but too expensive. I can convert to 1641 for less than $400 vs $2300 for 1776.


where did you get those prices?

1641 sounds like no machine slip-ins (those are bad news) and the 1776 sounnds like you got the I dont want this job quote.
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 8:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not the thick wall's but they are about as thick as a beer can at the base and brittle as hell. Just have to be careful with them during assembly.
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Brian
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 9:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the difference between a 1641 and 1776 is the jugs, that shop must not have liked you or they just have used ones on the shelf as apposed to having to order new ones.
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76VwBug1600
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 10:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

volwing wrote:
Looking at a 1776 Brian but too expensive. I can convert to 1641 for less than $400 vs $2300 for 1776.


why add 2 horse power? Better off keeping the 1600 and adding Dual carbs and a merged header
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volwing
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 4:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

2 HP??? Headers and duel carbs are very expensive and may be difficult to keep adjusted plus my car is a daily driver so the heat in winter is a must. Think I will stay with increasing the motor displacement.
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johnnypan
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 6:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

you can run a header and dual carbs and still keep your heat..
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