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Oil cooler, replace?
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talljordan
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 2:50 pm    Post subject: Oil cooler, replace? Reply with quote

Hey All,

I rebuilt my engine 3000m ago but at the time I did not know that the oil cooler should be replaced during a rebuild. It is currently missing the foam and has a few dents and dings on the fins.

Should I replace my oil cooler with a new one from CIP? Or just add on the foam. What kind of foam would I use?

If I should buy new, which one should I get.
http://www.cip1.ca/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-021-117-021-B
or http://www.cip1.ca/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-113-117-021-NEW

Thanks!
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 2:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did the last engine likely leave shrapnel in the cooler?

I used foam from Home Depot.
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VWCOOL
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 2:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Who told you that?

re-using an oil cooler is fine... as long as it came from a running/known-good motor and is not full of metal shavings
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talljordan
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 3:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Last engine was rebuilt due to low compression and general wear and tear. No idea if there are metal shavings but it did look like it had been hit by something so the metal fins were bent.

When I did the first oil change after 300 miles there was a bit of metal powder stuck to the drain nut (magnetic).

Home depot foam wont melt under the heat?
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Cusser
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 4:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Never trouble trouble until trouble troubles you.


Leave it be.
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crvc
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 10:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

VWCOOL wrote:
Who told you that?

re-using an oil cooler is fine... as long as it came from a running/known-good motor and is not full of metal shavings


You may have read that in one of my posts. I read it from Hoover's website. He said when rebuilding an engine the cooler should be replaced. He said they can't be cleaned thoroughly enough for re-use. I spent two years dealing with vapor lock. Didn't solve the problem til I put in a new cooler and hoover bit. I paid $50 for a new cooler and hoover bit.

crvc
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Multi69s
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 4:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is absolutely no reason to change an oil cooler, unless, you are dealing with one that came from a blown motor. As far as the metal on your drain plug, most of that is from the engine breaking in and / or not cleaning all of the parts completely. I would much rather have a used German cooler, than a new Chinese one.
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talljordan
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 5:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the advice guys!

How much should I worry about not having the foam? I do have the hoover bit now.
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torsionbar
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 6:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Multi69s wrote:
There is absolutely no reason to change an oil cooler, unless, you are dealing with one that came from a blown motor.


many would disagree with this sentiment. a brand new german oil cooler is cheap, 75 bucks or so last time i checked, plus the special stepped rubber gaskets. and if you already have the engine out and torn down to a long block, it's an easy couple of bolts to r&r the oil cooler. once it's all reassembled and back in the car, it's many hours of labor to get to it.

these cars are all old enough and have had so many different owners, you have no idea what kind of prior engine troubles have occurred. that old cooler could be full of metal shavings, baked in sludge, and who knows what else. not to mention that the fins could be packed full of dust and dirt, hindering the airflow through the cooler. plus those rubber o-ring gaskets can and do leak when they get old. replacing is cheap insurance if you're already in there.

if on the other hand, the engine is fully assembled and already back in the car, and you're experiencing neither leakage nor overheating, i would leave it alone.
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Multi69s
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 7:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you can get a genuine OEM German cooler for that price, then it is cheap insurance. However, your statement about sludge build up in an oil cooler is not quite accurate. Sludge tends to form where the oil is moving slow and the heat is lower as well (breather stand, sump, valve covers). These conditions do not happen in the cooler where the oil is under pressure and at a high temp.

So unless you suspect that the engine has seen a catastrophic failure or was even out of a sand buggy, the majority of stock coolers are still in pretty good shape.

Just a side note - I have seen too many Chinese coolers blown by people that install larger oil pumps or have just changed their relief springs
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lemke
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 6:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

torsionbar wrote:
Multi69s wrote:
There is absolutely no reason to change an oil cooler, unless, you are dealing with one that came from a blown motor.


many would disagree with this sentiment. a brand new german oil cooler is cheap, 75 bucks or so last time i checked, plus the special stepped rubber gaskets.


Could you please let me know where you found a brand new German oil cooler for 75 bucks? I would buy 2!

Seriously, if you know where - let me know.
The ONLY new German oil cooler I could find is $283!! Here is the link:
http://www.airheadparts.com/vintage-vw-parts/vanag...17021-b-oe
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Tim Donahoe
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 7:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jornda, use the foam from Home Depot (or similar). It will not melt. But it's silly to have a Hoover Bit for the bottom of the cooler and no foam dam at the top.

I use just regular sponge weatherstrip--at least one-half inch thick, and it never melts.

Tim
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